The University Library Leeds LEEDS UNIVERSITY LIBRARY Classmark: COOK^/ A UA/ 3 0106 01105 631 ’-'AtKIi /■ / ■4I COOKERY MRS. LINCOLN’S Boston Cook Book. WHAT TO DO AND WHAT NOT TO DO IN COOKING. BY MRS. D. A. U^NCOLN, OF THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL. BOSTON: ROBERTS BROTHERS. 1887. Copyright, 1883. By Mrs. D. A. Lincoln. IHnibcraitn ?Preea : John Wilson and Son, Cambridge. Book IS ©clu'catetJ TO MRS. SAMUEL T. HOOPER, President of the Boston Cooking School, IN RECOGNITION OF HER ZEAL IN EVERY GOOD WORK FOR THE BENEFIT OF WOMAN ; AND TO THE PUPILS, PAST AND PRESENT, OF THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL, WHOSE ENTHUSIASM IN THEIR WORK HAS MADE THE LABOR OF TEACHING A DELIGHT. “ Not to know at large of things remote From use, obscure and subtle, but to know That which before us lies in daily life. Is the prime wisdom.” Milton. “ To know what you do know, and not to know what you do not know, is true knowledge.” — Confucius. PREFACE. To compile a book which shall be not only a collection of receipts, given briefly for the experienced housekeeper, and with sufficient clearness for the beginner, but which shall also embody enough of physiology, and of the chem- istry^ and philosophy of food, to make every principle in- telligible to a child and interesting to the mature mind ; which shall serve equally well for the cook in the kitchen, the pupil in the school-room, and the teacher in the normal class, — is a difficult task. Yet the need of a book of moderate cost, containing in a reasonably small compass alh this and much more, has been seriously felt by^ all who are engaged in teaching cookery. Moreover, there is a special reason for the publication of this work. It is undertaken at the urgent request of the pupils of the Boston Cooking School, who have desired that the receipts and lessons given during the last four y’ears in that institution should be arranged in a permanent form. To one who from childhood has been trained in all de- tails of housework, learning by observation or by actual experience much that it is impossible to receive from books, the amount of ignorance shown by many women is surprising. That a person of ordinary intelligence pre- siding over her household can be satisfied with only a vague conception of the common domestic methods, or that any true woman can see anything degrading in any labor necessary for the highest physical condition of her VI Preface. would be incredible if the truth of it were not dail}' manifest. Happily, popular opinion now decides that no young lady’s education is complete without a course of training in one or more branches of domestic work. And those who are not so fortunate as to have the best of all train- ing— that of actual work under a wise and competent mother — gladly resort to the cooking-schools for in- struction. In compiling these receipts for use in a school and in the family, several things were demanded. In a school of pupils from every class and station in life, a great variety of receipts is desirable. They must be clear, but concise, for those who are already well grounded in first principles. They must be explained, illustrated, and reiterated for the inexperienced and the careless. They must have a word of caution for those who seem alwavs to have the knack of doing the wrong thing. They must ‘include the most healthful foods for those who have been made ill by improper food ; the cheapest as well as the most nutritious, for the laboring class ; the richest and most elaboratel}’’ prepared, for those who can afford them physically as well as pecuniaril}’. These receipts are not a mere compilation. A large portion have accumulated during a long period of house- keeping ; and many have been received from friends who are practical housekeepers. Others have been taken from standard authorities on cooking ; and all have been fre- quently and thoroughl}’ tested by pupils under the e}'e of the author. As far as possible, acknowledgment has been made for the receipts received. Where changes and im- provements have been made, or where there were man}’ authorities for the same formula, no credit has been given. Some cook-books presuppose the presence of an as- sistant ; but as three fourths of the women in this country Preface. Vll do their own work, these receipts are arranged so as to require the attention of but one person. It is proverbial that 3’oung housekeepers are often greatly perplexed in attempting to provide little enough for only two. For their benefit maii}^ of our receipts are prepared on a scale of smaller measurements. The materials to be used are given in the order in which they are to be put together. They are arranged in col- umns, where the e}'^e maj^ catch them readil}^ or in italics where ecouom}’ of space seemed desirable. Every caution or suggestion has been given at the re- quest of some pupil who failed to find in other books just what she needed ; or because, in the experience of teach- ing, it has been shown that, unless forewarned, pupils inevitably make certain mistakes. Many subjects which in other books are omitted or given briefl}’^, will be found to have received here an extensive treatment, because the}' have seemed of paramount importance. All the chemical and physiological knowledge that i^ necessary for a clear understanding of the laws of health, so far as they are involved in the science of cookery, is given in this book. Nine tenths of the women who go through a scientific course in seminaries never put any of the knowledge gained into practical use. By the time they have occasion to use such knowledge in their own homes, the Chemistry and Physiology have been relegated to the attic, where they help mice to material for their nests, but help no woman to apply the principles of science upon which the health and welfare of her house- hold largely depend. The statement will appear incredible to most people, and yet it is true, that many w'omen do not know what the simplest things in our daily food are ; cannot tell when water boils, or the difference betw'een lamb and veal, lard and drippings. They cannot give the names of kitchen Preface. Vlll utensils ; do not know anj^thing about a stove, or how to pare a potato. This will explain what might otherwise seem an unnecessary minuteness of detail. The expe- rience of such ignorance also suggested the sub-title of the “ Boston Cook Book,” — “ What to do and what not to do in Cooking,” — just how to hold 3’our bowl and spoon, to use your hands, to regulate your stove, to wash your dishes ; and just how not to fall into the errors into which so many have stumbled before you. But, more than all, it is attempted to give a reason for ever}" step taken, and a clear answer to any questions that are likely to arise in the experience of either housekeeper or cook. A PREFACE NOT FOR THE PUBLIC. ♦ A WORD of grateful acknowledgment is due the many friends who have aided in this work. First, to my mother I ow^e much for her excellent judg- ment in training me as a child to a love for all house- hold work. Although it was often hard to “ help mother ” when other children were at play, the knowledge thus gained has proved invaluable. Every 3’ear’s experience in teaching has made me prize more and more this early training. Also, I am deeplj’ indebted to Miss M. S. Devereux for the illustrations of this book. In all my work I have been greatl}^ aided bj^ her suggestions and generous sympathy. And, lastl}’, I would not forget my obligations to a large circle of personal friends. Especiall}^ would I remember the one who, twenty- j’ears ago, aided me in making my first loaf of bread, and the man}’’ among my pupils who, out of their varied experience, have contributed much that has proved helpful. MARY J. LINCOLN. Wollaston, Mass., 1884. CONTENTS PACK Introduction 1 Bread and Bread Making 3G "Receipts for Yeast and Bread 62 Raised Biscuit, Rolls, etc 68 Stale Bread, Toast, etc 75 Soda Biscuit, Muffins, Gems, etc 80 Waffles and Griddle-Cakes 97 Fried Muffins, Fritters, Doughnuts, etc 102 Oatmeal and other Grains 108 Beverages Ill Soup and Stock , . ' 119 Soup without Stock 146 Fish 159 Shell Fish 175 Meat and Fish Sauces 187 Eggs 197 Meat 210 Beef 214 Mutton and Lamb 232 Veal 239 Pork 245 Poultry and Game 251 Entrees and Meat Rechauffe 265 Sundries 282 Xll Contents, PAGE Vegetables 289 Eice and Macaboni 306 Salads . 309 Pastry and Pies 316 Pudding Sauces 328 Hot Puddings 331 Custards, Jellies, and Creams 341 Ice-Cream and Sherbet 361 Cake 369 Pruit 391 Cooking for Invalids 407 Miscellaneous Hints 435 The Dining-Eoom 439 The Care of Kitchen Utensils 443 An Outline of Study for Teachers 449 Suggestions to Teachers 483 A Course of Study for Normal Pupils 485 Miscellaneous Questions for Examination 486 Topics and Illustrations for Lectures on Cookery . 490 Course of Instruction at the Boston Cooking-School . 495 Explanation of Terms used in Cookery 503 List of Utensils needed in a Cooking-School . . . 508 General Index 513 Alphabetical Index 529 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS, PAGE Fig. 1. Grain of Wheat , 37 “ 2. Grain of Wheat with Bran removed .... 38 “ 3. Grain of Wheat magnified 38 “ 4. Yeast Plant 46 “ 5. Cruller 105 “ 6. Cruller after Folding 105 “ 7. Baked Fish 164 “ 8. Small Fish served whole ........ 166 “ 9. Scalloped Lobster 183 “ 10. Omelet 201 “ 11. Orange Omelet 202 “ 12. Eggs and Minced Meat 205 “ 13. Stuffed Eggs 206 “ 14. Eggs a la Creme 208 “ 15. Diagram of Ox 212 “ 16. Hind Quarter of Beef 212 “ 17. Aitch Bone 214 “ 18. Bound 215 “ 19. Back of Rump . 216 “ 20. First Cut of Sirloin 216 “ 21. Sirloin Roast 217 “ 22. Tip of Sirloin 218 “ 23. First Cut of Rib 219 “ 24. Chuck Rib 219 “ 25. Fillet of Beef 222 “ 26. Mutton Duck 235 “ 27. Paper Ruffle ... 236 “ 28. Chop 237 “ 29. Chop in Paper . 237 XIV List of Illustrations. PAGE Fig. 30. Calf’s Heart 241 “ 31. Sweetbreads and Bacon 243 “ 32. Sweetbreads on Macaroni 244 “ 33. Pigeons and Spinach on Toast 264 “ 34. Boned Turkey, browned 265 “ 35. Boned Chicken, larded and baked 266 “ 36. Chicken in Jelly 267 “ 37. Meat Porcupine 272 “ 38. Croquettes 279 “ 39. Stuffed Potatoes 296 “ 40. Chicken Salad 314 “ 41. Lobster Salad 315 “ 42. Bow-Knots 321 “ 43. Cheese Straws 322 “ 44. Apple Snowballs 335 “ 45. Orange Charlotte 348 “ 46. Orange Baskets 351 “ 47. Mould of Bavarian Cream 357 “ 48. Royal Diplomatic Pudding . 358 “ 49. Strawberry Charlotte 360 “ 50. Cookies 386 DEMONSTRATION LECTURES ON COOKERY, By MRS. LINCOLN. Schools or Societies in other cities, wishing one Demonstration or a course of Lectures, can secure Mrs. Lincoln’s services by applying to her personally or by letter. For terms, address, Mrs. D. A. LINCOLN, Wollaston, Mass. 1 Among all the cook books, Mrs. D. A. Lincoln’s Bos- ton Cook Book will certainly take its place as erne of the very best. It is published and ari'anged in a very con- venient and attractive form, and the style in which it is written has a certain literary quality which will tempt those who are not interested in recipes and cooking to peruse its pages. The recipes are practical, and give just those facts which are 'generally omitted from books of this sort, to the discouragement of the housekeeper and fre- quently to the lamentable disaster and failure of her plans. Mrs. Lincoln has laid a large number of people under obligation, and puts into her book a large amount of general experience in the difficult and delicate art of cooking. The book is admirably arranged, and is supplied with the most perfect indexes we have ever seen in any work of the kind." — The Christian Union. Just published : CARVING AND SERVING. By MRS. D. A. LINCOLN, AUTHOR OF “ THE BOSTON COOK BOOK.” ♦ i6mo. Board covers. Price, 6o cents THE BOSTON COOK BOOK COOKERY Cookery is the art of preparing food for the nonrish- raent of the human bod}’. When given its proper impor- tance in the consideration of health and comfort, it must be based upon scientific principles of hygiene and what the French call the minor moralities of the household. All civilized nations cook their food, to improve its taste and digestibility. The degree of civilization is often measured by the cuisine. Cooking (from the Latin coquo^ to boil, bake, heat, dry, scorch, or ripen) is usually done by the direct application of heat. Fruits and some vegetables which are eaten in a natural state have really been cooked or ripened by the heat of the sun. Milk and eggs, which are types of per- fect food, would be useless as food unless they came fi'om the warm living animal. Fish, flesh, and fruits which have been dried in the sun or smoked, and are often eaten without any further preparation, have undergone a certain process of natural cooking. Heat seems to create new flavors, and to change the odor, taste, and digestibility of nearly all articles of food. It swells and bursts the starch cells in flour, rice, and potatoes ; hardens the albumen in eggs, fish, and meat ; softens the fibrous substances in tough meats, hard vege- tables and fruits. It develops new flavors in tea, coffee, roasted meat, crusts of bread, baked beans, etc. 1 2 The Boston Cook Book, Cold is also an important matter to be regarded in the preparation of food. Sweet dishes and certain flavors, like honey, ices, and custards ; the water, wine, or milk we drink ; our butter, fruits, and salads, — are all more pala- table when cold. Water ^ or some other liquid, in connection with heat is necessar3^ in manj’^ forms of cookery. Grains, peas, beans, dried fruits which have parted with nearly all their moisture in the ripening or dr3dng process necessarv' for their preser- vation, need a large portion of water in cooking, to soften and swell the cellulose, gluten, and starch before the}’’ can be masticated and digested. In some vegetables and fruits water draws out certain undesirable flavors ; it soltens and dissolves the gelatinous portions of meat, and makes palatable and nourishing many substances which would be rendered unwholesome b}^ a dry heat. Air^ or the free action of ox}'gen, upon our food while cooking develops certain flavors not otherwise to be ob- tained. Meat roasted or broiled has a much finer flavor than when boiled, baked, or fried. Toasted bread, thin corn cake baked before the fire, roasted apples, and many articles cooked in the open air, show the benefit of this free combined action of heat and air. Drying in the sun was one of the earliest modes of cookery. Then came roasting before an open fire, or broiling over the coals, and baking in the hot ashes. This last was the primitive oven. As the art of making cooking-utensils developed, stewing, boiling, and fiying were adopted. Then, to economize heat, portable ovens were invented ; these were originally a covered dish set over or near the fire, having sometimes a double cover filled with coals. Afterwards, stoves which kept the fire and heat in a limited space were introduced ; and im- provements have been made in them so extensively that we now have them with conveniences for doing eveiy form of cooking with wood, coal, oil, or gas. Some one gives this distinction between man and other animals : “ Man is an animal that builds a fire and uses it The Boston Cook Book, 3 to cook his food.” It is quite important then, as a step- ping-stone to cooking, to learn the properties and manage- ment of a fire. Fire. Fire is heat and light produced by the combustion of inflammable substances. Combustion is a chemical opera- tion carried on in the air, or the chemical union of the ox3'gen of the air with some combustible bod}'^, like h}"- drogen gas or the solid carbon, and is attended with the evolution of heat and light. The heat and the light come from the sun. With every particle of vegetable matter that is formed by the combined action of the sun and the carbonic acid gas in the air, a portion of the sun’s heat and light is absorbed and held fast in it. And whenever this vegetable matter is decomposed, — as in burning wood, coal, or oil, which are onh" definite forms of vegetable mat- ter, — this heat and light are given out. The amount of each depends upon the mode of burning. Air is composed mainly of two elementar}" gases, oxj’geii and nitrogen (one part ox}’gen and four parts nitrogen), with a small amount of watery vapor and carbonic acid gas. Pure oxygen is a gas which has a wonderful attraction for, and power of combination with, every other element. If it were ever}^ where present in a perfectly pure state, it would consume or burn up everj-thing ; but it is diluted or mixed (not combined) with nitrogen, another gas which IS incombustible, and which lessens the combustibility of everything with which it comes in contact. Owing to this dilution, the ox}’gen will not unite with the carbon and h^'drogen with which’ it is ever^'where surrounded, and produce rapid combustion, except at a high temperature. The temperature at which this union takes place is called the burning-point, and this varies in different substances. Thus combustion is within the power and control of man ; and some extra means are usually employed to increase the temperature to the burning-point, — friction, or per- cussion, or the use of some more highly inflammable 4 The Boston Cook Book. substances, like sulphur and phosphorus. This produces heat suflScient to complete the chemical union, or, in com- mon phrase, “kindles the fire.” The heat generated for all household purposes is produced by the chemical action of the ox3^gen of the air upon the h}’- drogen and carbon which are found in the various kinds ot wood and coal. The ox}’gen first combines with the car- bon and decomposes it, producing carbonic acid gas, which escapes into the air, from which it is absorbed b^' plants, or by human lungs when there is no proper ventilation. The ox}^gen also combines with the hj’drogen gas in the fuel, and this produces the flame ; the larger the amount of hj^drogen in the fuel, the greater the amount of flame. Some of the products of combustion are not entirelj' con- sumed, and pass ofi* as smoke ; some are incombustible, and remain as ashes. The intensity of a fire and the amount of heat which it produces are always in proportion to the amount of oxygen with which it is supplied. There should be just air enough for perfect combustion. An excess of air projected upon a fire convej's away the heat, cools the fuel, and checks the combustion. The supply of air should be controlled by confining it in a limited space. Fires are usually kindled at the bottom of a flue or chim- ne3^ The heated air, being lighter, rises ; the colder, den- ser air rushes in to take its place, becomes heated, and ascends. Thus a continuous current is established, and a constant supply of fresh air secured. The chimney serves to caiT3’ off the smoke and poisonous products of combus- tion ; the heavier, incombustible products settle in the form of ashes. The force of this current of air drawing through the chimney (a matter of great importance) is called the draught. It varies with the temperature and amount of air in the room, and the length and width of the chimne3'. Fuel. The materials generall3’ used as fuel are wood, charcoal, coal, kerosene oil, and gas. The Boston Cook Book. 5 Sojl woods ^ such as pine or birch, kindle quickl}^ produce intense heat, and are best for a quick, blazing fire. Hard woods ^ like oak, ash, and hickor}^ burn more slowly, but produce harder coals, which retain the heat longer, and are better where long-continued heat is required. Charcoal^ which is coal made by charring or burning wood with only a limited supply of air, burns easily and produces greater heat in proportion to its weight than an}- other fuel. It should never be burned in a close room. Anthracite coal is a kind of mineral charcoal derived from ancient vegetation buried in the earth, and so thoroughly pressed that nothing is left but pure carbon, a little sul- phur, and the incombustible ash. It kindles slowly, yields an intense, steady heat, and burns for a longer time with- out replenishing than the hardest wood. Cble, often used in cities, is the residue of coal from which illuminating gas has been manufactured. The heat is intense, but transient. Stoves for burning kerosene oil and gas have recently been introduced, and are now so nearl}^ perfect that the care of a fire for cooking purposes is trifling. Gas can only be used in certain localities. The cheapest fuel is the best kerosene oil. There need be no waste, no superfluous heat, no vitiated air, if the fire be extinguished immediately after the work is done, and if the stove be kept perfectly clean, so as to secure a free burning and perfect combustion. With two good stoves having all the latest and best improvements, a large amount of work can be easily and satisfactorily accomplished. The Making and Care of a Coal Fire. If you intend to buy a new stove or range, get one sim- ple in construction, that you may quickly learn all its parts and their uses ; plain in finish, that 5’ou ma}’^ easil}" keep it clean ; and perfectly fitted part to part, with doors and dampers shutting absolutely close, so that you may con- trol the fire and heat. This latter point is of essential 6 The Boston Cook Book, importance in regulating the oven and in preventing a waste of fuel. • Become thoroughl}^ acquainted with whatever stove you may have. If necessary, take it apart; learn how to clean it in the inside, to regulate the dampers for all the variations of wind, temperature, and fuel ; and then learn how to make and keep a fire. All stoves have a fire-box, with more or less space under- neath for ashes ; a slide damper under the fire, letting in the air ; an outlet for the smoke ; and a damper which reg- ulates the supply of hot air, sending it around and under- neath the oven, or letting it escape into the chimne}’. Remove the covers and brush the soot from the top of the oven into the fire-box ; then clean out the grate ; and if the stove have conveniences for so doing, sift the ashes in the stove and save all the old coal and cinders. Put in shavings or loose rolls of paper, then fine pine kindlings, arranged crosswise, and a layer of hard wood, leaving plenty of air space between the pieces. Be sure the wood comes out to each end of the fire-box. Put on the covers ; and if the stove need cleaning, moisten some pulverized stove polish with water, and rub the stove with a paint brush dipped in the polish. When all blackened, rub with a dry polishing-brush until nearly dry. Open the direct draught and oven damper, and light the paper, as a slight heat facilitates the process of polishing. When the wood is thoroughly kindled, fill the fire-box with coal even with the top of the oven. Brush up the hearth and floor, empty the teakettle, and fill it with fresh water. Watch the fire, and push the coal down as the wood burns away, and add enough more coal to keep it even with the top of the fire bricks. When the blue flame becomes white, close the oven damper ; and when the coal is burning freely, but not red, shut the direct draught. It seems impossible for some persons to understand that a coal fire is at its height as soon as well kindled, and needs only air enough to keep it burning. When it becomes bright red all through, it has parted with most of its heat, and begins to die out. Tons The Boston Cook Book. 7 of coal are wasted in man}' kitchens, and ranges are need- lessly burned out, by filling the fire-box till the coal touches the covers, and leaving the draughts open till the coal is red. Nearly all stoves and portable ranges have the oven at one side of and a little below the fire. In brick-set ranges the ovens are sometimes over the fire. A stove has a door on each side of the oven, with the fire-box in front. A portable range has only one oven-door, and the fire-box at the end. In ranges where the oven is over the fire, the articles to be baked are placed on a grate near the middle, as the bottom of the oven is usually very hot. In stoves or portable ranges anything which has to rise in the oven, like bread, pastry, cake, etc., is placed on the bottom of the oven, and, if the heat be too great, a small rack or grate may be placed under it. Large pieces of meat are placed on a rack in a pan ; while small cuts of meat, birds, etc., which are to be baked quickly, and any dishes which are to be merely browned, like scalloped dishes, must be placed on the grate near the top. Cultivate the habit of opening and shutting the oven-door quickly but gently. Learn the hottest and coolest places in the oven. Look at things as they are baking, and turn and watch till you are sure they can be left alone. If anything bake unevenly or too fast, put a screen between it and the heat, — a pan on the grate above or underneath, or a frame of stiff paper made larger than the pan, that it may not touch the dough. When the regulating dampers are closed and the oven is still too hot, lift a cover on the top partly off, although in a stove in which the parts are perfectly adjusted this will never be necessary. When the oven is not hot enough, open the direct draught, and rake out the ashes from the grate. Keep the grate cleaned out and the fire burning freely, when a very hot oven is needed. At other times keep the draughts shut and do not waste the coal. To keep a brisk fire for several hours or all day, it is better to add a sprinkling of coal often, rather than to let it burn nearly out, and then, by adding a larger quantity, 8 The Boston Cook Book, check the fire and retard the work. In using the top of the stove remember the hottest place is over the fire and toward the middle, not on the front of the stove. When you have once watched the flame in its passage over the top, down the back, and under the oven, then across, out and up on the opposite side and out into the chimney, you will understand where the greatest heat must be. Boiling. The term ‘ ‘ boiling ” is often used erroneously in cook- ery. The expressions “ the teakettle boils,” “ the rice is boiling,” “ boiled beef,” etc., are all good illustrations of the rhetorical figure metonymy^ but they are practically incorrect. In all cases it is only the water or liquid which boils. No solid can boil until first changed to a liquid. Solids become liquid at the melting-point. Liquids take the form of steam or vapor at the boiling-point. Boiling is the conversion of a liquid into steam by the application of heat suflflcient to cause ebullition^ or agitation of its sur- face. Boiling, therefore, as applied to the cooking of solids, is heating or cooking in a boiling liquid. It is one of the most general!}' used, and abused, forms of cooking. Boiling water, which is really cooked water, is the liquid usually employed. Water, as it is heated from below, ex- pands into vapor. The air of the water and the steam shoot up in the form of bubbles ; as they come in contact with the cold water near the surface, the bubbles collapse, the steam is condensed and descends with the cold water, making a double set of currents, which causes quite a eom- motion among the particles. As the whole body of water becomes hotter, these bubbles of steam rise higher and higher before collapsing, and occasion the sound which we call the “ singing of the kettle.” When the water is sufficiently heated, they rise and break at the surface, causing more or less agitation, according to the rapidity with which they are formed. Water is sealding hot at 150°, 01 when the hand cannot be borne in it. Water The Boston Cook Book. 9 simmers when the bubbles all collapse beneath the surface, and the steam is condensed to water again, or at 185°. Water boils when the bubbles rise to the surface, and the steam is thrown off, as at 212°. When this boiling-point is reached, the heat escapes with the steam ; and all the fire in the world cannot make the water any hotter, so long as the steam escapes. If the fire be verj" fierce, so that these bubbles are formed and expelled rapidly, and the water boils over, the water is no hotter ; it only evaporates or boils away faster, and can only be made hotter by confin- ing the steam, which in ordinary kettles is impossible, owing to the enormous expansive force of the steam. With a few exceptions it is a waste of fuel, time, and ma- terial to keep the water boiling at such a galloping rate that the cover has to be lifted to prevent boiling over. A kettle should never be quite full, as the water ex- pands in heating, and, in boiling over, makes needless work and injures the stove. Water will boil more quickly in a kettle with a rough surface than in one wdth a smooth surface, as the water adheres to a smooth surface with greater force, and this force or attraction must be over- come before boiling takes place. Small, clean gravel is sometimes kept in a smooth kettle to facilitate the boiling. Water boils at a higher temperature when there is sugar, or salt, or anything in it to increase its density. It takes longer for it to boil ; but it is hotter, when that point is reached. No one who has been burned by boiling S3'rup ever doubted this fact. Fresh water boils at 212° ; salt water, at 224°. If we put salt with the water in the lower part of a double boiler, a greater degree of heat is obtained by which to cook the articles in the top. Water boils at a lower temperature, that is, more quickl3", when the pressure of the air upon the water is diminished. Before a rain the pressure of the air is lessened, because the air when filled with vapor is lighter. Observing house- keepers have often noticed how quickly things burn at such a time, and foretell a rain by the rapidity with which water evaporates. lO The Boston Cook Book. The pressure of the air is less the higher we ascend above tli6 level of the sea, since we leave much of the air below us. Cooking in boiling water requires a much longer time in mountainous regions ; for the water boils so quickly that it holds less heat than in lower altitudes, where it is subject to greater pressure. Water, in boiling, loses the air or gases which give it a fresh taste and spark- ling appearance. It becomes flat and tasteless. If there be any impurity in water, boiling or cooking will destroy it. Then, by cooling, and exposing to pure air again, it becomes aerated and palatable. But water for cooking, unless there are impurities to be removed, should be used when freshly boiled. This is especiall}' important in mak- ing tea and coffee. Soft water should be used in boiling where the object is to soften the texture, and extract the soluble parts, as in soups, broths, tea, and coffee. Hard water, or soft water salted, is better where we wish to preserve the articles whole, and retain the soluble and flavoring principles, as in most green vegetables. Beans or dried peas, which contain casein or vegetable albumen in large proportion, should be cooked in soft water, as the lime in hard water hardens the casein, and prevents the vegetables from becoming soft. In cooking meat, fish, and vegetables in water, we should remember these two facts : — Cold water draws out the albuminous juices, softens the fibres and gelatinous portions of meat, and holds them in solution. It draws out starch, but does not unite with it. Boiling water hardens and toughens albumen and fibrine, bursts the starch grains, and is absorbed by the swelling starch. Meat is cooked in water for three distinct purposes : — First. To keep the nutriment within the meat., as in what is usually called boiled meat. To do this, we leave the meat whole, that only a little surface may be exposed. Plunge it into boiling salted water, and keep it there for five or ten minutes ; this hardens the albumen over the entire surface, and makes a coatin'g through which the juices The Boston Cook Book. II cannot escape. Then move the kettle where the water will simmer slowl3\ See that the cover fits tightly', to keep in the steam. The water should be salted to raise the boiling-point, and increase the density of the water, and thus prevent the escape of the juices. A small amount of the albumen in the outer surface will be dissolved and rise as scum. This should be removed, or it will settle on the meat and render it uninviting in appearance. If the meat be put in the kettle with the bones uppermost, then the scum will not settle on the meat. In turning the meat do not pierce into it to let the juices escape. It will take a longer time to cook in this wa^’, but the fibrine will be softened, and the meat made more tender and of better flavor, than when kept boiling furiously. Second. Meats are cooked in water to have the nutri- ment wholly in the liquid., as in soups and meat teas. Cut the meat in small pieces ; soak in cold water, the longer the better ; heat gradualh*, and keep hot, but not boiling, until all the goodness is extracted. Third. Meats are cooked in water to have the nutri- mentin the liquid partly in the meat., as in stews., fricassees., etc.. Put the meat in cold water, let the water boil quickl}^, then skim, and keep at the simmering-point. The cold water will draw out enough of the juices to enrich the liquid ; then, as it reaches the boiling-point, the meat hardens, and retains the remainder. Fish is usuall}^ cooked in boiling water for the purpose of keeping the juices in the fish. As the flesh of fish breaks easily’, the water should never be allowed to boil rapidl}'. Salmon, mackerel, or any veiy oily fish, should be put into cold water, and brought almost to the boiling- point quickl}", as they have a ver^' strong, rich flavor. A little of this flavor can be lost without injury to the fish. Vegetables, which are mostly starch and water, should be put into boiling water and boiled rapidly, that the small portions of albumen which thej' contain may be hardened on the surface ; then, if the starch grains are burst quickly, they will absorb the albuminous juices within. 12 The Boston Cook Book. Milk boils at 196°. Being thicker than water, less of the steam escapes, and the whole liquid becomes hot sooner than water. The bubbles rise rapidl}-, and, owing to their tenacity, do not burst at the surface, but climb over one another till they run over the edge of the pan. Milk, grains, custards, and any substances which, from their glutinous nature, would be liable to adhere to the kettle, are much more easily and safely cooked in a double boiler, or in a pail within a kettle of water. This is one form of steaming^ or cooking over boiling water. In steam- ing, the water should not stop boiling until the articles are cooked. This is a convenient form of cooking many arti- cles which it is troublesome to cook with a drj^ heat, and yet do not need the solvent powers of water. Watery vegetables are rendered drier by steaming ; and tough pieces of meat which cannot be roasted, are first made tender b3- steaming, and then browned in the oven. Some- times meat is steamed in its own juices alone ; this is called smothering., or pot-roasting . Stewing is another form of boiling or cooking in a small quantity" qf water, at a moderate heat, and for a long time. The word means a slow, moist, gentle heat. It is an eco- nomical mode of cooking, except where a fire has to be kept for this purpose alone. The long-continued action of a gentle heat softens the fibres ; and the coarsest and cheapest kinds of meat, cooked in this wa}' , with vegeta- bles, may be made tender and nutritious. Bj’’ judicious use of seasoning material, remnants can be made into savoiy and nourishing dishes. Whether we call it simply a stew, or ragout, haricot, or salmi, the principle is the same, — that of slow, stead}’ simmering, rather than fierce boiling. Fricasseeing (meaning “to fry”) is a form of stewing. The term is usually applied to chicken, veal, or some small game, which is cut into pieces, and fried either before or after stewing, and served with a rich white or brown sauce, and without vegetables. An\’ meat that is quite juic}’ and not ver}’ tough maj’ be first browned on the out- side to keep in the juices, and improve the flavor. Coarse, The Boston Cook Book, 13 tough pieces should not be browned, but dipped in vinegar to soften the fibre ; and pieces containing much gristle should be put into cold water. Braising is a form of stewing done usually in a braising- pan or kettle which has coals in the cover. Any granite or iron pan with a close cover to keep in the steam will answer the purpose. When placed in the oven, where it is surrounded bj'^ a slow, uniform heat, it needs veiy little attention. It is one of the most economical and satisfac- tory ways of cooking large pieces of tough, lean meat, pigeons, liver, fowls, heart, etc. Stock, vegetables, and bacon may be used, if a rich liquor be required ; but water, herbs, and simple seasoning make it very palatable. Baking is hardening or cooking in a diy heat, as in a close oven. Nearly all fiour mixtures — bread, pastry, and .some forms of pudding — are more wholesome baked than when cooked in any other wa3^ Man^' forms of baking are really stewing ; but the closely confined heat of the oven gives an entirely different flavor from that obtained bj^ stewing over the fire. This is seen in the difference between stewed and baked apple-sauce, beans, etc. Meat and fish, if baked in the right wa}*, lose less in weight than when boiled or roasted. To bake them prop- erly, the juices must be kept within the meat. An intense heat at first is necessary to harden the albumen ; then re- duce the heat, that the outside may not become too hard, and baste frequently' to prevent drying. No water should be put in the pan at first, as it will then be impossible to have a greater heat than that of boiling water (212°) , while for baking meat 280°, or more, is required. Put one or two tablespoonfuls of beef drippings, or some of the fat from the meat, in the pan, to use in basting, as the fat can be made much hotter than water. If the joint be very large, or the meat need thorough cooking, like poultry', veal, or pork, water can be added to check the heat as soon as the outside is cooked sufficiently'^ to keep in the juices. This will keep the meat moist. Small cuts, and meats to be eaten rare, are better baked without water. 14 The Boston Cook Book, Many persons accustomed to meat roasted before the open fire object to the flavor of baked meat. If the oven be veiy hot at flrst, and opened every five minutes just long enough for the basting, which is an essential part of the cooking process, the smoky odor escapes. If there be no damper to check the heat underneath the oven, put the grate or another pan under the dripping-pan, as no heat is required under the meat. This will prevent the fat in the pan from burning and smoking the meat. Place the meat with the skin side down at first ; then, if tlie juices begin to flow, the skin keeps them in ; and, when turned, it brings the side which is to be up in serving next the hottest part of the oven, for the final browning. All baked meat or fish should be salted and floured all over. Salt draws out the juices ; but the flour unites with them, making a paste which soon hardens, and keeps them within. Baste often, and dredge with salt and flour after basting. If there be no shelf attached to the stove near the oven, keep a box or frame of wood just the height of the oven, near by, and pushed up close to it; it will be found very convenient to pull the pan out upon it when basting or turning the meat. Frying. Fr3’ing is cooking in hot fat, — not boiling fat, as it is so often called, for fat can be made much hotter than the temperature required for cooking, which is 385° ; the tem- perature for boiling fat is from 565° to 600°. Fr^Mng, when properl}^ done, is immersion in smoking-hot fat. The fat should be deep enough to entirel}^ cover the articles to be cooked ; and as it may be used many times, it is not so extravagant as some suppose to use such a quantity. The prime secret of nice filing is to have the fat hot enough to harden instantly the albumen on the outer surface, and thus prevent the fat from soaking into the inside of what- ever is to be fried. As a much higher temperature is required than that for boiling or baking, the articles are Ths Boston Cook Book. 15 very quickly cooked ; and they have a flavor quite unlike that given b}' any other form of cooking. All ai ticles to be fried should be thoroughly dried and slight!}' warmed. If very moist^ or very cold, or too 7nany articles be fried at a time, the fat becomes chilled, and the grease soaks into them. Then, as the moisture heats and boils, it causes such a commotion that the fat and water boil over, and there is great danger from the fat taking fire and spreading to your clothing, to say nothing of the trouble of cleaning the stove and floor. For this reason be careful not to let a drop of water, or of con- densed steam from another kettle, fall into the hot fat. Meat, fish, oysters, croquettes, etc., should be dried, and rolled in fine bread-crumbs, to absorb any moisture ; then rolled in beaten egg, and in fine crumbs again. The hot fat hardens the albumen of the egg instantly ; and that, with the crumbs, makes a fat-proof crust. Fish balls, fritters, and fried muffin mixtures contain egg and albumen sufficient to keep them from soaking fat, if the fat be only hot enough. A Scotch bowl, or deep iron or granite kettle, and a wire basket small enough to fit down into the kettle, are best to use in frying. The Test for Hot Fat. — When the fat begins to smoke put in a bit of bread ; if it brown quickly, or while you can count sixty as the clock ticks, it is hot enough for fried potatoes, doughnuts, etc. When hot enough to brown the bread while you count forty, it will do for fish balls, croquettes, etc. When ready to fry, plunge the basket into the hot fat to grease it, and then place in it the croquettes, or what- ever you may be frying, so that they will not touch each other. Hold the handle of the basket with a long fork, and plunge it quickly into the fat, but do not drop the handle, because if the fat begin to boil up, you can then raise the basket quickly, and wait till the ebullition has subsided before plunging it in again ; and thus avoid the danger of burning from the overflowing fat. The fat cools rapidly, when many articles are fried at once, and The Boston Cook Book. i6 should be reheated to the test point before frying any more. Time. — Any cooked mixture, such as fish balls and cro- quettes, or very small fish, oysters, scallops, etc., will be fried brown in one minute. Thicker fish, chops, and frit- ters require longer cooking ; and, after plunging them into the hot fat, the kettle should be set back from the fire to prevent them from becoming too brown before they are sufficient!}^ cooked. While frjdng, be careful not to spill an}" fat on the stove. Keep a tin plate in your left hand, and hold it under the basket, or ladle, as you take things from the fat. Braining. — Thorough draining is another secret of nice frying, and you cannot find a much hotter place than .right over the hot fat ; so hold your basket of fried food over the hot fat, and shake slightly, till all dripping has stopped. Then place the fried articles on soft or unglazed paper, to absorb the fat, and keep them hot till ready to serve. Never pile fried articles one on another. Fat for Frying. Lard, a mixture of half suet and half lard, drippings, or oil, may be used for frying. Suet and drippings are cheap- est, and are preferred by many. Suet used alone cools very quickly and leaves a tallowy taste. Drippings should be carefully clarified (see page 18) and freed from water, or the articles cooked will soak fat. Lard, with a small proportion of suet or drippings, is more generally satisfac- tory. There is often a very disagreeable odor to new lard, and more or less water in it, as is shown by the froth and ebullition as soon as it becomes hot. Before it is used for any purpose it should be clarified with slices of raw potato and heated until it becomes still. Olive oil is the purest fat for frying, but it is too expensive for general use. Cotton- seed oil has been recently introduced for cooking purposes, and is an excellent fat for frying, though many dislike its peculiar odor. It may be heated much hotter than lardj The Boston Cook Book, 17 without burning, and, when properly used, imparts no flavor to the food. When the fat becomes too brown for potatoes or doughnuts, use it for croquettes, etc., and then use it for nothing except fish balls and fish. When it be- comes verj’ brown, put it with the soap-grease. If you wish to fiy several kinds at the same time, begin with potatoes, following with doughnuts or flour mixtures, and crumbed articles last ; otherwise the crumbs will fall off, and adhere to whatever is put in subsequently. After eveiy frying, strain the fat through a fine wire strainer or fine strainer cloth into a tin pail, not pouring it, but dip- ping it from the kettle with a small long-handled dipper. Let it cool slightW before straining, as, if very hot, it will melt the strainer. Sprinkle coffee on the stove, while fry- ing, to disguise the odor. Sauteing. The ordinar}^ wa}’ of frying in a shallow pan with only a little fat, first on one side and then on the other, which the French call sauteing^ answers veiy well for some purposes, — omelets, fried cakes, and many things browned in butter ; but nearl}’^ ever}'thing that requires any more fat than just enough to keep it from sticking, is much better immersed in hot fat. Fish balls, chops, and 03*sters are more quickly cooked, and absorb less fat, when fried by immersion than when sauted. Some people are extremely unwilling to make the change, and persist in going on in the old way of cooking in a little, half-hot fat which spatters over stove and floor, soaks into the fish or meat, and is often served as the only gravy. Upon such, dyspepsia is a fell avenger. These directions for frying are given thus minutely not from any desire to recommend this method of cooking ; but, if people will fry their food, they should do it in the only correct wa}\ With the exception of salt-fish balls and small, dry, white fish, there is nothing fried, even in 2 i8 The Boston Cook Book, the right way, that would not be equally good, and much more conducive to health, were it cooked otherwise. Sar- atoga potatoes, or chips as they are called, are really chips, for persons with weak digestion. Oysters, chops, fritters, and the materials in croquettes, muffins, and doughnuts may be cooked in manj' better ways. Frying answers very well for open-air cooking, on the seashore or in camp, where appetite and digestion are strengthened. But in most modern houses, where the odors from the kitchen penetrate the remotest nook and corner, there are many serious objections, apart from the indigestibility of the food thus prepared. The acrid odors given off during the heating of fat are very irritating to the mucous membrane of the nose and throat, and they are equally so to a sensitive stomach. Some persons who can usually digest fried food cannot do so wlien the stomach has been irritated b}^ the odor in fr3ung. If all those who are so fond of croquettes, fritters, etc., were obliged to inhale the smoking fat, these dishes would seldom appear on the table. To clarify Fat. All}' uncooked fat, such as suet, the fat from chickens, and all superfluous beef fat, should be saved and clarified, or made pure and clear. Cut the fat into small pieces, cover with cold water, and cook over a slow fire until the fat has melted, and the water nearl}- all evaporated. Then strain and press all the fat from the scraps. Wlien cool, remove the cake of hard fat, or, if soft, draw it to one side and let the water underneath run off. You ma\’’ put with the new fat an\^ fat from soup stock, corned beef, drippings from roast beef, veal, fresh pork, or chicken ; in fact, au}'- thing except the fat from mutton, turke}^ and smoked meat. If there be any sediment adhering to the fat, add a little ver}’ cold water, and, after stirring well, pour the water off, or skim the fat from the water. Place the fat in a pan over the fire, and, when melted, add one small raw potato, cut into thin slices. Let it stand on the top The Boston Cook Book, 19 of the stove or in the oven till the fat has stopped bub- bling, is still, and the scraps are brown and crisp and rise to the top. Strain through a fine strainer, and keep in a cool place. Fat thus cleared will keep sweet for weeks, if melted occasionall}^ which should always be done when anv new fat is added. «/ Boiling the fat causes the water in it to evaporate, and the organic matters or impurities to be decomposed, and deposited as sediment ; the potato, owing to its porosity and power of absorption (being mostly starch and carbon), absorbs any odors or gases, unites with the sediment, and thus cleanses the fat, very much as charcoal purifies water. Clarified fat (or dripping, as it is usually termed) an- swers for many purposes in cooking, — fry ing, sauteing, basting roast meat, greasing pans ; and as shortening for bread, plain pastiy, and gingerbread. Egg and Bread Crumbing. Hints on saving bread crusts and stale pieces, for egg and bread crumbing, are given on page 75. The crumbs should be sifted through a fine sieve. For fish or meat mix a little salt, pepper, and chopped parsley with them. Beat the eggs slightl3'’ with a fork in a shallow dish. Add one tablespoonful of water or two tablespoonfuls of milk for each egg. Add a little sugar if the}" are to be used for sweet dishes, and salt and pepper for all others. Sprinkle the crumbs on a board, and roll the chop, fish, or cro- quettes first in the crumbs ; shake off all that do not adhere. Cover all the articles with the crumbs and let them stand till diy, then dip into the beaten egg, and be careful to have ever}' part covered. Drain from the egg, and roll again in the crumbs. Croquettes or any soft mixture should be held on a broad knife while being placed in the egg. Then dip the egg over them, and slip the knife again lengthwise under the croquette, drain, and put it carefully into the crumbs. Scallops and very small 03"sters can be more easil}" crumbed by placing them with the crumbs in a 20 The Boston Cook Book. sheet of paper, and tossing or turning till all are crumbed. Remember the order : crumbs first, then egg, then crumbs again. Roasting. Roasting (meaning “ to heat violently” ) is cooking be- fore an open fire ; it implies the action of a mu?;h greater degree of heat than that emplo3*ed in an^' of the previously specified methods of cooking. The heat of an open fire is about 1,000°. In the da^'s of open fireplaces this was the general way of cooking large pieces of meat ; but now it is adopted onl}’ in large establishments, or b}' those who can afford the additional expense of a tin kitchen, and a range con- structed especially for roasting. Baking, or roasting in a very hot oven, being a cheaper and more convenient way, is more generally used. Ovens in stoves and ranges are now well ventilated ; and meat when properly cooked in a veiy hot oven, and basted often, is nearly equal in flavor to that roasted before an open fire. The fire for roasting should be clear and bright, and of suflScient bodj' to last, with only a slight sprinkling of coal, through the time for roasting. The meat is placed on a spit, and hung in the jack in a tin kitchen, and made to revolve slowly before the fire by winding a spring in the jack, or b}^ turning the spit at regular intervals. The meat should be rubbed with salt and flour, and placed on the spit, ver}'’ near the fire at first, to harden the albumen ; then removed a little dis- tance to prevent the meat from burning, before the inside is cooked. Place two or three spoonfuls of dripping in the pan to use in basting the meat ; baste often, and dredge two or three times with flour. When the joint is ver}’’ large, place a buttered paper over it. As the juices of’ meat are composed largely' of water, the water will be evaporated as soon as it reaches the boiling-point, or 212°. When meat is placed in a moder- ate oven, the heat is not sufficient to harden the albumen The Boston Cook Book. 21 on the outer surface ; the water}^ juices evaporate, the steam escapes, and the meat becomes dry and tasteless. But when meat is exposed to the intense heat of an open ^ fire, or a very hot oven, the albumen hardens ; and if basted frequently with hot fat, the meat is completely en- veloped in a varnish of hot melted fat, which assists in communicating the heat to the inside, and checks the evaporation of the juices ; this prevents the eschpe of the steam, so that the inside of proper!}^ roasted meat is really cooked in the steam of its own juices. The evapo ration of juices is proportionate to the amount of surface exposed. A small joint has a larger surface in proportion to its weight than a large joint weighing double or treble the amount ; therefore the smaller the joint to be roasted, the higher the temperature to which its surface should be ex- posed, that the evaporation ma}’ be more quickl}" arrested. For very thin pieces of meat, which have a still larger surface in proportion to the weight, such as steaks and chops, a greater heat is required. This is accomplished by broiling., which should be done near the burning- point, the highest degree of heat employed in any form of cooking. Broiling. Broiling (meaning “ to burn” ) is cooking directly over the hot coals. The degree of heat is so intense that the articles to be cooked would be very quickl}^ burned, were they allowed to remain for any length of time over the fire. The secret of nice broiling is frequent turning. The fire should be bright red, and nearl}^ to the top of the fire-box, so that the broiler may almost touch the fire. There should be no flame, as the flame from coal is due to the combustion of tariy vapors, and will cause a deposit of coal tar on the meat, giving it a smok}", nauseating flavor. When the fat from the chop or steak drips on the coals and blazes, it deposits a film of mutton or beef fat all over the meat, which has a very different flavor from that of the coal flame. When the steak has much fat, remove 22 The Boston Cook Book, part of it. A little fat will improve the flavor, baste the meat, and keep it from becoming too diy. The oven damper should alwa}’s be opened while broiling, that the smoke of the dripping fat maj' be carried into the chimney. There is nothing better for broiling than a double wire broiler. It is well to have several sizes. Grease it well with a bit of the fat from the meat, or with salt-pork rind. Place the thickest part of whatever is to be broiled next the middle of the broiler. Do not salt the meat, as salt draws out the juice. Have the platter heating, and ever}’- thiug else read}', that }’ou may not leave the broiling for an instant. Hold the broiler firml}', with a coarse towel wrapped around }'Our hand to protect it from the heat. Place it as near the fire as possible, to sear the outside instantly ; count ten, then sear the other side. The heat hardens the outside, and starts the flow of the juices. They cannot escape through the hardened outer surface ; but if the meat were cooked wholly on one side before turning, they would soon come to the top, and then, in turning the meat, the juices would drip into the fire. But if the meat be turned before the juices reach the top, the other surface is hardened, and the}^ cannot escape, but flow to the centre, and are there retained. As the juices are converted into steam b}' the heat, they swell and give the meat a puffy appearance. If the broiling be carried on too long, these juices gradually ooze between the fibres to the surface, and are evaporated ; and the meat becomes dry, leatheiy, and indigestible. Meat should be broiled only long enough to loosen all the fibres, and start the flow of the juices. The meat will spring up instantly when pressed with the knife ; and when it ceases to do this, the juices have begun to evaporate, and the meat shrinks. A little experience w'ill enable one to decide just when to remove the meat. Do not cut into it, as this lets out the juices. It should be pink and juicy, not raw and purple, nor brown and dr}'. Turn over as often as you can count ten, and cook four minutes, if The Boston Cook Book. 23 one inch thick ; six, if one inch and a half thick. The smaller and thinner the article, the hotter should be the fire ; the larger the article, the more temperate the fire, or the greater the distance from the fire. Fish should be floured to keep the skin from sticking. A large baking-pan to keep in the heat should be held over an^'thing which is very thick and requires to be cooked a long time. Chickens, which need to be thoroughly broiled but not burned or dried, require about twenty minutes. A safe wa}' is to wrap them in buttered glazed paper ; cook the inner side first, and after the first searing keep them at a little distance from the fire. Chops, bacon, birds, and diy fish are also improved by broiling in the buttered paper. Take a large sheet of white letter paper, or two small sheets. Rub them well with softened butter. This keeps out the air. Season the chop or fish with salt and pepper, place it near the centre of the paper, and fold the edges of the paper over several times and pinch them together close to the meat. The paper will char a long time before blazing, if care be taken not to break through the paper and thus let in the air and let out all the fat. The meat will be basted with its own fat and juices. A longer time will be required for the broiling ; but when the paper is well browned, the chop will be done. It will be found juicy and delicious, — free from an}" smok}’ flavor. Pan^hroilincj is broiling in a hissing hot spider or frying- pan. Heat the pan to a blue heat. Rub it with a bit of the beef fat, just enough to keep the meat from sticking, but do not leave any fat in the pan. Sear the meat quickly on one side, then turn without cutting into the meat, and brown the other side before any juice escapes into the pan. Cook about four minutes, turning twice, and serve very hot with salt and butter. If the pan be hot enough and no fat used, this is not frying, it is hroiling on hot iron; and the flavor is almost equal to broiling over the coals. 24 The Boston Cook Book. Time Tables for Cooking. Baking Bread, Cake, and Puddings. Baking Meats. Loaf bread .... 40 to 60 m. Beef, sirloin, rare, per lb. 8 to 10 m. Rolls, biscuit . . . 10 to 20 “ Beef, sirloin, well done. Graham gems . . . 30 “ per lb 12 to 15 U Gingerbread .... 20 to 30 “ Beef, rolled rib or rump. Sponge cake .... 45 to 60 “ per lb 12 to 15 4& Plain “ ... 30 to 40 “ Beef, long or short fillet 20 to 30 ii Fruit “ ... 2 to 3 hrs. Mutton, rare, per lb. 10 ii Cookies 10 to 15 m. Mutton, well done. Bread pudding . . . 1 hr. per lb 15 (4 Rice and Tapioca . . 1 “ Lamb, well done, per lb. 15 ii Indian pudding . . . 2to 3 “ Veal “ “ “ 20 a Plum “ ... 2 to 3 “ Pork “ “ “ 30 it Custards 15 to 20 m. Turkey, 10 lbs. wt. 3 hrs. Steamed brown-bread . 3 hrs. Chickens, 3 to 4 lbs. wt. 1 to 1^ (4 Steamed puddings . . Ito 3 “ Goose, 8 lbs 2 44 Pie-crust . . . about 30 m. Tame duck . . • • 40 to 60 m. Potatoes . . . 30 to 45 “ Game “ . , • • 30 to 40 “ Baked beans 6 to 8 hrs. Grouse .... 30 “ Braised meat 3 to 4 “ Pigeons . . . • • 30 “ Scalloped dishes 15 to 20 ra. Small birds . . • • 15 to 20 “ Venison, per lb. . • • 15 “ Fish, 6 to 8 lbs. ; loug, thin fish . . • « 1 hr. Fish, 4 to 6 lbs.; thick halibut . . . • 1 “ Fish, small • . • • 20 to 30 m. Boiling. Eggs, coffee, clams, oysters Rice, green corn, peas, tomatoes, asparagus, hard-boiled eggs Potatoes, macaroni, squash, celery, spinach, sweetbreads . . Young beets, carrots, turnips, onions, parsnips, cauliflow'er Young cabbage, string beans, shell beans, oyster plant . . • Winter vegetables, oatmeal, hominy and wheat, chickens and lamb Fowls, turkey, veal Corned beef, smoked tongue, beef a la mode Ham Halibut and salmon in cubical form, per lb Blue-fish, bass, etc., per lb Cod, haddock, aud small fish, per lb 3 to 5 m. 15 to 20 “ 20 to 30 “ 30 to 45 “ 45 to 60 “ 1 to 2 hrs. 2 to 3 “ 3 to 4 “ 4to 5 “ 15 in. 10 “ 6 “ Frying. Smelts, small fish, croquettes, fish balls . Muffins, fritters, doughnuts Slices of fish, breaded chops 1 m. 3 to 5 “ 4 to 6 “ The Boston Cook Book. 25 Broiling. Steak, one inch thick . . . Steak, one and a half inch thick Small, thin fish Thick fish Chops, broiled in paper . . Chickens 4 m. 6 “ 5 to 8 “ 12 to 15 “ 8 to 10 ‘‘ 20 Larding. Man}^ kinds of meat which are very lean and dry are improved by the addition of some kind of fat. The tender- loin or fillet of beef, the thick part of the leg of veal, grouse, and liver, are often prepared in this wa}^ Larding is drawing small strips of fat salt pork or bacon through the surface of the meat ; daubing is forcing strips of pork through the entire thickness of the meat. Take a piece of fat salt pork two inches wide and four inches long. Shave off' the rind the long way of the pork ; then cut two or three slices about a quarter of an inch thick, the same wa}^ as the rind ; cut only to the membrane which lies about an inch below the rind, as this is the firmest part of the pork ; then cut each slice across the width, into strips one quarter of an inch thick. This will make the lardoons one quarter of an inch wide and thick and two inches long. Insert one end of the lardoon into the end of the larding-needle, then with the point of the needle take up a stitch half an inch deep and one inch wide in the surface of the meat. Draw the needle through, and help the pork to go through by pushing until partly through, then hold the end of the pork and draw the needle out, leaving the pork in the meat, with the ends projecting at equal lengths. Take up more stitches one inch apart in parallel or alternate rows, until the whole surface is covered. Daubing is applied to a broad, thick piece of beef or veal. Cut the pork in strips one third of an inch wide and thick, and as long as the meat is thick. Punch a hole clear through the meat with a steel, and then insert the 26 The Boston Cook Booh, lardoon with a large larcling-needle or with the fingers. The salt and fat from the lardoons penetrate the inside of the meat, and by many are considered an improvement. Those who object to the pork will find that beef may be seasoned as well by covering the surface with nice beef sniit, salted ; or the pork may be laid on the meat and removed after cooking. The process is not difficult, re- quiring no more skill than an}' other kind of sewing. Boning. Any one w'ho can use a sharp knife, and scrape meat or fish from a bone, without cutting her own flesh, can bone anything, from the smallest bird, chop, or fish, to a leg or forequarter of lamb, or a turkey. A small knife with a sharp, short, pointed blade, is all that is required. It is well to begin on a small scale by removing the bone from a chop or steak. The aim is to remove the flesh from the bone without cutting into the flesh, or destroying its shape more than is necessary. To Bone a Chop or Steak. — Begin at the bone end, scrape the meat away, leaving the bone clean and the flesh un- broken. If there be a piece of tenderloin under the bone, remove it, and put it up close to the meat, which was above the bone in the original form. Directions for boning fish are given on page 161. To Bone a Leg of Mutton. — Cut it off at the first joint, insert the knife near the joint, and loosen the flesh from the bone, leaving all the gristle and tendons on the bone. Then begin at the tail end, and scrape the fat away from the backbone, then follow the bone (yon can easily tell by the feeling, if 3'ou cannot see it) until you come to the joint ; leave all the gristle and cords on the bone, and con- tinue scraping off the flesh till the wdiole bone is out. One could easily cut through from the outside to the bone and remove it in that w'ay ; but the flesh would have to be sewed together, and much of the juice w'ould escape. After removing the bone, stuff the cavity left by the bone, The Boston Cook Book. 27 and sew the skin together at the smaller end. Then bring the edges together at the upper end, crowding all the flesh inside, and sew the skin together tightly. This gives a rectangular form of solid meat and stufl3ng. When salted and floured and exposed to a hot oven, the juices are kept inside ; the meat is more conveniently served, and, when cold, does not become dry and hard. Any other pieces of meat are boned in a similar manner. To Bone a Bird, Fowl, or Turkey. — In this case the flesh is to be kept in the skin in order to preserve the shape. The skin should be firm and unbroken, and the bird should not be drawn. Remove the head and pin- feathers, singe and wipe carefullj*. Remove the tendons from the legs, and loosen the skin round the end of the drumstick. Make an incision through the skin from the neck to the middle of the back, or near the junction of the side bone. Scrape the flesh with the skin away from the backbone until you feel the end of the shoulder-blade ; loosen the flesh from this, and then follow the bone to the wing joint, and down to the middle joint in the wing. The skin lies verj’ near the bone underneath the joint, and care must be taken to avoid cutting through the skin at these places. Leave the first bone in the wing to aid in keeping the shape ; it ma}^ be removed before serving. In small birds there is so little meat on the wings, that it is just as well to cut them off at the middle joint. Re- move the bone from the other wing in the same way, then follow the collar bone from the wing down to the breast- bone, loosening the crop from the flesh. In removing the flesh from the breastbone, be careful not to cut through the skin on the ridge. The flesh may be pushed awa}* with the fingers, and the fillets or pieces that are detached from the other flesh can be laid aside, and put in place afterwards. When the breastbone is bare, separate the flesh from the ribs, and be careful not to break through the membrane into the inside. Remove the flesh round the second joint, then the drumsticks, turning the flesh wrong side out as in pulling a glove from the finger. 28 The Boston Cook Book. Repeat this process on the other side. Then scrape down to the end of the backbone, and cat through the bone, leaving a part of it in the tail. Separate the membrane under the body without breaking. Thus you have the flesh in the skin, and the skeleton left entire with the con- tents undisturbed in the inside. Lay the stuffing in, filling out the legs and wings, then sew the skin along the back, and skewer or tie into the original shape. An easier way of boning a fowd where it is to be rolled like a galantine^ is to cut off the wings at the second joint, break the drumstick half-way from the joint, cut the skin down the entire length of the back, remove the flesh from the wing and second joint, turning the skin and flesh off like a glove ; then do the same on the other wing and leg, leaAung the breast till the last. The wings and legs are turned inside, the stuffing is laid in the flesh, and the whole rolled over and over, and sewed on the edge of the skin and at the ends of the roll. Measuring. It has been said that “ good cooks never measure any- thing.” They do. The}^ measure b}^ judgment and ex- perience ; and until you have a large share of both these essential qualities, use }’our spoon and cup or scales. Measures, in preference to weights, are used in nearly all these receipts, as the}" are more convenient for the ma- jority of housekeepers. When measured and estimated by tlie Table of Weights and Measures on page 30, the cup and spoon may be used as accurately as the scales. Flour, meal, sugar, salt, spices, and soda should al- ways be sifted before measuring. Any other materials that have been packed, like mustard and baking powder, if not sifted, should be stirred, and broken up lightly. One tablespoonful of solid mustard taken carelessly from the box has been found equal to three tablespoonfuls measured after sifting. The saltspoons, teaspoons, and tablespoons used in these receipts are the silver spoons now in general use. Iron The Boston Cook Book. 29 mixing-spoons vary much in size, but there is a size which holds exactly the same as a silver tablespoon. Be careful to use this size in measuring. The cup is the common kitchen cup holding half a pint. Those with handles are more convenient. To measure a teaspoonful of dry material, dip into the sifted material, and take up a heaping spoonful, shake it slightly until it is just rounded over, or convex in the same proportion as the spoon is concave. An. even ov scant teaspoonful means the spoon filled lightly, and levelled ofi* with a knife. One half teaspoonful is most accurately measured by dividing through the middle lengthwise. When divided across the width the tip is smaller than the lower half A heaping teaspoonful is all the spoon will hold of an}' lightly sifted material. A teaspoonful of liquid is the spoon full to the brim. Tahlespoonfuls are measured in the same way. A cupful of dry material should be filled and heaped lightly (not shaken down), then levelled off even with the top. A small scoop should be kept in the flour or sugar to use in filling the cup. A heaping cupful is all the cup will hold. A cupful of liquid is not what you can carry without spilling, but what the cup will hold without running over ; full to the brim. Place your cup in a saucer, while filling it, or in the bowl in’which the liquid is to be poured. Half a cupful is not half the distance from the bottom to the rim. Most cups are smaller at the bottom, for which allowance must be made. Take two cups of the same size and shape, fill one with water, then pour the water without spilling into the other cup until it stands at the same level in both cups. This gives you the half-cupful exactly, which in the cups used here is two thirds of the height, or within an inch of the top. The quarter and three-quarter measures may be found in the same way. A scant cupful is within a quarter of an inch of the top. '‘^Butler the size of an eggf is a very common expression. This equals about one quarter of a cupful, or tw'o ounces, or one heaping tablespoonful, either of which is more easily 30 The Boston Cook Book. written than the first expression. Place an egg in one tablespoon, then pack butter in another till it fills the spoon in the same proportion as the egg, and 3'ou will easil}’ carry it in mind. Have your materials measured or at hand, and all uten- sils read}'’ before beginning the mixing, or putting the ingredients together. Keep a bucket or pai\ full of flour, freshly sifted each day, and ready for use. Measure flour first, and put it in a bowl or pan together with salt, soda, cream of tartar, and spice ; measure butter and put it in the mixing-bowl ; then measure the sugar, and, in scraping out the sugar, take the butter which has adhered to the cup. Break your eggs on the edge of the cup ; if the white be clear, the egg is good. Put the yolks in one bowl and the whites in another ; measure the milk or liquid, and, after using the beaten yolk, clean out the bowl with the milk. Or, measure all the dry ingredients, break and sep- arate the eggs, measure the milk, add it to the beaten yolks, and measure the melted butter last. In either way you can make one cup do for all without washing. *‘Two eggs beaten separately ” means that the yolks and whites are to be beaten separately, not each whole egg beaten separately. A tablespoonful of melted hitter is measured after melt- ing. A tablespoonful of butter melted is measured before melting. To economize space, in many of the receipts the abbre- viations are written : one cup for one cupful, tablesp. for tablesi)oonful, teasp. for teaspoonful, and saltsp. for salt- spoonful. All these measures mean a full measure, unless scant or heaping measures are specified. Table of Weights and Measures. 4 saltspoonfnls of liquid 4 tcoppoonfuls of liquid 3 teaspooiifuls of dry material 4 tahlespoonfuls of liquid 2 gills = 1 teaspoonful. = 1 tablespoonful. = 1 tablespoonful. = 1 wineglass, or i gill, or i cup. = 1 cup, or i pint. The Boston Cook Book, 31 16 tablespoonfuls of liquid 12 tablespoonfuls of dry material 8 heaping tablespoonfuls of diy material 4 cups of liquid 4 cups of flour 2 cups of solid butter \ cup of butter 2 cups of granulated sugar 2 \ cups of powdered sugar 3 cups of meal 1 pint of milk or water 1 pint of chopped meat packed solidly 9 large eggs, 10 medium eggs 1 round tablespoonful of butter 1 heaping tablespoonful of butter Butter the size of an egg 1 heaping (ablespoonful of sugar 2 round tablespoonfuls of flour 2 round tablespoonfuls of coffee 2 round tablespoonfuls of powd. sugar 1 tablespoonful of liquid 1 bottle S. M. wine 1 bottle brandy 1 small bottle Burnett’s extract 1 small bottle Burnett's extract 1 flask of oliv’e oil = 1 cup. = 1 cup. = 1 cup. = r quart. = 1 pound, or 1 quart. = 1 pound. = i pound. = 1 pound. = 1 pound. 1 pound. = 1 pound. — 1 pound. = 1 pound. = 1 ounce. — 2 ounces, or ^ cup^ = 2 ounces, or ^ cup. r= 1 ounce. = 1 ounce. — 1 ounce. = 1 ounce. = ^ ounce. = 3 cups, or 48 tablespoonfuls- = 1^ cups, or 24 tablespoonfuls- = ^ cup scant, or 3 tablespoonfuls. = 12 teaspoonfuls. = 14 cups, or 20 tablespoonfuls. Table of Proportions. 1 scant measure of liquid to 3 full measures of flour, for bread. 1 scaut measure of liquid to 2 full measures of flour, for muffins. 1 scant measure of liquid to 1 full measure of flour, for batters. ^ cup of yeast, or | of compressed yeastcake, to one pint of liquid. 1 even teasp. of soda and 2 full teasp. of cream tartar to 1 quart of flour. 3 heaping, or 4 even teaspoonfuls, of baking powder to 1 quart of flour. 1 teaspoonful of soda to 1 pint of sour milk. 1 teaspoonful of soda to 1 cup of molasses. 1 saltspoonful of salt to 1 quart of milk for custards. 1 teaspoonful of extract to 1 quart of custard. 1 saltspoonful of salt to 1 loaf of sponge cake. 1 teaspoonful of extract to 1 loaf of plain cake. 1 saltspoonful of spice to 1 loaf of plain cake. 1 teaspoonful of salt to 1 quart of soup stock or 2 quarts of flour. 1 saltspoonful of white pepper to 1 quart of soup stock. 1 teaspoonful of mixed herbs to 1 quart of solip stock. 1 tablespoonful of each chopped vegetable to 1 quart of soup stock. A speck of cayenne pepper is what you can take up on the point of a pen- knife or on a quarter-inch square surface. A pinch of salt or spice is about a saltspoonful. A pinch of hops is i of a cup. 32 The Boston Cook Book, The proportions of seasoning given in these receipts are not sufficient for those vho like highly seasoned food. It is easier to add more, than to remove any if too highly seasoned. Mixed Spice for Rich Cakes and Plum Puddings. ^ teaspoonful each of cloves and allspice. 1 teaspoonful each of mace and grated nutmeg. 3 teaspoonfuls of cinnamon. Spice Salt for Soups and Stuffings. 4 ounces of salt. 2 ounces of celery salt. 1 ounce each of white pepper and ground thyme. 1 ounce each of marjoram and summer savoiy. ^ ounce of sage. 1 saltspoonful of cayenne pepper, i teaspoonful each of cloves, allspice, and mace. Mix, sift, and keep closely covered. Mixed Whole Herbs, for Soups and Braised Meats. 1 bunch each of whole thyme and marjoram. 1 bunch each of summer savory and sage. ^ pound of bay leaves. Crush and break the leaves, blossoms, and stalks, and mix thoroughly. Mixing. Next to care in measuring comes the manner of mixing. The most accurate measurement of the best materials is often rendered useless by a neglect to put them together properl}’, and the blame is usuall}’ charged to tlie oven or the receipt. There are three distinct ways of mixing : Stirring^ Beating^ and Cutting or Folding. Stirring. — Let the bowl of the spoon rest slightly on the bottom of the mixing-bowl ; then move round and round in widening circles, without lifting the spoon out of The Boston Cook Book, 33 the mixture, except to scrape the sides of the bowl occa- sionally. Stir slowly at first, to avoid spattering ; add the liquid gradually, and be sure the bowl of the spoon (not the edge nor the tip merely) touches the bottom and sides of the bowl. This is mashing as well as stirring, and the mixture soon becomes a paste. When perfectl}^ smooth and free from lumps, add more liquid till 3’ou have the desired consistenc}’. We stir flour and water together for a thickening, or butter and flour and milk for a sauce. We stir when we rub butter to a cream, or when we make a batter or semi-dough. When we make a stiff dough we stir at first, and then turn the whole mass over, bringing the knife or spoon round the bowl and cutting up through the dough. Beating. — Tip the bowl slightl}^ and hold the spoon so that the edge scrapes the bowl, and bring it up through the mixture and over with a long quick flop to the oppo- site side; under, and up through again, lifting the spoon out of the mass and cutting clear through, scraping from the bottom at ever}^ stroke. Keep the bowl of the spoon and the sides of the mixing-bowl well scraped out, that all the material ma^” be equally beaten. We stir simply to blend two or more materials ; we heat to entangle all the air possible in the mixture. We beat eggs or batter or soft dough. The albumen of the eggs and the gluten of the flour, owing to their viscidity or glutinous properties, catch the air and hold it in the form of cells, something as we make soap bubbles bj^ blowing air into soapy water. The faster we beat, and the more we bring the material up from the bowl into the air, the more bubbles we have ; but one stirring motion will de- stro}* them. Yolks of eggs should be beaten nearly' as much as the whites, or till they are light or lemon-colored, and thicken perceptibly\ The whites should be beaten till they are stiff' and diy, or fly off in flakes, or can be turned upside down without spilling. When the two are to be put together, alway s plan to turn the whites into the j^olks, as there is less waste than when the yolks are turned into 8 34 The Boston Cook Book, the whites. Let the whites stand a minute, then run a palette knife round the edge close to the bowl ; the}- will slip out easil}^ and leave the bowl almost clean. For beating eggs, for nearly all purposes the Dover egg-beater is the best. There should be two sizes, the larger one for the whites of eggs. Hold the beater lightly in the left hand, and move it round through the egg while turning the handle. For frosting, and snow pudding, and all beat- ing of soft dough, use a perforated wooden spoon. Bowls with slightly flaring sides, and not too deep to be clasped from bottom to rim in the left hand, are most convenient. If tipped slightly toward the right, the beating is done more effectually. Cutting, or Folding, or Lifting. — Omelets, sponge cake, whipped cream, etc., should have the beaten white cut or folded in carefully to avoid breaking the air bubbles. Turn the mixture over with the spoon, cut through, lift up, and fold the materials together, lifting the part from below, up and over, and mixing ver}’’ gently until just blended. Do not stir round and round, nor beat quicklj\ All mixtures which are raised with eggs alone, should have the yolks and whites of the eggs thoroughlj’ and separately beaten ; any very thin batter, like pop-overs, pancakes, or gems made without eggs, should be beaten vigorousl}^ just before baking. Graham or whole-wheat flour is better than white flour for gems that are made without eggs, because it contains more gluten. Shall we stir only one way? No; stir any way you please, so long as }’ou blend or mix the materials. But after heating in air bubbles, don’t break them by stirring, unless 3’ou wish to keep up the game of cross purposes mdefinitel3\ Always let the last motion, before turning into the pans, be one of quick, vigorous »’ except in those receipts where folding instead of beating is indicated. The Boston Cook Book 35 Table of Average Cost of Material used in Cooking. 1 cup of flour or meal . . $0.01 1 pound of spaghetti $0.16 1 “ sugar .... .06 1 “ cornstarch . .10 1 “ butter .... .20 1 can of tomatoes . . .15 1 egg .03 1 “ salmon . , . .18 1 cup of molasses . . . .05 1 “ lobster . . . .15 1 “ milk .02 1 “ devilled ham anc tongue .30 1 tablespoonful of wine .02 1 tumbler of jelly . . .35 1 “ “ brandy .04 1 jar of marmalade . . .25 1 teaspoonful of vanilla . .02 1 pound of tea . . . .75 1 “ “ spice . . .02 1 “ coffee . . .38 1 “ “ soda, and 2 1 “ chocolate . .40 teaspoonfuls of cream-tartar .02 i “ nutmeg . . .32 1 tablespoonful of butter . .03 i “ mace . . . .60 Butter size of an egg . . .05 i “ cloves, cassia .15 1 tablespoonful of olive oil .02 i “ ginger . . .10 2 tablespoonfuls of coffee . .05 i “ mustard . . .12 2 teaspoonfuls of tea . . .01 X 4r “ herbs, ground .10 1 quart of milkman’s cream .25 Package of whole herbs 8 1 “ Deerfoot cream .60 1 pound of cheese . . .18 1 box of gelatine .... .16 1 “ Parmesan cheese .50 1 lemon 1 peck of potatoes . . .25 1 orange 1 “ apples . . . .50 1 pound of raisins . . . 18 1 quart of onions . . .10 1 “ currants . . . .10 1 carrot 1 “ citron . . . .18 1 turnip .05 1 “ crackers . . .10 1 bunch of celerv . . .20 1 tapioca . . . .07 1 handful of parsley .05 1 “ rice .... .00 1 bunch of watercresses .06 1 “ macaroni . . .18 1 head of lettuce . . . .10 These prices are for the best materials, and are esti- mated for the season, from October to June, when butter and eggs are higher than during the summer. 36 The Boston Cook Book, BREAD AND BREAD MAKING-. Importance of Bread. — Bread is one of the earliest, the most generally used, and the most important forms of food adopted mankind. Nothing in the whole range of domestic life more affects the health and happiness of the family than the qiialitj’ of its daily bread. With good bread, the plainest meal is a feast in itself; without it, the most elaboratel}" prepared and elegantly served menu is unsatisfactoiy. Bread-making is at once the easiest and the most difficult branch of culinary science, — easy, if onlj- sufiicient inter- est be taken to master a few elementary principles and to follow' them alwa3's, using the judgment of the best authorities, until experience furnishes a sulficient guide ; difficult, if there be an^' neglect to use proper care and materials. It should be regarded as one of the highest accomplishments ; and if one tenth part of the interest, time, and thought w'hich are devoted to cake and pastry and fancy cooking were spent upon this most important article of food, the presence of good bread upon our tables would be invariabl}’ secured. Origin and Meaning of Bread.** — Bread is made from a variet}' of substances, — roots, fruits, and the bark of trees ; but more generally* from certain grains. The word bread is derived from the verb to hratj., or pound., expressive of the old method of preparing the grain. Bread is therefore made of something brayed, as brayed wheat or brayed corn. But these bra3*ed or ground materials are not prop- erl3' bread until the\’ are mixed or moistened with water. Then the bra3'cd grain becomes dough., from a word mean- ing to wet., or moisten. In primitive times this wetted meal or dough was baked at once in hot ashes, and made 37 The Boston Cook Book, a firm, compact bread, exceedingly hard of digestion. Accidentally some one discovered that hy letting the dough stand till it had fermented, and then mixing it with new dough, it raised, or lifted, the whole mass, and made it lighter and more porous. Thus we have our word loaf, from Ufian, to raise, or lift up. The old dough — or leaven, as it is called — lifts up the dough. The raised mass is held in place by the heat in baking, and becomes the loaf of raised bread. Bread made from — Bread is made principally from wheat flour. Rye and corn meal are sometimes used, but better results are obtained when there is a mixture of wheat with one or more of these grains. Rye used alone makes a close, moist, stick^^ bread ; while corn meal alone makes too diy and crumbly a loaf. Wheat is an annual gi’ass of unknown origin, cultivated more extensively in the Northern hemisphere. There are over one hundred and fifty varieties of wheat. They are classified as red or white, in reference to the color of the grains; as winter or summer, — winter wheat being sown in the autumn, and summer wheat in the spring ; as soft or hard, — soft wheat being tender and flouiy or starchy, and hard wheat being tough, firm, and containing more gluten. Chemical Composition of Wheat. — Wheat is the only grain which contains gluten in the proper proportion and of the desired quality essential to the making of light, spongy bread. It contains all the elements necessary for the growth of the body ; but, to meet all the requirements of nutrition, the whole of the grain, with the exception of the outer husk, should be used. AVheat has several layers of bran coats, the outer one of which is almost wholly pure silica and is perfectly indigestible. Underneath this Fig. 1. Grain of wheat, showing enter coat of silex and woody fibre. t 38 The Boston Cook Book, Fio. 2. Grain of wheat with bran coat removed. husk lie the inner bran coats, containing gluten, a dark sub- stance which is the nitrogenous or flesh-forming element, the phosphates and other min- eral matters which help to make up the bony parts of the bod}^ and the oil which gives the characteristic odor to wheat grains. The cen- tre, or heart, of the grain consists of cells filled with starch, a fine, white, mealy powder, which has little value as food except as a heat producer. There is also a small amount of gluten dif- fused among the starch cells. For convenience, these dif- ferent parts of the wheat will be designated as bran, or the outer husk ; gluten, or the inner bran coats ; and starch, or the heart of the wheat. The proportion and quality of the gluten and starch in different kinds of wheat vary according to the climate and soil in which they are grown. They are also affected hy the method of grinding the grain. Wheat grown in Southern or warm climates, and in the intense, though short, summer of our own Northwest, contains more nitrogen than that grown in cold, damp climates. It loses more water by evaporation, and consequently the seed is smaller and harder. In some varieties of wheat the outer husk is thin and smooth, and peels off readil}'’ under the stones. In others, it is thick and rough, and adheres closely to the kernel. In some, it is light-colored or brittle ; in others, dark-colored or tough. The husk}^ portion of wheat is about fourteen or sixteen per cent of the whole weight. The gluten of wheat is a gra,y, tough, elastic substance, consisting chiefly of vegetable fibriue. It can be examined Fio. 3. Grain of wheat magnified, A is the bran ; B the gluten ; C the starch. The Boston Cook Book. 39 easily by making a dough of flour and water, and working it on a sieve under a stream of water. The water will carry the starch, sugar, gum, and mineral matters into the pan below, leaving a lump of gluten on the sieve. It closely resembles a piece of animal skin, and, when dried, has a glue-like appearance ; hence its name, gluten. The proportion of gluten varies from eleven to fifteen per cent. This tough, elastic qualit}^ of the gluten determines the quality of the flour. The more gluten and the tougher or stronger it is, the better the flour. The gluten of good flour will swell to four or five times its original bulk ; while that of poor flour does not swell, but becomes wateiy and stick}' , and sometimes gives off a disagreeable odor, owing to the deterioration of the fatty or oily element. Preparing the Flour. St. Louis Process. — There are several methods of con- verting wheat into flour. One is by grinding between two horizontal stones, the upper one revolving, and the lower one stationary. The surface of the stones presents an infinite number of minute cutting edges. The upper stone IS convex, the lower one concave ; but instead of fitting perfectly, they approach closer together from the eentre outward, so that, as the grain is poured into an opening in the upper stone, it is at first rather coarsely crushed, and then cut finer and finer, as it is carried to the circumfer- ence by the centrifugal force. As the grain leaves the stones, the outer husk has been least affected ; the tough, coherent gluten is divided minutely, while the brittle starch, which forms two thirds of the grain, is completely crushed. The miller then divides these products, by sifting or bolt- ing, into coarse Jlour., and hran. The bran should be discarded as utterly useless for human food ; but it is often mixed with an inferior quality of fine flour, and sold as Graham flour. It was at one time considered valuable as a food for those suffering from constipation, chiefly on account of its coarseness ; but 40 The Boston Cook Book, science has shown us recently that minute points of glass (and bran is nothing else) are not Nature’s best agents in removing effete matters from the system. All of the so- called Graham flour made by this process should be sifted before using. The coarse flour will vary in quality, according as it has more or less of the outer bran mixed with it. In the soft wheats the husk peels off* readil}^ under the stones, and is easily separated b}’ bolting ; and as these soft varieties contain the smallest proportion of gluten, the^' yield a coarse flour, containing only an average amount of gluten, and the whitest fine- flour. But in the hard, flinty wheats, this outer husk clings so closely that ranch of it is ground up finely with the flour, giving it a dark color. This flour, as it contains a large proportion of gluten, would be more nutritious were it not that much of the gluten adheres to the hulls, and is lost b}' sifting them out, and much of the fine, flint}^ bran is retained in the flour, which makes it irritating and indigestible. The qualit\' of \hQ fine flour depends upon the qualitj’^ of the wheat, in the first place ; also upon the number of sift- ings, being richer in gluten the less it is sifted ; and upon the way in which it is stored. The process of grinding with the stones heats the flour ; and as it is often thrust upon the market without being properl}" cooled and dried, it spoils very rapidly. Flour made b}" this process of grinding is called the St. Louis, or old-process flour. When made of the very best qualit}" of grain and carefully pre- pared, it makes a sweet, nutritious bread, and is excellent in cake and pastiy. It is often designated pastry flour. Haxall Process. — Another method of making flour is b}’ the new, or Haxall process, so called from the name of the inventor. B}" this process the outer husk is first re- moved, or decorticated ; then the cleaned grain is cut by a 83’stem of knives, which reduces it to a fine powder with- out the injurious effects of heating. This flour has a slightly gTanular consistcnc}’, owing to the i)rescnce of minute particles of hard, flinty cluten. It is usually made The Boston Cook Book. 41 from the best quality of wheat, and keeps well. It is con- sidered by man}’ as the best flour for bread, as it makes a whiter, nicer-looking loaf. Haxall flour swells more than that made by the old process, as it contains more of the gluten ; the same measure making a greater quantity of bread than the St. Louis flour. It is, therefore, cheaper in the end, though costing more per barrel. By repeated siftings, this flour loses its gluten, as does that made by the St. Louis process, and consequently is then inferior as a food. But we can supply by other flours and other food what this flour lacks in nutritious qualities ; and until the popular taste is educated to demand the amount of nutri- ment contained in bread rather than the whiteness of it, as a test of its qualit}’, it is well to make our fine, white bread from this, which is the best flour, and have it as nearly perfect as possible. There have been many variations of the Haxall process, and all are included under the term neio-process Jiour. Minnesota. — The Minnesota, or patent-process, flour is now considered one of the best grades. The Washburn, Pillsbury, and man}* other mills located in Minneapolis are the largest flour-mills in the world, and produce an excel- lent quality of flour, in which a large proportion of the gluten is retained. This Minnesota flour is made from carefull}^ selected wheat grown in the Red River region, the best wheat-growing section in America. The first step in the process is the breaking off of the germinal point of each grain by what are called ending stones. Tlien it is sent through corrugated iron rollers, having shallow grooves cut spirally upon them, with rounded ridges between, and the opposing rollers grooved in an opposite direction. The grains are crushed (not ground) ; the starchy parts, or middlings, being quite finely powdered and easily separa- ted from the bran or tailings. After this separation the middlings are passed through ten bolting-cloths, and then through other and finer corrugated machines, and made into the various grades of fine, superfine^ and fancy flours. 42 The Boston Cook Book. Health-Food Flour. — A still better method of convert- ing wheat into flour, and one which is indorsed b}’ leading scientists and physicians, has been recently introduced by the Health Food Company of New York. Oul}’ the choicest kinds of wheat are used. The outer husk is first removed by moistening the grain, and subjecting it to a gentle rub- bing by what is termed the “attrition process.” This softens the woody fibre of the outer bran, which is easily removed by sifting, but does not affect the hard gluten coats. The grains are dried, then pulverized into various grades b}- a compressed cold-air blast, which dashes the grains into atoms with tremendous force. This is called whole-wheat flour, the name indicating that the whole of the gluten, or nutritive part of the flour, is retained. It is not sifted like other flours, but pulverized into all the varieties of crushed wheat., coarse granulated and fine granulated wheat; each variet}', even the finest flour, containing all that is valuable as food. Bread made with this flour has been found, after repeated trial, to be sweet and agreeable to the taste, light and spongy in texture, with none of the objec- tionable features of Graham bread, and answering fully all the demands of perfect nutrition. Cheap inferior Graham flour, made of poor flour mixed with bran, is worse than no food at all. Any flour con- taining much of the indigestible bran causes irritation of the digestive organs ; all the food is hurried through the alimentary canal before digestion is complete or all the nutriment can be absorbed, and thus is neither economical nor healthful. Fine flour containing the most gluten is the most nutritious, because it is all digested, and the loss of albuminous material can be supplied from other sources. The Arlington, the Franklin, and some other brands of whole-wheat flour, are highly indorsed by those familiar with them. The Tests of Good Flour. The first requisite in making good bread is to use good flour. Good flour should not be pure white in color, but The Boston Cook Book. 43 of a creamy, yellowish-white shade. If it feel damp, clamni}', or sticky, and gradually form into lumps or cakes, it is not the best. Good flour holds together in a mass, when squeezed the hand, and retains the impres- sion of the fingers, and even the marks of the skin, much longer than poor flour ; when made into a dough, it is elastic, eas}^ to be kneaded, will stay in a round puff}' shape, and will take up a large amount of water : while poor flour will be sticky, flatten, or spread itself over the board, and will never seem to be stiff enough to be handled, no matter how much flour is used. Haxall flour has a fine granular consistenc}'’, and runs easily through the sieve or the fingers like fine meal ; while good St. Louis flour feels soft and oily. It is extravagant to buy poor or even doubtful flour. But, should it have every appearance of being good flour, and 3-et not make good bread, do not condemn the flour without a fair trial ; and be sure the fault is nowhere else. Eveiy experienced cook has her own tests for flour, and some of them are amusing, if not reliable. The best way is to buy a small quantity at first, and make it into dough ; then, if satisfactory, purchase whatever amount is re- quired, and buy this same brand as long as it proves of uniform quality. The names given to flour are not a sure criterion of the quality. The flour may come from the same growth of wheat, and be ground in the same manner and at the same mill, and }’et the miller or the wholesale dealers will brand it differently. And the same brand will var}”^ in quality from year to year. Some of the varieties sold in Boston, and known to be good by personal trial, are Archibald’s Extra, Washburn’s, Spaulding, Corrugated, ra3dor’s Best, Brown’s Best, Marguerite, etc. ; the same flour may be known in other cities under different names, there are others equally good, and every ^^ear some new brand is announced. It is estimated that one barrel of flour will last one person one }*ear ; which gives a rule of proportion by which to buy. Most good housekeepers agree that flour is not improved by long keeping, though 44 The Boston Cook Book, flour dealers think differentlj'. Flour should be kept in a cool, dr}' place, as the least dampness causes it to absorb moisture ; the gluten loses its tenacity, becomes sticky, and the bread made from it is coarser and less lisht. For small families it is better to buy whole-wheat flour by the bag or half-barrel ; Haxall, for bread, by, the bar- rel ; and the best St. Louis flour for cake and pastry, by the bag, as a much smaller proportion is needed (or should be) for these indigestibles, than for the “ staff of life.” Bread, Fermented and Unfermented. Now, having discussed the subject of the flour, the next step in order is the different ways of making it into bread. These may all be included under two divisions, — those made by fermentation, and those without fermentation. Fermentation^ what is it? — Fermentation is that change in organic substances by which their sugar, starch, gluten, etc., are decomposed or recombined into new compounds. This change may be spontaneous under favorable condi- tions of air, moisture, and warmth ; or it ma}’’ be hastened b}’’ the presence of a ferment. K ferment is some albu- minous substance in a state of decomposition, and, when introduced into an}’^ other albuminous substance, in how- ever minute a quantity, causes a change which pervades the whole mass. These fermenting substances are in great variet}’, and the germs of some of them are always present in the air. There are different kinds of fermentation. The lactic fermentation is the change in milk when it sours. The casein, or albuminous part of the milk, by exposure to the air and warmth, begins to decompose, becomes a ferment, and changes the sugar of the milk into an acid called lactic acid. This reacts upon the remainder of the milk, as any acid would, and causes it to coagulate or harden, and gives it a sour taste. The alcoholic fermentation is that which is produced in substances rich in sugar or starch, as the fruits and grains from which wines and beer are made. Some of these fer- The Boston Cook Book. 45 ment germs are present in the juice of grapes ; and under the influence of air, moisture, and warmth, the}^ seize upon the sugar already present in the natural fruit juices, and any that may be added, and convert it into carbonic acid gas and alcohol. In the grains, a portion of the gluten ferments and changes the starch into sugar, and then the sugar into carbonic acid and alcohol. In con- verting the starch into sugar there is no change evident to the eye ; but as soon as the sugar is decomposed into alco- hol and carbonic acid gas, large bubbles of gas appear, which swell the whole mass. Acetic fermentation is caused by allowing alcoholic fer- mentation to go on beyond a certain limit, or in a tem- perature above 90°. A familiar illustration of this is the change of wine or cider into vinegar. Now, bread-dough contains gluten, sugar, and starch ; and if the dough be kept warm for a certain time, lactic fermentation will be developed spontaneously., and the bread made from such dough will be sour and heav}'. Alco- holic fermentation can also be spontaneously produced in dough, b}' making first a batter (as the semi-fluid state is more favorable to rapid chemical change), and subject- ing it to a temperature of 110° for five or six hours ; then, adding more flour, allowing it to rise again, and then baking it. Bread made in this way is called salt or milk- rising's bread. But it does not keep well, and is not gen- erally liked. It is not alwa5's convenient to wait for dough to be raised in this manner, so we hasten the process b}' the addition of some active ferment. Leaven, or a piece of old dough, left to sour, and then mixed with the new dough was formerh' used ; this produced lactic as well as alcoholid fermentation, and though the bread was light and spongy in texture, it had an unpleasant sour taste. But since the chemistr}’- of yeast fermentation has been under- stood, yeast has come to be considered the best ferment for producing alcoholic fermentation in bread rapidly, and with no objectionable result. 46 The Boston Cook Book. Yeast, what is — Yeast is a plant or genn of the fungus tribe. Under the microscope it is found to consist of numberless minute rounded or oval bodies which are true vegetable cells. Yeast is therefore one of the simplest brane, containing a liquid or sap. The}'^ grow or expand from the minutest micro- scopic points, and seem to bud off from each other and multiply into many millions to the cubic inch. These cells are easily propagated in an^’ medium where they find congenial food, particularly in the juice of grapes. If grape-juice be filtered and left to stand in a warm place two or three hours, it becomes first cloudy, then thick, and gives off bubbles of gas, showing there has been some change in its composition. In a short time a grayish- yellow froth, or la3^er of 3'east cells, collects on the surface. “ Whether the germs or spores of the yeast plant exist alread}' in the juices of the living grape, or whether thev are always fioating in the air, and cling to the exterior of the fruit, and onl}- become mixed with the juice in the wine- press, is not known ; ” neither is it known just how they decompose the sugar of the grape. But it is enough for our purpose to know that the}' grow in the juice and ex- pand there, and that an active ferment ma}’ be dissolved out of these 3’east cells, sufficient to cause alcoholic fermentation. The natural development of 3’east through the agenc}- of plants is too slow and inconvenient a process to rely upon ; therefore we manufacture it from various substances rich in starch and sugar. Brewer’s j’east is made from malt, or sprouting grain, usually barley ; home-made j^east, from flour and potatoes. Yeast Bread the Result of Chemical Changes. — Bread properly made with 3'east undergoes certain chemical changes which render it lighter, more porous, more pleas- Fio. 4. Yeast Plant and smallest of vegetable organisms. Each little cell consists of an en- veloping skin or mem- The Boston Cook Book. 47 ant to the taste, and more healthful, because more easily digested, and more convenient for general use. It is gen- erally recommended by scientific and medical men as the best form of bread. Wheat contains a larger percentage of starch than of any- thing else. We learn, in the chapter on Digestion, that starch as such is not absorbed into the human system. It must first be transformed into sugar. All starch that is not changed into sugar b}^ the process of cooking or before our food is eaten, is so changed b^^ the ptyalin^ or ferment of the saliva, and the ferment of the pancreatic fluid. Any process which produces this change for us makes our food more digestible. “Powdered alum will dissolve in water sooner than a ciystal of alum.” Any fluid will penetrate more easih’ through a sponge than through putty, and the salivary and gastric fluids are no exception to this rule. Wheat starch in its natural state is close and compact ; and bread made simply with flour and water, and baked at once, will be close, diT, and difficult to masticate and digest. Good bread should be sufficiently soft to be easily crushed in the mouth, and of such a light, spongy texture that all the starch cells may be ruptured, and the greatest possible amount of surface be presented to the action of the diges- tive fluids. To obtain these qualities in bread, we try to expand the dough as much as possible without destroying its natural sweetness. Owing to the peculiar elasticity and tenacit}’ of the wheat gluten, this is very easily accom- plished by alcoholic fermentation. The flour is moistened with some warm liquid, yeast and salt are added, and it is then exposed for some hours to a temperature of about 70°. The 3’east changes some of the starch of the flour into sugar, and the sugar into alcohol and carbonic acid gas. This gas, being lighter than the dough, rises, and, in its efforts to escape, expands the elastic, glutinous dough into a mass two or three times its original bulk. The toughness or elasticity of the gluten prevents the gas from escaping ; and when this expansion has reached the desired limit, — that is, before the alcoholic fermentation has changed 48 The Boston Cook Book. to the acetic and soured the dough, or the tough, glutinous walls of the air cells are broken, — we cheek the forma- tion of gas, and kill the ferment by baking the dough in a hot oven. The alcohol escapes into the oven ; some of the starch is changed into gum, and forms the crust ; and the rapid decomposition, produced by the intense heat, causes the crust to assume a brown color. Unfermented Bread. — This is made without yeast ; but the principle is the same as in fermented bread, namely, the liberation of gas within the dough. The gas escapes quickh*, and all such bread must be baked as soon as possible after mixing. There are no chemical changes in the starch or sugar ; the elastic, glutinous dough is simpl}’ expanded by the gas. The starch cells are ruptured b}' the intense heat in baking ; but if the gas bubbles burst before the heat has fixed the gluten wall, the bread will be heav}*. This gas is produced in the bread dough in various waj's : 1st. By the gas in very cold water, and the air obtained by vig- orous beating ; 2d. the introduction of water under pressure, highly charged with gas. The first method is only suitable for mixtures which are to be baked quickly in a very hot oven, and eaten immediate!}*, like gems, puffs, etc. The latter method produces what is known as aerated bread, making a light, sweet, spongy loaf; but it is not practicable for home use. 3d. The usual method ^ is by some gas-generating compound, as tiie union of an acid and an alkali ; usually soda, with either sour milk, cream of tartar, or muriatic acid. This is a convenient form adopted by many people who think it hard work to make yeast bread. When the chemicals used are pure, and in such a proportion that the}* neutralize each other, and leave only Rochelle salt as a residue, this bread, if used only occasionall}*, is harmless. But Rochelle salt is a medicine, not a nutritive food ; and “ those who are well do not need the disturbing influence of a medicine in their daily bread,” and those who are ill do not often need this particular form of medicine. Through ignorance or care- lessness this bread is often made so that there is an excess 49 The Boston Cook Book. of alkali or a residue of alum ; and then, if used habitual 1}^, it is injurious, and to some extent poisonous. It is con- venient to know how to make it well in an emergency, and it helps make variety. It is best, when freshly baked, in the form of small biscuit rather than in loaves, and is not as indig'estible, when eaten hot, as hot ^^east biead. IBut for a bread for o^eneral use, for bread that will keep well, for bread that will leave a sweet, clean taste in the mouth, for bread that will yield the most in bulk from a given amount of flour, for bread for promoting health, there is nothing equal to perfect, home-made jeast bread. It is not so difficult a task to make perfect bread as most young housekeepers imagine, or old housekeepers assert. It is not impossible for a }'oung girl to succeed as well in her first attempt in this art as the mature housekeeper who counts her loaves b}' the thousand, provided she learns the best wa}’ of making it, and uses a reasonable amount of common-sense. The Best Kinds of Yeast. Who made the first yeast? and how does a 3'oung house- keeper start her own, when awa}' fi’om stores or friends, where she can neither bu}* nor borrow V are questions often asked. Simply make a thin batter wdth flour and water, and let it stand in a warm place till it ferments, and is full of bubbles. A pint of this ferment is equal to one cup of old 3'cast in starting the new'. There are three kinds of 3'east in general use, — the the compressed., and the liquid., — each of which has its peculiar merits. Dry yeast cakes ^ such as the “National” or “Twin Brothers,” are inexpensive, alwa3's readN* to use, and gen- erall3’ liked 1)3* those who care more for econom3* of time and trouble than for the qualit3' of their bread. Compressed yeast cukes., like the “ Vienna” or “ Fleisch- mann’s,” are excellent, wdien perfecth* fresh ; the best form of yeast where bread is made in large quantities. But for a small family, where onl3’ a quarter of a cake is used per- 4 50 The Boston Cook Book, haps twice a week, or for those living at a distance from the stores, they are inconvenient, expensive, and w'aste- ful. They have almost entirely taken the place of baker’s yeast. As to which is best of the man}’ varieties of home-made yeast, who shall decide when housekeepers disagree? Every good cook thinks her way the best. Tliey are all good that make good bread ; the only special advantage of one over another being the greater ease in making or the length of time it will keep good. People who are inclined to shirk think it a deal of trouble to make veast of anv »» V kind ; but there are none so independent as those who make their own yeast. The simplest form of liquid yeast is made with flour, salt, and boiling hop water. To this many add potatoes and a little sugar, and some add ginger. Chemists say that the potato is the best form of starch for the growth of yeast. Potato yeast rises more rapidly, and keeps longer without souring, than flour yeast ; bread made from it is sweet, light, and does not dry quickly. As to the comparative merits of grated raw potato or boiled potato, those who have used them both ways with equally good results think the grated potato has the advantage of being made in much less time. The really essential points are that the water shall be boiling., so that all the cells of the flour or potato may be ruptured. The salt and sugar assist in the fermentation, and the hops and ginger serve to prevent the yeast from souring by checking the fermentation before all tlie sugar is converted into alcohol ; they also give it an agreeably pungent taste, if not used in too large quantities. Old potatoes are better than new for yeast, because they con- tain more sugar. Porcelain or granite kettles for boiling the hops and potatoes, and earthen bowls and wooden spoons for mixing, are best, as iron and tin cause the yeast to turn dark-colored! The yeast for starting must be fresh and lively, and never added till the boiling mixture has become lukewarm, The Boston Cook Book. 51 or the plant will be killed.' It must be kept warm, and stirred several times while rising, and the next day put away in well-scalded glass jars. Keep it in a cool place ; freezing or intense heat will kill the yeast plant. Reserve a portion for the next rising in a small jar by itself, as opening the jar often causes the yeast to lose its strength. Always shake or stir well before using. Yeast is good when it is foam}^ or full of beads, has a brisk, pungent odor, and a good deal of snap or vim ; it is poor when it has an acid odor, and looks waterj' or has a thin film over the top. Making the Dough. Flour is moistened, or made into dough, with water or with milk. This softens the gluten and starch, dissolves the sugar, and cements all the particles together. Those who prefer water claim that water bread is cheaper, has more of the natural sweet taste of the wheat, and will keep longer ; while those in favor of using milk are equally sure that milk bread is more nutritious, more tender, more agreeable to the taste and the e3'e, more easily made, and with proper care will keep sweet and moist longer. Proportion. — The proportion of liquid and flour varies both with the flour and the liquid. Bread made of St. Louis flour, or mixed with water, takes more flour to make the same amount, than when made of Haxall flour, or mixed with milk. The general rule is one scant measure of liquid, including the 3’east, to three full measures of flour. Water bread will need about one cupful more ; and milk bread, or whole-wheat bread, from one half to one cupful less of flour. Dough which is to be kneaded, or rolled and cut into special shapes, should be stiffer than that which is not kneaded, or is to be made into loaves ; but in all cases it should bo mixed just as soft as can be handled easily without sticking, and just as little extra flour as possible should be used. If the dough be too stiff, make several deep incisions, and work in a little more liquid. The proportion of yeast is half a cupful of fresh home- 52 The Boston Cook Book, made yeast to a pint of liquid: a little less in warm weatlier ; or when mixed at night, when the dough has a longer time to rise ; or when made with a “ sponge,” or with whole- wheat Hour, as the extra amount of gluten in this flour causes it to ferment more rapidly'. A larger amount of yeast can be used when it is necessary to make bread in a limited time ; but great care must be hiken not to use enough to leave an unpleasant yeasty taste in the bread. With compressed yeast, dissolve one fourth of a cake in half a cupful of lukewann water^ and use as home- made yeast. It will dissolve in one tablespoonful of water ; but it is important to have the half-cupful, that the propor- tion of liquid rna}^ be the same. Manner of Mixing. — Many people prefer to measure the flour, and add enough of the liquid to make it the desired consistency. Tlie better wa\' is to measure the liquid, and add flour, using more or less according to the qualit}' of the flour, as the measure of the liquid determines the size of the loaf. All the flour may be added at first, and the dough raised in a mass ; or a drop batter may be made with about half the flour, and when this has well risen, the re- mainder of the flour may be added, and the whole allowed to ri§e again. The latter method is preferable when it is inconvenient to knead at the first mixing, as is often the case in the evening, or when there is anj^ doubt about the qualit}’ of the 3’east, as, if the yeast will not raise three cups of flour, it certainly will not raise six. This method is advisable, also, when it is necessary to hasten the pro- cess of bread-making. Dough made by “setting a sponge,” as this wav is called, requires less yeast, the fer- mentation being more rapid in a batter than in a stiff dough ; and this fermented batter acts like a double portion of yeast on the fresh flour, raising it very quicklj*. It is the best way of making bread with milk in the summer, as it ma}’ be mixed early in the morning and baked by noon ; and as it may be easily watched, it need not become sour. The question of mixing at night or in the morning is one which every housekeeper can best answer for herself. The Boston Cook Book. 53 Mail}’ old receipts read, ‘‘Make a hole in the flour, add the yeast, and then pour in the liquid.” If the 3'east be added to the milk or water, and well mixed with it, and the flour then stirred thoroughly into this liquid mixtiu'e, the 3 east will be more evenly distributed through the dough, and less kneading will be required than when made by tlie old method. The other ingi’edients added to the dough are salt and sugar, in the proportion of one even teaspoonf ul of salt and one even tahlespoonfil of sugar to three pints of flour, using a little less salt if butter is added, and a little more with compi’essed 3’east, as that is not as salt as home-made 3’east, and doubling the amount of sugar when using whole- wheat flour. Sugar in Bread. — Man^" object to the use of sugar in bread. Flour in its natural state contains sugar ; this sugar is changed in fermentation. Just enough sugar to restore the natural sweetness, but not enough to give a real!}’ sweet taste, is necessaiy in fermented bread. Potatoes. — Potatoes are sometimes added to bread dough. AVhere the flour is of an inferior quality, the bread is very much improved by their use ; but with good flour they are unnecessary, and the use of them increases the labor of making bread. Shortening. — Whether bread shall be “ shortened or not shortened,” is another question on which there is great diversity of opinion. Those who disapprove of fat of any kind in bread claim that we eat fat enough in other forms of food, and also that the same crisp tenderness of tex- ture may be produced by skilful kneading. Bread made with new or unskimmed milk, and kneaded well, requires no other shortening ; but water bread, when shortened, is made more tender, and therefore is more easil}'^ pene- trated by the digestive fluids. The latest decision of the best ph3’sicians is that fat is absolutel3’ necessary as an element of food, and it is often given as a remed3’’ for some diseases. The proportion which one person would receive from one tablespoonful of butter, or drippings, or 54 The Boston Cook Book, laid, in two loaves of bread would not harm the most deli- cate stomach. Butter tastes best ; drippings are cheap- est. Laid has foi its chief merit that ol making whiter bread than either of the others. The shortening may be rubbed into the flour, or, better still, melted in the warm liquid. Too much shortening clogs the glutinous cell- walls, and therefore checks the rising. Rolls, rusks, and buns, which are usually shortened more than loaf bread, should have the butter added at the last kneading. The bread should be mixed in a deep stone-china or granite bowl ; wooden bowls are difficult to keep sweet and clean. Brown earthenware is awkw'ard in shape and clumsy to handle, while tinware, being a better conductor than china, lets the heat within the mass escape, and the tin rubs off from the constant friction. Use a wooden spoon, or a wooden-handled iron spoon, or a broad-bladed knife. Kneading the Dough. — Kneading is the process of press- ing or working the dough in such a manner that the flour and water ma}" be thoroughl}' mixed, and the 3'easfc be so evenly' distributed that the fermentation may be equal through the whole mass. It may be done bj’ cutting or chopping, either with the hand or machiner}' ; but there is nothing that gives the fine, even grain to bread so well as hand-kneading ; and no surer test of the proper consist- enc}' of dough than that given b}' the sense of touch. There are some kinds of milk bread and rolls which are ver}'' good without it ; but water bread should always be kneaded. It is often done in the mixing-bowl, bj’ draw- ing the dough over from the side and pressing it down in the centre, turning the bowl with the other hand ; but it is more effectuall3’ accomplished on a bread-board. In Spain the bakers knead the bread with such force that the palms of the hands and the second joints of the fingers are covered with cprns ; but strength and force are not so essential to good kneading as a peculiar and dexterous handling of the dough. The most approved process is the follow inints of 'water ^ in a granite or porcelain kettle, and strain it into the potato and flour. Or the flour may be omitted, using more potato or less water. Man}’ think it an improvement to mix one even teaspoonful of sifted ginger with the flour, sugar, and salt. The hops and ginger will make the yeast dark-colored, but it will not be perceptible in the bread. Boiled Potato Yeast. {Mrs. Toione's Matilda.') Three large., old potatoes., pared, soaked, and boiled until broken in small pieces ; half a cup of loose hops boiled in one quart of water. Drain and mash the potatoes ; add the hop water and enough more hot water to make two quarts. Strain, rubbing all the potato through, and put it on to boil. AVlien boiling, add three fourths of a cup of flour., w'hich has l)een wet to a smooth paste in cold water, and three quarters of a cup of sugar. Boil five minutes, stirring well ; let it cool ; add three fourths of a cup of yeast ; and, when well risen, add one fourth of a cup of salt. Keep in a covered stone jar in a cool cellar. Bread made with this yeast will not sour even in the hottest weather. Hop Yeast. Steep half a cup of loose hops in one quart of boiling water., in a granite kettle, five minutes. Mix one cup of flour., one fourth of a cup of sugar., and one tablespoon fal of salt. Strain the hop liquor, and pour it boiling into the flour mixture. Boil one minute, or till thick. When cooled, add one cup of yeast. Water Bread. 2 quarts sifted (ncw-process) flour. 1 teaspoonful salt. 1 tablespoonful su2 saltspoonful pepper. Cook the macaroni in boiling salted water, about half an hour, or until tender ; drain, pour cold water through it, to keep it from sticking together. Lay the sticks close together on a board, and divide them into eighth-inch pieces, making tiny rings, or cut them into half-inch pieces. There should be about a pint of macaroni for a quart of stock. Bring the stock to a boil ; add the maca- roni, the salt, and the pepper ; then pour all into the tureen. Vermicelli Soup. 1 quart stock. 1 teaspoonful salt. )4, cup vermicelli. saltspoonful pepper. The vermicelli may be broken or not, as 3^ou please. Cook about ten minutes in boiling salted water. Drain, put it in the tureen, and pour over it the boiling stock. Spaghetti and Italian Paste may be used in the same way. Rice, Tapioca, Sago, or Barley Soup. 1 quart stock. 1 teaspoonful salt. 2 tablespoonfuls either rice, bar- 3^ saltspoonful pepper, ley, tapioca, or sago. Wash the grains, and cook until tender in boiling salted water ; then add them to the boiling stock. Serve with croutons. Barle}" should be soaked one hour, and boiled two hours or more. Vegetables and macaroni are better with beef stock ; and rice, tapioca, and barlc3’' with mutton or chicken stock. Tomato Soup with Stock. 1 quart stock. 1 can tomatoes. 1 teaspoonful sugar. 1 teaspoonful salt. 1 saltspoonful pepper. Stew the tomatoes until soft enough to strain. Rub all but the seeds through the strainer. Add the sugar, salt. 134 The Boston Cook Book. and pepper. Add all to the boiling stock. Serye with croutons. Carrot, or Crecy Soup. 1 quart rich, brown stock. 1 pint carrot. 1 teaspoonful sugar. 1 teaspoonful salt. 3^ saltspoonful pepper. 1 small onion, sliced. Wash and scrape the carrot; shave off in thin slices a pint of the outer part. Do not use the 3'ellow centre. Cook the carrot with the onion in boiling salted water to cover, till veiy tender. Rub the caiTot through a squash strainer. Add the stock and heat again. Add the sugar, salt, and pepper, and when hot serve immediately with croutons. Mixed Vegetable Soup. 1 quart stock. 1 quart boiling water. 1 cup each chopped onion, carrot, and celery. cup each chopped turnip, pars- nip, and cabbage. 1 cup strained tomatoes. 1 tablespoonful chopped parsley. 1 teaspoonful sugar. 1 teaspoonful salt. 1 saltspoonful pepper. Use all or as many varieties of vegetables as 3^ou wish, or if 3’ou have only a few, add macaroni, rice, or barle}*, having in all half the amount of vegetables that 3’ou have of liquid. Chop all the vegetables fine. Cabbage, cauli- flower, parsnip, potatoes, or onions should be parboiled five minutes, and drained carefully'. Fiy the onions and car- rot ; then put all with the water and stock, and simmer until tender. Add the seasoning. Serve without strain- ing. Alwa^’S add sugar to all mixed vegetable soups. The next division of soups includes those which are thickened in various wa}'s, and in which the meat is sensed with the soup ; also White Soups, and the materials to be served with soups. Caramel, for coloring Soups, etc. Melt one cup of sugar (either brown or white) with one tablespoonful of water in a frying-pan. Stir until it becomes Th^ Boston Cook Book, 135 of a dark brown color. Add one cup of boiling water; sim- mer ten minutes, and bottle when cool. This should alwa3*s be kept on hand, as it is useful for man}’ purposes. It gives a rich, dark color to soups, coffee, and jell}’ ; is more wholesome than browned butter in sauces, and is delicious as a flavoring in custards and pudding sauces. Glaze. Glaze is simply clear stock boiled down to one fourth of its original amount. Put two quarts of rich, strong stock into a saucepan, and boil it uncovered until reduced to one pint. It should have a gluey consistency, and will keep a month if put in a closely covered jar in a cool place. It is useful in browning meats which have not been colored by cooking, but which we wish to have the appearance of having been roasted or browned. O Thickening for Soups. Soups are thickened with flour, cornstarch, or rice flour : one tablespoonful for a quart of soup, — heaping, if flour ; scant, if rice flour or cornstarch. Flour is the cheapest, but cornstarch gives a smoother consistency. Mix the flour with a very little cold water or milk until it is a smooth paste ; then add more liquid, until it can be poured easily into the boiling soup. Remember to boil the soup fifteen or twenty minutes after the thickening is added, that there may be no raw taste of the flour. Where butter and flour are used, the butter is rubbed to a cream, mixed or braided with the flour, and then made into a paste with a little of the soup. A better way is to put the butter in a small saucepan, and when melted and bubbling stir in the flour quickly, until smooth (be careftd not to brown butter for any white soup) ; then add gradually about a cup of the hot soup, letting it boil and thicken as you add the soup. It should be thin enough to pour. In vegetable soups or purees, as soon as the hot butter and flour are blended. 136 The Boston Cook Book, they may be stirred at once into the soup. This is what is meant in many of the receipts by thickening with butter and flour which have been cooked together. The hot but- ter cooks the flour more thoroughly than it can be cooked in any other wa}*. When a brown thickening is desired, as in Mock Turtle Soup, melt the butter and let it become as brown as it will wdthout burning ; then add all the flour at once and stir quickly, that every particle of it may be moistened in the hot butter ; add the water or soup gradually. Flour that is browned while dry, either in the oven or over the fire, colors, but does not thicken. A certain amount of moisture, of either fat or water, is necessary with the heat to thoroughly swell the grains of starch in the flour. Thickened soups should be about the consist- enc}^ of good cream. Purees are thicker. Material to be served with Soup. Croutons^ or Fried Bread. No. 1. — Cut stale bread into half-inch slices, remove the crusts, and cut into half-inch cubes ; put them in a fr3dng-basket, plunge into fat hot enough to brown them while 3’ou count forty ; drain and sprinkle with salt. They ma^' be fried at anj^ time and heated in the oven just before serving. Thej^ are espe- ciall}' nice with pea and bean soup. No. 2. — Cut the bread into cubes, and brown in butter in an omelet pan ; or butter first, then cut into cubes and brown in the oven. They are best when prepared after the first receipt. Crisped Crackers. — Split butter crackers and spread with butter ; put them, the buttered side up, into a pan, and brown in a hot oven. The}’ are delicious with w’hite or vegetable soups, and in fish chowder and 03’ster stews. Egg Balls. Boil/o^per, sugar, and onion juice. Fill the cavity with the mixture, heap- ing it in the centre, and sprinkle buttered crumbs over the top. Place the tomatoes in a granite pan, and bake until the crumbs are brown. Take them up carefully with a The Boston Cook Book. 301 broad knife, and serve very hot. A small quantity of cooked meat finely chopped may be used with the crumbs. Onions. Pour boiling water over them, and remove the skins. Put them in boiling salted water. When they have boiled five minutes, change the water, and change again after ten minutes. Boil half an hour, or until tender, but not until broken. Drain oflf the water, add milk enough to cover, and cook five or ten minutes longer. Season w ith butter., salt^ and pep2^er. Serve plain or as a garnish for beef. Or omit the seasoning, and pour white sauce over them. Baked or Scalloped Onions. — Boil, and if large cut into quarters. Put into a shallow dish, cover with white sauce and buttered crumbs., and bake until the crumbs are brown. Onions are rich in flesh-forming elements, are soothing to the mucous membrane, and are otherwise medicinal. The3* impart an agreeable flavor to man^' kinds of food. Cauliflower. The leaves should be green and fresh, and the heads creamy white. When there are dark spots, the cauliflower is wilted. Pick off the outside leaves, soak in cold salted water, top downwards, for one hour, to cleanse it thor- oughl3^ Tie it in a twine bag, to prevent breaking. Cook in boiling salted water fifteen or twenty minutes, or until tender. If not boiled in a bag, remove the scum before it settles on the cauliflower. Serve in a shallow dish, and cover with a cream or TIollandaise sauce. Or add a little grated cheese., and cover with cracker crumbs moistened in melted butter., and bake until the crumbs are brown. Or when cold, serve as a salad Mayonnaise dressing. Cauliflower ma3’ be cut in small pieces, and served as a garnish around broiled chicken or sweetbreads. 302 The Boston Cook Book. Cabbage. Select a small heavy cabbage. Remove the outside leaves, cut into quarters, cut off the tough stalk, soak in cold salted water half an hour. Cook till tender in boil- ing salted water, changing the water twice. Drain, cut or chop fine, season with salt and butter., or cover with v:)hite sauce and buttered crumbs., and bake till the crumbs are brown. The cauliflower and cabbage contain more gluten, and are therefore more nutritious, than any other vegetable food. The}’ should be eaten with fat and oil}’ food, and require an acid, like lemon juice or vinegar, as a condi- ment. Cabbage is considered indigestible, and many boil with it a small piece of red pepper to counteract this effect. If the water in which cabbage is boiled be changed two or three times, less of the strong odor and flavor is retained. With proper treatment this vegetable may be served as temptingly as any other. It is more wholesome when served in its raw state as a salad than w’hen cooked. Celery. Scrape clean, and cut the stalks into inch pieces ; cook* in boiling salted water half an hour, or until tender. Drain and mix with a white sauce ; or dip them vcs. fritter batter., and fry in hot fat. Celery is usually eaten raw, as a salad, but is more digestible when cooked. Celery is particularly good for nervous or rheumatic people. Egg Plant. Cut the plant into slices one third of an inch thick, with- out removing the skin. Sprinkle salt over each slice, pile them, and cover with a weight to press out the juice. Drain, and dip each slice first in fine crumbs., then in beaten egg., and again in crumbs., and saute them in hot fat. Egg plants belong to the same family as the potato and tobacco, all of which contain a bitter juice, more or less poisonous. The Boston Cook Book. 303 Egg Plant Fritters. {Adaline Miller.) — Put the egg plant whole into boiling salted water, mixed with one tablespoonful of vinegar or lemon juice ; cook twenty minutes or until tender ; mash and drain. To one pint of egg plant add half a cup of flour, two eggs, well beaten, and salt and pepper to taste. Fry in small cakes in hot fat, browning well on both sides. Artichokes. The Jerusalem Artichoke is a tuber, something like the potato ; but as it. contains no starch, it is not mealy. Peel and throw at once into cold w'ater and vinegar to preserve the color. Cook in boiling salted water until tender, watch closelv, and take them out as the}" become soft, for if left in lonsfer thev will harden again. Serve with a white sauce. Jerusalem artichokes ma}" be used as a salad, or they ma}" be pickled. Globe Artichokes. — These are thick, fleshj-petalled flowers which grow on a plant that resembles the thistle. The thickened receptacle and scales of the involucre form the edible portion. Soak the artichokes, cut off the out- side leaves, trim away the lower leaves and the ends of the others. Cook in boiling salted water, with the tops downward, half an hour, or until the leaves can be drawn out. Drain, remove the choke, and serve with drawn butter. Mushrooms. Peel the top and stalk, break in small pieces, place them in a stewpan, sprinkle slightly with salt and pepper, and let them stand half an hour, until the juice is drawn out. Stew the mushrooms in the juice and a little butter until tender, add cream to cover, and when the cream is hot serve on toast. Mushrooms are considered difficult of digestion. The}" are a fungous growth, and have a woody odor and a meaty flavor. They are used largely in sauces. Unless familiar with the diflference between the edible and the poisonous mushrooms, it is safer to use the canned mushrooms, or to obtain the fresh at a reliable market. 304 The Boston Cook Book. The eatable mushroom first appears ver^’ small, and of a round button shape, on a short underground stalk. At this stage it is all white. It grows rapidl}’, and soon the skin breaks around the base of the button, which there spreads like an umbrella, and show® underneath a fringed fur of a fine salmon-color, which changes to a chocolate and then to a dark brown color, when the mushrooms have attained some size. They are in perfection before the last change. The skin should peel easil3\ Those with yellow or white fur, and wdiich grow in low, damp shadj^ places, should be avoided. The good mushrooms spring up in open sunny fields in August and September. Do not trust to an}^ written description, but search the fields with some one who can unerringly' distinguish them. The common puff-ball, when white and hard, though not so delicate as the mushroom, makes a palatable dish. It should be peeled with a silver knife, cut in slices half an inch thick, dipped in crumbs and egg^ or in a batter and .fried. Serve at once. Winter Squash. If the shell be soft, jDeel the squash, remove the seeds, and steam or cook in boiling salted water. If the shell be hard, split the squash, remove the seeds, and steam or boil until soft. Scrape out the soft part from the shell, mash, and season to taste. A pint of squash needs one tablespoonful of butter.^ a feio grains of pepper.^ half a teaspoonful of sugar^ and salt to taste. Squash ma}" be baked in the shell, then mashed, and seasoned as above. Summer Squashes are good onl}' when j’oung, fresh, and tender. AVash, and cut into quarters or small pieces. The skin and seeds need not be removed. Cook in boiling salted water twent}' minutes, or until tender. Place the squash in a strainer cloth, mash it thoi’oughh', squeeze the cloth until the squasii is diy. Add a little cream or butter^ salt pepper ^ and heat again before serving. The Boston Cook Book. 305 Carrots and Turnips. Carrots and turnips contain, instead of starch, a gelati- nous gummy substance, called pectine. They are useful in soups, giving them* a fine flavor and color. Soups in which carrots are used are gelatinous when cold. Carrots are not a favorite vegetable for the table ; but if 3'oung and tender, the}’ are palatable when boiled, and served in a white sauce. They should be washed and scraped (not pared) before boiling. Old carrots are sometimes boiled, and served with corned beef and salt fish. Their rich color makes them effective as a garnish. The red, outside part is considered the best, as the inside is stringy. Turnips contain but little nutriment. They are very watery, and having no starch are agreeable food to be eaten with potatoes. They contain no salt, and therefore need more than other vegetables. Being wholly deficient in starch and fat, they are good with fat meat, corned beef, roast pork, and mutton. Turnips inWhite Sauce. — Wash and cut French tur- nips into half or three-quarter inch slices ; pare and cut each slice into strips, and then into cubes. Boil in boiling salted water until tender. Drain and pour lohite sauce over them. Turnips may also be mashed, drained, and seasoned with butter pepper.^ and salt. Parsnips. * • Parsnips contain starch and sugar, a small portion of gluten, and less water than carrots or turnips. They are eaten with salt fish and corned beef. Those which have remained in the ground through the winter are considered the best. They should be washed and scrubbed thor- oughly, but are more easily peeled after boiling. Cut them into half-inch cubes, and serve in white sauce. Parsnip Fritters. — After boiling the parsnips, plunge them into cold water and the skins will slip off easily, mash them, and season to 'taste with butter., salt., and pepper. Flour the hands, and shape the mashed parsnip 20 3o6 The Boston Cook Book, into small, flat oval cakes. Roll them in flour, and fry them in butter until brown ; or dip them in molasses^ and then fiy. Salsify, or Oyster Plant. Scrape, and throw at once into cold water, with a little vinegar in it to keep them from turning black. Cook in boiling salted water one hour, or until tender. Drain, mash, and season, and fry like parsnip fritters ; or cut into inch lengths, and mix wdth a white sauce ; or dip the pieces in fritter hatter^ and fiy in hot fat. Beets. Wash, but do not cut them, as that destro3’s the sweet- ness and color. Cook in boiling water until tender. Young beets will cook in one hour, old beets require a longer time ; and if tough, wilted, or string}^, the}^ will never boil tender. When cooked, put them in a pan of cold water, and rub off the skin. Young beets are cut in slices, and served hot with butter salt., and or cut in small cubes and served in a white sauce. The^" are often pickled in vinegar, spiced or plain, and served cold ; or thej" ma}- be cut into dice, and mixed with other vegetables for a salad. Rice. Rice should be thoroughly washed. Turn the rice into a coarse strainer, and place the strainer in a deep dish of cold water. Rub the rice, and lift it in the strainer out of the water, changing the water till it is clear. It is impor- tant to observe all the steps of this process, for in this wa^’ all the grit is deposited in the water, leaving the rice thoroughl}" cleansed. Drain, and cook in either of the following waj’s, each of which, if followed carefully, will insure white, distinct kernels of thorough!}" cooked rice. Boiled Bice. — Have two quarts oi water witli one table- spoonful of salt boiling rapidl}" in an uncovered kettle. Throw in one cup of loell-ioashed rice., and let it boil so fast that the kernels fairl}" dance in the water. Skim care- The Boston Cook Book. 307 fully, and stir with a fork, never with a spoon, as that mashes the kernels. Cook twelve, fifteen, or twenty min- utes, according to the age of the rice, and add more boiling water if needed. Test the grains often, and the moment they are soft, and before the starch begins to dissolve and cloud the water, pour into a squash strainer. Drain, and place the rice — still in the strainer — in a pan in the hot closet or on the back of the stove. Stir it before serving, to let the steam escape and the kernels become diy. Be careful not to cook the rice enough to burst the grains, as then nothing can prevent them from sticking together. Steamed Bice. — Pour two cups of boiling water on one cup of well- washed rice ; add half a teaspoonful of salt. Cook in the double boiler thirty minutes, or till soft. Re- move the cover, stir with a fork to let the steam escape, and diy off the rice. Rice will usually absorb twice its bulk of water ; but when cooked in milk or stock a little more moisture will be required. Some of the nitrogenous and mineral constituents, of which rice has but a small amount, are lost in the boiling water, and unless the water be used for soup, to boil rice is a wasteful process. Steaming is a much easier method, and is more economical. Man}’ dishes may be prepared from combinations of rice and various seasoning materials. Savory Bice. — Steam one scant cup of rice and two cups of rich white or brown stock highly seasoned with salt., cayenne., chopped parsley., and ground herbs. Stir in one tablespoonful of butter with a fork, just before serving. 2. — Fiy one tablespoonful of chopped onion in one heaping tablespoonful of butter until yellow ; add one scant cup of uncooked rice^ and stir until slightly colored ; then add one pint of chicken stock, and pour all into the double boiler, and steam thirtv minutes. Salmon Bice. — Use half stock and half strained toma- toes ; season highl}'^ with curry, and cook like Savory Rice. Bice with Cheese. — Steam the rice after either of the preceding receipts, and put it in a shallow dish in laj'ers, 3o8 The Boston Cook Book. alternating with grated cheese and tomato sauce^ or with slices of hard-boiled eggs and thin cream sauce. Heat in the oven with or without a crust of buttered crumbs. Macaroni, Spaghetti, and Vermicelli. These are thick pastes made from wheaten flour mixed with a small quantity of water. They are made to take various shapes by being forced through holes in metallic plates. These plates are arranged over a fire ; and the macaroni, as it issues from the holes, is partiall}’ baked, and afterward hung to dry over rods. Vermicelli is used in soup and puddings ; macaroni and spaghetti as vege- tables. Macaroni is a nutritious and economical food, and should be used more extensively than it is. Do not wash it, as the boiling water will better take off aii3'thing that needs to be removed. Alwa3^s cook it in boiling salted water until tender, before serving it in an}’ way. Drain, and pour cold water over it to keep it from becoming pasty. Macaroni, as frequently prepared, in long pieces, which utterly refuse to come out of the dish in a proper manner when served, is not attractive. Nor is it palatable when it is only slightly seasoned, and is dried in the oven with- out a covering of sauce or crumbs. 3facaroni. — Break one quarter of a pound of maca- roni in three-inch pieces, and put into three pints of boil- ing salted icater. Boil twenty minutes, or until soft. Drain in a colander, and pour cold water through it to cleanse and keep it from sticking. Cut into inch pieces. Lay the strips on a board, parallel to each other, ^nd cut through them all at once. Put in a shallow baking-dish and cover with a white sauce., made with a cup and a half of hot milk., one tablespoonfid of butter., and one table- spoonful oi flour., cooked according to directions for White Sauce (see page 189). Add half a teaspoonful of salt. Mix two thirds of a cup of fine cracker crumbs with a third of a cup of melted butter, and sprinkle over the top. Bake till the crumbs are brown. 1 The Boston Cook Booh 309 If cheese be liked with it, use half a cup of grated Par- mesan or aii}^ other diy cheese. Put part of it with the macaroui, and mix the remainder with the crumbs. 2. — Mix two hard-boiled eggs,, chopped fine, with the macaroni. Sprinkle each la3^er with salt and pepper^ and add a little made mustard, if 3^011 wish. Cover with milk and buttered crumbs, and bake until the crumbs are brown. 3. — Pour a rich white sauce over the macaroni, and serve grated cheese on a separate dish. Macaroni and Tomatoes, — Boil as above, and cover with tomato sauce, Fr3^ one tablespoonful of chopped onion in one tablespoonful of butter. Add one large table- spoonful of flour ; when well mixed, add gradually a cup and a half of strained tomato and half a teaspoonful of salt. Pour over the macaroni, and warm in the oven ; or cover with buttered crumbs, and bake until the crumbs are brown. Spaghetti, — This is a variet3’’ of macaroni about one eighth of an inch in diameter. It is usually served un- broken. Take a handful of the long sticks, plunge the ends into rapidly boiling salted water. As the3’ soften, bend and coil the spaghetti in the water, without breaking it, until it is all softened. Boil until tender. Drain, pour cold water through it, and serve without cutting, if you are skilled in the art of winding it around 3’our fork, as the Italians do. Serve the same as macaroni, wdth cream or tomato sauce, cheese, and crumbs. Salads. Green vegetables which are eaten raw and dressed with oil, acids, salt, and pepper, are classed as salads. Potatoes, string beans, beets, asparagus, cauliflower, and many other vegetables which have been cooked, are eaten cold with a salad dressing. Lobster, oysters, salmon, and other kinds of cooked fish, eggs, chicken, and delicate meats are combined with lettuce, cresses, or celery, and 310 The Boston Cook Book. salad dressing, and furnish man}- appetizing and refreshing varieties of this useful form of food. There is a strong prejudice with many against the use of oil. It is not strange when we remember the rancid oil sometimes offered us. Pure olive oil is seldom to be obtained, if we are to believe all that the opposers of adul- teration assert. No doubt much that is sold as olive oil is made from cotton seed ; but if it were sold under its right name and at a reasonable price there would be no objection to its use. When properly purified, and sweet, it ma}^ be as wholesome as oUve oil. They are both veg- etable oils, which are alwa3’s considered more nutritious than animal oils. Oil is one of the best forms of fat we can use, and aids in digestion. Oil, when taken onh^ in lobster salad or at late suppers, as is often the case, is held accountable for the horrors and torment following such a use ; but if used seasonabl}’^ and moderated, there will be no ill effects. French Dressing. 1 saltspoonful salt. 1=4 teaspoonful onion juice. 34 saltspoonful pepper. 1 tablespoonful vinegar. 3 tablespoonfuls oil. Mix in the order given, adding oil slowl}\ This dressing is suitable for vegetable and egg salads, and is also used to marinate, or pickle, a meat or fish salad. The onion ma}" be omitted, and lemon juice ma}’ be used instead of vinegar. A. teaspoonful of made mustard added to a French dressing is liked by many. Boiled Dressing. Yolks of 3 eggs beaten. 1 teaspoonful mustard. 2 teaspoonfuls salt. 34 saltspoonful cayenne. 2 tablespoonfuls sugar. 2 tablespoonfuls melted butter or oil. 1 cup cream or milk. i.< cup hot vinegar. Whites of 3 eggs, beaten stiff. Cook in the double boiler until it thickens like soft cus- tard. Stir well. This will keep in a cool place two weeks, The Boston Cook Book. t 311 and is excellent for lettuce, celery, asparagus, string beans, and cauliflower. Boiled Dressing for Cold Slaio. — Boil half a cup of vinegar with two teaspoonfuls of sugar., half a teaspoon- ful each of salt and mustard., and half a saltspoonful of pepper. Rub a quarter of a cup of butter to a cream, with one teaspoonful oi flour., and pour the boiling vinegar on it. Cook five minutes, then pour it over one well-beaten egg. The yolk only may be used, and the white saved for clearing coffee. Mix this dressing, while hot, with one pint of red cabbage., shaved or chopped, or wdth a mixed vegetable salad. Cold slaw is delicious served with fried 03'sters or fish. Mix the first four ingredients in a small bowl. Add the eggs. Stir well with a small wooden spoon. Add the oil, a few drops at a time, stirring until it thickens. If b3'' chance }’ou add too much oil, do not attempt to stir it all in at once, but take it up gradually. When the dress- ing is thick, thin it with a little lemon, then add oil and lemon alternateh', and lastl^^ the vinegar. When ready to serve, add half a cup of whipped cream., if 3’ou like. The cream makes it whiter and thinner. The oil should thicken the egg almost immediatel3', and the mixture should be thick enough to be taken up in a ball on the spoon, before adding the vinegar. Should the egg not thicken quickly, and have a curdled appearance, half a teaspooiiful of the unbeaten white of egg or a few drops of vinegar will often restore the smooth consistenc3'. Be careful not to use too much, as it will make the dressing thin. The dressing liquefies as soon as mixed with vege- tables or meat ; therefore it should be made stiflT enough to keep in shape until used. Many prefer to use a Dover Mayonnaise Dressing. 1 teaspoonful mustard. 1 teaspoonful powdered sugar, teaspoonful salt, saltspoonful cayenne. Yolks of 2 raw eggs. 1 pint olive oil. 2 tablespoonfuls vinegar. 2 tablespoonfuls lemon juice. 312 The Boston Cook Book, egg-beater, and others sueceed best with a fork. The mixture soon beeomes too hard to use an egg-beater to advantage. Lobster coral, dried and pounded to a powder, will give a Mayonnaise a bright red color. Spinach green, green peas mashed, or chopped parsle}" will color it green. Never mix the Mayonnaise dressing with the meat or fish until ready to serve, and then only part of it, and spread the remainder over the top. Mayonnaise Tartare is simply the addition of chopped olives^ pickles^ parsley^ capers^ and onions to the May- onnaise. Lettuce Salad. — Pick over and wash each leaf with- out breaking. Shake off the water and drain in a net. Keep the lettuce in a cool place until ready to serve. Just before serving, dry between two towels. Arrange the leaves in a salad bowl, the larger leaves around the edge and the light ones in the centre. Serve with boiled dress- ing., or French dressing., or sugar., salt^ and vinegar to taste. Lettuce should be served cool, fresh, and crisp. Never cut it, as that causes the leaves to wilt quickl}'. Tear them apart. Radishes or olives may be served with lettuce ; and when a brilliant effect is desired, garnish with a few nas- turtium blossoms. When lettuce is used wdtli other mate- rials, never mix them until ready to serve. Dressed Celery. — Use only the white, crisp part of the celerj’ stalks. The green parts ma}’ be made into a puree or used in soups. Scrape off the brown discolored part, and wash thoroughly. Keep in cold water, and when ready to serve, drain and arrange in a celery glass. Serve with salt. Or cut the celery in thin slices, moisten with French or Mayonnaise dressing., and garnish with lettuce., cresses., or celery leaves. Lettuce and celery may be served with the roast if desired. Cucumber Salad. — Cut off an inch from each end of the cucumber, and pare off a thick paring, as a bitter juice lies near the skin. Cut in thin slices, or shave with a vegetable cutter. Keep in cold w'ater until readj' to serve. The Boston Cook Book, 313 Drain, and place in the bowl with ice. Serve with salt,, pepper, and vinegar, or with a French dressing. Young onions thinl}' sliced are sometimes mixed with cucumbers. Cucumber and Tomato Salad. — Place a bed of crisp lettuce in a salad dish, then a layer of sliced cucumbers, then sliced tomatoes, and pour a French dressing, or a Mayonnaise, over the whole. Tomatoes peeled and cut into halves, and served with a spoonful of Mayonnaise on each half, make an attractive salad. Potato Salad. — One pint of cold boiled p>otatoes, cut in half-inch dice or shaved in thin slices, and seasoned with salt and p>^PP^'>' >' the yolk of one hard-boiled egg, one heaping tablespoonful of chopped parsley , half a cup of cold beet dice, and a French dressing. Put alternate layers of potato, beet, 3'olk of egg, rubbed through a fine strainer, parsley’, and French dressing, until the materials are all used. Have parsley" and egg on the top, and leave half of the dressing for the last la3'’er. Or arrange the potatoes, parsle3^, and egg in the centre of the dish, then a circle of beets and lettuce around the edge, with French dressing sprinkled over the whole. Sliced onions, red cabbage chopped, capers, dice of turnips, and carrots cut into fanc3' shapes or rubbed through a strainer, may be used with potatoes for a salad. Fo. 2. — One pint of hot potatoes, mashed or cut in slices, half a cup of chopped cabbage, half a cup of chopped celery, one tablespoonful of chopped p>arsley, one cucumber pickle, and one hard-boiled egg, chopped fine. Mix well, and add enough of Boiled Dressing No. 2 to moisten. Keep on the ice until read3" to serve. Place two tablespoonfuls on a leaf of lettuce, and serve in the leaf. Many professional cooks prefer to mix a potato salad while the potatoes are hot, as the salad looks more appetizing, will keep longer, and have less of the sogg3’ peculiar taste than when made with cold potatoes. Rubbing a cut onion or a little garlic round the salad 3H The Boston Cook Book. bowl is sufficient where only a slight flavor of onion is desired. Vegetable salads are suitable for lunch or tea, or may be served as a course at dinner. Egg Salad. — Boil six eggs twenty minutes. Cut the whites in thin slices, or chop them very fine. Arrange a bed of cresses on a dish. Make nests of the whites, and put one whole 3’olk in the centre of each nest ; or rub the yolks through a fine strainer over the whites. Sprinkle a French dressing over the whole. Serve small balls of cottage cheese with the salad. Oyster Salad. — Steam or parboil one ‘pint of oysters. Drain, cool, and marinate them with a French dressing. Serve with cresses., celery., or lettuce., and a Ma3’onnaise dressing. Fish Salad. — One quart of an}' kind of cold cooked fish, flaked and freed from bones and skin, and placed on a bed of lettuce. Pound the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs, and three sardines (bones and skin removed) to a smooth paste. Mix this paste with the Boiled or the Mayonnaise dressing, and pour it over the fish. Gar- nish with slices of lemon. Chicken Salad. — One pint each of cold boiled or roasted chicken and celery, or half as much celery as Fig. 40. Chicken Salad. chicken. Cut the chicken into quarter-inch dice. Scrape, wash, and cut the celery in dice. Mix and marinate with a French dressing, and keep on the ice until ready to serve. Make a Mayonnaise dressing, and mix part of it with the chicken ; arrange the salad in a dish, pour the remainder of the dressing over it, and garnish with celery The Boston Cook Book. 315 leaves and capers, or lettuce, and yolk of bard-boiled egg rubbed through a fine strainer. Lobster Salad. — Cut one pint of lobster meat va season with a French dressing, and keep it on ice until ready to serve, then mix with half of the Mayonnaise dressing. Make nests or cups of the crisp lettuce leaves ; break the poorer lettuce leaves and mix with the lobster. Put a large spoonful of the lobster in each leaf, with a tablespoonfal of the Mayonnaise on the top. Garnish with cap>ers and pounded coral, sprinkled over the dress- ing, and with lobster claws and round the edge. Salmon Salad. — Prepare in the same way with cooked or canned salmon, freed from bones, skin, and oil. Salad Sandwiches. — Mix a small quantity of ' May on- natse dressing with finely chopped lobster or chicken. Cover a small slice of bread with lettuce, then the salad, lettuce, and bread again. Wrap them in tin foil or oiled paper, and serve at picnics or when travelling. 3i6 The Boston Cook Book. PASTRY AND PIES. Puff Paste, when skilfully made, is light and tender, and so delicate that it cannot be touched without crushino-. It should be thoroughly baked, and is therefore more suit- able for tarts and patties and the upper crust of pies. Eat it sparingly ; unless you have a good digestion, and exer- cise freely, never eat it. It is, however, less injurious than the ordinary pastry seen on man}’ tables, as it con- tains no more shortening than much of the pastry made with a “guess measure” of lard. It is not so much the amount of fat the paste contains that makes it indigestible, as the inferior quality of the fat, such as rancid butter or impure lard, or the soggy, greas}’, half-cooked paste. Pastry that is light, diy, and flak}^ is more easily sepa- rated by the gastric fluids than that which is heavj'. Many housekeepers use lard in making pastr}', as it is cheaper than butter, and makes a softer and more tender crust. Butter is more wholesome, and is preferable if }'Ou wish to make a brown crust.. A mixture of half lard and half butter answers vef}' well for common paste, but for piifl* paste butter alone should be used. In French receipts for puff paste eggs are considered essential, but there is no necessitj?" for their use. It requires practice to make puff paste well ; and as there are- so man}’ other dishes more easily made and vastly moi;e important, it is better not to waste time and strength upon it. Let your ambition as a house- keeper soar higher than perfection in making puff paste. But those who will have it may observe the following directions. Bw{f Paste. — One pound of the best butter., one pound oi pastry flour one scant teaspoonful of salt., about one The Boston Cook Book. 317 CU}) of ice water. By measure, use one quart oi flour and one pint of butter. Scald the bowl, then fill with cold water. Dip the hands into hot and then into cold water ; this makes bowl and hands smooth, and keeps the butter from sticking. Wash the butter, by working it in the cold water, till soft and wax3^ Divide into four parts ; pat each part into a long and narrow piece, and wrap in a clean napkin. Have three shallow oblong pans that will fit the one into the other. Fill the largest and smallest of the pans with broken ice. Put the butter, covered with the napkin, into the other, and place it between the two pans of ice to harden. Mix the salt with the flour, then break in one quarter of the butter. Rub with the tips of the fingers, and keep plent\' of flour between the fingers and the but- ter. Many prefer to chop it, that the warmth of the hand may not soften the butter. When the butter and flour are well mixed, and fine and dr}’^ like meal, pour in the cup of ice water slowly. Mix with a knife, and cut, rather than stir. Wet onh’ part of the flour at first and toss it to one side of the bowl, then wet another part ; and when it is all of the proper consistency, cut and mix it together till it can be taken up clean from the bowl with the knife. Add the last of the water cautiousl}", wetting only the dry flour, and use less or more than the cupful as the flour ma}’ require. If the butter be softened by the heat in rubbing, it will moisten the flour, and less water will be required. But it should not be allowed to soften. The mixture should be light and diy, like separate minute crumbs of butter coated with flour. Use a large smooth rolling-board and a glass rolling- pin. Put half a cup of flour in the dredger, and sprinkle the middle of the board with a ligjht coating of flour. Toss the ball of paste in the flour with a knife until floured all over, then pat with the rolling-pin into a flat cake an inch thick. Have the end of the board next ,you, that you may roll the paste the required length. Hold the handles of the pin firml}’, and roll with a light quick stroke as far as 3i8 The Boston Cook Book. your arms will allow, — the whole length of the paste, if possible, at every stroke. Do not attempt to roll the paste W'hen it is in a ball or a cubical form, but pat it lightly, to make as large and flat a surface as possible before rolling. Roll out to the thickness of one third of an inch, and to a rectangular form. Lay one of the quarters of butter in a little flour on the corner of the board, and roll quickly into a long thin piece ; scrape it up with a knife, and la}^ along the middle of the whole length of the paste. Fold over one side of the paste, then the other, letting the edges just meet in the middle of the butter. Bo not pat it down. Then fold each end to the middle and double again. Pound into a flat cake and roll again one quarter of an inch thick. Roll another piece of butter thin, lay it on the paste, fold the sides over, then the ends over, and then together, and repeat the process with the remaining pieces of butter. When the butter is all rolled in, the paste may be folded, patted, and rolled out, two, three, or seven times, as your strength will permit. Twice is enough for pies, three or four times for patties ; but more are needed for a vol-au- vent. When the butter is of the right texture, fine, smooth, and firm, not dry and crumbly, and the mixing and rolling are done so quickly and deftly that the butter does not soften, the paste will not stick, and very little flour will be required in rolling. Do not strike a hard blow in rolling, nor press the paste down to the board, but roll with a light gentle stroke. When the paste does not slip along the board, 3"Ou ma}^ know it is sticking, and it must be lifted at once, the board scraped clean, and floured slight!}'. Should the paste become soft and sticky, fold again, and pat it out to the size of the pan, and put it in the napkin between the two pans of ice. It will harden in ten minutes, and then may be rolled easilv. After all the but- ter is in the dough, cut in two pieces, then roll and fold one, while the other is in the ice pan. Keep the board and pin wiped dr}", and use only a little flour, but use enough to keep the paste from sticking. The Boston Cook Book. 319 Keep the edges even while rolling, and fold evenly, that there may be an equal number of layers in all parts. Each time the paste is folded over the butter a small amount of air is enclosed and is retained, unless the fold be patted down and allow the air to escape at the end. These bub- bles of air may be plainly seen when the ball of dough is patted and rolled out, and care must be taken not to let the air escape. For this reason roll lightly and always from you^ as a hard motion back and forth is more liable to break the bubbles. • Foil with a fan-like sweep, a little to the right and left, to widen it and keep the rectangular shape ; then roll gently on the edge nearest 3*011, to make it of uniform thickness. The more of the bubbles you can retain in the paste, the lighter and more puff}' it will be. The number of folds or la3*ers of butter and paste makes the paste flaky, but the amount of air in it makes it rise and puff in baking. The paste should be folded and rolled till no streaks of butter can be seen. After the last rolling, place it on the ice to harden, as it ma}^ then be rat and shaped more easil}'. To Bake Puff Paste. — The dough should be ic}' cold when it is put into the oven. If the patties soften after being shaped, place them between the pans of ice till they are hard. The oven should be about as hot as for rolls, with the heat greater underneath, that the paste ma}* rise nearl}* to its full height before browning ; then quicken the fire to brown the tops, and turn the heat from underneath or put a pan or grate under to prevent burning. If the oven be too hot, the paste will burn before it is risen ; if too slow, it will melt and spread. Patty Shells, Tarts, Vol-au-vents, and other Forms of Puff Paste. There are two wa}*s of shaping the paste for patties and tarts. First, roll puff paste one eighth of an inch thick, and stamp out circular pieces with a cutter, two and 320 The Boston Cook Book. one half inches in diameter. With a smaller cutter stamp out the centres from half of these pieces, leaving rings half an inch wide. Dip the cutters in hot water, and cut quicklj', that the edges may not be pressed together or cut unevenly. Rub a little white of egg on the top of the large rounds near the edge, put on the rings, and press them lightly to make them adhere, but be careful not to get any egg on the edges, as that will prevent them from rising. Put round pieces of stale bread, cut half an inch thick, in the centre, to keep the paste from rising and fill- ing the cavity. Bake on shallow pans lined with paper, and when done remove the bread and soft paste under- neath. Bake the small pieces cut from the centre on a pan by themselves, as they take less time for baking. In serving place them on the top of the shells for a cover. Another way is to roll the paste one fourth of an inch thick, cut with a round cutter, and then with the smaller cutter cut nearl}^ through the centre of each round, making a rim half an inch wide.’ After baking remove the centre crust and soft part underneath, without breaking through, as then the shell will not hold any liquid mixture. Some persons prefer this method ; but there is less waste when cut in the first wa}’’, as the parts cut out may be baked for covers, and usually prove to be the most delicate part of the paste. Or, if covers are not wanted, these cen- tres may be rolled out thinner, and used as bottom pieces. The paste for patties is usuall}’ rolled one fourth of an inch thick and cut with a plain cutter. Two or three rims may be put on when a deeper shell is desired. An}' kind of delicate cooked meat or fish ( chicken, sweetbreads, oysters, lobster, etc.) may be cut into small pieces, and warmed in a thick cream sauce (see page 278), and served hot in patty shells, with a cover of the paste. Tarts are made thinner, and cut with a fluted cutter. They are filled with jelly or j^reserves, and served cold without a cover. CupuVs Wells. — Cut the rounds of puff paste of three or four different sizes ; use the largest one for the bottom. The Boston Cook Book, 321 and cut the centres from the others, leaving the rims of different widths, and put them on the whole round, wdth the narrowest at the top. Bake, and fill with jellj'. Vol-au-ve7it. — This is made from the lightest form of puff paste, cut to any size and shape desired, a large oval being generalh’ preferred. Mark the outline with an oval mould or pan, and cut quickly with a knife dipped in hot water. Put on two or three rims, wetting the edge of each with wdiite of egg. Make an oval hoop of stiff paper, two inches high, and slightly larger than the vol-au-vent, and place around it to prevent scorching. Bake a large vol- au-vent nearly an hour. Cakes a la Polonaise. — Roll puff paste veiy thin, cut into pieces three inches square, wet the centre, turn each corner over, press the point down in the centre, and put a veiy small round of paste on the centre. Bake, and when cool put dots of jelly on each corner. Fig. 42. Bow-Knots. Bow-JCnots. Cut thin puff paste into half-inch strips, and shape them on the baking-pan into the form of a double bow-knot. When baked, put jelly on each loop of the bow. Pissoles. Roll the scraps of puff paste thin, and cut into rounds. Put a spoonful of whatever material is to be used in the centre of half of the number, wet the edg^s, and cover with the remaining rounds, first cutting a cross in the middle, or stamping out a small piece with a vege- table cutter or pastry tube. Any kind of cold meat may be cut fine, seasoned to taste, moistened with a white sauce, and used in the rissoles. Or the\’ may be filled with stewed and sweetened fruit, or mince meat prepared 21 322 The Boston Cook Book. as for pies. They may be cut into larger rounds, the filling placed on one half, and the edges folded together like turnovers. Bake in a hot oven. Plaits. — Roll very cold puff paste thin, and cut into half-inch strips. Braid them together, and bake quickl}’. Cheese Straws. — Roll scraps of puff paste thin, sprinkle with grated cheese, and cayenne pepper if you like, fold, roll out, and sprinkle again, and repeat the process. Then place on the ice to harden. When cold, roll into rectangular shape one eighth of an inch thick ; place it on a baking-pan, and with a pastry cutter dipped in hot water, cut into strips four or five inches long and less than a quarter of an inch wide. Bake, and serve piled cob-house fashion. Some- times, when the paste is very hard, they are cut as narrow as possible, laid on the pan in groups of five or six, with one straw laid over the middle to represent a bundle of straws, and baked in that form. Pies. For Pies., roll the puff paste out a quarter of an inch thick, then roll up, and cut from the end of the roll. Turn each piece on the side, so that the folds show in rings, and pat out flat, then roll to fit the plate. Keep the paste in a circular form, and roll evenly in every direction. Make slightl}' larger than the plate, as the paste shrinks when taken from the board, and should be fulled in rather than stretched to the required size. After a little practice it is just as easy to judge of the amount of paste required for one crust, and roll it in this wa}’^ to fit the plate, as to roll so large a quantity that the edges have to be trimmed off and mixed with the remainder of the paste. Roll some of the paste, and cut into strips three quarters of an inch wide ; wet the under crust and place the rim on the edge. Use one rim for pies which are to be covered, and two, if you Fig. 43. Cheese Straws. The Boston Cook Book. 323 like, for pies without an upper crust. Fill the plate with the material to be used. Roll the upper crust larger than the plate, make a cut in the centre to let the steam escape, wet the rims, put the crust on the edge even with the rim and slightl}- fuller in the centre, to allow for shrinking in baking ; otherwise the crust, as it is forced up bj the steam within, will draw awa}* from the edge. Wet every spot of the rim and edge, and press closel}' but lightly' together, to keep the juices from boiling out. All pies, meat pies especiall}”, with a top crust should have several holes cut in the crust to let the steam escape. All fruit pies are better flavored if made with fresh, rather than stewed, fruits. If to be filled with juicy fruit, or cream, the}" are more wholesome prepared as follows : Bake the two crusts separately, stew the fruit, fill, and put the two together. Or fill with a mock filling of pieces of clean cloth, bake, remove the cloth, and just before serving fill with the prepared fruit. Pies should bake from half to three quarters of an hour, or till brown. Use tin plates, as pies bake better on the bottom in them. No greasing is needed, and the pies should be changed to earthen plates as soon as done. Pastry for One Pie. — One heaping cup of pastry flour one saltspoonful of baking -poxoder.^ one saltspoon- ful of salt^ and from one third to one half of a cup of butter and lard mixed. Mix the baking-powder and salt with the flour, and rub in the lard. Mix quite stiff with cold water. Roll out, put the butter on the paste in little pieces, and sprinkle with flour. Fold over, and roll out. Roll up like a jelly roll. Divide in two parts, and roll to fit the plate. Cream Paste. — Mix half a teaspoonful of salt and half a scdtspoonfxd of soda with one'cup of cream., and stir in flour enough to mix to a stiff paste. Roll half an inch thick. Cut half a cup of butter into small pieces, and put it on the paste. Sprinkle with flour, fold and roll out thin ; roll up, cut a piece from the end, and roll to fit the plate. 324 The Boston Cook Book. Plain Paste. {Mrs. Tilton.') — Beat the white of one egg with one tahlespoonful of lard. Work it into one quart of flour with the hands, till fine as meal. Add about one cup of ice water. Roll out, and put half a pound of butter on the paste in little pieces, either all at once or half of it at a time. Dredge lightly with flour. Fold the edges over, roll up, pat, and roll out. Lemon Pie.^ Mo. 1. — Mix one heaping tahlespoonful of cornstarch with one cup of sugar ; add one scant cup of boiling water., and boil five minutes. Add one tea- spoonful of butter., the juice of one large lemon., and one egg., well beaten. Bake between two crusts. No. 2. {Miss M. L. Clarke^ — Mix three table- spoonfuls of cornstarch., one saltspoonful of salt., and one cup and a half of sugar ; add one pint of boiling water., and boil five minutes. Add the grated rind and juice of two large lemons. When slightly cooled, add the well- beaten yolks of four eggs., then the whites beaten stiff. Cut them in as for an omelet. Line the plate with crust and rim, add the filling, and bake about twenty min- utes. If desired, cover when cool with a meringue, made with the whites of three eggs and one third of a cup of sugar. No. 3. {Miss Hammond.) — Mix one cup and a half of sugar and two heaping teaspoonfuls of flour ; add the well-beaten yolks of six eggs and the xchites of two eggs, beaten stiff, the grated rind of one and the juice of two lemons, and one cup of ice water. Line two plates with a crust and rim, fill, and bake in a moderate oven. Make a meringue with the whites of four eggs and one cup of powdered sugar. Chess Pie. — Beat the yolks of three eggs until light and thick ; add half a cup of fine granulated sugar, and beat again ; add one third of a cup of butter rubbed to a cream, and half a teaspooiful of vanilla. Bake on a plate lined and bordered with puff paste. When done, cover with the whites of three eggs beaten stiff, and mixed with half a cup of powdered sugar and one teaspoonful of The Boston Cook Book. 325 lemon' juice. Brown slightl}^, and cut while hot, but serve cold. Apple Pie. — Cut sour apples in quarters, remove the cores and skins, and cut each quarter in two pieces lengthwise. Fill the plate, putting the pieces of apple round the edge in regular order, and piling slightly in tJie middle. They will cook as quickly as when sliced, though many are unwilling to believe it. When the apples are dry, add a little water. Cover with crust without wet- ting the edges, and bake about half an hour. When done, boil three heaping tahlespoonfuls of sugar and one of water five minutes. Add the grated rind of one quarter of a lemon^ or one tahlespoonful of lemon juice. When the pie is done, remove to an earthen plate, pour this s\u'up through a cut in the top, or raise the upper crust and pour it over the fruit, or simply sprinkle with sugar and bits of butter. To sweeten before baking, sprinkle half a cup of sugar ^ mixed with a little spice or grated lemon rind over the apple. Bind the edge of the crusts with a narrow strip of wet cloth, to keep in the syrup. Or wet the edge of the lower crust, sprinkle with flour, put on a rim, wet and flour that also ; fill with fruit, sweeten, put on the upper crust, and press the edges firmly together. Bhuharh Pie. — Peel the rhubarb, cut into inch pieces, pour boiling water over it, and let it stand ten minutes. Drain, fill the plate, sprinkle thickly with one cup of sugar., dot with bits of butter., cover with a crust, and bake. Squash Pie. — 0)ie cup and a half of stewed and sifted squash, not watery, but dr}" and mealy, one cup of boiling milk, half a cup of sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt, one saltspoonful of cinnamon, and one egg beaten slightly. Mix in the order given. Line a plate with paste, put on a rim, and fill w"ith the squash. Pumpkin pies are made in the same way. Custard Pie. — Beat three eggs slightly, add three tahlespoonfuls of sugar, one saltspoonful of salt, and one saltspoonful of nutmeg, if liked. Pour on three cups of 326 The Boston Cook Book. scalded milk; strain into a deep plate, lined with paste. Bake slowh’, and the moment it puffs and a knife blade comes out clean, it is done. Berry Pies. — Pick over the berries and sprinkle slight!}" with flour ; add sugar to taste, — about one cup for a quart of fruit. Do not spoil the fruit flavor by using spices. Bake in a deep plate, with two crusts. 2 teaspoonfuls salt. Mix in the order given. Use enough of the meat liquor to make quite moist. Substitute one cup of cider for the wine and brandy, if you prefer. Cook it in a porcelain kettle until the apple and raisins are soft. Do not add the wine, brandy, and rose water until the mixture is cooked. One cup of chopped suet or half a cup of butter may be added if preferred ; but if the fat on the meat be used, or the pies are to be eaten cold, suet is not needed. Meat from the vein or the lower part of the round that has a little fat and no bone is the best for pie meat. Plain Mince Pie. — One cup of chopped meat (cold steak or roast beef which has been simmered till tender), two cups of chopped apple., one teaspoonful each of salt., allspice., and cinnamon., one cup of brown sugar., half a cup of small whole raisins, half a cup of currants, mois- tened with one cup of cider, or one cup of siceet pickle vinegar, or half a cup of water, juice of one lemon, and two or three spoonfuls of an}" remnants of jelly ov preserve. Eccles Pie. {^Miss Barnes.) — Two cups of seedless raisins and half a pound of citron, chopped very fine; Mince Meat for Pies. 1 cup chopped meat, cup raisins, cup currants. 1)^ cup brown sugar. 3^ cup molasses, or 1 cup granulated sugar. 3 cups chopped apples. 1 cup meat liquor. 2 teaspoonfuls cinnamon. teaspoonful mace. 3^ teaspoonful powdered cloves. 1 lemon (grated rind and juice). 34 piece citron. 34 cup brandy. 34 cup wine. 3 teaspoonfuls rose water. The Boston Cook Book, 327 add one cup of sugar ^ the juice of one lemon^ and a little water. Stew five minutes. Line small patty pans with puff paste, fill with the fruit mixture, cover, and bake. Fanchonnettes. — Line small patt}^ pans with puff paste, rolled very thin ; fill them with lemon prepared as for Lemon Pie, No. 1 ; cover with a thin crust, and bake quickl}'. Or fill them as directed for Lemon Pie, No. 2, and bake without an upper crust. 328 The Boston Cook Book. PUDDING SAUCES. Hard Sauce (for Hot Puddings). ^ cup butter. teaspoonful lemon or vanilla, 3^ cup powdered sugar. or a little nutmeg. Rub the butter to a cream in a warm bowl ; add the sugar graduall}^, then the flavoring. Pack it smoothly in a small dish, and stamp it with a butter mould or the bottom of a figured glass. Keep it on ice till veiy hard. Or pile it lightly on a small fancy dish, and you may call it Snowdrift Sauce. Lemon Sauce. 2 cups hot water. Grated rind and juice of 1 lemon. 1 cup sugar. 1 tablespoonful butter. 3 heaping teasp. cornstarch. Boil the water and sugar five minutes, and add the corn- starch, wet in a little cold water. Cook eight or ten minutes, and add the lemon rind and juice and the butter. Stir until the butter is melted, and serve at once. If the water boil away and the sauce become too thick, add more hot water till of the right consistencj". Whipped Cream Sauce. 1 cup cream. 3^ cup powdered sugar. 1 teaspoonful lemon or vanilla. White of 1 egg. Mix the cream, vanilla, and sugar, and whip it without skimming off the froth. Add the beaten white of the egg and beat all together. Serve it on any pudding usually eaten with sugar and cream. The Boston Cook Book. 329 Apricot Sauce. 1 cup apricot juice. 1 teaspoonful cornstarch or ^ cup sugar. flour. Boil all together five minutes and strain. Use any kind of fruit juice or sj’rnp in the same manner. Creamy Sauce. 3^ cup butter. 2 tablespoonfuls wine, 3^2 cup powdered sugar, sifted. 2 tablespoonfuls cream. Cream the butter ; add the sugar slowl}', then the wine and cream. Beat well, and just before serving place the bowl over hot water and stir till smooth and creamy, but not enough to melt the butter. When the wine and cream are added, the sauce has a curdled appearance. This is removed by thorough beating, and by heating just enough to blend the materials smoothl}". It is not intended to be a hot sauce ; and if the sauce become oily in heating, place the bowl in cold water and beat again until smooth like thick cream. Omit the wine if desired, and use half a cup of cream^ and one teaspoonful of lemon or vanilla. Serve on any hot pudding. Foamy Sauce, No. 1. Whites of 2 eggs. 1 cup boiling milk. 1 cup sugar. Juice of 1 lemon. Beat the whites of the eggs till foamy, but not drj’’ ; add the sugar, beat well ; add the milk and lemon juice. Foamy Sauce, No. 2. 3^ cup butter. 1 cup powdered sugar. 1 teaspoonful vanilla. 2 tablespoonfuls wine, or fruit juice, or syrup. 3^ cup boiling water. White of 1 egg beaten to a foam. Cream the butter ; add the sugar, vanilla, and wine. Just before serving add the boiling water, stir well, then add the egg, and beat till foamy. 330 The Boston Cook Book, Half a cup oi jelly melted in one fourth of a cup of boil- ing water and poured into the butter and sugar mixture, makes a pleasing variety. Yellow Sauce. {Mrs. Towne.') 34 pound butter. 1 gill brandy or wine. 34 pound brown sugar. A little nutmeg. Yolk of 1 egg. Cream the butter, add the sugar, and stir over hot water till liquid, then add the yolk of the egg, beaten. Stir till it thickens ; add brandy or wine and nutmeg, and serve. Wine Sauce. 1 cup boiling water. 1 tablespoonful cornstarch. 34 cup butter. 1 cup powdered sugar. 1 egg. 1 saltspoonful grated nu^'meg. 34 cup wine. Wet the cornstarch in cold water, and stir into the boil- ing water. Boil ten minutes. Rub the butter to a cream ; add the sugar gradually, then the egg, well beaten, and the nutmeg. When the cornstarch has cooked ten min- utes, add the wine, and pour the whole into the butter, sugar, and egg, stirring until well mixed. Caramel Sauce. {Miss Parloa.) — Put half a cup of sugar in an omelet pan, and stir over the fire till melted and light brown. Add half a cup of boiling water and simmer ten minutes. Molasses Sauce. — Mix one cup of molasses tk® juice of one lemon or one tablespoonf id of vinegar., half a salt- spoonful of salt., and one tablespoonful of butter. Boil ten minutes and serve with plain rice or apple pudding. Plain Pudding Sauce. {Miss Hammond.) — Melt one heaping tablespoonftd of butter; add two tablespoon- fuls oi flour., and one cup and a hdlfoi hot water. Cook as for drawn butter ; then add one cup and a half of brown sugar. .Stir till the sugar is melted, add two tea- spoonfuls of lemon juice and a little nutmeg. The Boston Cook Book, 331 HOT PUDDINGS. Cottage Pudding. 2 heaping cups flour. 2 teaspoonfuls baking-powder. ]/2 teaspoonful salt. 1 egg. ^ cup sugar. 3 tablespoonfuls melted butter. 1 cup milk. Mix tbe salt and baking-powder with the flour. Beat the egg, add the sugar, melted butter, and milk, and stir into the flour. Bake in a shallow dish. Serve with lemon^ wine^ or foamy sauce. Dutch Apple Cake. This is used as a pudding (see page 86). It is easily prepared, attractive, and delicious, served with lemon sauce. Scalloped Apple, or Apple Sandwich. Mix half a cup of sugar and half a saltspoonful of cin- namon or the grated rind of half a lemon. Melt half a cup of butter, and stir it into one pint of soft bread crumbs; prepare three pints of sliced apples. Butter a pudding- dish, put in a layer of crumbs, then sliced apple, and sprinkle with sugar ; then another la3^er of crumbs, apple, and sugar until the materials are used. Have a thick layer of crumbs on the top. When the apples are not juicy, add half a cup of cold water; and if not tart apples, add the juice of half a lemon. Bake about an hour. Cover at first, to prevent burning. Serve with cream. Ripe ber- ries and other acid fruits may be used instead of apples, and oatmeal or cracked wheat mush in th» place of bread crumbs. 332 The Boston Cook Book. Steamed Apple Pudding, or Dumpling. {Mrx. S. M. Bailey.) Fill a two-quart granite pan two thirds full of sour apples cut into eighths, and add half a cup of water. Butter the edge of the pan and the inside of the cover. Cover with a biscuit crust, made of one pint of flour two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder., and half a teaspoon fid of salt ; wet with one scant cup of milk., just stiff enough to roll out. Cover closely and steam one hour, or cook on top of the stove half an hour, with a trivet under the pan to keep the apple from burning. Serve at once with lemon or molasses sauce. Put a large round plate over the pan ; invert them, leaving the crust on the plate with the apples at the top. Cut like a pie. The crust may be shortened, the apples sweetened with molasses, and then baked in the oven ; and it is called Pandowdy. Steamed Carrot Pudding. {Mr. Cole.) pound flour. 34 pound chopped suet. 34 pound currants. 34 pound sugar. 34 pound grated carrot. 34 teaspoonful salt. Mix in the order given, and steam in a buttered mould three hours. Serve with wine sauce. Bread and Fruit Pudding. Soak one cup of stale bread crumbs in one pint of hot milk; add one tablespoonful oi butter^ one cup of sugar., one saltspoonful of salt., and one saltspoonful of spice. When cool, add three eggs., well beaten. Add two cup>s of fruit., either chopped apples, raisins, currants, canned peaches, or apricots, — one, or a mixture of two or more varieties. When using canned fruit, drain it from the syrup, and use the latter in making a sauce. Yaiy the sugar according to the fruit. Turn into a buttered pud- ding-mould, and steam tw-o hours. IPo. 2. — Beat the yolks of three eggs., add one cup and The Boston Cook Book, 333 a half of sugar, the grated rind and juice of one lemon, one saltspoonful of salt, one cup each of chopped apples, currants, and grated bread crumbs. Mix well, then add the whites of the eggs, beaten stiff. Boil in a buttered pudding-mould three hours, or bake two hours. Serve with lemon or foamy sauce. Eve’s Pudding. — Add half a cup of butter or one cup of chopped suet to the preceding rule. Bird’s-Nest Pudding. Six or seven apples, cored and pared, and put into a buttered pudding-dish. Mix five teaspoonfuls of fiour and one teaspoonful of salt, wet it to a smooth paste with cold milk, and add the yolks of three eggs, well beaten, then the whites, and more milk, using one pint in all. Pour it over the apples, and bake one hour. Serve with hard or creamy sauce. Apple Tapioca Pudding. Pick over and wash three quarters of a cup of pearl tapioca. Pour one quart of boiling water over it, and cook in thg double boiler till transparent ; stir often, and add half a teaspoonful of salt. Core and pare seven apples. Put them in a round baking-dish, and fill the cores with sugar and lemon juice. Pour the tapioca over them and bake till the apples are very soft. Serve hot or cold, with sugar and cream. A delicious variation may be made b}^ using half pears, or canned quinces, and half apples. Apple Meringue. Core, pare, and bake seven apples, on a shallow plate, till soft, but not till broken. Beat the yolks of three eggs; add three tablespoonfids of sugar, a little salt, and one pint of scalded rhilk. Pour it over the baked apples. Bake till the custard is firm. When cool, add a meringue made of the whites of three eggs, beaten till foamy ; add three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar graduallj^ fiavor 334 The Boston Cook Book. with lemon., and beat till stiff. Set the pudding-dish on a board in the oven, and brown the meringue. The whites of eggs for a meringue should be cool, and beaten till light and foam}', but not stiff ; then add sugar gradually, in the proportion of one tablespoonful for each egg., and beat till stiff enough to keep its shape. No. 2. — Pare and core the apples, fill the cavity with sugar and spice mixed, or with sugar., butter., and lemon. Bake the apples, cover with a meringue made with the whites of the eggs ; make the yolks into a boiled custard for a sauce, or serve with cream. This may be served hot or cold. Brown the meringue by holding a hot stove cover over it. Apple Porcupine. Arrange eight or ten apples (baked as in' the preceding rule, or cored, pared, and cooked carefully in syrup, see Compote of Apples) in a mound on a dish for serving. Put quince jelly among the apples. Cover with a meringue made of the whites of four eggs and half a cup ofpoio- dered sugar. Stick blanched almonds into the meringue. Put the dish on a board in the oven, and brown slightly, or hold a hot iron over it. Serve with boited custard sauce. Friar’s Omelet. Steam tart apples, mash, and drain quite dry. Take one pint, of the pulp., and mix with it the yolks of three well-beaten eggs., one cup of sugar, and the juice of half a lemon / then add the beaten whites. Brown one cup of soft, fine bread crumbs in one tablespoonful of butter in an omelet pan. Butter a plain mould thickly with cold butter, and sprinkle over the bottom and sides as many of the browned crumbs as will adhere. Fill with the prepared apple ; cover with buttered crumbs, and bake twenty min- utes. When cold, turn out on a platter, and serve with cream. It may be baked in a pudding-dish, and eaten hot. The Boston Cook Book. 335 i Apricots a la Neige. Boil one cup of rice fifteen minutes, or steam till tender (see page 307). Wring small pudding-cloths (one third of a yard square) out of hot water, and lay them over a small half-pint bowl. Spread the rice one third of an inch thick over the cloth. Put an apricot in the centre, filling the cavit}' in each half-apricot with rice. Draw the cloth around till the apricot is covei’ed smooth- ly with the rice. Fio 44^ Apple Snowballs. Tie tightly, and steam ten minutes. Remove the cloth carefull}', and turn the balls out on a platter, and serve with apricot sauce. This amount of rice will make four or five balls. Apples, cored and pared, may be substituted for apricots. They should be steamed half an hour. These are/more whole- some than apple or fruit dumplings, made with a flour crust. They are called Apple Snowballs. Plain Rice Pudding. Half a cup of well-washed rice., half a cup of sugar., a little salt., and one quart of milk. Soak half an hour. Bake about two hours, slowly at first till the rice has soft- ened and thickened the milk ; then let it brown sliffhtlv. This is creamy and delicious, though it is often called Poor Man's Pudding. Serve hot or cold. No. 2. — Three tablespoonfuls of rice., a little salt., three tablespoonfuls of sugar., one quart of milk., and three sour apples^ pared and quartered, or one cup of small, whole raisins. Put all into a deep pudding-dish, well buttered. Cover, and bake slowly four or five hours, till the milk is all absorbed and the rice is red or colored. Serve hot with butter. 336 The Boston Cook Book. Rice and Fruit Pudding. Steam one scant cup of rice in two cups of boiling water ^ in the double boiler, thirty minutes. Add, while hot, one tablespoonful of butter^ one scant teaspoonful of salt^ one beaten egg^ and half a cup of sugar. Cook five minutes. Butter a plain pudding-mould, sprinkle it with bread crumbs, or line with macaroons. Put in a layer of rice half an inch thick, then a layer of apricots or peaches or pineapple, then rice, fruit, etc., till the mould is full, hav- ing crumbs on the top. Bake twenty minutes in a mod- erate oven. Turn out on a platter, and serve with boiled custard flavored with va7iilla^ or with an apricot sauce. Rice Souffle. Boil half a cup of rice in one quart of boiling salted water fifteen or twenty minutes, and drain it. Put the rice in the double boiler with one pint of milk., cook ten minutes ; add the yolks of four or six eggs beaten with four or six tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar and one tablespoonful of butter. Cook five minutes, and set away to cool ; add half a teaspoojful of vanilla or lemon. Half an hour before serving, beat the whites of the eggs stiff, and cut them lightly into the cooked mixture. Bake in a well-buttered pudding-dish half an hour. Serve im- mediately with creamy sauce. Rice Custard. Soak half a cup of cold cooked rice in one pint of hot milk till every grain is distinct. Add the yolks of two eggs., beaten with a quarter of a cup of sugar and a pinch of salt., and cook like soft custard. While still hot, stir in the whites., beaten stiflT, and set away to cool. Or turn the hot custard into a dish, and when cool cover with a meringue of the w'hites. Brown slightly*, and serve cold. The Boston Cook Book. 337 Custard Souffle. {Miss Parloa.) Rub two scant tciblespoonf uls of butter to a cream ; add two tahlespoonfuls of flour, and pour on gradually one cup of hot milk. Cook eight minutes in the double boiler, stirring often. Separate the yolks and whites of four eggs, and put the whites away in the ice-chest. Beat the yolks, add tico tablespoonfuls of sugar, and add to the milk, and set away to cool. Half an hour before serving, beat the whites stiff, and cut them in lightly. Bake in a buttered pudding-dish in a moderate oven thirty minutes, and serve at once with creamy sauce. This mixture may be put into buttered paper cases, and baked ten or fifteen minutes. Serve in the papers. Sponge Pudding. ^ cup sugar, cup flour. 1 pint milk, boiled. {Miss Alice Walcott.) 34 cup butter. Yolks of 5 eggs. Whites of 5 eggs. Mix the sugar and flour, wet with a little cold milk, and stir into the boiling milk. Cook until it thickens and is smooth ; add the butter, and when well mixed stir it into the well-beaten yolks of the eggs, then add the whites beaten stiff. Bake in cups, or in a shallow dish, or in paper cases, in a hot oven. Place the dish in a pan of hot water while in the oven. Serve with creamy sauce. Bread Pudding. One pint of fine stale bread crumbs, soaked one hour in one quart of milk. Beat two eggs ; mix one quarter of a cup of sugar, one teaspooriful of salt, one saltspoonful of nutmeg or cinnamon, and one tablespoonful of softened butter. Stir into the eggs, and then stir all into the milk. Bake one hour in a buttered pudding-dish. Add one cup of raisins, and on have a Plum Pudding. The raisins should be first boiled, at least one hour, in water to cover, till plump and soft, as they will not cook 22 338 The Boston Cook Book. sufficiently in the baking. Four eggs may be used when a richer pudding is desired. And this becomes the Queen of .Puddings by leaving out the whites, and after baking spreading a layer of jam over the top, then a meringue of the whites, and browning slightly. French Bread Pudding. — Butter small thin slices of nice bread., spread with apple jelly., and lay them looselv in a quart pudding-dish, filling it about half full. Pour over them one quart of boiled custard^ and cover with a meringue. Brown the meiingue and serve cold. Or put the prepared bread in a buttered mould lined with maca- roons, cover with the custard, steam one hour, and serve hot. Plymouth Indian Meal Pudding. {Mrs. Faunce.) Mix one cup of yellow corn meal., one cup of molasses., and one teaspoonful of salt. Pour on one quart of boiling milk., add one tablespoonful of butter, three pints of cold milk, and one cup of cold water, or two eggs. Bake in a deep, well-buttered pudding-dish, holding at least three quarts. Bake veiy slowl}' seven or eight hours. Do not stir, but cover with a plate if it bake too fast. One cup of currants may be used to give variet3\ Baked Indian Meal Pudding (made quickly). Boil one quart of milk. Pour it gradually' on three tablespoonfuls of granulated Indian meal. Put it back in the double boiler, and boil one hour, stirring often. Then add one heaping tablespoonful of butter, one tea- spoonful of salt, half a cup of molasses, two eggs, and one quart of cold milk. Mix well, pour into a well-buttered dish, and bake one hour. Eat with cream or butter. Whole-Wheat Pudding. (Mss Helen Spaulding.) Mix two cups of whole-wheat flour, half a teaspoonful of soda, and half a teaspoonful of salt. Add one cup of milk, half a cup of molasses, and one cup of stoned and chopped raisins, or one cup of ripe berries. Steam two The Boston Cook Book. 339 hours and a half, and serve with cream or any plain pudding sauce. One cup of dates, figs, stewed prunes, or chopped apple makes a pleasing variety. This is an economical pudding, wholesome for children and invalids when served with cream, and rich enough to suit any one when served with creamy ov foamy sauce. Steamed Fruit Pudding. 1 pint flour. 2 teaspoonfuls baking-powder. H teaspoonful salt. 1 cup milk. 2 tablespoonfuls melted butter. 2 eggs. cup sugar. 1 pint berries, or ripe fruit or cut small, or 1 cup raisins, stoned and halved. Mix the baking-powder and salt with the flour ; add the milk and melted butter. Beat the yolks of the eggs, add the sugar, and beat them well into the dough. Then add the whites of the eggs, beaten stiff; and then the fruit, well rolled in flour. Steam two hours, and serve with lemon or foamy sauce. Steamed Suet and Fruit Pudding. 23^ cups flour. 1 teaspoonful soda. 3^ teaspoonful salt. 3^ saltspoonful cinnamon. 3^ saltspoonful nutmeg. 1 cup chopped suet, or 3^ cup butter. 1 cup chopped raisins or currants. 1 cup water or milk. 1 cup molasses. Sift the soda, salt, and spice into the flour, rub in the butter, and add the raisins. Mix the milk with the molasses, and stir it into the dry mixture. Steam in a buttered pudding- mould three hours. Serve with foamy sauce. If water and butter be used, three cups of flour will be required, as these thicken less than milk and S7/,et. This ^pudding is sometimes steamed in small stone cups. Cabinet Pudding. Butter a melon mould, and decorate it with candied fruit, or with raisins boiled till soft and seeded ; then put 340 The Boston Cook Booh in a layer of lady fingers or stale sponge cake, then a few pieces of fruit, and repeat till the mould is nearly full. Pour one pint of boiling milk into the yolks of three eggs, beaten with three tablespoonfuls of sugar and half a salt- spoonful of salt. Pour over the cake in the mould. Set the mould in a pan of warm water on the back of the stove half an hour, then bake one hour, keeping it in the pan of hot water. Or steam it one hour. Serve hot with wine or foamy sauce. Six macaroons or six cocoanut cakes may also be used, and the custard may be flavored with wine. Christmas Plum Pudding. {Mrs. J. M. Towne.) One pint and a half of grated bread crumbs (soft, not dried), one pint of chopped suet, one pint and a half of currants and stoned raisins mixed, half a cup of citron shaved thin, one scant cup of sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, five eggs, two even tablespoonfuls of flour, made into a thin batter with milk, and half a glass of brandy. Mix in the order given, and boil or steam four hours. Serve with yellow sauce. Thanksgiving Plum Pudding. {Mrs. S. M. Bailey.') Six butter crackers, rolled fine, and soaked in three pints of milk. Cream one quarter of a cup of butter with one cup of sugar ; add half a teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of mixed spice, and six well-beaten eggs. Stir it all into the milk, and add one pound of the best raisins. Bake in a deep pudding-dish, well greased with cold butter. Bake very slowly in a moderate oven three or four hours. Stir several times during the first hour, to keep the raisins from settling. Make half of this receipt, and steam it in a pudding-mould. Butter the mould, and line it with macaroons. The Boston Cook Book. 341 CUSTARDS, JELLIES, AND CREAMS. Irish Moss Blanc-Mange. 3^ cup Irish moss. I 1 saltspoonful salt. 1 quart milk. 1 1 teaspoonful vanilla. Soak the moss in cold water fifteen minutes ; pick over, wash, tie in a lace bag, and put it into the double boiler with the milk. Boil until the milk thickens when dropped on a cool plate. Add the salt ; strain and flavor. Mould in small cups or in egg-shells. Break off a piece as large as a ten-cent piece on one end of the egg-shell, pour out the egg, rinse the shells, stand them upright in a pan of meal, and fill with the blanc-mange. Serve blanc- mange with sugar and cream ^ also with apple or grape jelly ; or put half a peach or an}’^ candied fruit in the bot- tom of the cup before filling. Blanc-mange may be made by using one tablespoon- ful of sea-moss farina. Stir it into the boiling milk, and cook twenty minutes. Or use three tablespoonfuls of Hecker's farina in the same way. Cornstarch and gela- tine are often used, but they are neither palatable nor nutritious without eggs. Chocolate Pudding. — Use the same proportion of moss and milk as in the preceding rule. Put one square of chocolate \\\. a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls each of sugar and water. Stir, and boil until smooth ; add a little of the milk, until thin enough to pour easily, then mix it well with the remainder of the milk. Add the moss, and boil till thick. 342 The Boston Cook Book, Danish Pudding, or Fruit Tapioca. ^ cup pearl tapioca. 1^ pint boilirjg water. ^ cup sugar. tumbler currant jelly. 1 saltspoonful salt. Pick over and wash the tapioca. Put it in the double boiler with the boiling water, and cook one hour, or till soft and transparent, stirring often. Add the salt, sugar, and currant jelly. Stir till the jelly is all dissolved. Pour into a glass dish, and keep on ice. Serve ver}’ cold with sugar and cream. Half a cup of lemon juice., or any acid fruit syrup, or one cup of canned apricot, peach, or quince, may be used instead of the jelly. Or, in summer, use one pint of ripe berries, or any small fruits, adding more sugar as required. Fruit Pudding. — Cook one quart of ripe berries or canned peaches or apricots with one pint of water, and sugar to taste, till the fruit is well scalded. Skim out the fruit into a dish for serving. Wet one scant cupful of fine granulated wheat flour in a little cold water, stir it into the boiling syrup ; cook ten minutes, and pour it over the fruit. Serve very cold with cream. Scald the milk. Beat the yolks, add the sugar and salt, and beat well. Pour the hot milk slowl}^ into the eggs, and when well mixed pour all back into the double boiler, and stir constantly till smooth and thick like cream. Strain, and when cool add the flavoring. Do not stir the egg into the hot milk, as there is danger of curdling, and a part of the egg will be left in the bowl. Scalding the milk hastens the process, so that less stirring is required. When nearly thick enough, the foam on the top disappears, and the custard coats the spoon ; but the surest test is Boiled Custard. 1 pint milk. Yolks of 3 eggs. 3 tablespoonfuls sugar. saltspoonful salt. y^ teaspoonful vanilla. The Boston Cook Book, 343 given by the sense of feeling. You are conscious that the custard is thicker by the way the spoon goes through it. Do not leave the custard an instant ; take it off as soon as it is smooth, as it will thicken in cooling, and curdles quickly if cooked a moment too long or if left in the boiler. Have a fine strainer placed in a bowl or pitcher before you begin to cook the custard, that you may strain it quickly. Boiled custard, when to be used as a sauce, should be thin enough to pour ; when to be served as a custard, it should be cooked a moment longer, to make it thicker. Four or even^?;e eggs to a pint of milk may be used when a rich custard is desir^. But three are sufficient for nearly’ all purposes. Boiled custard is much smoother when only the yolks of the eggs are used. Many combinations may be made by adding the whites of the eggs after the custard is cold. Beat the whites stiff, put them on a sieve, and cook over steam, or pour boiling water through them. The water will cook and stiffen the egg, and when well drained it ma}' be piled in rock}’ form on the custard. Or the white may be poached by dipping it by the spoonful into boiling milk. Serve the custard in a large glass dish, and pile the white in a mass, or put spoonfuls of it here and there on the cus- tard, with bright-colored jelly on the white ; or serve in small glass custard cups with the white and jelly on the top. Or pour the custard* over slices of sponge cake (soaked in wine, if you prefer), and cover with a meringue of the whites sweetened and flavored. Floating Island., Flummery Tipsy Pudding., and hosts of other dishes are only fancy names given to the different combinations of cake, boiled custard, and meringue. Any of the following ingredients may be used as flavor- ing ; this will give a variety of dishes, which want of space prevents us from giving as separate receipts : half a square of chocolate., melted ; the three tahlespoonfuls of sugar melted to a caramel before mixing with the yolks ; one cup of grated cocoanut., or cocoanut cakes crumbled ; six mac- aroons soaked in wine; one cup of chopped almonds or 344 The Boston Cook Book. any of the varieties of candied fruits; four oranges, peeled, seeded, and cut fine ; one pint of any canned fruit ; one pint of lemon, wine, or orange jelly, cut in cubes^. Or color the meringue pink by beating three tablespoon- fuls of bright-colored jelly with the whites ; or brown it with a salamander or hot poker, or by putting the dish ^ on a board in the oven. Baked or Steamed Custard. 1 quart milk. 6 tablespoonfuls sugar. 6 eggs. 1 saltspoonful salt. Scald the milk. Beat the^ eggs ; add the sugar and salt, then the scalded milk. Strain, add a little nutmeg, and bake about twenty minutes in a deep dish or in cups set in a pan of warm water ; or steam in a bowl or in cups. Test the custard with a spoon ; if it come out clean, the custard is done. Caramel Custard. cup sugar. 2 tablespoonfuls water. 1 quart milk. 6 eggs. teaspoonful salt. 1 teaspoonful vanilla. Put the sugar in an omelet pan, and stir until it melts and is light brown ; add the water, and stir into the warm milk. Beat the eggs slightly,, add the salt and vanilla and part of the milk. Strain into the remainder of the milk, and pour into a buttered two-quart mould. Set the mould in a pan of warm water, and bake thirU’ to fortj'^ minutes, or till firm. Cut into the middle with a knife ; if it come out clean, the custard is done. Serve cold with caramel sauce. Delicate Pudding. 1 cup water. 1 cup fruit juice. 3 tablespoonfuls cornstarch. y^ saltspoonful salt. Sugar to taste. 3 eggs. Boil the water and fruit juice (orange, lemon, or canned cherries, quince, or apricot). Wet the cornstarch in a little The Boston Cook Book, 345 cold water, stir into the boiling syrup, and cook ten min- utes. Add the salt and sugar to taste ; the quantity de- pending upon the fruit. Beat the whites of the eggs till foamy, and stir into the starch. Turn at once into a mould. Serve cold with a l)0%led custard sauce made with the yolks of the eggs. Apple Snow. 3 large tart apples. cup powdered sugar. 3 eggs (whites). }i cup jelly. Stew or steam the apples (cored and quartered, but not pared), drain, and then rub them through a hair sieve. Beat the white's of the eggs stiff, add the sugar, beat again ; add the apple, and beat till like snow. Pile lightly in a glass dish, garnish with jelly or holly leaves. Serve with boiled custard. Tapioca Cream. 2 tablespoonfuls pearl tapioca. 1 pint milk. Yolks of 2 eggs, cup sugar. y saltspoonful salt. Whites of 2 eggs. y teaspoonful vanilla. Soak the tapioca in hot water enough to cover it, in the top of the double boiler placed on the back of the stove. When the water is absorbed, add the milk, and cook until the tapioca is soft and transparent. Beat the yolks of the eggs, add the sugar and salt. Pour the boiling mixture on them, and cook two or three minutes, or till it thickens like boiled custard. Remove from the fire, add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a foam. Stir well, and when cool flavor. Do not try to mould it, as it is more delicate when soft. Jellies and Fancy Dishes made with Gelatine, Custard, and Cream. Gelatine, as now obtained, is refined and clarified during the process of manufacture, and this renders it unnecessaiy to use the white of egg in making jellies, as was required 346 The Boston Cook Book, when using the old preparation of isinglass and gelatine. Much of the strength and flavor of jellies is lost in clearing them with eggs. Use Cox’s gelatine for jellies and Nel- son’s for cream. Cox’s gelatine makes the clearest jell}', and the fish}^ taste is destro}’ed by the strong flavoring used in making wine, lemon, or orange jelly. Nelson’s gelatine is finer, softens quicker, and has a more agree- able flavor. It is therefore better adapted to creams and delicate dishes. Never cook gelatine. Soak (not dissolve) it in cold water, in the proportion of one cup of cold water to one box of gelatine. It will soften in fifteen minutes, if stirred often. Then dissolve in boiling liquid, — .either water, milk, or custard, — and always strain through a fine strainer after it is dissolved. 3 tablespoonfuls sugar. Soak the gelatine in the cold water till soft, then dis- solve it in boiling water. Make a custard with the 3*olks of the eggs, beaten, and mixed with the sugar and salt. Pour on the hot milk, and cook in the double boiler till it thickens. Then add the strained gelatine water, the vanilla, and the whites of the eggs, beaten stiff. Mix all well, and turn into moulds wet in cold water. Place in ice water, and when hard and ready to serve turn out on a dish. Italian Cream. — Use the same proportions as in the preceding receipt. Dissolve the soaked gelatine in the hot custard instead of in hot water, and strain the whole while hot into the beaten whites. When well mixed, add lemon or vanilla., and pour into a mould. Quaking Custard. — The same proportions as in Span- Gelatine Pudding, or Spanish Cream. ^ box gelatine. ^ cup cold water. ^ cup boiling water. Yolks of 3 eggs. saltspoonful salt. 1 pint milk. Whites of 3 eggs. 1 teaspoonful vanilla. The Boston Cook Book. 347 ish Cream. Dissolve the soaked gelatine in the hot cus- tard, and strain into a mould. When ready to serve, beat the whites of the eggs stiff, add three heaping table- spoonfuls oi powdered sugar., and \hQ juice of one lemon. Turn the custard on a platter, and heap the meringue around it. Snow Pudding. box gelatine, cup cold water. 1 cup boiling water. 1 cup sugar. ^ cup lemon juice. Whites of 3 eggs. Yolks of 3 eggs. 3 tablespoonfuls sugar* 34 saltspoonful salt. 1 pint hot milk. 34 teaspoonful vanilla. Soak the gelatine in the cold water fifteen minutes, or until soft. Then dissolve it in the boiling water ; add the sugar and lemon juice. Stir till the sugar is dissolved. Strain into a large bowl, and set in ice water to cool. Stir occasionally. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and when the gelatine begins to thicken, add the beaten whites, and beat all together till very light. When nearly stiff enough to drop, pour into a mould. Or beat until stiff enough to hold its shape, if your strength will allow, and pile lightly in a tall glass dish. Make a boiled custard of the 3^olks of the eggs, the sugar, salt, and milk, and when cool flavor with vanilla. Serve the sauce in a pitcher. Or, if the snow be moulded, turn it out on a dish, and pour the sauce around the pudding. The snow ma}^ be turned into a shallow dish, two inches deep, to harden, and when read}' to serve cut into blocks and piled like a pj'ramid. Blocks of lemon or wine jelly., mixed with the snow or sparkling jelly (jelly broken up lightl}' with a fork), make a pleasing variet}'. If the whites of the eggs be added to the gelatine mixture before it becomes cold, as is directed in man}' re- ceipts, more time will be required for the beating. Many have never made the dish a second time on account of the time and strength expended. Fifteen minutes is suflScient when made according to this receipt. 348 The Boston Cook Book. Charlotte. Orange ^ box gelatine, cup cold water, cup boiling water. 1 cup sugar. Juice of 1 lemon. 1 cup orange juice and pulp. 3 eggs (whites). Line a mould or bowl with lady fingers or sections of oranges. Soak the gelatine in cold water till soft. Pour on the boiling water, add the sugar and the lemon juice. Strain and add the orange juice and pulp with a little of the grated rind. Cool in a pan of ice water. Beat the whites of the eggs stiflf, and when the orange jelly be- gins to harden beat it till light. Add the beaten whites, and beat together till stiff enough to drop. Pour into the mould. One pint of whipped cream may be used instead of the whites of the eggs, or it may be piled on the top after the Charlotte is removed from the mould. Apple Charlotte. — One cup of cooked sour apple (steamed, drained, and sifted) ma}’^ be used in place of the orange in the preceding receipt. Line the mould with lady fingers or sponge cake, and serve a boiled custard^ made with the j'olks of the eggs, as a sauce. Or use one cup of canned peach., pineapple., or apricot., or one pint of fresh strawberries or raspberries. Mash and rub the fruit through a sieve before using. Fig. 45. Orange Charlotte. Fruit Charlotte. ^ box gelatine. cup cold water. 1 cup sugar. cup water and 1 cup lemon juice, or 1 pint orange juice and 1 cup water. Yolks of 4 eggs. Whites of 4 eggs. 1 dozen lady fingers. The Boston Cook Book. 349 Soak the gelatine in cold water till soft. Make a syrup with the sugar and fruit juice. When boiling, pour it into the beaten yolks of the eggs. Stir well, and cook in a double boiler till it thickens. Add the soaked gelatine, stir till dissolved, and strain at once into a granite pan placed in ice water. Beat occasionally till cold, but not hard. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiflf froth, and then beat all together till it thickens. When almost stiff enough to drop, pour at once into moulds lined with cake. Keep on ice, and serve with or without powdered sugar and cream. Vary the fruit by stewing one pint of canned peaches^ pineapple^ or apricots in one cup each of sugar and water till soft, then sift, add the yolks of the eggs, and cook till it thickens. Add the gelatine, strain, and when cool add the whites. Grated pineapple will not require sifting. Velvet Cream. (Miss Ward.) 3^ box gelatine. cup sugar. 1)4 cup sherry wine. pint cream. 1 lemon (grated rind and juice). Soak the gelatine in the wine, add the lemon and sugar, and heat all together till the gelatine is dissolved. Then strain and set it awa}" to cool. When nearly cold, but before it begins to stiffen, add the cream. Beat till nearly stiff enough to drop, then pour it into moulds and set it on ice until stiff as blanc-mange. Wine Jelly. ^ box gelatine. ^ cup cold water. 1 pint boiling water. Juice of 1 lemon. 1 cup sugar. 1 cup sherry or S. M. wine. Soak the gelatine in cold water fifteen minutes, or until soft. Add the boiling water, lemon juice, sugar, and wine. Stir well, and strain through a fine napkin into a shallow dish. Keep in ice water till hard. When ready to serve, cut in cubes or diamonds, or break it up lightly 350 The Boston Cook Book, with a fork. If j’ou wish to mould it, or to use for mould- ing creams, add onl}^ two thirds of a pint of boiling water. Orange JeUy. box gelatine, cup cold water. 1 cup boiling water. Juice of 1 lemon. 1 cup sugar. 1 pint orange juice. Soak the gelatine in cold water until soft. Add the boiling water, the lemon juice, sugar, and orange juice. Stir till the sugar is dissolved, and strain. Or use one cup of orange juice and one scant pint of boiling water one lemon^ one scant cup of sugar^ and two tablespoonfuls of brandy. Lemon Jelly. 34 box gelatine. 1 scant cup cold water. 1 pint boiling water. 1 cup sugar. 34 cup lemon juice (large). 1 square-inch stick cinnamon. Soak the gelatine in the cold water till soft. Shave the lemon rind thin, using none of the white. Steep it with the cinnamon in the pint of boiling water ten minutes, then add the soaked gelatine, sugar, and lemon juice, and when dissolved strain. Italian Jelly, or Fruit Moulded in Jelly. 34 box gelatine. 34 cup cold water. Rind and juice of 1 lemon. 1 scant cup boiling water. 1 cup sugar. 1 pint orange juice. 1 cup fruit. Soak the gelatine in the cold water till soft. Shave the rind of the lemon, using only the yellow part, and soak w'ith the gelatine. Pour on the boiling water ; add the sugar, lemon juice, and orange juice. Strain through a fine napkin into a pitcher, or something from which it can be poured. Wet a mould in cold water, and pack it in a pan of ice. Put in a layer of jelly half an inch deep and harden it, then a layer of candied fruit or sections of The Boston Cook Book, 351 oranges^ fastening each piece of fruit in place with a little jelly before adding enough to cover the fruit, otherwise the fruit will float. Repeat till the mould is full. Place the pitcher where the jelly will keep liquid but not hot, and be sure that every piece of fruit is firmly in place before add- ing more. This may be made with lemon or loine jelly. A variety of designs may be made by arranging different colors of fruit; and it well repays one for the trouble, which seems ver}’ slight after the first attempt. Do not devote 3’our whole morning to it, but look at it occasion- ally^ while you are doing other things, adding fruit and jelly as required ; and before you are conscious of it, the dish will be prepared. Orange Baskets. — Cut as many oranges as will be re- quired, leaving half the peel whole for the baskets, and a strip half an inch wide for the handle. Remove the pulp Fig. 46. Orange Baskets. and juice, and use the juice in making orange jelly. Place the baskets in a pan of broken ice to keep upright. Fill with orange jelly. When ready to serve, put a sx>oonful of whipped cream over the jelly in each basket. Serve in a bed of orange or laurel leaves. No. 2. — With a vegetable cutter cut out several small portions of the peel in the basket and handle, to give an open-work effect, and fill with a mixture of orange., wine, and lemon jelly, cut into inch dice and piled lightly in the baskets. Or the baskets may be filled with Bavarian cream. Orange Sections. — Cut off a small portion from the end of the orange, and scoop out the pulp and juice. Be careful not to break through the skin. Fill them with 352 The Boston Cook Book. orange jelly which is thoroughly cold, but not hard, and place them upright in a pan of broken ice. When hard, cut each orange in quarters, and serve garnished with green leaves. Imperial Cream. ' Make the rule for Lemon Jelly (page 550), and color part of it pink with cochineal or cranberry juice. Harden it in a shallow pan. Make Snow Pudding (page 347) , and when nearly stiff enough to drop, stir in small squares of the pink and lemon jelly. Mould, and when ready to serve, turn out on a dish, garnish the base and top with maca- roons soaked in wine. Pour rich boiled custard round the dish, and put macaroons and cubes of the jellies in the custard. Whipped Cream. Many wholesome, delicious, and attractive dishes may be made with whipped cream. To those who can obtain plenty of cream, these dishes afford a cheaper, more easil}^ prepared, and far more satisfactory course than pie and many forms of hot puddings. Many of them are equall}^ suitable for tea. Very rich cream should be diluted and well mixed with an equal quantity of milk. The best quality of cream obtained from the milkman is usuallj^ of the proper consistenc}\ Thin cream will become liquid after whipping, and thick cream will turn to butter. The cream should alwa3’s be icj^ cold ; when it is to be served as a garnish, or for cream whips, it should be sweetened and flavored before it is whipped. A whip churn is the best utensil for whipping cream. This is a tin cylinder, perforated at the bottom and sides, and having a perforated dasher. W^hen the churn is placed in a bowl of cream, and the dasher worked up and down, the air is forced from the c^dinder into the cream, causing it to become light and frothy. A DoA'er egg-beater will make the cream light, but it has a diflerent consistency from that obtained b}'^ churning. The Boston Cook Book. 353 To Whip Cream. — Place a bowl half filled with cream in a pan of broken ice. When very cold, put the churn into the cream, hold the cylinder firmly, and keep the cover in place with the left hand. Tip the churn slightly, that the cream maj’ flow out at the bottom. Work the dasher with a light short stroke iip^ and a hard., pxishing stroke down. When the froth appears, stir it down once or twice, as the first bubbles are too large ; and when the bowl full of froth, skim it off into a granite pan placed on ice. Take off froth onl}', and do not take it off below the holes in the cylinder, as it whips better when the}" are covered. For this reason never whip a pint of cream in a three- quart bowl, and do not try to whip it all, as usuall}" a little is left in the bowl Which is too thin to whip. One pint of cream should treble in whipping. If for a garnish, drain the whipped cream on a hair sieve placed over a pan, and keep it on ice till stiff enough to keep its shape. Creams that are to be moulded are made stifler by the addition of gelatine. Cream Whips. {Miss Ward.) 1 pint rich cream. 3^ cup sugar. 1 cup pale sherry wine. Whites of 2 eggs, beaten light. 1 lemon (grated rind and juice). Mix in the order given. Add more sugar if desired. Stir till the sugar is dissolved, then whip it and take off the froth as it rises, and put it on a hair sieve. Fill jelly glasses with the cream left in the bowl, and put the frolli on the top. Newport Whips. {Mrs. JJpham.) — One pint oi cream., sweet or sour, one gill of sweet milk., half a lemon sliced, sugar and wine to taste. Whip, and serve the whip only, in jelly glasses. If prepared in a covered bowl or tureen, the unwhipped cream may be kept for several days, add- ing more cream, sugar, and wine to taste, and whipping as required for use. 23 354 The boston Cook Book, Charlotte Russe (Cream). 1 pint rich cream. cup sugar. 1 teaspoonful vanilla. Sponge cake. • Mix the cream, vanilla, and sugar. Place the bowl in ice water, and when chilled whip to a stiff fi-oth, and skim off the froth into a sieve. Drain, and whip again that which has drained through. When nearl3’ all whipped, line a glass dish with lad^" fingers or sponge cake, fill with the cream, put cubes of wine jelly or any bright jelly on the cream, and keep on ice till ready to serve. Charlotte Russe, No. 2 (Cream and Eggs). 1 pint rich cream. 1 teaspoonful vanilla. 1 tablespoonful wine. Whites of 2 eggs. 1 cup powdered sugar. Sponge cake. Flavor the cream with vanilla and wine, and whip to a stiff froth. Beat the whites of the eggs stiff, add the pow- dered sugar, and mix it lightly with the whipped cream. Keep it on ice till it stiffens. Line small cups or paper moulds with sponge cake, and fill with the cream. Or fill fanc3" paper cases with cream, and ornament each with thin triangles of sponge cake and a cube of wine jelly. A small part of the cream may be colored with melted chocolate or cochineal^ and used for decoration. Charlotte Russe, No. 3 (with Gelatine). {Miss Parloa.) box gelatine. y^ cup cold water. 1 pint cream. 1 dozen lady fingers. y^ cup powdered sugar. 1 teaspoonful vanilla 1 tablespoonful wine. y^ cup boiling water Soak the gelatine in the cold water till softened. Chill the cream. Line a three-pint mould with lad}* fingers or narrow slices of sponge cake, crust side out ; leave a little space between the slices, and have the cake even at the top. Whip the cream, and skim off into a granite The Boston Cook Book. 355 pan set in ice water. Sift the powdered sugar over the whipped cream, and add the vanilla and wine. Dissolve the gelatine in the boiling water, and strain through a fine strainer over the whipped cream. Then stir (not beat) rapidly with the bowl of the spoon resting on the bottom of the pan. Turn the pan with the left hand while stirring with the right. If it feel lumpy, lift the pan from the ice and place it in warm water to melt the gela- tine. Stir till the gelatine is well mixed with the cream, and when nearly stiff enough to drop, turn it into the mould. Keep on ice, and when ready to serve, turn out and garnish the top jelly. This filling may be used in paper cases as directed in 1 pint cream. Soak the gelatine in cold water till soft. Chill and whip the cream till }’'Ou have three pints of the whip. Boil the remainder of the cream (or if it be all whipped, use a cup of milk) with the sugar ; and when boiling add the soaked gelatine. Stir till dissolved. Strain into a granite pan, add the vanilla or lemon, and wine if you wish ; or flavor with two tablespoonfuls of melted choco- late.^ or one quarter of a cup of strong coffee. Place the pan in ice water, stir occasionall}^ and when the mixture is thoroughly cold and beginning to thicken, stir in lightly the whipped cream. When nearly stiff enough to drop, pour into the moulds. This cream is sometimes moulded in small cups. Put half of a canned apricot ox peach., or three sections of orange., or several small cherries., or a candied plum., in the bottom of the cup before filling with the cream. • Or line a bowl with whole strawberries and fill with the cream. This is called a Strawberry Charlotte. Bed ba- nanas sliced may be used in the same manner. No. 1. Plain Bavarian Cream. ^ box gelatine. 34 cup cold water. 34 cup sugar. 1 teaspoonful vanilla. 356 The Boston Cook Book. Riz a r Imperatrice. — Prepare the cream as for Bava- rian Cream ; put one cup of cooked rice in the hot milk^ and stir till eveiy grain is distinct, then proceed as directed in the preceding receipt. Bavarian Cream, No. 2 (with Eggs). box gelatine, cup cold water. 1 pint cream. 1 pint milk. 4 eggs (yolks). 34 cup sugar. 34 saltspoonful salt. 1 teas])oonful vanilla 1 tablespoonful wine. Soak the gelatine in cold water till soft. Chill and whip the cream till 3'ou have three pints. Keep the whipped cream on ice, and boil the remainder of the cream, addino- enough milk to make a pint in all. Beat the yolks of the eggs, and add the sugar and salt. Pour the boiling milk on the eggs, and when well mixed put back in the double boiler and cook about two minutes, or just enough to scald the egg. Stir constantly, add the soaked gela- tine, and strain at once into a pan set in ice water. When cool, add the vanilla and wine, or half a cuj) of orange juice. Stir till it begins to harden, then stir in quickl}’ the whipped cream, and when nearlj* stiff enough to drop, pour into moulds wet in cold water. Chocolate Bavarian Cream. — Melt two sticks of sweetened chocolate.^ and stir them into the custard before straining. Coffee Bavarian Cream. — Add one quarter of a cup of very clear., strong black coffee. Or boil half a cup of ground cojfee in the milk, before straining it over the eggs. Bavarian Cream with Fruit. 1 quart berries. 1 cup sugar. 34 box gelatine. 34 cup cold water. 34 cup boiling water. 1 pint cream. Strawberries or Raspberries. — Mash the berries with . the sugar ; let them stand till the sugar is dissolved. Strain through a sieve fine enough to keep back the seeds. Soak The Boston Cook Book. 357 the gelatine in the cold water, tlien dissolve in the boiling water, and strain it into the berry juiee. Cool, and beat till slio-htlv thickened ; add the cream (whipped), and mould it in a plain mould, or lined like a Charlotte. Pineajyple. — Stew a can of grated pineapple with one cup of sugar ten minutes, and use in the same manner without sifting. Peaches and Apricots. — Mash and sift one can of peaches or apricots (u&q juice andy’n/i^), and stew with a heaping cup of sugar., and use as above. Norfolk Cream. — Line a mould with one pound of can- died pliims^ having first removed the stones, and spread the plums out as thin as possible. Make the plain Bava- rian cream., and when thick enough to drop, take out one third of it and color with cochineal; add half a cup of candied cherries cut in halves. Put a layer of the white Fig. 47. Mould of Bavarian Cream garnished with Whipped Cream and Fruit. cream next to the plums, and fill the centre with the pink. When ready to serve, loosen the edges with a knife and invert carefull}’. Garnish with whipped cream. Mock Canteloupe. — Mould the yellow Bavarian cream in a melon mould lined with lady fingers., and when ready to serve, turn out on a dish and sprinkle the top of the cream thicklj^ with chopped pistachio nuts., or any green fruit, plums., or angelica. Garnish with whipped cream and candied fruit. Prune Pudding. i^Mrs. A. A. Lincoln.') — Make a small mould of lemon jelly. Boil large selected prunes slowl}' until very tender, taking care to keep the skins unbroken. Drain and place in a glass dish. Break up 358 The Boston Cook Book, the jell}^ all about them, so that it will have the appearance of being made together. Pile whipped cream^ prepared as for Charlotte Russe, No. 1, over the prunes and jelly. Creme Diplomate. box gelatine, cold water. 1 pint cream. ^ cup sugar. {Miss M, L. Clarke.') 4 eggs (whites) 1 teaspoonful vanilla. 1 tablespoonful wine. 1 cup French fruit. Soak the gelatine in the cold water. Chill and whip the cream. Boil the cream left in the bowl with milk enough to make a pint in all. Add the sugar, and when boiling add the soaked gelatine. Stir until dissolved, and strain it into the well-beaten whites of the eggs. Add the vanilla, and the wine, if you approve. Stir well, and when slightly thickened add the whipped cream. When stiff enough to drop, add the French fruit. Mould it, and garnish with wine jelly fruit., and green leaves. Or add one pint of blanched almonds ov pistachio nuts., chopped fine, instead of the fruit. Combinations of Jelly, Cream, Custard, and Cake. Boyal Diplomatic Pudding. {Miss Parloa.) — Make lemon, orange, or wine jelly, using only two thirds of a pint of boiling water, that it ma}’ be stiff enough to mould. Strain it into a pitcher. Place a two-quart mould in a pan of ice water ; pour in jelly half an inch Fio. 48. Royal Diplomatic Pudding. deep. AVhen hard, put in candied fruit in some fanciful design. Cut cherries in halves, and cut plums to represent leaves, and arrange them like a cluster of cherries ; or cut the cherries smaller, and design a branch of barberries. Fasten each piece of fruit in place The Boston Cook Book. 359 with a few drops of the liquid jell}', and when hard add jellv to cover the fruit. When this is hard, place a smaller mould in the centre on the jell}' and till with ice. Pour the remainder of the jelly between the two moulds, adding it slowly, and dropping in fruit here and there, if you choose, until the mould is full. When the jelly is all firm, remove the ice, and add warm^ not hot^ water to the smaller mould, and take it out carefully, without breaking the wall of jelly. Fill the space with a Bavarian cream (page 356). Make a rich soft custard with the yolks of five eggs^ half a cup of sugar ^ and a pint of milk ; strain, and flavor with vanilla. When ready to serve, dip the mould in warm water, jiut a dish over it, and invert dish and mould together. Remove the mould carefull}’, and pour the soft custard around the pudding. Make the soft custard while the jelly is hardening ; and do not put the materials for the Bavarian cream together until the small mould is removed from the jelly, and the cavit}' ready for the cream. Do not turn out of the mould until just before it goes to the table, as the slightest jarring breaks the jell}'. A coffee cup within a quart bowl, and a small pail within a larger one, have been successfully used by those who had no moulds. A variety of dishes may be made by using the differ- ent colored jellies and fruits ; and any of the creams stiff enough to mould can be used as Ailing. Snow Pudding. or Creme Biplomate and Wine Jelly., Norfolk Cream and Lemon Jelly., Orange Sponge and Orange Jelly., are attractive combinations. It may also be made in two sizes of small moulds, serving one mould to each person. Gateau St. JLonore. — Line a pie plate with thin puff paste., prick with a fork, and bake light brown. Make a cream cake paste (see Index), press it through a pastry bag round the edge of a jelly cake tin, and bake the re- mainder in balls the size of walnuts. Place the puff paste on a plate, and spread with raspberry jam or orange mar- malade. Lay the border of cream cake paste on the edge, and press it into the marmalade. Fill the centre with any 36o The Boston Cook Book, kind of Bavarian cream. Garnish with the cream cake balls and Jruit. Use orange sections with orange marma- lade, and candied cherries and plums with raspberry jam. Sponge cake ov feather cake., baked thin in a round tin plate, is more delicate than puff paste as a foundation for the gateau. Gdteau de Brincess Louise. — Bake sponge drop mix- ture or feather cake or snow cake in jell}’’ cake tins. Cut the centre from one cake, leaving a rim one inch and a half wide. Put jelly on the remaining cake, lay the rim on the edge, and fill the centre with Bavarian cream. Garnish with candied fruit. Frost the rim if 30U prefer. Chantilly Baskets. — Dip the edges of soft flexible macaroons in syrup, prepared as for ciystallized fruit, and form them into a basket on a fanc}' plate, something as children shape a burr basket. A rim and handle of paste- board aid in keeping the shape. When dr}', fill with an}' fancy Bavarian cream.. Fio. 49. Strawberry Charlotta The Boston Cook Book, 361 ICE-CREAM AND SHERBET. A GOOD ice-cream freezer should be in every kitchen ; for with it a great variety of wholesome and attractive dishes may be prepared with very little expenditure of time and strength. Fruit, cream, and eggs, .when frozen, are more palatable in hot w^eather than when served in other ways. A deep can, four inches in diameter, with a tight cover fitting outside the can, and packed vi. a firkin with ice and salt, makes a good substitute for a freezer. By scraping the cream from the sides and beating occa- sionall}" with a large bread-knife as the cream freezes, one ma}* have a ver}" smooth quality of cream with verj' little effort. But whether with a patent or home-made freezer, the essential points are to have the ice finely crushed, to use the right proportion of coarse rock salt, and to beat the mixture thoroughly during the freezing. Salt has a great affinit}’ for water, and when mixed with broken ice it unites with the water ; the ice, in changing from its solid form to a liquid, parts with its heat, and the mixture of melted ice and salt is man}' degrees colder than the ice alone. This is sufficient to reduce to the freezing-point the temperature of any liquid placed in the ice and salt. The finer the ice is crushed, the quicker it melts ; and the more the mixture is stirred, the sooner all parts become chilled. The melted ice and salt should surround the can, and not be drawn off as fast as melted. For this reason it is a mistake to have the outlet for the water in the bot- tom of the firkin. It should be just helow the top of the can, and then the water wdll run out before it can get in- side the can. Draw it off whenever it floats the ice. The ice should be nearly as fine as the salt. Use one part 362 The Boston Cook Book. salt to three or four parts ice. An easy way is to measure each with a saucer or small shallow pan. Put in a layer of ice three inches deep (pack it in solidly) , then a meas- ure of salt (sprinkle it evenly on the ice) , then three meas- ures of ice and one of salt, etc., till the freezer is full. Pack each layer in closely with a wooden paddle, and turn the freezer handle occasionally while packing. Be sure that the freezer works perfectly before adding the cream. The bearings and gears should be kept well oiled. When the cream is thoroughly cold, pour it into the can. Turn slowly at first, and q,fter ten minutes more rapidly, till you can turn no longer. It usually takes about half an hour. Re- move the beater, scrape off the cream, and beat and pack the cream closely in the can. Put a cork into the opening in the cover, and lay the cross-piece over to keep the can down in the ice. Cover with a piece of old carpeting wet in the salt and water. If the ice and salt have been well packed, and the cream is to be served within an hour and not moulded, no more ice will be needed ; but if to be kept longer, draw off the water and pack again. If to be moulded, beat the cream well, and pack into the mould ; cover closely, and bury in ice and salt. After using the freezer, clean and scald the can ; dry thoroughly, and keep it uncovered while not in use. Drain the salt left in the freezer, and use again. A mixture of salt and snow answers when ice cannot be obtained. Use Turk’s Island or coarse rock salt., and 7iot what is called coarse fine salt. This is the simplest, and to many the most delicious, form of ice-cream. Scald the cream ; melt the sugar in it, and flavor when cool. Freeze as directed above. Tlic cream should be very sweet and highl}' flavored, as both sweetness and flavor are lessened by freezing. To make it lighter and more delicate, -whip the cream until }'ou have Ice-Cream, No. 1 (Philadelphia Ice-Cream). 2 quarts cream ; if thick, add 1 pint milk. 2 cups sugar. 2 tablespoonfuls vanilla. The Boston Cook Book, 363 li quart of froth, and add the froth after the cream is partly frozen. Many prefer to add the whites of eggs, beaten till foamy, but not stiff. Use two, three, or four eggs to each quart of cream. The proportion of sugar should vary according to the flavoring used. l^e-Cream, No. 2 (Neapolitan Ice-Cream). 1 quart milk. (G or 8 eggs yolks). 1 cup sugar. 1 pint to 1 quart cream. Sugar to taste. Flavoring. Make a boiled custard with the milk, sugar, and the yolks of the eggs. Cook it slightly till smooth, but not curdled. Strain, and when cool add the cream, sugar to make it quite sweet, and anj^ flavoring desired. The cus- tard, when made with cream instead of milk, makes the richest kind of ice-cream. If cream cannot be obtained, beat the whites of the eggs till foamy, and add them jiffet before freezing. No matter how many eggs are used, a little cream, if not more than half a cupful, is a decided improvement to all ice-creams. It is better to make sher- bet, or fruit and water ices, than an inferior quality of ice- cream with milk. Ice-creams are richei^and mould better when made with gelatine ; but care must be taken to flavor highly, to disguise the taste of the gelatine. Use a quarter of a box of Nelson's gelatine for two quarts of custard. Soak in half a cup of cold milk, and dissolve in the boiling custard just as it is taken from the fire. If by any acci- dent the custard should curdle in cooking, it will be smooth when frozen. Ice-Cream, No. 3. 1 pint milk. 1 cup sugar. 2 tablespoonfuls flour. 1 saltspoonful salt. (Miss Parloa.') 2 eggs. 1 pint to 1 quart cream. to 1 cup sugar. 1 tablesp. flavoring extract. Boil the milk. Mix the sugar, flour, and salt ; add the whole eggs, and beat all together. Add the boiling milk, 364 The Boston Cook Book. and when well mixed turn into the double boiler, and cook twenty minutes, stirring constantly till smooth ; after that, occasionally. When cool, add the cream, flavoring, and sugar to make it quite sweet. This makes a smooth and delicious cream ; and if the milk be boiling and the custard cook fully twenty’ minutes, there will be no taste of the flour. The following flavorings, with either of thesS receipts for a foundation, will give a great many varieties of ice-cream. Vanilla Ice-Cream. — Use one tahlespoonful of Bur- netfs extract or one heaping tablespoonful of the pounded vanilla bean sugar. Lemon Ice- Cream. — One tablespoonful of lemon extract. Chocolate Ice-Cream. — Melt two bars of sweetened vanilla chocolate with one or two tablespoonfuls of water ; a(fd a little cream or custard., and when smooth stir it into the remainder of the custard. Add half a tablespoonful of vanilla. Confectioners sometimes mix half a teaspoon- ful of Ceylon cinnamon with the chocolate. It gives a rich, spic}’ flavor. Coffee Ice- Cre&m. — Make half a cup of very strong black coffee for two quarts of cream ; or boil half a cup of ground coffee in the milk. Caramel Ice- Cream. — Add half a cup of caramel (see page 134), and omit part of the usual amount of sugar. Pineap>ple Ice- Cream. — Add half a can of grated pine- apple or one pint of the ripe fruit, grated. Strawberry Ice-Cream. — Sprinkle sugar over the ber- ries ; mash, and rub through a fine sieve. Measure tlie juice, and use one pint of juice to two quarts of cream or custard. Add more sugar as the berries require. Use the French bottled strawberries when the ripe fruit cannot be obtained. Banana Ice-Cream. — Make a custard with one pint of milk., one cup of sugar ^ and two eggs. When cold, add one pint of cream., and six bananas., sifted, or cut in The Boston Cook Book. 365 thin slices. Add a little lemon juice if the bananas lack flavor. Baked Apple Ice-Cream. — Bake and sift six sweet apples. Add one quart of rich cream., and sugar to taste. When the sugar is dissolved, freeze. Pistachio Ice-Cream. — One cup of pistachio mtts^ and one quarter of a cup of almonds., blanched, chopped, and pounded to a paste. Add this to an}' receipt for ice-cream. Macaroon., Almond^ Walnut., Cocoanut^ or Brown Bread Ice-Creavn may be made by adding one pint of either of the above ingredients to any receipt for ice- cream. Crumble the macaroons and cocoanut cakes, and brown them slightly ; dry, crumble, and sift the brown bread, and chop the nuts fine. Fruit Ice-Cream. — Canned fruit, or ripe fruit sweet- ened to taste, and cut into small pieces, may be added to partly frozen cream, giving many delicious varieties. Use peaches., strawberries., raspberries., pineapples., apricots^ or cherries. Cafe Par fait. — One pint of cream., one cup of sugar., half a cup of strong., clear coffee. Mix, chill, and whip. Take the froth off into a freezer or into a mould. Pack the mould in ice and salt, and let it stand two hours with- out stirring. Glace Cream. — Boil one cup of sugar and one scant cup of water until the syrup forms into a ball when rubbed in water between the finger and thumb. Then pour this syrup in a fine stream into the whites of three eggs beaten stiff, and beat till stiff and cool. Stir it into any frozen cream, made with a little less than the usual amount of sugar. Ice-Cream with Condensed Milk. — Mix one can of condensed milk with three pints of scalded milk., and use in making a rich custard, as directed in rule No. 2. Flavor highly, and add a pound of candied fruit if desired. Tutti Frutti. — Make either of the receipts for ice- cream, and flavor with two tablespoonfuls of Sicily Ma- deira wine or Maraschino. When partly frozen, add one 356 The Boston Cook Book, •pound of French candied fruity cut fine. Use a mixture of cherries^ plums ^ apricots,, pineapples^ pears,, strawber- ries,, and angelica root. Or use home-made preserves, carefull}’ drained from the syrup, and cut into dice. Nesselrode Pudding. — Shell one pint of chestnuts. Blanch, and boil half an hour, then mash to a pulp, and stir into ice-cream made from rule No. 2. Strain, and when partly frozen add one pint of mixed fruit,,' G\xi fine. Frozen Pudding. — Make ice-cream. No. 3 ; add two tablespoonfuls of soaked gelatine,, flavor with wine and vanilla,, and freeze. Cut a pound of French fruit or brandy peaches in small pieces; or use half a pound oi mixed raisins,, currants,, and citron,, and one cup of mac- aroons,, pounded, or one cup of mixed almonds and pista- chio nuts, pounded fine. Wash, and soak the currants and raisins until swollen. Remove the seeds, drain and quarter the raisins, and shave the citron in small thin slices. Mix half the fruit and nuts with the frozen cream. Butter a melon mould slightly, and line with lady fingers; then sprinkle over a layer of mixed fruit, pack in the frozen cream nearl3^ to the top, then a layer of fruit, and cover with cake. Cover closel}’, and bind a strip of buttered cloth round the edge of the cover. Pack in ice and salt for two hours. When read}’^ to serve, dip quickl}* in warm water, and turn out carefull}^ Sprinkle the remainder of the mixed nuts over the top, and garnish with cream, sweetened, flavored, and whipped. Some prefer to serve a rich boiled custard sauce, made with one pint of cream, the yolks of four eggs, half a cup of sugar, and one tea- spoonful of variilla. Boil the milk and cream, and pour it on the beaten eggs and sugar. Cook slightlj’’, and when cool add the fruit, and freeze. Plombiere. {Miss Ward.) 1 quart milk. 1 pint cream. 6 whole eggs. 3 egg yolks. 2 ounces each of preserved cit- ron, greengages, and pine- apple, cut fine. 13^ cup sugar. The Boston Cook Book. 367 Bombe Glace. — Line a mould or the freezer with 07ie quart of raspberry oi* pomegranate sherbet. Pack the sherbet round the bottom and sides of the mould one inch deep. Fill the centre with Bavarian cream., or Charlotte Russe cream, or Creme Diplomate. Cover with the sher- bet, and pack in ice and salt one hour. Biscuit Glace. — Ice-cream and sherbet are often served in small, fancy paper cases, which ma}^ be obtained at a confectioner’s. Make and freeze the cream, and fill the paper cases with two kinds, either sherbet and plain ice- cream, or sherbet and tutti frutti, or Charlotte Russe cream and sherbet, or ice-cream. Pack the cases in a freezer, and keep on ice and salt till veiy hard. Serve on a lace paper napkin laid on a fancj" plate. Sometimes the bis- cuits are covered with a meringue, and colored slightl}’’ with a salamander just before serving. Frozen Apricots. — Cut one can of apricots into small pieces, add one pi?it of sugar and one quart of water. When the sugar is dissolved, freeze. When parth^ frozen add, if you like, one pint of whipped cream., measured after whipping. This is delicious without the cream. Peaches, pineapples, cherries, and strawberries are deli- cious when frozen. Vary the amount of sugar as the fruit requires. Sherbets, or Water Ices. Sherbets, or water ices, are made with the juice of fruit, water, and sugar. With a supply of canned fruit, or fruit syrup always at hand, a variety of delicious desserts may be quickly prepared. A tablespoonful of gelatine., soaked and dissolved, gives a light and smooth consistency to water ices. Many prefer to boil the water and sugar to a clear syrup, remove the scum, and when cool add the fruit juice ; and others use the white of egg beaten stiff, add- ing it after the sherbet is partly frozen. The following are some of the most delicious water ices. Follow the directions given under Orange Sherbet, for all the other varieties. 368 The Boston Cook Book. Orange Sherbet. 1 tablespoonful gelatine. 34 cup cold water. 34 cup boiling water. 1 cup sugar. 1 cup cold water. 6 oranges, or 1 pint of juice. Soak the gelatine in the cold water ten minutes. Add the boiling water, and when dissolved a*dd the sugar, another cup of cold water and the orange juice. Strain when the sugar is dissolved, and freeze. Pomegranate Sherbet. — Make the same as Orange Sherbet, using the blood-red oranges. Lemon Sherbet. 1 tablespoonful gelatine. 1 pint sugar. 1 quart water. Juice of 6 lemons. The boiling water used in dissolving the gelatine should be part of the quart of w'ater. Pineapple Sherbet. 1 can grated, or 1 pint water. 1 pint fresh fruit. 1 tablespoonful gelatine. 1 pint sugar. In using fresh pineapple be careful to remove all the eyes. Raspberry and Strawberry Sherbet. 1 pint berry juice. 1 pint sugar. 1 pint water. Juice of 2 lemons. 1 tablespoonful gelatine. Or, 1 pint preserved fruit. 1 cup sugar. 1 quart water. 2 lemons. 1 tablespoonful gelatine. When using preserved strawberries or raspberries, soak the fruit in part of the water and strain out the seeds. The Boston Cook Book. 369 GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING CAKE. Study first the directions given under Measuring, Mix- ing, and Baking. Cake is a mixture of part or all of the following mate- rials : eggs, sugar or molasses, flour, butter or cream, milk or water, fruit, soda, cream of tartar, spices, etc. An unlimited variety of cakes may be made by varying the proportions of these materials, and to the same pro- portions manj’ clifiTerent names are given. Many amusing experiences are known of the eagerness with which a newh' named receipt for cake is received, which, after many trials, has been found to be an old receipt arranged in a different order. An analysis of the hundreds of receipts given in books devoted to cake-making would show that the gen- eral principles involved may be included under two di- visions, namely, receipts for sponge calces^ made vnthout butter; pound or cup cakes^ made with butter. Sponge cakes are made rich with eggs, the lightness depending wholly upon the amount of air beaten into the egg ; or an inferior quality" is sometimes made by substituting soda and cream of tartar for part of the eggs, and adding more flour and some liquid, usually water. They vary in color, according as the white or yolk of the egg is used. Butter cakes are varied in the same w’a3% and also by the addi- tion of fruit, or spices, or various coloring and flavoring materials. There is no one department in cooking where so much depends upon the baking as in making cake. The fire should be rather low, but sufficient to last through the entire baking. In many stoves it is exceedingly difficult to bake cake bj" a morning fire ; as so much coal is put on, 24 370 The Boston Cook Book. the fire is too hot and cannot be checked suffieientl}-. The oven slionld be less hot than for bread. If too hot, leave the oven door open for ten minutes before putting in the cake, then watch it, and protect it by putting over it a covering of paper, or a pan on the grate above. Do not attempt to make cake unless you can have entire control of tlie fire. Thin cakes require a hotter oven* than those baked in thick loaves. If the oven be not hot enough at first, or be cooled too suddenly during the baking, the cake will not be light. Cakes with molasses in them burn more quickly than others. Thin cakes should bake from fifteen to twenty minutes, thicker cakes from thirty to fort}' minutes, very thick loaves about an hour, and fruit cake from two to three hours. Whichever kind you are baking, divide the time required into quarters. During the first quarter the heating is not manifested in appearance except by the rising; during the second the cake should continue to rise and begin to brown ; then should become all over a rich golden brown ; and in the last quarter settle a little, brown in the cracks, and shrink from the pan. Be careful not to take it out too soon. If necessary to move it, do it very gently, and never move it when it has risen to the full height, but is not browned or fixed in its shape. If cake brown before rising, the oven is too hot. When it rises more in the centre, cracks open, and sta}'s up, it is too stiff with flour. It should rise first on the edges, then in the middle, crack slightl}’, settle to a level again, when the cracks usually come together. Nothing is more sug- gestive of bakeshop cake, or inferior quality in material, than a loaf with an upper surface having sharp edges, then hollows, and a peaked centre, as if the inside of the cake had boiled up and run out over the top. Line your cake tins with paper, to prevent burning the bottom and edges and to aid in removing the cake from the pans. Lay the paper over the outside of the pan, and crease it round the edge of the bottom. Allow it large enough to come above the top of the pan. Fold in the The Boston Cook Book. 371 middle lengthwise and crosswise, and cut out the open corners to the crease made by the pan. Then fit it into the inside of the pan, and grease the paper, not the pan, with fresh butter or lard. Many use a rag tied on a stick ; others grease with a brush. Nice brushes are veiy ex- pensive (and no others are suitable), and unless carefully cleaned are quite objectionable. Rags and paper absorb the grease which should be put on the pan, and in an}’ case the fingers should be washed after the process. So there is no quicker, easier, or more economical way of greasing a tin than to rub the butter on with the fingers. Mix cake in an earthen bowl, and never in a tin pan. Use a wooden spoon, as iron spoons discolor the hand and the mixture. Use only the best materials. Go without cake rather than try to make it, or eat it when made, with what is called cooking butter and second-rate eggs. Such cake cannot be good or wholesome. Wash the butter, if very salt. Brown sugar is good for fruit cake, but for all other varieties use the finest granulated or powdered sugar. Very coarse granulated sugar makes heavy cake, with a hard and stick}’ crust. The flour should be dry. When it has been kept in a cool place it should be slightly warmed, and always sifted before using. St. Louis flour — or pastry, flour, as it is sometimes called — is best for cake. When new-process flour is used, take one eighth less. Soda, cream of tartar, and baking- powders should be crushed and sifted into the flour, then sifted two or three times with the flour. Mix spices with the flour or wdth the sugar. Mix a little of the measure of flour with the fruit to keep it from sticking together or settling. If the sugar be lumpy, crush and sift before using. Eggs should be fresh, and cooled by keep- ing in cold water or in the ice-chest. The yolks and whites should be beaten separately. Break each egg on the edge of the cup, just enough to crack the middle of the shell, so the white will flow out, but not hard enough to break into the yolks. Then hold the egg over the cup, with the cracked side up, and break it apart. Let the 372 The Boston Cook Book. white run into the cup, and keep the yolk iu the half shell until all the white is drained olf. Be careful not to break the yolk, as the smallest portion of it in the whites will prevent them from frothing. Beat the yolks in a bowl, and the whites in a platter if you use a fork or whisk, or in a bowl if you use a Dover beater. Never stop beating the whites until the}'^ are stiff and diy, as it is impossible to have them light if they become liquid again. Measure all the ingredients, and have the fire and all utensils read}", before you begin to mix. Observe the fol- lowing order in putting materials together. Sponge Cake Mixtures. — Beat the yolks until light or lemon-colored and thick. Add the sugar graduall}", and beat again. Add the lemon juice or flavoring, and water, if that is to be used. Beat the whites until stiff and diy, and cut or fold them in lightly, then sift in the flour, and fold in carefull}" without any stirring. Sponge cakes should not be beaten after adding the flour. Those made with soda and cream of tartar require less beating than those without, but the}’ are a very poor substitute for genuine sponge cake. Batter Cake Mixtures. — Warm the bowl with hot water, then wipe dry. Put in the butter, and rub with a wooden- or silver spoon until light and creamy. Be careful not to have the bowl so hot as to melt the butter. Add the sugar and beat again. If the habit of rubbing the butter and sugar together with the hand be already formed, and you find it easier than to use a spoon, it is hardly worth v/hile to change ; but for those who are wholly inexperienced it is better to learn to use the spoon, and every lady would prefer to have her cook mix in that way. If the proportion of sugar be large for the butter, — more than double, — beat part of the sugar with the butter, and the remainder with the yolks of the eggs. Where a very small proportion of butter is to be used, it may be melted and mixed with the eggs and sugar. Beat the yolks till light and thick, then beat them well with the butter and sugar. x\dd the The Boston Cook Book, 373 flavoring. Then add a little milk, then a little flour, and milk aoain, and continue until all the milk and flour are used. Lastlj’, add the beaten whites. All cakes made with butter require to be beaten long and vigorously after adding the flour, that the}" may be smooth and fine- grained. Fruit should be added last ; cake with fruit should be a little stiffer with flour than that without fruit. Citron and large pieces of fruit may be put in in layers, or spread over the dough in the pan. All cake should be baked as soon as possible after it is mixed. Put the scrapings from the bowl into small tins. If put into the loaf, they sometimes cause a heavy streak through the top. Cake is baked when it shrinks from the pan and stops hissing, or when a straw inserted in the centre comes out clean. Remove the loaf from the pan as soon as baked, lifting it out b}" the paper ; or, if not papered, loosen the edges with a knife, and turn the pan over upon a cloth laid over a bread-cooler. Remove the pan as soon as possible. Never let cake stand in the pan to become moist. When cake is baked too hard or burned, rub oflf the burned surface with a coarse grater. Sponge Cake. 6 eggs. 1 cup sugar, powdered or fine granulated. 1 saltspoonful salt. lemon (grated rind and juice). 1 cup pastry flour. See general directions for putting together (page 372). The mixture should be stiff and spongy, of the consistency of Charlotte Russe filling, as it is poured into the pan. Bake in a deep bread pan, in a moderate oven, nearly an hour, — in a shallow pan, about fort}" minutes. If stirred instead of beaten, the bubbles of air will be broken and the mixture will become liquid. When baked, it will be tough and too close-grained. To make this cake well, requires strength in beating and judgment in baking; but when successful, it is one of the most satisfactoiy and perfect I 374 The Boston Cook Book. cakes made. Cut through the crust with a sharp pointed knife, then break apart. Sponge Cake. {Miss Josselyn.) — Beat the yolks of three eggs; add one cup of fine granulated sugar ^ one tablespoonfid of lemon juice^ and one tahlespoonful of cold water., or a lump of ice melted in the lemon juice to make two tablespoonfuls of liquid. Add the whites., beaten stiff, and one cup of pastry fiour . Lady Fingers and Sponge Drops. — Four eggs., half a cup of powdered sugar., half a saltspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of fiavoring, and three quarters of a cup of pastry fiour. See general directions for mixing sponge cakes. Pour the mixture into a pastiy bag, and press through it into shape, about three inches long and not quite one inch wide. Or drop by the spoonful on a but- tered pan, and you have Sponge Drops. Sprinkle pow- dered sugar over them, and bake twelve or sixteen minutes in a very slow oven. Miss Ward'^s Sponge Cake. — Break ten eggs into a bowl ; add one pound of powdered sugar, and beat to- gether for half an hour without stopping. Add half a pound of fiour, the grated rind and Jwice of one lemon, and a wineglassful of wine. Bake in deep pans one hour ; slowly at first, then quicken the fire the last half-hour. Sprinkle powdered sugar over the top before baking. Angel Cake. — One cup of fiour., measured after one sifting, and then mixed with one teaspoonful of cream of tartar and sifted four times. Beat the whites of eleoen eggs, with a wire beater or perforated spoon, until stiff and flaky. Add one cup and a half of fine granulated sugar , and beat again ; add one teaspoonful of vanilla or almond, then mix in the flour quickly and lightl\\ Line the bottom and funnel of a cake pan with paper not greased, pour in the mixture, and bake about forty minutes. When done, loosen the cake around the edge, and turn out at once. Some persons have been more successful with this cake by mixing the sugar with the flour and cream of tartar, and adding all at once to the beaten egg. The Boston Cook Book, 375 Sunshine Cake. — Make the same as Angel Cake, using one teaspoonful of orange extract instead of vanilla, and adding the well- beaten yolks of six eggs to the beaten whites and sugar before adding the flour. Sponge Cake for Cream Pies, or Berwick Sponge Cake. Beat the 3’olks of the eggs ; add the sugar, lemon juice, and water ; then the flour, mixed with the soda and cream of tartar, and, lastl3% the whites of the eggs. Bake in round shallow pans. When cool, split and fill with cream. When each part of the process of beating is done just two minutes b3" the clock, and baked in a loaf, it is called Berwick Sponge Cake. Cream. — Boil one pint of milk. Beat two eggs / add half a cup of sugar and one saltspoonful of salt. Melt one tahlespoonfuX of butter in a granite saucepan, and add two tablespoon fuls of flour. When well mixed, add the boiling milk graduall3' , pour it on the eggs and sugar, and cook in a double boiler five minutes, or till smooth. When cool, flavor with lemon., vanilla., or almond. Sponge Cake with Fruit. — Make a Sponge Cake., bake in shallow pans, and put crushed and sweetened straw- berries between the la3'ers. Cover with whipped cream. Or put one cup of candied fruit, cut fine, in a cream pre- pared as above, and use in the same wav. Sponge Cake for Children. {Miss M. L. Clarke.') — Mix in a bowl one cup and a half of pastry flour, one teaspoonful of cream of tartar and* half a teaspoonful of soda, sifted with the flour, one cup of sugar, and one tea- spoonful ot extract of lemon or orange / two eggs, broken in a cup and the cup filled with milk or cream. Mix all in the order given, and beat very hard till light. Bake from twenty to thirt3’ minutes in a moderate oven. 3 eggs, yolks, cup sugar, cup water. 1 teaspoonful lemon extract. 2 cups pastry flour. 1 teaspoonful cream of tartar. teaspoonful soda. Whites of 3 eggs. 376 The Boston Cook Book. Roll Jelly Cake. This is the simplest form of a butter cake. It is like a sponge cake, with the addition of a small amount of short- ening. Three eggs^ beaten separatel}^ till ver}^ light, then beaten together ; add one cup of sugar ^ three tablespoon- fuls of cream, or one of melted butter, one cup pastry flour mixed with one teaspoonful of cream of tartar and half a teaspoonful of soda. Spread very thin on long shallow tins, and bake in a moderate oven. Spread with jelly while warm, trim the edges with a sharp knife, and roll up. One Egg cup butter, creamed. 1 cup sugar. 1 egg, beaten light. 1 cup milk. Cake. 2 cups flour. 34 teaspoonful soda. 1 teaspoonful cream of tartar. 1 teaspoonful vanilla. Mix in the order given, and bake in a shallow pan, in a moderate oven, thirty minutes. Park Street Cake. 34 cup butter. 1 cup milk. 2 cups sugar. 3 cups pastry flour. 4 eggs. 34 teaspoonful soda. 1 teaspoonful cream of tartar. 1 teaspoonful vanilla or lemon extract. 1 saltspoonful mace. Contrary to our usual practice, this receipt is not given in the order in which the materials are to be put together, but in numerical order, as an aid in remembering the pro- portions. Rub the butter in a warm bowl, with a wooden spoon, until like cream, and add one cup of the sugar gradually ; add the remaining cup of sugar to the beaten 3’olks of the eggs, beat until ver}^ light, and add to the butter. Add the flavoring. Then beat the whites stiff and diy, and let them stand while }'ou add a little milk and flour alternately to the mixture. Add the whites last. This makes two loaves. Bake in a mod- The Boston Cook Book, 377 erate oven until the loaf shrinks from the pan. Halve this receipt, and you have Feather Cake ; or bake it in round shallow pans for Jelly Cake or for Cream Pies. Orange Cake. 2 eggs. 1 cup sugar. 1 tablesp. melted butter, cup milk, cup flour. teaspoonful soda. 1 teaspoonful cream of tartar, l^tablespoonful orange juice and a little of the grated rind. Mix in the order given. Bake in a round shallow^ pan, split, and fill with orange cream. Orange Cream for Cake. — Put in a cup the rind of half and the juice of one orange., one tahlespoonful of lemon juice., and fill with cold water. Strain, and put on to boil. Add one tahlespoonful of cornstarch., wet in cold water. Stir till thick, then cook over hot water ten minutes. Beat the yolk of one egg., add tioo heaping tablespoonfuls of sugar., stir into the starch, cook one minute, add one teaspoonful of butter., and cool. Fill the cake with the cream, and frost with ornamental frosting. Mark the frosting like a pie, in eight pieces, and decorate each with a section of orange and ornamental frosting. Orange Cake, No. 2. Double the preceding receipt for cake, and bake in two long shallow pans. Prepare the pulp of the oranges, sw'eeten to taste, and spread between the cakes. Frost with orange frosting. Cut into oblong pieces. Or fill with the following cream : — Orange and Cocoanut Cream for Cake. — One egg., beaten well ; add one cup of v)hipped cream, half a cup of sugar, one cup of grated cocoanut, the grated rind of half and the juice of one orange. Put this between and on the top of the cakes, and sprinkle fresh cocoanut over the whole. 378 The Boston Cook Booh. Mother’s Cake. {Mrs. R. M. Walcott.) This receipt is the foundation for countless varieties of cake, which are often given in cook books under different names, but which when analj’zed are found to be identical in proportions. 1 scant cup butter. 1)2 sugar. 3 eggs, beaten separately. 1 teaspoonful lemon or vanilla. 1 saltspoonful mace. Cream the butter ; add the sugar gradually, then the 3'’olks of the eggs, then the flavoring. Reserve a quarter oY a cup of flour, lest the cake be too stiff if all be used ; less flour will be required for a thin than for a thick loaf. Put the soda and cream of tartar into the remainder of the flour. Add the milk and flour alternately, a little at a time, and lastl}" the whites, which have been beaten stiff and dry. Bake from forty to fift}* minutes in a moderate oven. Add one cup of currants., and it makes a nice Currant Cake ; or half a cup of dates, cut fine and floured, and you have Date Cake. Color one cupful of the dough with spices, — cinnamon, allspice, and mace, — or with grated chocolate, put it in the pan in spots, and 3’ou have Leopard Cake. B3' using a full cup of butter, it is the same as White Mountain Cake. For Nat Cake add one cup of fine chopped walnuts^ or other nuts, to the dough, and put a layer of unbroken halves of English walnuts over the top. Or bake in shallow round pans, split and spread with a thin la3'er of currant jelly, and then fill with Cocoa- nut and Daisin Cream made as follows : One cup of raisins, stoned and chopped fine, half a cup of chopped almonds, half a cup of grated cocoamit, and the white of one egg, beaten stiff. 34 ^^up milk. 3 cups pastry flour. 1 teaspoonful cream of tartar. 34 teaspoonful soda. The Boston Cook Book. 379 Macdonald Cake. 1 cup butter, creamed. cup sugar. 4 eggs (yolks). 1 teaspoonful lemon or vanilla. }-2 cup milk. {Mrs. A. A. Lincoln,') t^up cornstarch. 1)4 cup pastry flour. 1 teaspoonful cream of tartar. 1^2 teaspoonful soda. Whites of the eggs. Mix ill the order given, and bake in two shallow pans in a moderate oven. Cider Cake. 1 cup butter. 2 cups sugar. 3 eggs, beaten separately. ^ cup cider. 4 cups flour. 1 teaspoonful soda, scant. 1 teaspoonful spice. Mix soda and spice with flour, then mix in the order given, and bake in two shallow pans. Dominoes. Bake sponge or feather cake in shallow pans ; frost, cut in oblong pieces, and mark like dominoes. Madelines. Bake any rich butter cake mixture quarter of an inch thick. Cut in squares or rounds ; ornament yfith. frosting and nuts., or candied fruits . Gold Cake, cup butter. 1) 4 cup fine granulated sugar. Yolks of 4 eggs. 1 whole egg. )4 cup milk. )4 teaspoonful mace. teaspoonful soda. ^ teaspoonful cream of tartar. 2) ^ cups flour. Mix in the order given, tar in the flour, and addins: Silver Cake. )4 cup butter. 1)4 cup sugar. )4 teaspoonful almond. 3^ cup milk. )4 teaspoonful soda. ^ teaspoonful cream of tartar. 2 cups flour. Whites of 5 eggs. putting soda and cream of tar- milk and flour alternately. 38o The Boston Cook Book. Bake in a moderate oven, until the loaf shrinks from the pan. Watermelon Cake may be made from this receipt by using red sugar in the gold cake, and adding one cup of raisins^ seeded, quartered, and rolled in flour. Put the red cake in the centre of a round pan, and the white around the edge. Or put the red at the bottom, and the white on top. Bake in a large round pan, or two brickloaf pans. Marble Cake. — Color one cupful of the yellow cake dough brown with one tablespoonful of melted chocolate, and mix the white, yellow, and brown in spots, or drop the brown in rings between the layers of white and yellow. Cornstarch Cake. cup butter, creamed. 13^ cup sugar. 34 cup milk. 3^^ teaspoonful almond. 34 cup cornstarch. 134 cup pastry flour. 34 teaspoonful soda. 134 teaspoonful cream of tartar. Whites of 6 eggs. Mix in the order given, and bake in a moderate oven. Snow Cake. (Miss Alice Walcott.) ^ cup butter. 2 cups sugar. 34 cup milk. 234 cups pastry flour. 34 teaspoonful soda. 134 teaspoonful cream of tartar. Whites of 8 eggs. 1 teaspoonful almond extract. Mix the soda and cream of tartar with the flour. Be sure to use one teaspoonful and a half of cream of tartar, as the extra amount is intended to stiffen the whites of the eggs. Rub the butter to a cream, add the sugar, and beat again ; add the milk and flour alternately, a little at a time, and beat well. Lastly, add the beaten whites and the al- mond. Bake in two small pans in a moderate oven. Dream Cake. — Bake the Snow Cake in three shallow pans. Make the Ornamental P"rosting, and flavor one .part with lemon, another with vanilla, and the third with rose. Frost each cake, put together, and sprinkle grated fresh cocoanut over the top. The Boston Cook Book. 381 Buttercup Cake. (^1. W.) ^ cup butter. 1}4 cup sugar. Yolks of 8 eggs. 1 whole egg. cup milk. 2 cups flour. 34 teaspoonful soda. 13^ teaspoonful cream of tartar. 1 saltspoonful mace, or 1 teaspoonful lemon. Mix in the order given, and bake in two pans in a mod- erate oven till the loaf shrinks from the pan. Or bake in small round tins, and frost with yellow frosting^ and decorate with candied fruit. Harlequin Cake, (il/rs. Williams.^ 1 cup butter, creamed. 2 cups sugar. 3 eggs (yolks). 1 cup milk. 3 cups pastry flour. 1 teaspoonful cream of tartar. 3^ teaspoonful soda. Whites of 3 eggs. Mix in the order given, then divide the dough into four equal parts. Plave two parts the color of the dough. Color the third with two squares of unsweetened choco- late., melted. Color the fourth part with pink coloring., and bake each part in a Washington pie plate. When all are done, lay first a light cake, then the chocolate, then another light, then the pink. Between the laj’ers spread lemon jelly., and frost with white frosting . Lemon Jelly for Cake. — Beat one egg., add one cup of water., the grated rind soodi juice of one lemon. Pour this slowly on one cup of sugar, mixed with two tahlespoonfuls oi four. Cook in the double boiler till smooth, like cream. Pink Coloring for Cake and Creams. 3^ ounce cochineal. 3^ ounce alum. 3^ ounce cream of tartar. 3^ ounce salts of tartar. 3^ pint boiling water. 34 pound sugar. To the first three ingredients add the boiling water, and put in a porcelain stewpan. Let it stand on the stove without boiling for twenty-five minutes. Add the salts of tartar very gradually, stirring all the time. Add the 382 The Boston Cook Book. sugar. Strain and bottle it. Use one or two teaspoonfuls, according to the shade desired. • Pokeherry Syrup for Coloring Pink. — Put the fruit in a porcelain kettle, and cover with water. Boil slowly till the skins break, then strain. Add a pound of sugar to a quart of juice; boil a few moments, bottle and seal. Ribbon Cake. 1 cup butter. 2 cups sugar. 4 eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately. 1 cup milk. 33^ cups pastry flour. 34 teaspoonful soda. 1 teaspoonful cream of tartar. Have three long, shallow pans, of equal size. Divide the dough into three parts. Bake two parts as plain cake ; add to the remaining dough. cup raisins, stoned and chopped. 1 cup currants. 34 pound sliced citron (the fruit all floured). 2 teaspoonfuls molasses. 2 teaspoonfuls brandy or wine. 1 teaspoonful mixed mace and cinnamon. Bake, and put the fruit cake between the two plain cakes, with jelly between. Press it lightly with the hand in putting together ; trim the edges even, and frost. Coffee Cake. Use one cup of strong., clear coffee instead of milk., and make as in the preceding rule. Add the fruit and spices to the whole mixture. Bake it in one loaf. Spice Cakes. 1 egg- ^ cup molasses. ^ cup sugar. ^ cup melted butter. 1 cup milk. 2k> cups flour. 1 lieaping teaspoonful soda. 1 even tcasp. cream of tartar, 1 t.ablespoonful mixed spice. 1 tablespoonful vinegar. Mix in the order given, and bake in small tins. One tahlespoonful of lemon juice and one tablespoonful of ginger ma}’ be substituted for the vinegar and spice. The Boston Cook Book. 383 Plum Cakes. 1 cup butter. 2 cups brown sugar. Yolks of 3 eggs. Whites of 2 eggs. 3^2 cup milk. 3^ cup dark molasses. 3-^ teaspoonful soda. If not dark enough, add a in small tins, and frost part white of egg. Pound Cake. 3^ teaspoonful cream of tartar. % pound raisins, stoned and chopped, 3^ pound currants. 2 tablespoonfuls any fruit syrup. 4 cups flour. 2 teaspoonfuls mixed spices. ittle m.elted chocolate. Bake of them with the remaining (^Miss Ward.) 1 pound butter. 1 pound sugar. 10 eggs. 1 pound flour. 3^ wineglass wine. 34 wineglass brandy. Cream the butter ; add the sugar, j^olks of the eggs, wine, brand}’, whites of the eggs, and the flour. Put cur- rants into one fourth of the dough, and almonds, blanched and pounded in rose water, into another part ; leave the remainder plain. Fill very small round tins three quarters full. Into half of those eontaining the plain dough put small pieces of citron, three in each, inserting the citron upright a little wa}^ into the dough. Sift sugar over the tops of those containing the citron and almond before put- ting them into the oven. Bake twenty minutes. Frost the plain and currant cakes. Pound cake is lighter when baked in small cakes than in loaves. Wedding Cake. 1 pound butter. 1 pound sugar. 12 eggs. 1 pound flour. 2 teaspoonfuls each of cinnamon and mace. 1 teaspoonful each of nutmeg and allspice. 34 teaspoonful cloves. 2 pounds raisins. 2 pounds currants. 1 pound citron. 1 pound almonds. 1 wineglass brandy. 1 lemon. Line the pans with three thicknesses of paper ; butter the top la}’er. Seed and chop the raisins *, wash and dry 3^4 The Boston Cook Book. the currants (see page 435) ; cut the citron in uniform slices, about one eighth of an inch thick ; blanch the almonds and chop fine. Mix all the fruit but the citron with enough of the fiour to coat it thoroughly. Mix the spices with the sugar. Cream the butter; add the sugar, beaten 3^olks, beaten whites, lemon rind and juice, brandy, flour, and fruit, except the citron. Put a layer •/ of dough half an inch deep in the pan, then spread evenly with the citron, then another la3’er of dough and citron; repeat till the materials are all used. Have dough for the top layer. As this cake does not rise much in baking, the pans may be at least two thirds full. Bake in two large, deep, oblong pans three hours, in a moderate oven. Frosting. Plain Frosting. — White of one egg^ one teaspoonful of lemon juice., and one scant cup of powdered sugar. Put the egg and lemon juice in a bowl, and stir the sugar in graduall3\ Then beat, not stir, all together five minutes. Boiled Icing. — One cup of granulated sugar., one third of a cup of boiling water., ichite of one egg., and one salt- spoonful of cream of tartar. Boil the sugar and water without stirring, until the s3Tup taken up on a skewer wdll “thread” or “rope.” When it is nearl3" at that point, beat the egg stiff, add the cream of tartar, and pour the boiling S3’rup over the egg in a fine stream, beating well. When it thickens and is perfectl3’ smooth, pour it over the cake. It hardens quickl3’, and should be put on the cake before it stiffens enough to drop. Golden Frosting. — Beat the yolks of eggs and stir in powdered sugar till stiff enough to spread, not to run. Flavor with vanilla or wine. Ornamental Frosting. — Whites of three eggs., three cups of confectioner'' s sugar., sifted, and three teasp>oon- fuls of lemon juice. Put the eggs in a large bowd ; sprinkle with three teaspoonfuls of the sugar. Beat with a perforated wooden spoon, adding three teaspoonfuls of The Boston Cook Book. 385 sugar every five minutes. When it begins to thicken add the lemon juice and beat as before. It should thicken by the beating of the egg, and not b}^ the addition of too much sugar. Do not use all the measure of sugar unless needed. Beat with a long flop, over and over, and never stir. When stiflT enough to leave a “ clean cut,” or not to run together when cut with a knife, spread a thin la^ er of frosting on the cake, and when this is hard put on another laj'er a quarter of an inch thick. When this is firm, mark it for cutting. To the remainder of the frosting add sugar more rapidlj', until it begins to harden on the spoon and bowl. Put a confectioner’s tube into the end of a pastry bag, fill the bag with frosting, twist the end tightly’, and press the frosting through the tube on the cake in any design you wish. Pink Frosting. — Color a portion of the Ornamental Frosting with cochineal^ adding it slowl}^ till of the desired shade. Chocolate Frosting. — Melt a square of chocolate in a saucepan, and add to the Ornamental Frosting, using enough to color light or dark as 3-011 prefer. Orange Frosting. — Grate the thin riyid of an orange., and soak it half an hour in three or four teaspoonfuls of the orange juice. Then squeeze the juice through a fine cloth, and use the same as lemon juice in Ornamental Frosting. Cookies. Plain Cookies. cup butter. 1 cup sugar, cup milk. 1 egg. 2 even teasp. baking-powder. Flour to roll out thin. Richer Cookies, y^ cup butter. 1 cup sugar. 1 tablespoonful milk. 2 eggs. 1 heaping teasp. baking-powder. Flour to roll out. Cream the butter; add the sugar, milk, egg, beaten lightl}", and the baking-powder mixed with two cups of flour, then enough more flour to roll out. Roll a little at a time. Cut out. Bake about ten minutes. 25 386 The Boston Cook Book. Cocoanut Cookies. — Add one cup of grated cocoanut^ or half a cup of cocoanut cakes., crumbled, to either of these receipts before adding the flour. Jumbles. — Roll either of these mixtures thicker, and cut with a doughnut cutter ; sprinkle sugar over, and bake a delicate brown. Hermits. — Add half a cup of stoned and chopped rai~ sins to the receipt for Richer Cookies., and roll about a quarter of an inch thick. Cut into rounds. ‘ Nevn Yearh Cookies. — Rub three fourths of a cup of butter into six cups oi flour. Pour half a cup of boiling water over one cup and a half of sugar., add a scant half- teaspoonful of soda., and when the sugar is melted stir all into the flour. Roll out thin. One-Two-Three-Four Cookies. {Mrs. Whitney.) 1 cup butter. 2 cups sugar. 3 cups flour. 4 eggs. 3^ teaspoonful soda. 1 teaspoonful cream of tartar. 34 teaspoonful salt. 1 teaspoonful spice, or 2 tablesp. carraway seed, or 2 teaspoonfuls yellow ginger. Cream the butter, and add half the sugar. Beat the 3’olks, add the remaining half of the sugar, and beat them with the butter, then add the beaten w'hites. Mix the soda, cream of tartar, spice, and salt with the flour, and stir into the butter mixture. Take a teaspoonf ul of the dough., make it into a ball with floured hands, place the balls in the pan some distance apart, then press or flatten into a round cake, and bake about ten minutes. Thin Sugar Gingerbread. — Add to the preceding re- ceipt two teaspoonfuls of yellow ginger., instead of spice., and spread the mixture thin on a tin sheet. Mark in squares or oblongs, and bake. The Boston Cook Book. 387 Superior Gingerbread. {Mrs. Towne.) 13^ pound butter, pound sugar. 9 eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately. 1 wineglass wine. 1 wineglass brandy. 2 tablespoonfuls ginger and 1 nutmeg, grated, mixed with 2 pounds flour. Mix as for cake in the order given, and spread very thin with a knife on tin sheets. Bake, and cut in squares while warm. This will keep six months. Hard Gingerbread. ^ pound butter. 1)^ pound sugar. 6 eggs. {Mrs. Dewey. ^ 1 teaspoonful soda, dissolved in 3 tablespoonfuls milk. 1 tablespoonful ginger. 2 pounds flour. Cream the butter ; add the sugar and beaten eggs, and beat well. Sift in the ginger, strain the soda, and add the flour. Roll half an inch thick, or thin as a wafer. Hard Gingerbread. {Miss A. M. Towne.) 2 cups N. O. molasses. 1 teaspoonful soda. 1 cup butter. St. Louis flour to mix very stiff. 1 tablespoonful ginger. Heat (not boil) the molasses and butter ; when the but- ter is melted, add the ginger, sifted, the soda dissolved in a little boiling water, and the flour. Roll very thin, and bake in a quick oven.' Soft Gingerbread. 1 cup molasses. 1 teaspoonful soda. 1 tablespoonful ginger. 34 teaspoonful salt. 34 to 34 cup butter or drippings, softened. 1 cup milk. 3 cups pastry flour. Bake in shallow pans or gem pans in a moderate oven about thirty minutes. 388 The Boston Cook Book. * Sugar Gingerbread. cup butter. 2 teaspoonfuls ginger. ^ cup cream. 1 teaspoonful soda, scant. 13^ cup sugar. Mix: stiff with Roll thick or thin. Hot Water Gingerbread. 1 cup molasses. 1 teaspoonful soda. 1 tablespoonful ginger. 1 tablespoonful butter, melted. 3^ teaspoonful salt. 3^ cup boiling water. 2 cups flour. Mix in the order given, and beat w'ell. cake pan. Sour Milk Gingerbread. Bake in a deep cup molasses. 34 teaspoonful soda. 34 teaspoonful salt. 1 tablespoonful ginger. 34 cup sugar. 1 tablespoonful butter, softened. 1 cup sour milk. 234 cups pastry flour, with an- other 34 teaspoonful soda mixed with it. Omit the butter when sour cream is used. Bake in muffin pans. Ginger Snaps. (Mrs. H. B. May.) 1 cup molasses. 34 cup sugar. 1 tablespoonful ginger. 1 teaspoonful soda. 34 cup softened butter. Flour to roll out very thin. Heat the molasses, pour it over the sugar; add the ginger, soda, butter, and flour. Cut, and bake quickl}". Ginger Drops (without Butter). 2 eggs, well beaten. 1 cup brown sugar. 2 teaspoonfuls ginger. 1 cup N. O. molasses, boiled. 1 teaspoonful soda. Flour to roll out. Mix in the order given. Roll thin, cut with a very small cutter, and bake in a quick oven. If }'ou like, add one tablespoonful of vinegar before adding the flour, and use a heaping teaspoonful of soda. The Boston Cook Book, 389 Soft Molasses Cookies. {A. W.) 1 cup molasses. 1 tablespoonful ginger. 1 teaspoonful soda. 2 tablesp. warm water or milk. 3^ cup butter, softened Flour to mix soft. Mix in the order given, dissolving the soda in the milk. Roll out one third of an inch thick. Cut in small rounds. Cream Cakes. 1 cup hot water. teaspoonful salt. 3^ cup butter. 134 cup pastry flour. 5 eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately. Boil the water, salt, and butter. When boiling, add the dry flour, stir well for five minutes, and when cool add the eggs. This is such a stiff mixture, many find it easier to mix with the hand, and some prefer to add the eggs whole, one at a time. When well mixed, drop, in table- spoonfuls, on a buttered baking-pan, some distance apart. Bake twenty to thirty minutes, or till brown and well puffed. Split when cool, and fill with cream. J^clairs. — Bake the Cream Cake mixture in pieces four inches long and one and a half wide. When cool, split and fill with cream. Ice with chocolate or vanilla frosting. Cream for Cream Cakes and !^lclairs. 1 pint milk, boiled. 2 tablespoonfuls cornstarch. 3 eggs, well beaten. ^ cup sugar. 1 saltspoonful salt, or 1 teaspoonful butter. Wet the eornstarch in cold milk, and cook in the boiling milk ten minutes. Beat the eggs ; add the sugar and the thickened milk. Cook in the double boiler five minutes. Add the salt or butter, and when cool, flavor with lemon^ vanilla^ or almond. Kisses, or Cream Meringnes. Beat the whites of three eggs stiff and flak}" ; add three quarters of a cup of powdered sugar ^ sifting and cutting 390 The Boston Cook Book. it in lightl}". Drop by spoonfuls on paper placed on boards. Put in the hot closet or oven, with the door open for half an hour. Then brown slightly. Put two together ; or put them on the paper in oblong shape, dr\* one hour, brown, remove the soft part, and fill with whipped cream. To make these successful!}", the stead}', moderate heat of a confectioner’s brick oven is essential. It is a waste ot time and material to attempt them in an ordinary stove oven. Macaroons. Half a pound oi almonds^ blanched, dried, and pounded to a paste, with one teaspoonful of rose water. Beat to- gether the whites of three eggs., and half a cup oi powdered sugar., adding the sugar by the teaspoonful. Add half a teaspoonful of almond essence., then add the pounded almonds and, if too soft to be shaped, add one tablespoon- ful of flour. Roll with wet hands into balls the size of walnuts, flatten them slightly, and place some distance apart on buttered paper. Bake slowly. Almond paste, ready for use, may be obtained at a con- fectioner’s. Break it up with a fork, add the beaten wliites and sugar, using four or five eggs for half a pound of paste. Drop by teaspoonfuls on paper, and bake as above. Cocoanut Cakes, (f irs. Richard Ward.) The grated meat of two cocoanuts. their weight in loaf . sugar, one cup of flour, and whites of two eggs. Shape into balls, and bake twenty minutes. Chocolate Caramels. One Clip of molasses, half a cup of sugar, one quarter of a pound of chocolate, cut fine, half a cup of milk, and one heaping tablespoon ful of butter. Boil all together, stirrinsr all the time. When it hardens in cold water, pour it into shallov/ pans, and as it cools cut in small squares. The Boston Cook Book. 391 FRUIT. It would be a great saving of time and work, give a pleasing variety to bills of fare, and be above all a great promoter of health, if people would use ripe fruit abun- dantly in its season at their tables (not between meals). With the markets bountifully supplied with many varieties of fruit, it is to be regretted that it cannot be found at every table at least once a day. Much of the money spent for some kinds of meat would be better expended for fruit. A simple course of fruit is all that is needed after a dinner, and is much more wholesome than pies. But it is so hard for some people to break away from old customs that it will be long before housekeepers generall}’ will be content to serve the queen of all fruits, the apple, in its natural state instead of making it into the “ persistent pie,” over the preparation of which many women toil, for naught save the fear that they may be considered shiftless if they have n’t a pie in the house. Ripe fruit is especially appropriate at the breakfast- table, and may be taken before or after the principal dishes, according to individual needs and taste. Some peo- ple require the acid of oranges or gi’apes before they can eat anything substantial ; others might be made ill by their use at that time, but be benefited by them afterwards. All fruit should be served as fresh and cold as possible. A dish of fruit which has been kept from day to day in a warm room may answer for an ornament, but it is not tempting to the palate. Only sound, fresh fruit should appear at the table. Apples for table use should have a pleasant spicy flavor, not too acid, and should be wiped clean, or polished if you prefer the street-vender’s style. 392 The Boston Cook Book. Oranges may be served whole or cut. Many slice them across the sections ; but the presence of the seeds and tough inner skin is objectionable. A better way is to remove all the rind and white skin, divide into sections, then with the point of a silver fruit-knife cut ofi’ the inner skin in the middle, slip out the seeds, and cut each section into three pieces. Never serve with the seeds left in, nor sweeten until just before serving. A neat way to peel an orange is to cut the rind from the ends and leave a strip round the middle, then open-, leaving the sections on the strip of peel. Or cut the oranges in halves crosswise without peeling, sprinkle with sugar, and eat with a spoon. Grapes^ Malagas especially, should be carefull}’ rinsed in cold water, then drained. Fruit scissors should be used to divide the clusters. Bananas may be served whole, or sliced and slightlj" sweetened or salted. Peaches should have the wool wiped off, or if pared and quartered should be sprinkled with fine granulated sugar, and served at once. Strawberries, if gritty, should be rinsed and drained, then hulled, and not sweetened till served. Large selected berries may be served with the stems on. Pass sugar "^vith them, that those who prefer ma}’^ roll them in it. Currants should be sweetened, and large whole clusters may be served on the stem. Currants and raspberries are delicious when served together. Watermelons should be served vei} co u o a slice at each end. that each half may stand upright, berve the core only, taking it out with a tablespoon m cone- shaped pieces. Other mdons should have the seeds re- moved before serving, be cut in halves, a lump of me m each, and served with sugar or salt. . ■ • Pineapples. — V&re, remove the eyes, and cut m thin slices ; then remove the fibrous centre, and serve in slices, or cut the tender parts into small pieces and sweeten to taste. Or pare and pull off the tender part with a fork, as directed for preserved pineapple. The Boston Cook Book, 393 Iced Fruits. — Dip selected fruit into the white of egg slightly beaten, then roll in fine granulated sugar. Dry, and serve very cold. %/ Whole fruit should be served in a high dish, garnished with green leaves, fiowers, or vines, and, with a tasteful combination of colors, arranged in a convenient way for serving. Flits should be cracked, and served with salt. Almonds and other nuts having a tough inner skin should be blanched. • Raisins. — Use only choice varieties, and serve with nuts. Peel the oranges, divide into sections, and remove the seeds and tough membrane. Put a laj’er of orange in the bottom of a glass dish, pour over it a little wine or lemon juice, and strew wdth powdered sugar ; add cocoanut, and then the banana cut in thin slices ; repeat the process, using orange, cocoanut, banana, etc., as before. The top la3’er is to be heaped high in the centre, and sprinkled thickl}’ with cocoanut and powdered sugar, and garnished around the base with slices of banana. Other combinations of fruit ma}'^ be arranged to suit the taste ; and cocoanut cakes or macaroons., crumbled, or a meringue of white of egg and sugar ^ may take the place of the grated cocoanut. The simplest forms of cooking fruit are stewing and baking. Onl}- a small amount of sugar is needed, and it is not well to prepare a large quantit}’ at a time, as stewed fruits do not keep long. In cooking fruit alwa}’s use porce- lain or granite kettles, earthen dishes, wooden spoons, and Tropical Snow. 8 sweet oranges. 1 cocoanut, grated. 6 red bananas. 1 glass sherry wine, or cup lemon juice. Powdered sugar to taste. Stewed and Baked Fruits. 394 The Boston Cook Book. silver knives, and pare just before cooking, that the deli- cate flavor of the fruit may be preserved, and its attractive appearance not impaired b3^ discoloration. Stewed Apple Sauce. — Pare, core, and quarter six or eight tart apples. Make a syrup with one cup) of sugar., two thirds of a cup of water., and a little lemon peel. When boiling, add the apples, and cook carefull^^ two or three minutes, till they are just tender, but not broken. Remove them carefull}’, boil the s}Tup down a little, and strain it over the apples. Cook them in granite or porcelain pans, and use a wooden spoon. Compote of Apples. — Make a s3Tup with one cup of sugar., one cup of water., and a square-inch of stick cin- namon. Boil slowl3' for ten minutes, skimming well. Core and pare eight or ten tart ap>ples p cook till nearl3' done in the S3’rup. Drain, and cook them a few minutes in the oven. Boil the. S3’rup till almost like a jell3'. Ar- range the apples on a dish for serving. Fill the core cavities with jelly or marmalade. Pour the syrup over them. Put whipped cream around the base, and garnish the cream jelly. Baked Apjples. — Core and pare sour apples. Put them in a shallow earthen dish, fill the cavities with sugar., mixed with grated lemon rind ; add water to cover the bottom of the dish. Bake in a very quick oven till soft, basting often with the syrup. Quinces ma3'^ be baked in the same wa3', adding a little more water, as tlie3’ require a longer time for baking. When eaten hot with butter and sugar., they' are delicious. No. 2. — Fill a deep pudding-dish wdtli apples, pared, cored, and quartered. For two quarts add one cup of sugar and one cup of water. Bake, closely' covered, in a very' moderate oven several hours, or till dark red. Baked Pears. — Hard pears, or “windfalls,” are deli- cious pared and baked as in the preceding receipt. When done, and still hot, they' may be sealed in Mason’s jars, and wdll keep indefinitely. By' preparing one large dishful every day during the pear season, a supply' of wholesome The Boston Cook Book. 395 sauce ma}’ be easily’ obtained from fruit that is often left to waste on the ground. Steamed Rhubarb. — AVash, peel, and cut the rhubarb into inch pieces. Put it into a granite double boiler, add one cup of sugar for a pint of fruit., and cook till the rhu- barb is soft. Do not stir it. When the rhubarb is veiy sour, steam it without sugar until the juice flows, then drain it, add the sugar, and steam again till the sugar is dissolved. Or pour boiling water over it and let it stand five minutes, then drain and steam. Stewed Prunes. — Wash carefull}’, and if hard and dry soak an hour before cooking. Put them into a porcelain kettle, with boiling water to cover them. Boil, closelj'' covered, from five to ten minutes, or until swollen and tender. Then add one tablespoonful of sugar for one pint of prunes., and boil a few moments longer, but not enough to break them. Use only the best selected prunes. If they lack flavor, add a little lemon juice. Cranberries. — Put three pints of washed cranberries in a granite stewpan. On top of them put three cups of gran- idated sugar and three gills of water. After they begin to boil cook them ten minutes, closely covered, and do not stir them. Remove the scum. They will jelly when cool, and the skins will be soft and tender. No. 2. (J/i'ss TFarc?.) — Equal measure of cranberries and sugar. Wash, drain, put in a porcelain kettle with cold water to just show' among the berries when the}' are pressed down. When they boil add a quarter of the sugar. Sprinkle it over the berries without stirring. Let it boil again a minute, add another quarter, etc., till all the sugar is in. Boil up once more, and turn out. Boil slowly, and do not stir. This method is preferred by those who like a very rich sweet sauce. Jellies. Jellies are made of equal parts of clear fruit juice and sugar. Apples., currants, quinces., grapes., and barberries are the fruits usually used. Low blackberries and swamp 396 The Boston Cook Book, huckleberries make delicious jelly. Crab apples and quinces will form jelly easily ; but grapes are unreliable, and cur- rants, if not gathered at the proper time, will sometimes fail. Cherries and some other fruits require the addition of gelatine. Berries, currants, and grapes require no water. Simply mash them in their own juice. Apples, peaches, and quinces should be stewed in as little water as possible, then mashed, and the juice strained. The juices of fruits contain a gelatinous substance called pectose, or pectic acid, which is soluble in the fruit juice, but has the property of coagulation when mixed with sugar, exposed to a slight heat, and then cooled. Sometimes the heat of the sun is sufficient, but usually a short but more intense heat is necessar3\ When the sugar has a bluish tinge, or when there is not enough sugar to absorb the water in the juice, or when the juice is unusuall}'' water}', as when the fruit is over- ripe, and the fruit is boiled a long time to evap- orate this water, the mixture loses its gelatinous properties and becomes gummy, or, as disconsolate housekeepers say, “will not jelly.” Currant Jelly. — Currants should not be over-ripe, nor gathered after a rain, as then they are too watery. In New England currants are in the best condition about the 10th of July. Equal parts of red and white currants., or currants and raspberries, make a delicately colored and flavored jelly. Pick over and remove the leaves and poor fruit, and if gritty wash and drain them, but do not stem them. Mash them in a porcelain kettle with a wooden pestle, without heating, as that makes the jelly darker. Let them drain in a flannel bag over night. Do not squeeze them, or the jelly will be cloudy. In the morning measure a bowl of sugar for each bowl of juice, and heat the sugar carefullv in an earthen dish in the oven. Stir it often to prevent burning. Boil the juice twenty minutes, and skim thoroughly. Add the hot sugar, and boil from three to five minutes, or till it thickens on a spoon when exposed to the air. Turn at once into glasses, and let them remain in the sun several The Boston Cook Book. 397 days, then cover with paper dipped in brandy, and paste paper over the top of the glass. One who is authority on this subject recommends cov- ering with melted paraffine, or putting a lump of paraffine on the jelly while still hot ; then no paper is needed. If one can be sure of several sunny days, and a perfectly dry place in which to keep jellies, they may be, made without boiling. Mix the sugar with an equ4 weight of currant juice, and stir till dissolved. Fill the glasses and keep in the sun till dry. After draining the juice the currants may be squeezed, and a second quality of jelly made. It may not be clear, but answers for some purposes. Crah-^pple^ Wild-Apple^ or Porter- Apple Jelly. {Miss Harriott T. Ward.) — Wash the fruit; cut into pieces, but do not pare, nor remove the seeds ; barely- cover with cold water. Boil and mash them until soft. Then drain on a sieve. Use the juice only, and do not squeeze the fruit. Boil the juice with an equal quantity of sugar, until it jellies. Peach jelly is made in the same manner. Quince Jelly. — Wipe the fruit carefully, and remove all the stems, and parts not fair and sound. Use the best parts of the fruit for canning or preserving, and the skin, cores, and hard parts for jelly. The seeds contain a large portion of gelatinous substance. Boil all together, in enough water to cover, till the pulp is soft. Mash, and drain. Use the juice only, and when boiling add an equal weight of hot sugar, and boil till it jellies in the spoon. Grape Jelly. — Select the grapes when not fully ripe. Wash and drain, then put them in a preserving-kettle, mash well, and heat till all the skins are broken and the juice flows freely. Strain, and use the juice only with an equal weight of sugar, as for Currant Jelly. Marmalade. This is made of the pulp of fruits with the juice, unless that has been used for jelly. When fruit is not abundant, 398 The Boston Cook Book. it is well to make marmalade at the same time with jellies, especially from peaches, quinces, and grapes. After drain- ing, rub the fruit pulp through a sieve, add an equal weight of sugar, and boil very slowly half or three quarters of an hour. Stir often to prevent burning. Preserves. These are usually prepared with equal weights of sugar and fruit. Although too rich for dail}' use, there are man}^ people who prefer them to the canned fruit, and there are some fruits which are better with the full w^eight of sugar. The fruit should be ripe, fresh, and perfectly sound. The following rules illustrate the best methods for the different varieties of fruit. Peaches. — Pare the peaches ; or remove the skins b}’ plunging the peaches into boiling Ij^e (two gallons of water and one pint of wood ashes). When the skins will slip easily, take the peaches out with a skimmer and plunge them into cold water ; rinse in several waters, and there will be no taste of the lye. Weigh, and add three fourths of a 'pound of sugar to each pound oi fruit. Halve them, and use some of the pits, or leave them whole as you please. The stones improve the flavor. Make a s}'rup by adding as little water as possible to the sugar, — about one cupful to each pound of sugar. When it boils, skim till clear, then add the peaches, and cook until transparent. Brandy Peaches. — Prepare the peaches as above, and use half a cup of the best brandy to every pound oi fruit. Add the brandy just as the syrup is taken from the fire. Some people prefer the yellow peaches, but white-fleshed freestone peaches have a delicious flavor. Pamsons and Greengages should be pricked in man}' places with a large needle, to prevent the skins from bursting. Or scald them and remove the skins, as some- times they harden in cooking. Prepare the syrup as for peaches. Cook only a few at a time, that they may not be broken. On three successive mornings pour off* the The Boston Cook Book. 399 syrup, and boil it gently for ten minutes. This will thoroughly cook the fruit, without destroying the shape. Preserved Quinces. — Use the orange quinces. Wipe, pare, quarter, and remove all the core and the hard part under the core. Take an equal weight of sugar. Cover the quinces with cold water. Let them come slowly to a boil. Skim, and when nearly soft put one quarter of the sugar on the top, but do not stir. When this boils, add another part of the sugar, and continue until all the sugar is in the kettle. Let them boil slowly until the color you like, either light or dark. Another way is to cook the quinces in water till ten- der, drain, and put them in a stone jar in layers, with an equal weight of sugar. Cover closelj^ In a cold diy place they will keep perfectly. The}" are lighter-colored and more tender than when cooked in the sjTup. Watch them during the first month, and if there be any signs of fermentation, set the jar in a kettle of hot water till the fruit is scalded. Reserve the broken or unshapely pieces of quince, cut them in small cubes, and use with Strawberry Tomatoes. Allow three quarters of a pound of sugar to a pound o'i fruit. Make the syrup, and cook the fruit in it till tender. Skim it out, and boil the s}Tup down for ten minutes. Fill the jars, and seal at once. Equal parts of sweet apple., cooked with the quince but with no extra sugar, can scarce!}' be distinguished from the quince. Preserved Pineapple. — Remove the skin and all the eyes, take the pineapple in your left hand, and with a sil- ver fork begin at the stem end of the fruit and fork out small bits. 1 his will leave the core, which is juiceless and tasteless, in your hand. Weigh the pineapple after it is thus prepared, and sprinkle over it three quarters of a pound of sugar to one pound of pineapple. When a syrup IS formed, cook the apple slowly in it until trans- parent, then remove the fruit and boil the syrup a little longer. Or slice the pineapple in half-inch slices, and cut out the core. Cook in the syrup, being careful not to break the slices. 400 The Boston Cook Book. Preserved Strawberries, Raspberries, Currants, Black- berries, and Cherries. — Measure a bowl of fruit and the same quantit}^ of sugar. Put in a preserving-kettle, over night, a layer of fruit, and then one of sugar. In the morning cook slowly without stirring, until the liquid is clear and the fruit soft. Skim thoroughly before putting into the jars. Cherries should be stoned. The pits may be used if the flavor be desired. No. 2. — Use only large and selected fruit, and allow one cup of sugar to a pint jar of fruit. Pick over the fruit, and put at once into the jars, with as little hand- ling as possible, and sprinkle each layer with sugar. Place the jars in a boiler of water, and let the water boil ten minutes. Have a little syrup boiling, and fill each jar to the brim with the boiling sjTup, and seal at once. Jams. Jams are made with whole small fruits, or large fruit cut fine, and cooked in an equal weight of sugar. Grape Jam. — Wash the grapes, and squeeze or pinch the pulp from the skins. Boil the pulp until it separates from the seeds, and rub it through a sieve. Then add the skins to the pulp, and boil with an equal weight of sugar fifteen minutes. Put into small jars or tumblers, and cover with paper. Currant, Raspberry, or Blackberry Jam. — Pick over and mash the fruit ; allow one pound of sugar to a pound of fruit. Put the fruit and one quarter of the sugar into a granite or porcelain kettle ; when boiling, add another quarter of the sugar; boil again, add more sugar, and when all is used, let it boil till it hardens on the spoon in the air. Apples, pears, peaches, and quinces should be pared, cut small, and treated in the same waj". Cooking in onh’ a little sugar at a time prevents the fruit from becoming hard. The Boston Cook Book. 401 Canning. Canning differs from preserving in that the fruit is kept, either with or without sugar, by sealing in air-tight jars or cans, and is not cooked long enough to destroy its natural flavor. Some authorities state that fruit may be kept by putting it in the jars, filling with cold water, and sealing immediatel}’. But nearly all fruits are improved by the addition of more or less sugar. As a rule, all fruits that require sugar when fresh require it when canned. The important points in canning are to have the fruit perfect in shape and quality ; the syrup clear, rightly pro- portioned, and boiling hot ; the jars hot and filled to over- fiowing, and sealed quickly and thoroughly, that no air may be left inside. Have all utensils in order and at hand, that there ma}^ be no needless delay. Large-mouthed glass jars with glass covers or porcelain-lined screw covers are the best. Pint jars are more convenient for a small famil}’. They should be scalded, and the covers and rub- bers clean and perfectly fitted. Keep the jars in hot water until ready to fill, or roll each one in hot water just before filling, or place them in a folded towel wrung out of hot water, and put a silver spoon or fork in the jar w'hile filling. A clamp is a great convenience, as the jar may be held in the clamp directly over the kettle and filled very quickly. If without this, have a broad shallow pan, half filled with hot water, on the stove or on a table near by, and place the jars in it while filling them. A wide-mouthed tunnel aids in filling the jars. When the fruit is to be boiled in the jars, place a perforated tin or some fiat stones or muffin rings in the boiler, to keep the jars from resting on the bottom. Then the water will be under as well as around the jar, and there will be no danger of breaking. All ripe mellow fruit may be prepared and put at once into the jars. Place the jars in a boiler or kettle of warm water, with something underneath to avoid breaking. Make the syrup, using sugar according to taste, or in the proportion of one cup of sugar and one cup of water for 26 402 The Boston Cook Book, each jar of small juicy berries^ and one cup of sugar and two cups of water for pears and large fruits. Pour the syrup boiling hot into the hot jars, boil five minutes, and seal at once. Strawberries., plums., and cherries will require more sugar. Cherries should be stoned, but the stones may be used if liked. Quinces., apples., hard peaches., pears., and fruits which require softening, should be cooked in water or in syrup until tender. Then fill the jars with boiling syrup, strain- ing it if not clear. Peaches ma}" be canned whole, or if halved, a few of the pits removed and cooked in the s}'rup to give addi- tional flavor. Pears should be well ripened and of fine flavor. A taste- less, insipid pear is only suitable for sweet pickle. Tomatoes should be peeled and cooked till well scalded, then salted and sealed at once. Always fill to overflowing, using boiling water when there is not enough syrup. Run the handle of a silver tablespoon down the inside of the jar, that the s^Tup may complete!}’’ surround the fruit. Fasten the covers on se- curely, and give the screw an extra turn every half-hour until the fruit is cold. If the jars be kept bottom up and in a dark place, there is hardly a chance of failure. The best quality of thick tin-foil may be used as a cover for any large-mouthed bottle or jar minus a cover. Fill the jar with the fruit and syrup, cover with a large piece of tin-foil, work it down over the rim until perfectly smooth and tight. If air-tight, there will be a depression in the cover as soon as the fruit is cold. Fruit thus covered should be kept away from mice, as they will eat the tin- foil. Canned fruit should be opened some time before using, that it may be aerated and the flavor improved. There has been a strong feeling against the use of fruit prepared in tin cans. Chemists have examined canned fruit as soon as opened, and found it harmless ; but if the fruit be left The Boston Cook Book. 403 in the tin can, the action of the air causes the acid in the fruit to act upon tlie metal and form a poisonous compound. Care should be taken to remove the fruit from the can as soon as opened. Sweet Pickles. Eight pounds of fruit, four pounds of best brown sugar, one quart of vinegar, and one cup of mixed whole spices, — stick cinnamon, cassia buds, allspice, and cloves / less of the latter than of the former. Tie the spices in a bag, and boil with the vinegar and sugar. Skim well ; then add the fruit. Cook ten minutes, or till scalded and tender. Skim out the fruit, and put into stone jars. Boil the syrup five minutes longer, and pour over the fruit. The next daj^ pour off the syrup and boil down again, and do this for three mornings. Keep the bag of spices in the sjTup. Tomatoes. — Scald, remove the skins, and cook without breaking if possible. Peaches. — Scald or wipe off the “wool,’’ and leave them whole. Do not stick them with cloves. If very ripe, merel}" pour the hot syrup over them on three suc- cessive mornings. Pears. — Select sound fruit, not too ripe. Pare, and leave them whole with the stems on. Cook till tender. Pipe Cucumber or Watermelon Rind. — Cut the pared rind into thick slices. Boil one ounce of alum in one gal- lon of water, pour it on the rinds, and let them stand in it several hours on the back of the stove. Take out into cold water, and when cold boil them half an hour in the sweet pickle. Ripe Muskmelon or Canteloupe. — Pare, and cut into thick slices. Pour the boiling syrup over them. The next morning pour off the S3Tup, boil five minutes, and pour it boiling hot over the melon. Repeat this on three mornings. Pineapple. — Slice it, or with a fork pick it off from the centre, in small pieces, and prepare as for melon. 404 The Boston Cook Book. . Tomato Catchup. {Mrs. Campbell') Boil one bushel of ripe tomatoes., skins and all, and when soft strain through a colander to remove the skins only. Mix one cup of salt^ two pounds of brown sugar, half an ounce of cayenne pepper, three ounces each of ground all- spice, mace, and celery seed, two ounces of ground cinna- mon, and stir into the tomato. Add two quarts of best cider vinegar, and when thoroughl}^ mixed strain through a sieve. Pour all that runs through into a large kettle, and boil slowly till reduced one half. It is an improvement to add a pint of brandy ten minutes before the catchup is done, but man}’ think it unnecessary. Put it in small bottles, seal, and keep in a cool, dark place. Piccallili, or Chow Chow. 1 peck green tomatoes. 1 cup salt. 6 small onions. 1 large head celery. 2 cups brown sugar. 1 teaspoonful white pepper. 1 tablespoonful ground cinnamon. 1 tablespoonful ground allspice. 1 tablespoonful mustard. 2 quarts good, sharp vinegar. Chop the tomatoes, mix the salt with them thoroughly^ and let them stand over night. In the morning pour off the water, and chop the onion and celery. Mix the sugar, pepper, cinnamon, and mustard. Put in a porcelain kettle a layer of tomatoes, onion, celery, and spices, and so on until all is used, and cover with the vinegar. Cook slowly all day, or until the tomatoes are soft. Cauliflower, or cabbage, or one quart of cucumbers may be used with the tomatoes. Sliced or grated horseradish gives a pleasant flavor. Pickled Cucumbers. {Miss Harriott Ward.) To one hundred arid fifty small-sized cucumbers take one pint of salt, dissolved in boiling water to cover them. Let them remain in a covered vessel for forty-eight hours. Then drain, and wipe each one carefully. Put them in a pickle-pot or firkin with one large onion, peeled and The Boston Cook Book. 405 stuck tall of cloves, one green pepper^ some scraped horse- radish^ and a small bit of alum. Boil vinegar enough to cover them. Fill a muslin bag with one cup of mixed spices., — whole cloves., whole allspice., peppercorns., stick cinnamoi^ white mustard seed., and a flake of mace., and boil ten minutes with the vinegar. Put this bag in the firkin when 30U pour on the boiling vinegar. When cucumbers are gathered fresh from the vines everj' da^’, the}' may be kept in brine till wanted. Make the brine strong enough to float an egg, — a pin t of coarse salt and six quarts of boiling water., boiled and skimmed clear. Pick the cucumbers as they ripen, wash carefully without removing the prickles., leave a bit of the stem on, and keep them covered with the brine. Soak, as required, in fresh cold water two days, and pour boiling spiced vinegar over them. Mixed Pickles. {Mrs. Poor.) 150 small cucumbers. 1 quart small martinoes. 1 quart small button onions. 1 medium cauliflower. Rind of 34 watermelon. 3 pints green string beans. 3 cups salt. 4 quarts cold water. 3^ pound horseradish root. 1 tablespoonful white mustard seed. 1 tablespoonful stick cinnamon, broken into half-inch pieces. 1 tablespoonful whole cloves. 3^ tablespoonful peppercorns. 34 tablespoonful allspice. 34 tablespoonful whole mace. 1 teaspoonful celery seed. 2 quarts white wine vinegar. 1 ounce alum. 2 quarts boiling water. 1 gill alcohol. Wipe the cucumbers and martinoes with a damp cloth. Cut the cucumbers lengthwise into quarters, and the mar- tinoes into halves. Scald and peel the onions ; wash tlie cauliflower, watermelon rind, and beans ; break the cauli- flower into small pieces, and cut the melon rind about the size of the pieces of cucumber. Dissolve the salt in the cold water. Put the pickles in a large earthen or tight wooden vessel, and pour the brine over them ; if they are not covered, add more cold water. Put a large earthen plate over them, with a clean brick or stone to keep them 4o6 The Boston Cook Book. under the brine. Let them stand*two days, remove them from the brine, and wash in cold water. Wash and scrape the horseradish root. Pack the pickles in a stone jar or firkin. Put all the spices into a bag made of strainer cloth. Boil the vinegar, spices, and alum in a porcelain kettle ten minutes, skim carefully, add the boiling water, and pour immediately over the pickles. If a stronger spice be desired, leave the bag on the top of the pickles. Set them in a cold place, with the plate and weight over them to keep them under the vinegar. In about two weeks add the alcohol, and in four weeks they will be ready to use. Mustard Pickles. {Mrs. John Sheldon.) Equal quantities of small cucumbers., the largest ones sliced, green tomatoes sliced, cauliflower picked into flow- erets, and small button onions. Keep them covered with strongly salted water twenty-four hours. In the morning scald the brine, and dissolve in it a bit of alum the size of a nutmeg. Pour the boiling brine over the pickles. When cold, drain thoroughly and prepare as much vinegar as there were quarts of brine. To one quart of vinegar use one cup of brown sugar, half a cup oi flour, and one fourth of a pound of ground mustard. Boil the sugar and vinegar. Mix the flour and mustard, and stir the boiling vinegar into it, and when smooth pour it over the pickles. Canned Fruit. (Mrs. John Sheldon.) Put the prepared fruit in a jar, and cover with boiling syrup sweetened to taste. On three successive mornings drain off the syrup, boil again, and pour over the fruit. The last morning, let fruit and syrup come just to the boil- ing-point, but do not boil; then seal immediate!}'. Iruit prepared in this wa}' has been tested b}" the author and found perfect. Strawberries preserve their shape and never ferment. The Boston Cook Book. 407 GENERAL HINTS ON CARING AND COOKING FOR INVALIDS. 'Ventilation. — The first condition of comfort and re- cover3' to the patient is that the room be perfectly ven- tilated, either directlj^ or from fresh air in an adjoining room. A suni\y exposure and an open fire, and in sum- mer an open fireplace, are essential aids. After all these points are secured, care must be taken that the air be not vitiated by anything in the room. Growing plants are more healthful than cut flowers ; unless the room be large and air}', the latter should not be allowed for any length of time, and even then should be removed as soon as their freshness is gone. If possible, avoid having a kerosene lamp in a sick-room. The odor is irritating to the mucous membrane, and in some conditions positively harmful. The wick should never be turned below the point of free combustion, either in the room of the sick or well. If you wish a dim light, place the lamp outside the door, or shade it by a screen. Never turn it down, as it will inevitably vitiate the atmosphere. Avoid noise in replenishing the fire, by bringing the coal in a paper bag, and putting bag and all upon the fire. Keep all medicines and everything suggestive of a sick-room out of sight. The Bed. — Arrange the bed so that the patient may be shielded from any draught. Neither sun nor lamp light should shine directly in the eyes. Whenever it is possible, change the position of the bed, furniture, and pictures, that the eye may have something new and inter- esting to dwell upon, if such changes interest instead of 4o8 The Boston Cook Book. distress the invalid. Two small beds, that the patient may find relief in change, are desirable ; or, if possible, procure an invalid’s bed, which admits of many changes of position and the airing and changing of the bed with no accompanying fatigue. Cleanliness. — It is of the first importance that the bed linen and clothing of the patient should be kept fresh by frequent changes, and thoroughly dried and aired. Be careful to suppl}’' the needed warmth by light but not over- abundant clothing. The patient should be bathed freelj’ ; avoid a chill by giving a sponge bath with alcohol and warm water, exposing only a part of the body at a time to the air, and rub till perfectly dry. AVet a cotton-fiannel bag, made with the nap side out, in cold water, wring it slightl}", and tie it over the broom to use in sweeping. Be careful to wash it every time it is used. It is quite essential that the floor of a sick-room should be kept clean. Remove all dust with a damp cloth. The cleansing, drying, or airing of all objects should be done outside of the sick-room. Keep the room^ the bed, the patient, and everything about }’ourself absolutel}" neat and clean. Conversation. — In extreme sickness let no unnecessary word be spoken in a sick-room, and no needless, noisy, nor abrupt movements be made. Let the voice be calm and clear, neither loud nor whispering. In speaking to the patient do so in the way that requires the least effort in response, and never consult him about his food. Avoid all discussions of the disease, the medicine, and any excit- ing topic either with or before him. Do not excite the patient by needless conversation with the doctor outside of the sick-room. Never whisper, even when the patient is asleep or in delirium, because a whisper is more penetrat- ing than a low full tone. During convalescence do not weary with conversation ; let it always be bright and cheer- ful, and, as far as possible, of things outside the sick-room. Cultivate the power of talking to, rather than with, a sick person. The Boston Cook Book. 409 Conveniences V7i a Sick- Boom. — “In severe sickness a glass tube is useful for feeding drinks and gruels : and little white china boats with spouts are also good. A wooden tray with legs six or seven inches high, to stand upon the bed, is very convenient for serving meals.” To keep Ice for a Sick- Boom. — Tie a square of coarse white flannel over a pitcher, leaving a cup-shaped depres- sion of the flannel in the pitcher. Put broken ice in the flannel, and cover it tightl}’ with a thicker flannel. The ice will keep all night, and the water ma}' be poured off as wanted. In applying hot bandages dip the flannel in boiling water, place it in the centre of a coarse towel, and twist and wring the ends of the towel ; or place the flannels in a steamer over hot water until penetrated with the steam ; they will then need no wringing. Feeding the Patient. — When feeding the patient, do it gentl}^ and neatly. Anticipate his wants, and let the food be a surprise as far as practicable. In severe sickness give nourishment in a small quantity often., and never fail to give it immediatel}' after a long sleep. During convales- cence food should be given at longer, but regular intervals. If the patient be unable to use a toothbrush, wet a bit of soft cloth and wipe the teeth and gums, and give a little water or acid drink to soften the diy mucous membrane and destroy’ the bad taste in the mouth, before offering an}" food. Let everything prepared for the invalid be arranged to please the eye as well as the palate. Serve less than you think the patient requires, and give as much variety as possible, serving in different forms or in different dishes if the material must be the same. Hot liquids should be hot when they reach the patient, not merely when they leave the kitchen. Serve them in a hot pitcher, and pour only a little into the hot cup or bowl, and so avoid its run- ning over into the saucer or too rapid cooling. Never insult the patient by offering him a slice of dough covered with charcoal, under the name of toast. When the meal is 410 The Boston Cook Book. over, remove immediate!}^ every trace of food from the room. Keep in the sick-room choice fruit or any delica- cies which have been sent to the patient only long enough to gratify the eye, then remove to a cool place, and serve as fresh and daintily as possible. Wines or liquors of any kind should never be given without the advice of a physician. Young persons do not need them, and, in any form of fever, stimulants are posi- tively harmful. In some extreme cases, among very old people, or where there is a great lack of recuperative power, they may be given. < Visitors. — Visitors should never be admitted to a sick- room, except with the consent of the physician. Never visit a sick-room when in a violent perspiration or with an empty stomach, as then the system more readily re- ceives contagion. If obliged to sit up all night with a patient, provide yourself with something to eat, if nothing more than a cake of chocolate, that there may be no needless exhaustion. Not the least of the. many qualifications desirable in a good nurse is a thorough knowledge of the nature, use, and digestibility, as well as the best methods of preparing dif- ferent kinds of food, and of their adaptation to different forms of disease. Such knowledge is of still greater im- portance to ever}’ physician, and fully as essential as the study of drugs. Nurses, alas! are often wholly unquali- fied, or not to be obtained at all ; and then that patient is fortunate, indeed, who has a physician who can in emergency fill the treble office of nurse, cook, and doctor. Diet for the Invalid- First Condition. — Sometimes the system from over- taxation, either mental or physical, needs a period of complete rest or comparative inaction ; or, as in the com- mencement of many forms of sickness, the diet should be food which merely satisfies the hunger and which soothes and reduces inflammation and quenches thirst, but does The Boston Cook Book. 411 not nourish nor stimulate. Foods proper at such times come under the head of starch3'^ gruels, gelatinous soups and jellies, oranges, grapes, etc., and mucilaginous, acid, and aromatic drinks. Flour or Arrowroot Gmel. 1 cup boiling water. 2 teaspoonfuls flour, wet in cold 1 saltspoonful salt. water. Cornstarch and rice-flour gruels are made in a similar manner. Use a little more of wheat flour than of the others. Mix the flour and salt, and make into a smooth thin paste with cold water, then stir it into the boiling water. Cook five minutes, or until the desired consistenc}’ is ob- tained. Strain ; then add sugar ^ if preferred, and thin with a little milk. If intended for a fever patient, a little lemon juice improves the flavor ; if for a patient with sum- mer complaint, boil with the gruel half an inch stick of cinnamon or a little nutmeg.^ — the spice will help to re- duce the laxative condition. Sick people soon tire of sweets, and gruels should be sweetened onl^' slightly, if at all. Flour and starch}" gruels should not be given in typhoid fever, or when the disease is located in the intes- tines. Nor should they ever be used in excess, as, being rapidly swallowed, they are unaffected by the alkaline action of the saliva, and pass through the stomach un- changed and severely tax the intestines. They should be kept in the mouth and mingled with the saliva before swallowing. Milk Porridge. 2 dozen raisins, quartered. 1 tablespoonful flour. 2 cups milk. Salt to taste. Boil the raisins in a little water twenty minutes. Let the water boil away, and add the milk. When boiling, add the flour rubbed to a thin paste with a little cold milk. Boil eight or ten minutes. Season with salt and 412 The Boston Cook Book. strain. Or omit the raisins, and add sugar to taste ; or add the beaten white of one egg after it comes from the stove. ' Barley Gruel. Boil one ounce oi pearl barley a few minutes, to cleanse it. Pour off the water, add one quart of cold water and half a teaspoonful of salt^ and simmer one hour, or until reduced one half. Strain it ; sweeten to taste, and add a little lemon or nutmeg^ if desired. Barley contains muci- lage, and is soothing and refreshing in fevers and gastric inflammation. Indian Meal Gruel. 1 tablespoonful flour. 1 teaspoonful salt. 2 tablespoonfuls corn meal. 1 quart boiling water. Mix the flour, meal? and salt. Make into a thin paste with a little cold water, and stir into the boiling water. Boil thirt}' minutes, stirring often ; thin with milk or cream. Milk may be used instead of water by mak- ing the gruel in a double boiler. Indian meal gruel requires longer time for cooking than any purelj- starchy gruels. No. 2. — Wet one heaping teaspoonful of meal and one saltspoonful of salt in a little cold water, and stir into one cup of boiling water. Boil slowly thirty minutes. Indian corn meal is heating in its nature, and should never be given where there is any inflammatory condition of the s}^stem. If given during convalescence after scarlet fever, it sometimes produces glandular swellings. When there is a deficiency of natural warmth, and no inflamma- tion, it may be given without harm. 2 tablespoonfuls oatmeal 34 teaspoonful salt. Oatmeal Gruel. 1 quart boiling water. Boil one hour. Strain, and serve with milk or cream. The Boston Cook Book. 413 2^0^ 2. — Pound half a cup of coarse oatmeal until it is mealy. Put it in a tumbler, and fill the tumbler with cold water. Stir well ; let it settle ; then pour off the mealy water into a saucepan. Fill again, and pour off the water, and again repeat this, being careful each time not to dis- turb the sediment in the bottom of the tumbler. Then boil the water twent}’ minutes. Add one saltspoonful of salt. If very thick, add a little cream or milk. Strain and serve hot. Beef essence or beef tea may be used in place of cream. This is the most palatable and convenient way of making gruel from oatmeal. Farina Gruel. 1 tablespoonful Pecker’s farina. 1 cup boiling water. 1 saltspoonful salt. 1 cup milk. Put all but the milk in the double boiler, and cook fifteen minutes, or until it thickens, then add the milk and boil again. Sweeten to taste. Farina is a granulated preparation of the inner portion of the finest -na heat, freed from bran and flour}^ dust. It contains nitrogenous or flesh-forming material, is easily digested, and is a more nutritive food for invalids and children than cornstarch, sago, arrowroot, or tapioca, which contain only starch. Cracker Gruel. 1 cup milk. teaspoonful salt. Boil up once and serve. 4 tablesp. powdered cracker. 1 cup boiling water. Egg Gruel. 1 egg (yolk beaten well). 1 cup hot milk. 1 teaspoonful sugar. White of egg, beaten till foamy. Flavor with nutmeg or lemon. Good for a violent cold, if taken very hot after retiring. 414 The Boston Cook Book. . Panada, No. 1. 1 cup stoned raisins. 1 quart water. 2 slices toasted bread, or 1 cup bread crumbs. 2 eggs. 1 tablespoonful sugar. Boil the raisins one hour. Skim out the raisins, and add the bread to the boiling water ; boil fifteen minutes, stirring well. Beat the eggs, add the sugar, and pour the panada over them, stirring all the time. No. 2. — Split tico Boston or Graham crackers. Put, them into a bowl, sprinkle with sugar and salt., and cover with boiling water. Set the bowl in a pan of boiling water for half an hour, or until the crackers are clear. Slide them out into a hot saucer, and serve very hot with sugar and cream. No. 3. — Boil one tablespoonful of cracker crumbs five minutes in one cup of boiling water., slightly sweetened., salted., and flavored with lemon. teaspoonful salt. Put the meal and salt in the double boiler, pour on the boiling water, and cook two or three hours. Remove the cover just before serving, and stir with a fork to let the steam escape. If the water in the lower boiler be strongly salted, the meal will cook more quickly. Serve with sugar., or salt., and cream. Baked sour apples., apple sauce., and apple jelly are delicious eaten with the oatmeal. They should be served with the mush, and the cream and sugar poured over the whole. They give the acid flavor which so many crave in the morning. Coarse oatmeal is not suitable for any form of water brash, acidity, or bowel irritation. It often causes erup- tions on the skin in warm weather. Oatmeal Mush for Children or Invalids. 1 cup granulated oatmeal. 1 scant quart boiling water. The Boston Cook Book, 415 Indian Meal Mush. 1 cup corn meal. 1 cup cold milk. yi teaspoonful salt. 1 pint boiling water. Mix the meal and salt with the cold milk. Stir this gradiiall^^ into the boiling water. Cook half an hour in a double boiler, stirring often. Graham Mush. Mix half a cup of Graham flour and half a teaspoon- ful of salt. Make it into a thin smooth paste with a little cold water. Stir it into one pint of boiling water. Cook twenty minutes, stirring often. Serve with cream. Bye 3fush is made in the same manner, and sometimes served with molasses. Gluten 3Iush. — Use one cup of gluten to one pint of boiling water., and cook as above. Being destitute of starch, it will not thicken like Rye Mush. Brain Food. (^Health Food Co.) Wet one cup of Brain Food in a little cold loater., and stir it into one quart of salted boiling water. Cook over hot water one to two hours. Eat, hot or cold, with sugar and cream. Rice Water or Jelly. 2 tablespoonfuls rice. 1 Salt and sugar to taste. 1 quart cold water. | Pick over and wash the rice, and cook in water one hour, or till the rice is dissolved. Add salt and sugar to taste. If intended for jelly, add lemon juice and strain into a mould. When cold, serve with sugar and cream. If to be used as a drink, add more hot water, enough to make a thin liquid, and boil longer. Add half a square inch of stick cinnamon., and strain. Serve hot or cold. Rice is easily digested and almost wholly assimilated ; it is good in diarrhoea or dysentery. 4i6 The Boston Cook Book. Tapioca Jelly. cup pearl tapioca. 1 tablespoonful lemon juice. 1 pint cold water. 1 heaping tablespoonful sugar. 1 saltspoonful salt. Pick over and wash the tapioca. Add the cold water, and cook in a double boiler until entirely dissolved. Then add the salt, lemon juice, and sugar. Turn into a mould. Serve with sugar and cream. Half a cup of strawberry, raspberry, or blackberry jam or currant jelly may be used in place of lemons. Irish Moss Jelly. cup Irish moss. 1 lemon 1 pint boiling water. cup sugar. Soak the moss in cold water until soft. Pick over and wash again. Then put it into the boiling water, and sim- mer until it is dissolved. Add the lemon juice and sugar. Strain into a mould. Use currant jelly in place of lemon, or steep four ox five figs with the moss. Sea mosses contain bromine and iodine, and are useful in rheumatic affections. Iceland moss may be used in the same manner. This, when dried, contains more starch than potatoes, and more flesh food than oatmeal or corn. Restorative Jelly. y^ box gelatine. 1 cup port wine. 1 tablesp. powdered gum arabic. 2 tablespoonfuls lemon juice. 3 tablespoonfuls sugar. 2 cloves. Put all together in a glass jar, and cover closely. Place the jar on a trivet in a kettle of cold water. Heat it slowly, and when the mixture is dissolved, stir well and strain. Pour into a shallow dish, and when cool cut it into small squares. This is good for an old person or a ver^’’ weak patient. Mutton Broth. To make it quickly for an invalid, chop one pound of lean juicy mutton very fine ; pour over it one pint of cold The Boston Cook Book. 417 loater. Let it stand until the water is very red, then heat it slowly. Let it simmer ten minutes. Strain, season, and add tioo tablespoonfuls of soft-boiled rice^ or thicken it slightl}' with rice flour wet with cold water. Serve hot. ■When given to a person with a severe cold, or a consump- tive, the fat should not be removed, as it is soothing to the chest, and when absorbed by the rice or some starchy material is not uninviting to the eye. For a fever patient, tne fat should be removed. When you have not time to cool the broth, a piece of soft tissue paper passed over the surface helps to take up an\^ globules of fat which will not come off with a spoon. Remove the fat and bones from one pound of the neck of mutton. Cut the meat into dice, and add to it one table- spoonful of loell-washed barley and one pint of cold water. Heat slowl3^ and simmer two hours. Put the bones into one cup of cold water., and boil gently half an hour. Then strain into the meat and barley. Season with salt. Skim off the fat, and serve with whole-wheat or gluten wafers. Scald the feet, and clean thoroughly’. Split, break the bones, and put them into the cold water. Heat slowly, and simmer gently’^ until reduced to three pints. Strain, and when cool remove the fat. Add the other ingredients except the wine. Put it over the fire, and stir until hot. Let it boil five minutes, or till a thick scum has formed. Set it back on the stove ; skim, and add the wine. Strain through a fine napkin into a shallow dish. When ready to serve, cut it into blocks, or break it up lightly with a fork. If intended for broth*, simply remove the fat, season to Barley Soup. Calves’-Foot Jelly or Broth. 4 calves’ feet. 4 quarts cold water. 1 cup sugar. 2 lemons. 2 inch stick cinnamon. 1 inch blade mace. 3 eggs (whites and shells). 1 pint wine. 27 4i8 The Boston Cook Booh, taste, and stir it into a beaten egg ; or add sago or tapi- oca^ having first soaked and boiled it till soft. Veal broth is not very palatable in itself ; and as it does not contain the nutritive qualities of beef or mutton broth, it is not well to use it in the sick-room except for a variet}’. Chicken Jelly or Broth. Clean a small chicken. Disjoint and cut the meat into half-inch pieces. Remove all the fat. Break or pound the bones. Dip the feet into boiling water, and scald until the skin and nails will peel off. The feet contain gelatine, and when well cleaned ma}’ be used for jellj\ Cover the meat, feet, and bones with cold water ; heat very slowly, and sim- mer till the meat is tender. Strain, and when cool remove the fat. Season with salt^ pepper., and lemon., and add the shell and white of one egg. Put it over the fire, and stir well until hot. Let it boil .five minutes. Skim, and strain through a fine napkin. Pour it into small cups, and cool it if intended for jelly. When the patient can take it, small dice of the breast meat may be moulded in the jell}’. Serve hot, without clearing, if intended for broth. Beef Jelly or Broth. Prepare the same as for Bouillon (page 131). If in- tended for jelly, clear it as directed for Clear Soup. Barley Water. 1 tablespoonful pearl barley. lemon. 3 blocks sugar. 1 quart boiling Avater. Wash the barle}’ in cold water, then pour off the water, and put the barley, sugar, and lemon into the boiling water, and let it stand covered and warm for three hours ; then strain it. Currant jelly or orange juice may be used in- stead of lemon. This is a valuable demulcent in colds, affections of the chest, hectic fever, strangury and other diseases of the bladder or urinary organs. The Boston Cook Book, 419 Gum Water. 1 ounce clean gum arabic, and ounce sugar, dissolved in 1 pint boiling water. 1 lemon (juice). When dissolved, add the lemon juice, and strain through a fine strainer. This is soothing in inflammation of the mucous membrane. Toast Water. — Toast one pint of lehite or brown bread crusts ver\" brown, but be careful not to burn them ; add one pint of cold water j let it stand for one hour, then strain, and add cream and sugar to taste. The nourish- ment in the bread is easily absorbed when taken in this liquid form. Crust Coffee. — Pour one pint of boiling water over two slices of brown toast. Steep ten minutes, and strain. Add sugar and cream to taste. Corn Tea and Rice Coffee. — Brown one cup of dried sweet corn or rice. Pound or grind it fine. Add one pint of cold water., and steep it one hour. Strain, and serve with sugar and cream. These are pleasant and nourishing beverages. Slippery~Elm Tea. — Pour one cup of boiling water upon one teaspoonful of slippery-elm poioder or a piece of the bark. When cool, strain and flavor with lemon juice and sugar. This is soothing in any inflammation of the mucous membrane. Pour boiling water on mashed cranberries., barberries., or whortleberries. W'hen cold, strain, and sweeten to taste. No. 2. — Stir a tablespoonful of any acid jelly or fruit syrup into one tumbler of ice water. No. 3. — Dissolve one tablespoonful of cream of tartar in one pint of water. Sweeten to taste. Apple Tea. — Roast two large sour apples., cover with boiling water ; when cool, pour off the water and strain. Add sugar to taste. Acid Fruit Drinks. 420 The Boston Cook Book. Jelly and Ice. — With a large needle or pin, chip half a cup of ice into bits as large as a pea. Mix with it about the same qiiantiW of lemon., currant., blackberry., or bar- berry jelly. Very refreshing in fevers. Tamarind Water. — Boil two ounces of tamarinds with four ounces of stoned raisins in three pints of water for one hour. Strain and cool. Baked Lemon. — Bake a lemon or sour orange twenW minutes in a moderate oven. When done, open at one end and take out the inside. Sweeten with sugar or mo- lasses. This is excellent for hoarseness and pressure on the lungs. Lemonade. — Squeeze the juice from one lemon and add pne tablespoonful of sugar. Pour on one cup of boiling water., and cool. Or take hot for a cold, after retiring. Flaxseed Lemonade. — Pour one quart of boiling water four tablespoonfuls of whole flaxseed., and steep three hours. Strain and sweeten to taste, and add the of two lemons. Add a little more water if the liquid seem too thick. This is soothing in colds. Irish-Moss Lemonade. — Soak, pick over, and wash one quarter of a cup of Irish moss. Pour on one pint of boiling water. Heat to the boiling-point, but not boil, and keep it at that temperature half an hour. Strain, and squeeze into it iho. juice of one lemon., or enough to give it an acid taste. Sweeten to taste. Add acid phosphate in place of the lemon, if preferred. Wine Whey. — Boil one cup of new milk., and add one cup of wine. Let it stand on the back of the stove five minutes. Strain, and sweeten the whey. The whe}^ or water, of milk contains the sugar, salt, and other saline bodies necessary for digestion and the repair of the mineral part of the bod}'. Herb Teas. Pour one cup of boiling water over one tablesp>oonful of the herbs. Cover the bowl, set it over the teakettle, and The Boston Cook Book. 42 1 steep ten minutes. Sweeten if desired. Mullein tea is good for inflammation of the lungs ; Chamomile tea., for sleeplessness ; Calamus and Catnip tea^ for colds and infants’ colic ; Cinnamon tea, for hemorrhages ; Water- melon-seed and Pumpkin- seed tea, for strangury and summer complaint. A few sprigs of sage, hurnet, halm, and sorrel, half a lemori, sliced, and three pints of boiling water, sweetened to taste, and covered closely until cold, makes an agreeable drink for a fever patient. Another Condition in sickness occurs when, after long- continued, prostrating, or rapidly wasting disease, the sj’s- tem demands immediate nourishment to supply that waste, or when there is a lack of nutrition from any cause. Food that contains the most nourishment in the most easih^ as- similated form is now needed ; but the physician should always be consulted as to the food suitable during the dif- ferent diseases. Liquid food is most suitable, and should he food as well as drink. In nearly all cases of fever milk is given when the patient can take it. Two or three grains of pepsin in a cup of milk or broth facilitate its digestion. In typhoid fever milk has often proved of great value, and' is now generally recommended by the medical faculty in all cases of scarlet fever, nervous disorder, and all diseases arising from imperfect nutrition. It keeps up the strength of the patient, acts well upon the stomach, soothes the in- testines, and promotes sleep. It should be taken slowly to prevent the curdling in a dense mass which may occur if too much be taken at once. A pint of hot milk taken slowly, every four hours, will often check the most violent diar- rhoea and dysentery. It should never be boiled, only scalded. Eggnog or broth, meat broth, farina and oatmeal gruel, and port wine jell}", are all suitable at such times ; but beef juice and tea are most generally used by physicians. They afford a ffuid and easily assimilated form of food, and have a remarkable power of restoring the vigorous action of the heart, and dissipating the sense of exhaustion following 422 The Boston Cook Book. severe, prolonged exertion. When taken alone, they are stimulating rather than nutritive, and a patient would soon starve if he did not have the addition of the fibrine of the meat or of some farinaceous food, like bread crumbs or oatmeal. Beef Essence and Beef Tea. Beef essence is the pure juice of the meat. This is given where a patient needs much nourishment in a small com- pass. Beef tea is the juice of the meat diluted with water. It is a mistake to think that any beef because it is lean or cheap is good enough for beef tea. It will do for the soup-kettle, but not for those who are ill. Meat for beef tea sliould be lean, juicy, and of good flavor. Every par- ticle of fat, skin, and membrane must be removed. The top of the round and the back and middle of the rump con- tain the most and the best-flavored juice. It costs more per pound than some other pieces ; but as it yields nearly double the amount of juice, it is really cheaper. The ten- derloin is often recommended for sick persons. It should never be used for beef tea, as it contains veiy little juice and lacks flavor. When the tender fibre of the meat is desired, it ma}’ be broiled, and served wdth the juice from some tougher steak. Broiling is the quickest, and sometimes the most palatable, way of preparing both essence and tea in an emergenc}’. Drawing and heating the meat and juice is best where a little nourishment is to be given often, and where all the elements of the meat are needed. Soaking in cold w ater, then straining, and heating the juice onlj', is the most economical way, as more than twice the usual amount of juice may be obtained by adding more water when the meat has not been heated. The albuminous juices of meat coagulate at 160° ; if the tea be allowed to boil, they become hard, and settle almost immediately when served. Many make the mistake of straining the tea, or leaving the sediment untouched. It The Boston Cook Book. 423 the tea be heated just enough to make it palatable, it will hold the juices in solution, not separated, and will be thick, and ol* the color of chocolate, and much more palatable and nutritious than when boiled. Broiled Beef Essence. — Broil half a pound of round steak one or two minutes, or until the juice will flow. Cut it into small pieces. Squeeze the juice into a bowl placed over warm water. Salt^ and serve without reheating. Or pour it over a slice of hot dry toast. Broiled Beef Tea. — Add half a cup of boiling water to the meat after broiling as above. Bottled Beef Essence. — Put two pounds of round steak., cut in small pieces, into a jar without water. Place the jar, covered closely, on a trivet in a kettle of cold water. Heat graduall3', and keep it not quite at the boiling-point for two hours, or till the meat is white. Strain, pressing the meat to obtain all the juice ; season with salt. Or place the jar in a moderate oven for three hours. The liquid thus obtained contains all the nutritive parts of the meat. It ma}'- be kept in the refrigerator, and a small portion heated (not boiled), as wanted. Or it may be made into beef tea b}^ diluting with boiling water. Beef essence given ice cold is sometimes more agreeable to a fever patient. Bottled Beef Tea. — Add one cup of cold water to the meat in the jar, and make as above. When the patient can take a little solid food, add two tablespoonfuls of stale bread crumbs to the beef tea, or mix with it oat- meal gruel., or add one teaspoon ful oi finely chopped raw meat. Stewed Beef Essence. — Cut half a pound of round steak into sm^ll pieces, season with one saltspoonful of salt., press it with a pestle or potato- mas her, and let it stand in a covered bowl half an hour. Pour otf the juice, and heat, but do not boil it. Serve immediatel}’’, without straining. As the salt without water will draw out only a small portion of the juice from the meat, a beef tea may be made 424 The Boston Cook Book. from the scraps of meat left by adding one cup of cold water to the meat, and letting it stand two hours. Then strain and heat the liquid ; or the scraps of meat may be put in the soup-kettle. Economical Beef Tea. — Cut one pound oi juicy rump steak into small pieces, and add one cup of cold water. Let it stand in a covered bowl several hours. When ready to serve, squeeze the meat and put it into another bowl. Strain the juice already obtained, add salt to taste, and heat it just enough to be palatable, but not enough to curdle it. Serve at once, while hot. If it be heated over the fire, stir constantly, and take it off the moment it looks thick and is hot ; or heat it carefullj' over hot water. Add another cup of cold water to the scraps of meat, and soak again. Often the third cup of tea may be obtained from the same meat. This is excellent for hard-working people to take, in times of great exhaustion, before a heart}' meal. It is one of the best and most easily prepared forms of soup or meat tea. Dr. Mitchell’s Beef Tea. — One pound of lean heef cut fine ; add one pint of cold water and five drops of muri- atic acid. Put into a glass jar. Place the jar in a pan of water at 110°, and keep it at that temperature for two hours. Then strain through thick muslin until the meat is dry, or press the juice out by squeezing. The acid makes the tea agreeable to a patient with fever, and also ' aids in drawing out the juices of the meat. Baw Beef Sandwiches. — Scrape fine a small piece of fresh, juicy, tender, raw beef. Season highly with salt and pepper. Spread it on thin slices of bread, put them together like a sandwicli, and cut into small squares or diamonds. This will often tempt a patient who could not otherwise take raw meat. The sandwiches are sometimes made more palatable by toasting them slightly. Eggnog. — Beat the yolk of one egg / add one table- spoonful of sugar., and beat to a cream. Add one table- spoonful of wine or brandy., and half a cup of milk. Beat the white of the egg to a froth, and stir in lightl}'. Omit The Boston Cook Book. 425 the milk when more condensed nourishment is required, or the wine, if not approved b}' the physician. It is more palatable when made with the milk. Whipped cream may be substituted for the milk. In many cases it is desirable not to have the white beaten to a froth, as it causes wind in the stomach. Portable Beef Tea. — Two pounds of heef., cut fine, and half a box of gelatine. Soak together in one pint of cold water one hour, squeezing often. Heat to nearl}' the boiling-point. Strain, pressing all the juice from the meat, fill a glass jar with the juice, place the jar in water, and heat till the water outside the jar boils. Seal while hot. Dissolve two teaspoonfuls of the above prepara- tion in half a cup of boiling water add a few grains of salt., and serve at once. A convenient form of food for travellers. Broiled Beef Pulp. — Scrape raw beef to a pulp, make it into small cakes, and broil as steak. Season with salt and a few grains of cayenne pepper., and serve hot. Egg Tea and Coffee. — Beat the yolk of one egg ; add one tablespoonful of sugar ^ and beat to a cream ; add one cup of tea or coffee., either hot or cold, and half a cup of cream. Stir in lighth’ the beaten white of the egg, and serve at once. Egg and Beef Tea. — Add one cup of hot beef tea to the egg, beaten as above. Dishes for Convalescence. When the crisis of disease is past, the system needs gradual but complete nutrition, and the appetite is clamor- ous, fickle, or perhaps altogether wanting. Then is the time most critical for the patient, and most tiying to the tact, skill, and patience of the nurse. Many a person has been carried safely through a long and distressing illness, only to succumb at last to injudicious feeding, because of the nurse’s ignorance or his own indiscretion. When solid food can be safely given, the patient may take it in any of the forms given in the preceding rules. 426 The Boston Cook Book. The following dishes may also be used : broiled squab, venison, chicken, chop, steak, salmon, chicken panada, boiled halibut, roast beef, mutton, cream toast, eggs, and 03’sters (except when especially forbidden by the physi- cian), sweetbreads, baked potatoes, asparagus, onions, macaroni, custards, Charlotte Russe, snow pudding, ice- cream, sherbet, blanc-mange. Bavarian cream, sponge cake, simple puddings, stewed fruits, and many others, — receipts for which will be found as indicated in the table of lessons in the Nurse’s Course. Broiling for the Invalid (^Broiled Steak or Venison). — Wipe with a clean wet cloth. Grease the gridiron with a bit of the fat. Broil over a clear fire, turning as often as you can count ten. Cook four minutes if the steak be about one inch thick ; not longer, as further cooking dries up the juices and destroys some of the nutritive qualities. Be careful to serve on a hot platter, and season with salt^ and with pepper and butter if approved. Birds, chicken breasts, fish, and chops are better when seasoned, and wrapped in buttered paper, and then broiled, as this pre- vents them from burning or becoming too diy. Birds, fish, and chops are better, and more conveniently eaten, if boned before broiling. Broiled Steak., No. 2. — Broil half a pound of round steak and one slice of tenderloin. With a meat or lemon squeezer squeeze the juice from the round over the tender- loin. Season, and serve hot. Chicken Panada. — One cup of cold roasted or boiled chicken., pounded to a paste. Add half a cup of stale bread crumbs., and enough boiling chicken liquor to make it a thick gruel. Salt to taste. Boil one minute, and serve hot. When the chicken has been roasted, boil the bones to obtain the liquor. Chicken Custard. — Scald together one cup of stro?ig chicken stock and one cup of cream. Pour it over the well-beaten yolks of three eggs., and cook in a double boiler till slightl}’’ thickened. Salt to taste, and serve cool in custard cups. The Boston Cook Book. 427 Crackers and Orange Marmalade. — Toast three crack- ers slightly. Dip them quickly into hoiling salted water. Spread with a little butter., and put a layer of orange mar- malade., or any other jell}'^ or preserve, between them. Set them in the oven a few minutes before serving. Racahout des Arabes. {Mrs. Devereux.) pound best French chocolate. 34 pound arrowroot. 1 pound rice flour. 34 pound loaf sugar, sifted. These materials are to be thoroughly mixed and rubbed together. A dessert spoonful of this mixture should be slightly wet with milk or water., then stirred into one pint of hoiling milk., and boiled live minutes. This is excellent food for invalids or convalescents. Serve hot, as a bever- age ; or make much thicker, to be eaten cold as a delicate pudding. Laban. {Miss Parloa.) — One quart of new milk., into which stir one tablespoonful of yeast. Let it stand in a cool place to harden, which will take from three to twenty- four hours. When hard, take a tablespoonful of the mix- ture, and stir it into a quart of new milk., and set away to harden. This is “ Laban.” It should be eaten with sugar and cream. If a constant supply be needed, reserve 07ie tablespoonful each day for the next preparation. This re- ceipt is furnished b}" a lady who obtained it in Syria, and who advises a second or a third trial if the first attempt be unsuccessful. The dish is often palatable when the stomach is too weak for almost an}^ other solid food. This is similar to Koumiss, or fermented mare’s milk. Ash Cake. {Mrs. Henderson^ — Wet corn meal., salted to taste, with enough cold water to make a soft dough. Let it stand half an hour, or longer. Mould into a cake one or two inches thick, as }'ou prefer. Place it on a clean spot on the hearth, and cover with wood ashes. Bake from half to three quarters of an hour. Wipe before eating. The alkaline properties left by the ashes in the crust render it especiall}’ good for d^’^speptics with an acid stomach. 428 The Boston Cook Book. Gluten Gems. 2 cups gluten. 34 teaspoonful salt. 2 teaspoonfuls baking-powder. 2 tablespoonfuls sugar. 1 egg. 2 cups water or milk. Bake in very hot buttered gem pans, in a hot oven, half an hour. Let ver}" young children have mother’s milk above everN*- thing else ; but if this be impossible, dissolve one ounce of sugar of milk or loaf sugar in three fourths of a pint of boiling water., and mix, as required for use, with an equal quantity of fresh cow's milk. Give it, slightl}* warm, from a sweet, clean bottle. Sugar of milk is quite ex- pensive, but it is very much better for an infant than cane sugar. Teething children should have the milk from but one cow ; the cow should not be fed on green corn nor sour apples, as these produce acidity in the milk. A little thin, well-boiled oatmeal, or farina gruel, may be added to the milk. For summer complaint., use scalded (not boiled) milk, prepared flour, roasted rice, boiled, mashed, and thinned with milk ; also rice jelly or l^p-rley gruel. Avoid all purety starchy gruels, like arrowroot, sago, and cornstarch, upon which many children are fed to death. For constipation., a little salt added to cow’s milk is often beneficial ; also gruel made from prepared corn meal and wheat flour, and oatmeal gruel. For older children use oatmeal, hominy or farina mush, and ripe fruit. Prepared Flour {for Infants) . — Tie one pint of flour, in a stout cloth, put it into boiling water, and let it boil three hours. Turn out the flour ball, and scrape off the gluten which will be found in a mass on the outside of the ball and is not desirable. The inside will prove a dry powder, which is very astringent. Grate a tahlespoonful of this powder from the ball as w'anted ; wet it in cold Diet for Infants and Young Children. The Boston Cook Book. 429 milk or water ^ and stir it into one cup of boiling milk. Boil five minutes. Add a little salt. This is excellent for teething child]-en. If the^^ be troubled with constipation, use one quarter part corn meal and three quarters wheat flour., boil as above, and stir some of the grated lump into boiling cream and water ^ using one part cream to six parts vmter. For an infant the preparation should be thin enough to be taken from a bottle. Flour, after being cooked in this wa}' and then reduced to a finely divided form, loses its adhesive quality ; and the particles are more easily separated and digested. Children and growing persons need the most nutritious food, and plent}’ of it at regular intervals ; but nothing stimulating nor exciting. The}^ should be given, and com- pelled to take, sufficient time for eating ; and should be taught to masticate everything slowlj' and thoroughl3^ They should eat milk ; whole-wheat and cornmeal bread ; oatmeal, farina, and hominy mush ; plentj' of ripe fruit raw, and stewed fruit sweetened ; beef, mutton, veni- son, and poultiy, either roasted, broiled, or boiled; baked potatoes, and asparagus ; green peas, beans, and corn, if every hull be first broken or cut ; eggs, omelets, and cus- tards ; plain sponge cake ; ice-cream, if not too hard and cold, and eaten slowl}^ ; simple fruit and bread puddings ; fruit, tapioca, and farina ; plain gingerbread and molasses cookies ; whole-wheat cookies and wafers. Children should avoid hot bread and griddle-cakes ; fried meats or cakes or doughnuts ; highl}’ seasoned food ; rich gravies ; rich pastry and cake ; pickles, pre- serves, all stimulants such as tea or coffee ; raisins, un- less cooked three hours and stoned ; sago, arrowroot, and other purely starchy foods, except when combined with milk, eggs, or fruit, and eaten with sugar and cream ; and especially veal and pork. Veal is an immature meat, lack- ing in nourishment ; and of the free use of pork, apart from the question of the trichinae, a majority of physi- cians believe that it is largely responsible for the forms of 430 The Boston Cook Book. scrofulous disease that have so undermined the health of civilized nations. What are termed the “fancies” of delicate persons, especially children, are often natural instincts, pointing out what is beneficial to the system, or the reverse. All children have a fondness for sugar, which should be grati- fied in moderation rather than repressed. Their desire for it is natural, else it would not have been placed in the milk which forms their onl}* nourishment in infancy. But cand}’, rich preserves, and cake are not the best form of sweets for children. Pure block sugar or maple sugar is better than any form of candy. It should never be allowed be- tween meals, but ma}' be given occasionally as a part of the dessert. The habit of munching candy between meals destroys the appetite, disturbs the digestion, and is the cause of much illness among children. Children troubled with worms should avoid sugar, preserves, and green vegetables. Milk should enter largely" into the diet of children. It con- tains caseine, or flesh-forming material ; cream and sugar, which are heat producers ; mineral salts, for the bony structure ; and water, as a solvent for all the other materials necessar}^ in nutrition. It should be used with discretion, however ; not drunk immoderatel}’, but taken slowl}- as food after the pattern given b}" nature. Milk as taken is a fluid ; but as soon as it meets the acid of the gastric juice, it is changed to a soft, curdy, cheese-like substance, and then must be digested, and the stomach is overtasked if too much be taken at once. A large glass of milk swal- lowed suddenly will form in the stomach a lump of dense, cheesy curd, which ma}’’ even prove fatal to a weak stomach. Under the action of the stomach this chees}’ mass will turn over and over like a heavy weight ; and as the gastric juice can only attack its surface, it digests ver}’ slowh*. But this same milk, taken slowly, or with dr}' toast, light rolls, or soft dry porridge, forms a porous lump through which the gastric juice can easily pass, and which breaks up every time the stomach turns it over. Milk should be slightl}' The Boston Cook Book. 431 salted, and eaten with bread stuffs or sipped by the spoonful. Cow’s milk produces less heat than human milk ; a child would grow thin upon it unless a little sugar were added. AVheat flour has such an excess of heat-producing mate- rial as would fatten a child unduly, and should have cow’s milk added to it to reduce its fattening power. Hints on Diet for Invalids. Vanilla should not be used as a flavoring in food for sick people. It is medicinal; and all medicines are more or less poisonous, and are not to be taken as food. Pepper is allowable when a slight stimulant is needed. It should be white or caj’enne pepper, as these are less irri- tating than black pepper. Boiled onions are soothing to the mucous membrane. In inflammation of the stomach they are often helpful when a piece of white bread could not be digested. Broiled or roasted squah^ venison^ chicken., mutton.^ and heef., in the order given, are the most easily assim- ilated meats. Game, being rich in phosphates, is valuable for invalids. Broiled bacon, dusted with cayenne, is an easily- digested form of fat. Tomatoes as an article of diet are considered by many physicians a remed}'^ for dj'Spepsia and indigestion. 'Watery, green, or diseased potatoes should never be eaten. If there be only a small spot of deca}’, it taints the whole potato. Young potatoes are very indigestible. Eggs for sick people should be taken raw. When beaten with cold milk, they are more quickl}'" absorbed. If cooked, they should be either very soft, or hard enough to be easily crumbled to a powder, as in any intermediate stage the albumen is tough instead of brittle, and being tough is insoluble by the gastric juice ; these insoluble portions are often delayed in the stomach or intestines till they putrefy, and the sulphuretted h3’drogen and ammonia evolved be- come poisonous to the intestinal canal. 432 The Boston Cook Book. Soups which have in them cream or milk are better for invalids than those rich in gelatine. Cream of Ctlery and Potage a la Peine are especiall}’ suitable. Strong Bouillon is adapted to those suffering from hemorrhoids or any disease of the rectum, as there is no solid waste. Dyspeptics should avoid anything which they (not others) cannot digest. There are so many causes for and forms of dyspepsia, that it is impossible to prescribe one and the same diet for all. Nothing is more disagreeable or useless than to be cautioned against eating this or that, because your neighbor “So-and-so” cannot eat such things. If we would all stud}" the nature and digestion of food, and remember that air and exercise are as essential as food in promoting good health, we could easily decide upon the diet best suited to our individual needs. The diabetic should abstain from sugar and anything which is converted into sugar in digestion, such as all starch}" foods, — fine wheat flour, rice, macaroni, tapioca, liver, potatoes, beets, carrots, turnips, parsnips, peas, beans, very old cheese, sweet omelets, custards, jellies, starchy nuts, sweet sauces, wine, and liquors. He may eat oysters, all kinds of fish, meat, poultry, and game, soups without any starchy thickening, lettuce, cucumbers, watercresses, dandelions, young onions, cold slaw, olives, cauliflower, spinach, cabbage, string beans, ripe fruit of all kinds without sugar, cream, butter, milk sparingly, gluten, flour, oily nuts freely salted, eggs, coflee, and cocoa. The corpulent should abstain from fat as well as sugar and starch. A diet of whole-wheat, milk, vegetables, fruits, and lean meat will produce only a normal amount of fatness ; while an excess of sweets, acids, spices, and shortening keeps the system in an unhealthful condition. Those who can digest fine flour, pastry, sugar, and fats become loaded with fat, but are neither strong nor vigorous. Thin people with weak digestion should also avoid such food ; for thin people are often kept thin by the same food which makes others fat. If they cannot digest the starch, The Boston Cook Book. 433 butter, and fine flour, the system is kept in a feverish, dys- peptic state ; they become nervous or go into consumption for no other reason than that life is burned out by a diet which only feeds the fire and does not renew the tissues. ‘‘Men dig their graves with their teeth; not only by drinking whiskey and using tobacco, but by eating food loaded down with inflammatory materials.” The bilious and gouty should eat sparingl}' of brown meats, cheese, eggs, beans, peas, or food which is rich in albuminoids. A certain amount of albuminoid or nitro- genized food is requisite for tissue growth and repair ; more being required for growing persons and the conva- lescent than for healthy adults. Most Americans are in- clined to eat more albuminoid food than is required. It gives a sensation of energy, of being equal to work, which is very pleasant. But when we have “ too much of a good thing,” more than is needed for repair of tissue, this sur- plus of albuminous material is imperfect!}^ oxidized, the blood is laden with waste, and biliousness or gout is the result. Fish gives less albuminoid waste than meat. People who are inclined to constipation should eat whole-wheat, rye, and corn bread and mushes, ripe fruit, berries, green corn, vegetables, beef, mutton, poultry, milk, cream, and butter ; and should avoid fried or greasy food, hot bread, rich cake, veal, pork, or anj^thing which has so much woody flbre or cellulose diat it only irritates the digestive canal, such as the outer bran of wheat, coarse oatmeal, etc. Those with consumptive tendencies should eat whole- some, easily digested and assimilated food, with plenty of fat, — not in the indigestible form that it takes when mixed with starch, but as in cream, sweet butter, fat of roast or boiled meat, the’fat, but not the lean, of ham and corned beef, oil, salads, corn-meal, oatmeal, etc. The diet of people who are well should be governed largely by their age, occupation, and exercise. Adults should have a variety of wholesome food cooked in different ways. Aged people should have a diet more like that of 28 434 The Boston Cook Book. children. If the occupation tax the muscular strength^ use muscle-making food ; not wholly meat, as many labor- ing people are inclined to think, but grains, peas, beans, cabbage, milk, cheese, eggs, whole-wheat bread, and chocolate, with a small amount of beef, mutton, and poultiy. Students and brairi-workers need more of brain- producing and less of muscle-making food. Brain food must contain phosphorus, wdiich is found large I3' in 03’sters, eggs, fish, lean meat, wheat, peas, beans, and fruit. Those who are engaged in sedentary occupations^ who take little exercise and live in close, confined rooms, should eat onl}" the most easily digested food. People who engage in regular active labor, who take plentj' of exercise m the open air, cultivate a cheerful, happy disposition, live temperatelj’ in ever}' way, and have naturally strong digestive organs, can eat an}' kind of wholesome food that has been properly cooked, and have no consciousness of a stomach or any visceral organs ; and appetite, unless previously impaired, is their best guide. If the digestive organs be not strong naturally, such a mode of life as the above will tend to make them so, more than any amount of drugs or quack medicines. The Boston Cook Book. 435 MISCELLANEOUS HINTS. To Chop Suet. — Cut into small pieces and remove the membrane. Sprinkle with flour, and chop in a cold place to prevent its becoming soft and sticky. To Clean Currants. — Put them in a squash strainer, and sprinkle thickly with flour. Rub them well until they are separated, and the flour, grit, and fine stems have passed through the strainer. Then place the strainer and currants in a pan of water, and wash thoroughl3^ Lift the strainer and currants together, and change the water till clear. Drain between towels, and pick over carefully. Dr}" them in a sunny place or between towels, but do not harden them by putting them into the oven. To Stone Baisins. — Pour boiling water over them, and let them stand in it five or ten minutes. Drain, and rub each raisin between the thumb and finsjer till the seeds come out clean, then cut or tear apart, or chop, if wanted very fine. Core Apples before paring, and there is less danger of their breaking. Egg Shells. — Wash eggs as soon as they come from the market, and then the shells may be used in clearing coflfee, soup, etc. / To Boil a Pudding in a Cloth. — Wring strong cotton cloth out of boiling water, and spread over a bowl. Sprinkle with flour, fill with the pudding, draw the cloth together, and tie tightly, then flour near the opening. Plunge into boiling water, and keep the water boiling during the time for cooking. Add boiling water as needed, and replenish the fire often. Meringues should be put on puddings after they are slightly cool, as, if the pudding h? hot, the egg will liquefy. 436 The Boston Cook Book. Moulds should be greased for any steamed mixture ; wet in cold water for jelly, creams, etc. ; and neither wet nor greased if to be lined with cake. A mould of jelly will cool quicker if placed in a pan of ice water or snow than in the ice-chest. Candied or Crystallized Fruit or Niits. {Mrs. Camp- bell.) — Boil one cup of granulated sugar and one cup of boiling water together for half an hour. Then dip the point of a skewer into the s}Tup and then into cold water. If the thread formed break off' brittle, the syrup is ready. The sjTup must never be stirred, and must boil slowly, not furiously. When done, set the saucepan in boiling water, or pour the syrup into a bowl placed in hot water, to keep the syrup from candying. Take the prepared fruit or nuts on the point of a large needle or fine skewer, dip them into the syrup, and then la^^ them on a dish, which has been lightly buttered or oiled ; or string them on a thread, and after dipping in the syrup suspend them by the thread. When oranges are used, diyide them into eighths, and wipe all moisture. Cherries should be stoned. English walnuts are especial^ nice prepared in this wa}*. To Blanch Almonds and other Nuts. — Remove the shells, cover with boiling water, and let them stand till the dark skin will rub off* easily. Then put them in cold water, rub off* the skins, and dry between towels. Corned Meat. — Fresh meat ma}^ be kept some time by corning it slightl}^ Wipe carefull}', and remove an}' parts that are not sweet and fresh, then rub all over thickly with salt. Or make a brine with rock salt and cold water ; use salt enough to float the meat, then cover, and put a heavy weight on the cover to keep the meat under the brine. Three days’ time is sufficient for corned meat. To Make Paper Boxes. — These can be obtained, in a variet}’ of forms, from the confectioner ; but plain ones may be made in this w^a}’. Take a piece of stiff' white paper, five inches square. Find the centre of the square by folding two opposite corners together and creasing lightly in tlie middle, then open and fold the other tw-o in The Boston Cook Book. 437 the same wa}’. Fold the two sides over till they meet in the centre, then fold the two ends. Open, and cut in the fold down to the line at each end, but not on the side. Fold the sides over on the outside about one quarter of an inch ; then fold the middle part of thfe end in the same way. Then turn the ends of the side pieces round behind the end, and let them meet in the middle, and fold the edge of the end over them. Fasten the ends with a few stitches or with paste. A border of fanc}'^ perforated paper ma}’ be pasted on the edge. A Pastry Bag. — One third of a }’ard of 3’ard-wide rubber sheeting will make three bags one foot square. Fold two opposite corners together, stitch along the edge, and make a triangular bag. Cut off at the point to make an opening large enough to insert the end of a tin tube. It is convenient to have three bags, with openings of different sizes, — one for eclairs, one for ladj" fingers, and one for frosting. The tube for eclairs is three fourths ot an inch wide at the small end ; that for lady fingers, three eighths of an inch ; and the frosting tubes, of various sizes, some of them quite small. Fit the tube into the opening, and fill the bag wdth the mixture. Draw the edges together, and twist the top tightly to keep out the air. tiold the bag in the left hand, with the tube close to the place where the mixture is to be spread ; press with the right, and guide the mixture into an}’ shape desired. A slight pressure is sufficient. When no longer needed, wash the bags in cold (never in hot) water, and dry carefully. Vanilla Sugar. — One pound of lump sugar and one ounce of Mexican vanilla beans. Cut the beans in small pieces, and pound in a mortar, with the sugar, till fine like flour. Sift through a fine strainer, pound the remain- der again, and sift till all is fine. Keep in a tightly corked bottle. Use a tablespoonful for a quart of ice- cream. Or cut the beans into small pieces, and split them that the seeds may be exposed. Put an ounce of the beans in a small jar with a pound of sugar. Sift the sugar as required, and use as above ; add more sugar, 438 The Boston Cook Book. keep closely covered, and use as long as there is any flavor in the sugar. Canned Fruit Juices. — Fruit juices may be kept for a long time by canning the same as whole fruit. They are convenient for water ices and summer beverages. Mash the fruit, and rub the pulp through a fine sieve. Mix about three pounds of sugar with one quart oi fruit juice and pulp. Fill Mason’s jars with the S3*rup, cover, and place in a heater with cold water to come nearly to the top of the jar. Let the water boil half an hour, then fill each jar to the brim, seal, and cool in the water. The Boston Cook Book. 439 THE DINING-ROOM. The subjects of “ The Arrangement of the Table,” “Dinner-Giving,” and “Bills of Fare” have been fully treated in other cook books, and it would be difficult to add to what has already been said. Hints on garnishing, carving, and appropriate combinations of dishes have been given in connection with many of these receipts ; and want of space forbids anything more than some general rules. Above all things, attempt nothing in style or expense beyond what you can well afford. There is no more paltry ambition, nothing that contains more certainly the seeds of unhappiness and disaster, than such a desire for “empty show,” which all sensible people must despise. Let your breakfasts be of wholesome and substantial food. The system needs nourishment in the morning after the long, unbroken fast of the night. The practice of tak- ing onl}’ a cup of tea or coffee with hot biscuit, and possi- bl}^ pie or doughnuts, gives a very poor foundation for the morning’s labor, which is and should be the hard labor of the da}^ Milk, coffee, or chocolate, mushes, fruits, pota- toes or bread, meat, fish, or eggs, in some of their simple and digestible combinations should form the basis of the breakfast. The morning meal should be taken as soon as possible after rising. Any prolonged bodily exertion or exposure to the earl}" morning air, before the stomach is fortified by food, is now condemned by the majority of physicians. The midday and evening meal ^may vary with the occu- pations and habits of the family ; but a regular hour for eating should be observed, whether the more substantial meal come at noon or night ; and if at night sufficient time should be allowed for digestion to be completed before 440 The Boston Cook Book. sleeping. A supper of eold bread and eake or pie is neither appetizing nor satisfying for those who have been hard at work through the daj'. “ Something warm or heart}^, something for a relish,” every man craves .for supper. Toast, brewis, warm tea-cakes, cocoa, oatmeal, warmed-over potatoes, cold meat, made dishes, eggs, oysters, etc., are far better than the common supper of sweets. Every one may have clean, if not fine, table linen. An under covering of cotton flannel or felt made to fit the table is desirable, as it prevents noise, and a linen cloth may be laid over it more smoothly than over the bare table. Thin tablecloths remain fresh longer if stiffened slightly with ver}^ thin starch, but heav}^ damask requires no stif- fening. Keep the cloths in a drawer large enough to hold them without much folding. Avoid making many folds in ironing, and in handling them fold alwa3’s in the creases. In lajdng the cloth, place the centre of it in the centre of the table, and have the folds straight with the edges of the table. Crease the cloth round the edge of the table, that it ma}' drape smoothl}^ Lay a plate, right side up, for each person. If the table be long, place one plate at each end, and those at the sides opposite each other. Place the napkin at the left of the plate, and at dinner place a piece of bread between the folds of the napkin. Place the knives, butter plate, and tumbler at the right of each plate, the forks at the left, and the soup and dessert spoons in front, the handles toward the right hand, — the number of each depending upon the number of courses. The fruit dish or flowers should occupy’ the centre of the table ; the salt and pepper, butter, jelh', pickles, etc., at the corners. Place the various dishes on the table in regular order, straight with the table, or, if at an angle, let there be some uniformit}', never helter-skelter. The cups, plates, and dishes for hot food should be heated in hot water or in a warming-oven. Use a spoon to jfiace ice in delicate glasses or pitchers ; or put in the water first, and then the ice, to avoid breaking. The Boston Cook Book, 441 Do not let tlie table become disordered during the meal. The dishes, plates, etc., should be removed noiselessly, one by one ; and never piled one upon another, after the hast}^ fashion of second-class hotels. If the serving be done by the host and hostess, it is more convenient for them to sit at the sides of the table ; the host serving the substantial dishes, and the hostess the tea or coffee, vegetables or entrees, puddings, and the dessert. Where there are servants to do the waiting, the host and hostess ma}" sit at the ends of the table, as there the}’ can command a better view of their guests, and see that they are properly served. The hostess should serve the soup, salad, dessert, and coffee ; the host, the fish and meat ; and the servants, the vegetables and entrees. At a dinner served d la Busse^ the fruit and flowers only are placed upon the table, the several courses being served from the side. Many volumes have been written upon table etiquette. Some of the suggestions they contain are practical ; others useless. What is considered proper at one place or time is not approved under other circumstances ; and those desirous of observing the usages of good society are often sorely perplexed to keep pace with the variations of fashion. But if, instead of following mere arbitrary rules from the low standpoint of “ style,” we would take for our guidance the best definition of true politeness as given by Dr. Watts, — “ Love manifested in an easy and graceful manner,” — we need never be at a loss as to “ what to do and what not to do.” A moment’s observation will show the strictness of etiquette maintained in the family in which you may be a guest, — for instance, whether the servants are expected to take entire charge of serving everything, or whether the family reserve to themselves something of the happy privilege of courtesy and thought for each other; and you may forget with them, in the mutual interchange of the proper attentions, that freezing formality which sometimes forbids that you should seem to know or care how your neighbor fares. “Think not of 442 The Boston Cook Book. 3’ourself, but of what will contribute most to another’s com- fort or convenience,” remembering that for the time being utter deference should be paid to the evident arrangement of the house at which you are. This is the safest stand- ard for table etiquette, as well as for good manners ever}'- where. No selfish person can ever be trulj^ polite. Children should be carefully trained in table manners as soon as they are old enough to come to the table, and accustomed to perfect politeness ; then there will be no fear of mis- haps, nor special training needed for “ compau}^,” nor any awkward habits to be overcome in later life. After a meal brush up any crumbs that may have fallen, lest they be trodden into the carpet. Collect the knives, forks, and spoons by themselves. Put any food that ma}' be used again on small dishes, never on the dishes used in serving. Scrape the dishes, empt}^ and rinse the cups, and pack neatly near where the}’ are to be washed. Brush the crumbs from the cloth, instead of shaking it, then fold and put it away carefully. Never pile nice china or any other dishes in the dishpan. Begin with a pan half filled with hot soapy water. Keep the soap in a shaker made for that purpose, or in a tin cup ; make a strong lather in the cup, and use as needed. Never leave the soap in the dishpan to waste and stick to the dishes. Wash glasses first. Slip them in sideways, so that the hot water will touch outside and inside at once, and then there will be no danger of breaking from unequal expansion. Wash one at a time, and wipe instantly with- out draining or rinsing. Wash the silver and wipe at once, as it keeps bright longer if wiped out of hot soapy water. Keep a cake of silver soap at hand, and rub each piece of silver as soon as discolored. Then wash the china, begin- ning with the cups, saucers, pitchers, and least greasy dishes, and changing the water as soon as cool or greasy- Place these dishes in the rinsing-pan with the cups inside up and plates resting on the edges, that they may be scalded inside as well as outside, and drain quickly. Scald and wipe immediately. The Boston Cook Book. 443 “Dave’s” method of washing dishes, though not in general use, has been proved satisfactor3^ Place a pan of cold water between the washing and rinsing pans. After washing and wiping the glasses and silver, add more hot water, and wash the china first in the hot suds, then dip each dish instantl}' into the cold water, and stand it on the edge to drain in the rinsing-pan. The cold water rinses off the hot suds, and the sudden change of tempera- ture dries the dishes almost instantly’ ; and the^^ require little or no wiping. The}’ will be neither “ stick}’ nor streak}’.” Where there is only one woman for “ cook, waitress, hostess, and kitchen girl,” it is well, after the table is cleared and the dishes neatly packed, to wash first the kitchen dishes, and pots and kettles ; then with clean water and towels wash and wipe the table dishes. The hands will be left in much better condition than when the pots and kettles are washed last. The Care of Kitchen Utensils. A complete list of kitchen utensils is not given in this work, as the variety and number needed will be largely determined by circumstances. There are several utensils, which are not perhaps in general use, which lessen the labor of cooking, and add much to the attractiveness of food prepared by their aid. There is nothing that makes so much difference between ordinary and delicate cooking as a set of strainers. There should be one of very fine wire for sifting soda, spices, etc., and for straining custards and jellies ; others with meshes from one sixteenth to one eighth of an inch in diameter ; also a squash strainer and a colander. Ex- tension wire strainers are very convenient. Keep also a supply of strainer cloths^ made from coarse crash or cheese cloth^ and fine napkin linen. A set of oval tin moulds^ a melon mould., and one or two fancy moulds are convenient for entrees, puddings, and joUies. 444 The Boston Cook Book. Other useful articles are Dover egg-heaters^ large and small ; ordinary small wooden spoons and the larger per- forated ones ; a lohip churn ; granite saucepans and stew- pans^ holding from half a pint to six quarts ; double boilers ; a wire basketiov frying ; 2^. potato slicer ; 2^ fine wire broiler for toast, and two coarser ones for steak and fish ; a set of pastry bags and frosting tubes ; fancy vegetable cutters; a glass rolling-pin ; and, above all, a small sharp-pointed knife., made from the best steel, for paring potatoes, turnips, etc., and a set of tin measuring-cups holding half a pint, and divided into quarters and thirds. It is a mistake to have many large, unwieldy dishes. Small saucepans and small bowls are more convenient, and granite or agate ware is much lighter to handle and more easily kept clean than ironware. Buckets are convenient for keeping sugar and small quantities of flour. Glass jars or wide-mouthed bottles are best for nearly all groceries, such as rice, tapioca, meal, raisins, etc. They are easil}- cleansed, and the contents are plainlj^ seen. The}’ may be kept air-tight, or, if that be unnecessary, old jars not suit- able for canning may be utilized. A refrigerator should be examined daily and kept thor- oughly clean. If a suitable brush cannot be had, a long stiff wire with a bit of cloth on the end should be used to clean the drain pipe. Pour boiling wmshing-soda water through it every other day, and do not forget to wash off the slime that adheres to the water pan. Fish, onions, cheese, any strong vegetables, lemons, or meat not per- fectly sweet, should not be kept in the same ice-box with milk or butter. Do not become wedded to the idea that dishes can only be washed in a sink. If your pantry or cookroom be some distance from your sink, and have a broad shelf or table in it, take your dishpan to the pantry, wash and wipe }'our dishes there, and in this way save a few of the unneces- sary steps which soon amount to miles with many weary housekeepers. Never wash a bread-board in an iron sink. The iron The Boston Cook Book. 445 will leave a black mark on the board, which it is difficult to remove. Wash the board on the table where you have used it ; use cold water, and scrub occasionally with sand soap. In scraping dough from the board, scrape with the grain of the wood, and hold the knife in a slanting direc- tion, to prevent roughening the surface of the board. Wash, and wipe dry, and never let dough accumulate in the cracks. Have one board for bread and pastry, and keep it smooth. Use a smaller board for rolling crumbs and pounding and cleaning meat and fish. A Dover ejjs-beater should never be left to soak in water, as the oil will be washed out of the gears and the beater be hard to turn ; or, if used again before it be diy, the oil and water will spatter into the beaten mixture. Use it with clean hands, and then the handle will require no w'ashing. Wipe the wires wdth a damp cloth immedi- ately after using, diy thorough^, and keep it well oiled. All dishes should be scraped before washing. A small wooden knife is best for this purpose. Bread and cake bowls, or an}'’ dishes in which flour or eggs have been used, are more easily cleaned if j^laced in cold water after using, or washed immediately. Clear up as }’ou work : it takes but a moment then, and saves much time and fatigue afterward. Never put pans and kettles half filled with water on the stove to soak. It onl}^ hardens whatever may have ad- hered to the kettle, and makes it much more difficult to clean. Keep them full of cold water, and soak them away from the heat. Kitchen knives and forks should never be placed in the dish water. Many err in thinking it is only the handles which should not be wet. The practice of putting the blades into a pitcher of very hot water is wrong, as the sudden expansion of the steel by the heat causes the han- dles to crack. Keep the knives out of the water, but wash thoroughly with the dishcloth, rub them with mineral soap or brick dust, and wipe them dry. Keep them bright, and sharpen often on a sandstone. The disadvantage and 446 The Boston Cook Book. vexation of (iull tools would be avoided if every woman would learn to use a whetstone, and where and when to apply a little oil. Milk will sour quickly if put into dishes which have not been scalded. They should first be washed in clear cold water, then in hot soapy water, then rinsed in clear boil- ing water, and wiped with a dry fresh towel. Do not for- get to scrape the seams and grooves of a double boiler. Ironware should be washed, outside as well as inside, in hot soapy water, rinsed in clean hot water, and wiped dr}*, not with the dishcloth, but with a dry towel. Dripping- pans, Scotch bowls, and other greasy dishes should be scraped, and wiped with soft paper, which will absorb the grease. The paper will be found useful in kindling the fire, and is a great saving of water, which is sometimes an object. A tablespoonful of soda added to the water will facilitate the cleaning. Kitchen mineral soap or pumice stone may be used freely on all dishes. It will remove the stains from white knife handles, the brown substance that adheres to earthen or tin baking-dishes, and the soot which collects on pans and kettles used over a wood or kerosene fire.' Tins should be washed in clean., hot soapy water. Rub them frequent!}" with mineral soap, and they may be kept as bright as when new. Saucepans and other tin or granite dishes browned by use may be cleaned by letting them remain . half an hour in boiling soda water, then rubbing with a wire dishcloth or stiff brush. A new tin coffee-pot, if never washed on the inside with soap, maybe kept much sweeter. Wash the outside, and rinse the inside thoroughly with clear water. Then put it on the stove to dry, and when dry rub the inside well with a clean, dry cloth. All the brown sediment may be wiped off in that way, but a soapy dishcloth should never be put inside. Keep a granite pan near the sink to use in washing veo-etables, and use the hand basin only for its legitimate purpose. Parc vegetables into the pan, and not into the The Boston Cook Book. 447 sink. A strainer or any old quart tin pan with small holes in the bottom is a great help in keeping a sink clean. Pour the coflfee and tea grounds, the dish water, and everything that is turned into the sink through the strainer first, and then empty the contents of the strainer into the refuse pail. Never use a ragged or linty dishcloth. The lint collects round the sink spout, and often causes a serious obstruc- tion. A dish mop is best for cups and cleanest dishes, but a strong linen cloth should be used for everj’thing which requires hard rubbing. Wash the sink thoroughly, flush the drainpipe often with hot suds or soda water, wipe diy , and rub with a greased cloth or with kerosene. Keep it greased if 3'ou wish to prevent its rusting. Cremation is the most satisfactory wa}" of disposing of kitchen refuse, both as a matter of convenience and for saiiitaiy reasons. But if there must be other disposition made of it, keep two pails and use them alternate!}’, cleansing each as soon as emptied. Wash dish towels in cold water, with plenty of soap, and rinse thoroughly in cold water, every time they are used. If left to diy without washing, they will be stick}^ to handle and have a disagreeable odor. If the dishes be well washed, rinsed, and drained, the dish towels will require no rubbing. It is easier to take care of three or four which have never been left to become grimy than to wash one after it is stained and saturated with grease. Towels used in this way may be kept sweet and clean without boiling or drying in the sun. This method has been proved b}’ years of trial. With a little care in observing these hints, and always using clean, hot soapy water (and not a liquid fit only for the swill cart) , changing it as soon as greas}’, dish-washing would be robbed of half its terrors. And after the work is done, il the hands be carefully washed with Castile soap, not with strong washing-soap, and wiped dry, no un- pleasant effect upon the skin will be felt. Some use a little vinegar to counteract the effect of the alkali in the soap. 448 The Boston Cook Book. A large apron made like a child’s tire, high in the neck, with long sleeves, and buttoned in the back, is the best pattern for a work apron. It protects the entire dress, and can be easily removed when one is called from the kitchen. Print or cambric with a white ground and small black figures wears better than colored print. New, white mosquito netting and cheese cloth are useful for draining lettuce and for putting around fish, chicken, or vegetables which require careful boiling ; also for bags for herbs and spices. Small squares of new cotton cloth are useful for wiping meat or fish. Keep them clean, and use for nothing else. Keep a good supply of small holders, large coarse towels to use about the oven, and fine crash towels for wiping dishes. Keep a damp towel on the table when cooking, for wiping the hands. Avoid the habit of work- ing with sticky or flouiy fingers, or using your apron for a hand towel or oven holder, or using the dish towels about the stove. These suggestions are given by one who has alwa}'s liked to wash dishes, and who thinks it not beneath the dignity of any woman to learn to do such work in the very best manner, and that no apolog}’ is needed for acknowledging a taste for this much-abused portion of domestic work. AN OUTLINE OF STUDY FOR TEACHERS. FOOD: ITS USES, CLASSIFICATION, AND PROPORTION. Webster defines food as “ anything that supports and nour- ishes life.” The kingdom of nature is divided into organic and inorganic bodies. Organic bodies have life; inorganic bodies are without life. Organic bodies are composed of several reciprocal parts, each of which is necessary to, and dependent upon, all the other parts. Organic bodies, therefore, include plants and animals, and inorganic bodies include earths, metals, and minerals. Organic bodies spring from some parent or immediate producing agent; they are supported by means of nourishment, and die without it; they increase in size by the addition of new particles of matter to all parts of their substances. Inorganic bodies are formed by some chemical law or union, and grow only by addition to their surfaces. Organic and inorganic bodies are continually wasting away or wearing out. Waste takrs place in all objects, animate and in- animate. The minutest change in position in any plant, ani- mal, or rock cannot be effected without some loss of substance. It has always been beyond the power of man to make anything that would not wear out. But there is this important distinction between organic and inorganic bodies. Only organic bodies can repair their waste, and add to their substance; they alone have life, or vital force. When anything wears out in a stone or a steam-engine, there is no power in the stone or the engine to replace the lost matter; and when a plant or an animal dies, the power of repairing waste is gone from it forever. Hence it is with animate bodies, or bodies endowed with life, that we have to do in considering the subject of food. 29 450 The Boston Cook Book. Life is that form of energy in creation that results in de- velopment from within the object. The energy may be purely physical, as in plants; or it may involve mental and moral considerations, as in animals. There are some essential distinctions between the various forms of organic life. Animals grow proportionally in all direc- tions, and, at a certain time of life, attain their average size. Plants grow upwards and downwards from a collet only, and continue to grow through a term of existence. Animals feed upon organic matter, consume oxygen from the air, and throw off carbonic acid; plants feed upon inorganic matter, consume carbonic acid, and restore oxygen to the air. Living plants or vegetables are, with few exceptions, fixed to the spot of earth from which they spring, and receive their nourishment from external sources. It is furnished them by the soil, air, light, and heat by which they are surrounded; and they are every moment receiving all that is necessary for their sustenance. If one of these essential conditions be withdrawn, death follows. Living animals have the power of locomniion, and, being obliged to wander, they are not always directly in contact with their sources of nourishment. They have, there- fore, a storehouse in which they lay up at intervals a supply of material. The possession of this stomach, or storehouse, characterizes all animal beings. The changes that occur in animal life are more rapid and variable than those in vegetable life. Not being, like vegeta- bles, always in connection with their food, animals need some monitor to warn them when to seek it. This is provided them in the appetite^ or the sensations of hwiger and thirst. There is also a pleasure in the regulated indulgence of these sensations, which never fails to injure attention to their demands. The vegetable kingdom is the original source of all organic matter. All our food is derived directly from the vegetable world, or indirectly through animals which have been nourished on vegetable products. The ox and sheep, which are consumed in the form of beef and mutton, have not fed on flesh, but on grass, hay, oats, and other grains. It is only under exposure to the sun’s rays that plants will grow. Hence to its influence we must refer the production of food in the first instance, and tlierefore the sustenance of all life. Life and growth in human beings are dependent upon two conditions, — motion and warmth. Motion. — Our bodies are constantly in motion. The heart The Boston Cook Book. 451 and lungs move with every breath. Every thought causes some change in the brain. Whenever any part of the body loses its power of motion, it dies. All this motion, whether voluntary or involuntary, results in the gradual wasting away of the flesh, blood, and bones of which the body is composed. “We begin to die as soon as we begin to live.” If the worn-out materials be not replaced, we die. One great object of food is to supply this waste. The demand for building material is greatest when the body is in a state of activity. Until the human body has attained its complete growth, there should be a constant supply of material for new growth, as well as for repair. In maturity, or when, from bodily inactivity, there is less waste, a smaller supply will suffice. Food taken at regular intervals supplies means of growth, and repairs the worn-out tissues. Warmth. — The temperature of the living human body is about 98°. In hot or cold climates, in summer or winter, though the temperature of the external parts may vary, the internal tempera- ture is the same; and if not maintained within a few degrees of this point, death invariably follows. The source of this animal heat, so independent of outside circumstances, must be from within. To keep up this internal heat or fire, a constant supply of fuel is necessary. This fuel is supplied by our food. To fur- nish material for growth and repair, and to provide fuel for the warmth of the body, is the twofold object of food. Animal Combustion. — The process by which food maintains the motion and warmth of the body is a kind of combustion, and has often been compared to the combustion carried on in the steam-engine (see Youinans’s Chemistry). We can have no combustion without oxygen; therefore oxygen is the first impor- tant element of food. The air is our great source of supply of oxygen, and a volume might be written on the necessity for pure air and perfect ventilation. We breathe oxygen from the air into our lungs, and exhale carbonic acid. Thei e must there- fore have been some internal union of carbon or hydrogen with oxygen, and such a union always produces heat. The carbon and hydrogen are obtained fiom our food, and are important elements. They are necessary for animal combustion. Food is taken in a natural or in a prepared state, and, after undergoing certain processes of digestion and assimilation, be- comes a part of our bodies for a time, and then is burned in the body, the process resembling somewhat the burning of wood and coal in our grates. But this union of carbon and oxygen, “in- stead of taking place in one spot and so rapidly as to be accom- 452 The Boston Cook Boole, panied by light, as in the case of the grate fire, takes place in each drop of the blood, and so slowly and continuously as not to be noticed.” The force and heat absorbed from the sun by the vegetable in growing, and stored in its starch and sugar, are set free, by the decomposition of the vegetable, into carbonic acid and water again. These are given out, partly as heat, keeping the body temperature at 98°; and partly in other forms, — in that of mechanical motion, etc. All the external or internal work of the body is done by the force and energy of the food which is burnt therein. The greater the amount of work to be done, the greater must be the supply of fuel. The fire is constantly burning. “The smoke passes out in exhalation, inhalation is the bellows to furnish more oxygen,” and food supplies the fuel. The kidneys are the grates through which the ashes are removed. But if we are “a house on fire,” why are we not consumed? Because, lest this internal fire burn too freely, the oxygen of the air is diluted with nitrogen, which is incombustible. The blood, bones, and muscles of the body are composed largely of nitro- gen, sixteen per cent of that element being present; and this prevents the complete burning up of the structure. “ What the iron is to the stove, the nitrogenous tissues are to the body.” But the stove wears out in time, and so our bodies are con- stantly wasting away; and these nitrogenous elements must be supplied by our food. Food, to accomplish its purpose fully, should consist of these four elements : oxjjcjen, to support combustion, — obtained from the air; enrio?? and hydrogen, io furnish fuel, — obtained from water and carbonaceous food ; nitrogen, to build up and repair the tissues of the body, — obtained from nitrogenous food. Food, in the form in which it is eaten, cannot sustain life. It must be converted into a fluid that can pass through very small channels into the blood. Then it must be mixed with the air, and undergo certain changes, before it can replace the worn- out elements of the body. To prepare food so that it can most readily be assimilated, that is, made like our bodies, should be the chief purpose in cooking, d'o do this, three things are e.ssential : 1st. The food selected should be of the right mate- rial, and properly proportioned; 2d. It should be cooked in the most digestible and attractive manner; 3d. It should be adapted to the various circumstances of age, occupation, climate, and state of health. Food, to be of the right material, should contain all the ele- The' Boston Cook Book. 453 meats that our bodies contain. It is of pi’irnary importance, tlien, in studying food, to understand first the composition of the human body. THE COMPOSITION OF THE HUMAN BODY. Our bodies are made up of different materials: skin, flesh, blood, bone, etc. These consist of a large number of substances, called compounds; the compounds contain two, three, or four elements, united chemically in definite proportion. Some of these compounds are: water , which forms more than two thirds of the whole body, and is the common carrier of food into and through the system; fibrlne, which is the chief solid material of flesh, and forms one tenth of the body; fat, a mixture of three compounds, distributed all through the system; albumen, and other nitrogenous substances, of which osseine in bones, keratin in the hair,' nails, and skin, cartilagin in cartilage, and hemo- globin, which contains iron and gives the red color to the blood, are the most important. Chlor 'ide of sodium, or common salt, and other mineral salts of pofassa, lime, and magnesia, are found in all parts of the body. These compounds are made up of two or more separate and distinct elements. There are sixteen elements in the human body, — oxygen, carbon, hydrogen, nitrogen, phosphorus, sulphur, chlorine, fluo- rine, silicon, calcium, potassium, sodium, magnesium, iron, manganese, and copper. Compounds only, not the separate ele- ments, are capable of nourishing the body. Oxygen only exists as an element. Its office is to support combustion. Combinations of two or more of these elements are found in the various articles used as food. It is quite important that our food should consist of various materials, containing elements similar to, or capable of being changed into, the elements of our bodies, of which the most important are: water, to help diges- tion and assimilation of food, and to help carry away refuse material; salts, to renew the mineral parts and replenish certain tissues; carbon, to furnish fuel for warmth; nitrogen, to build up and repair the whole structure. lor convenience the elements are classified chemically into Non- Combustibles, or inorganic compounds, including water and salts; Combustibles, or organic compounds, including carbona- ceous and nitrogenous foods. Some foods contain no carbon, some contain no nitrogen, and some have all the elements in.^ 454 The Boston Cook Book. various proportions. Food has been classified into gaseous, or air ; liquid, or water; and solid, including animal and vegetable foods. But the division into carbonaceous, or heat-producing, and nitrogenous, or flesh-forming foods, answers every purpose. NON-COMBUSTIBLE COMPOUNDS. Water and Salts. Water forms more than two thirds of the whole body. It is especially abundant in the blood and secretions. It gives them the necessary fluidity, and enables them to dissolve the important materials they contain. It is contained in all kinds of solid food, as well as in the liquids drunk as beverages. It is most abundant in fruits and vegetables. Every pound of perfectly dry food should be accompanied with four pounds of water. Pure water is composed of oxygen and hydrogen, one ninth hydrogen and eight ninths oxygen by weight. The usual test for pure drinking water is that it be “ free from color, smell, or taste, be soft, bright, and aerated, and free from all deposit.” But it is very seldom found in that condition, as its power of dissolving other substances is so great that it nearly always holds animal, vegetable, or mineral matters in solution, obtained from the earth through which it flows. It also absorbs gases and odors from the air. The animal and vegetable substances found in it render it impure. But the mineral matters, unless in excess, are not objectionable. When water contains more than a few grains to the gallon of carbonate of lime, it is termed hard water. AVhen water is hard or impure, it should be boiled before being used for drinking, as this destroys the vegetable and animal impurities. Water evaporates at all temperatures, boils at 212°, and freezes at 32° Fahrenheit. In freezing, the substances dissolved in water are expelled. Water, as it approaches the freezing-point, expands, and often bursts the vessels in which it is contained. In ponds or rivers it expands, becomes lighter, freezes, and floats on the surface in the form of ice. Water is perfectly neutral. It combines with acids and witli bases. It becomes sweet, sour, salt, astringent, bitter, or poison- ous, according to the nature of the bodies it holds in solution. The Boston Cook Book. 455 # Salts and other Mineral Matters. — The chief purpose of min- eral iugredients is to replenish certain tissues, and aid in the transferrence and absorption of the combustible nutrients, as a scalfolding aids in the construction of a building. Chloride of sodium, or common salt, is essential to the life of the higher animals. It exists in all parts of the body. It is more abundant in the blood than any other inorganic ingredient except water; but it is an active poisonous irritant if taken in excess, causing diseases of the mucous membranes, as in catarrh, and stiffening of the muscles, as in rheumatism. We take it as a natural ingredient in many kinds of food, and as a condiment to increase the relish of many others. The desire for salt is instinctive. There are people who do not use salt in food, but it is probable that they obtain sufficient sodium and chlorine in the brackish water they drink; or it may be, their habits of life render less salt necessary. Salt must be added plentifully to all vegetable food. The bad effects of a salt-meat diet can be counteracted by the use of lemon juice and fresh green vegetables, which are rich in potash salts. Salt taken with our food supplies two substances. Its chlo- rine supplies the hydrochloric acid of the gastric juice, that helps digest our food; and soda, which is an element of the bile, — a fluid which must be added to the dissolved or softened food before the nourishment can be extracted from it. People would very soon become ill if deprived of salt. A person requires from one fourth to half an ounce of salt daily. The attractive flavor which is developed by cooking and adding salt to our food excites the secretion of saliva and gastric juice, and therefore helps digestion. The Dutch used to condemn criminals to a diet of unsalted food. They suffered great physical torture, which soon ended in death. Salt is one of the most abundant of all minerals. It is ob- tained from springs by evaporation, and from natural mines. It is readily soluble in hot or cold water. It is used for packing and preserving meats, as it prevents putrefaction by absorbing water from the flesh. The other mineral ingredients needed in the system are com- binations of lime. soda, potash, magnesia, sulphur, phosphorus, and iron. Phosphorus, lime, and magnesia are found in meat, fish, the cereals, and potatoes. Potash is found in meat, fish, milk, vegetables, and the dry seeds and fleshy parts of fruits, iron, in flesh, vegetables, and nearly all food, in very minute quantities. 456 The Boston, Cook Book. . Salphur is in fibrine, albumen, and caseine. There is sufficient saline matter, except common salt, in all the ordinary food we eat and the water we drink. These mineral matters become rearranged and combined before becoming part of the body, but they do not undergo any chemical change or decomposition. They are absorbed with the food, and form for a time part of the animal tissues, aftei- which they are discharged with the secretions, and replaced by a fresh supply. They are absolutely indispensable to the neur* ishment of the body. COMBUSTIBLE COMPOUNDS. CARBONACEOUS FOODS. The first division of combustible compounds is called carbon- aceous because they all contain carbon; or heat-producing, be- cause by their burning they generate heat. They consist of starch, sugar, fats and oils, gum, and the softer fibres of plants. They are found in vegetables, cereals, fruits, milk, eggs, and the fat of meat. Starch. Starch is one of the most important of vegetable foods; it is found in grains, seeds, and roots, and in the pith and bark of plants. When pure, it is a snow-white, glistening powder. It consists of exceedingly minute grains, varying in size and shape in the different kinds of starch. These grains are cov- ered with an outer skin w'hich is insoluble and unchanged by cold water; but in boiling, this membrane bursts and the inte- rior of each grain dissolves in the water, forming a thick, gummy solution. When cool, it stiffens into a kind of pasty mass. Starchy food is very unwholesome unless properly cooked. It must be mixed with a sufficient amount of liquid, and sul>- jected to a great degree of heat, that the grains may sw'ell and burst. This liquid is sometimes supplied by the boiling water in which certain starcliy foods are cooked; and sometimes by fat which melts with the heat, as in pastry, or by boiling fat, as in anything fried. Wlien flour or starchy food is mixed w'ith fat, it should be finely and evenly mixed, that the fat may penetrate The Boston Cook Book. 457 every part of the flour, or else it will cake, and all the grains will not burst. Anything that helps to make pastry lighter and the fat more evenly distributed, causes the starch grains to burst equally, and makes such food more wholesome. Vegetables should be put into boiling water to burst the starch cells, and set free the confined air, of which there is a great deal in many kinds. They should be taken up as soon as they are soft, as they absorb water after the grains are fully burst. Starch in its uncooked, insoluble state is not digested by the human stomach. Seeds and fruits which consist of starch, especially if it be combined with oil, as in many nuts, if eaten uncooked,' are very difficult to digest. All starchy articles of food should be masticated thoroughly, and mixed with the saliva. It is more necessary to chew bread and potatoes well than meat. Starch is changed by various means into sugar. If an acid be added to it in a watery solu- tion, and boiled, it becomes clear and transparent, and after a time all the starch disappears, and sugar takes its place. The same change is caused by the saliva, and during digestion the starch is all changed into sugar, so that none of it is found in the fluids and secretions of the body. This is easily seen by chewing pure starch; after a while it will become sweet. Starch contains no albuminous substances, and therefore cannot supply any of the materials of which our bodies are formed. But it is the source of the warmth of our bodies, and the strength we exert. Taken alone, it would be useless as an article of food. It must have the addition of albuminoid and fatty substances, like milk or meat. Starch is prepared by grinding some vegetable matter that contains it in abundance, and mixing it with cold water. The water is strained and allowed to stand; the starch settles at the bottom, and is then dried and powdered. Cornstarch is ob- tained from Indian corn, by a chemical process. The gluti- nous, oily elements are freed from the seed by alkaline solutions, and the starchy parts are ground and dried. Sago is starch from the pith of a species of palm-tree. Tapioca is from the root of a species of the cassava plant of South America. It is a coarsely granulated substance. Cassava, or mandioc, is a more finely granulated form of the same root. Arrowroot is from the rhizorna, or rootstalk, of a West Indian plant. The natives use the roots of a species of the plant in extracting the poison of arrows; hence the name. 458 The Boston Cook Book. Sugar. Sugar is composed of oxygen, hydrogen, and carbon. There are three kinds, — cane sugar, or sucrose; grape sugar, or glu- cose; milk sugar, or lactose. Cane sugar as an article of food closely resembles starch, but it is soluble and therefore more easily digested. It is readily distinguished by its sweet taste. It is found in many animal juices and also in fruits, but exists mainly in vegetable juices which have little or no acid in their sap, like sugar cane, rock maple, and beet-root. In its natural state it is dissolved in the vegetable fluids, mingled with many other substances. It is obtained by crushing the raw material ; the fluids thus obtained are heated with a solution of lime, which causes the impurities to separate and rise in scum. These are removed, and the purified juice boiled down until it solidifies as a brownish de- posit. This brown sugar is again dissolved, boiled, and filtered through charcoal, evaporated, and crystallized. Molasses is the drainage of the raw sugar. Brown sugar is the first product. Granulated sugar is brown sugar refined and re-crystallized. All brown and moist sugars are inferior in quality; they contain water and mineral matter, and are sometimes infested by a minute insect. Loaf sugar is the purest. Sucrose, or cane sugar, is changed, by the acids of the gastric juice and the nitrogenous matter of the food, into grape sugai, or glucose. One of the most remarkable piopeities of sugai is that it can be decomposed and converted into other substances by fermentation. In its chemical relations sugar ranks with acids, and combines with bases, as in sugar of lead. It melts at 320°, and by cooling forms a transparent amber-colored solid known as barley sugar. If heated to 420°, it forms a brown mass, called caramel. Sugar has great preservative po^^ers, and is used in preserving fruits, hams, bacon, etc. Glucose, or grape sugar, is abundantly distributed throughout the vegetable kingdom. It is found in honey, figs, grapes, and other fruits which have acid juices. It is less sweet than cane sugar, and is immediately absorbed into the circulation when taken into the stomach. It is less soluble and less easily crystallized than sucrose. Lactose, or milk sugar, is obtained only from the milk of mam- malia. It has the composition of cane sugar, and is converted into grape sugar when taken as food. The Boston Cook Book. 459 Fats. Fats, or oleaginous substances, are composed of carbon, hydro- gen, and oxygen, — the two former elements preponderating, — and, having a very strong affinity for oxygen, are highly combustible. Fats are solid; oils are liquid. Fats may be changed to oil by a slisrht accession of heat, and are obtained from both animal and vegetable tissues, — suet and dripping, from beef fat; lard, from the fat of pigs; butter, from the cream of milk; olive oil, from the fleshy pulp of the fruit of the olive tree. Oil is also found in nuts, seeds, cereals, and fruits. Croton oil, used for medicinal purposes, is from a plant, a native of India; cod liver oil, from the liver of cod fish ; castor oil, from the seeds of the castor-oil plant. Fats and oils contain three different oleaginous substances, known as stearine, margarine, and oleine. Oleine is that portion of oil that causes its fluidity. It is more abundant in oils than fats, and in the fat of swine than in the harder fat of sheep or beef. Lard is better than mutton fat or suet for frying, because, having more oleine, it can be converted into a liquid sooner. Margarine is harder than oleine. It exists in human fat, in but- ter, and olive oil. Stearine is the most solid substance of the three, and is most abundant in tallow and suet. The peculiar odor some fats and oils possess is from the pres- ence of an acid. In butter it is butyric acid. Glycerine is the base common to all the fats. In stearine, the hardest fat, it unites with stearic acid; in margarine, a less solid form, with margaric acid; in oleine, or oil, with oleic acid. “ Fat forms the chief material of adipose tissue. It serves to fill spaces and give rotundity and beauty to the form, to equalize external pressure, to diminish the friction of the parts, to give suppleness to the tissues, and, being a non-conductor of heat, to keep the body warm. An undue accumulation of fat is a species of disease.” Oils and fats will not mix with water; but if an alkaline sub- stance, like potash or soda, be added, the oil becomes separated into fine particles, and is held suspended in the watery fluid. This is called an emulsion, and this is what takes place in intes- tinal digestion. The gastric juice, being acid, does not digest fat, but only separates it from these substances, that it may digest the albuminous portions with which it is mingled. But 460 The Boston Cook Book. the pancreatic fluid, being alkaline, resolves the fat into an emulsion. This completes the digestion, then the fats are ab- sorbed and received into the general circulation. Having a strong affinity for oxygen, these fatty particles in the venous blood, when they come in contact with the oxygen of the air, burn, and beat is evolved. The power of fat in maintaining heat and activity is two and a half times that of starch. Oils which are used as food are fixed oils. Volatile oils are found in many condiments and perfumes. Volatile oils can be distilled, or changed to vapor, and recondensed into their origi- nal form; they leave no permanent stain on paper. Fixed or greasy oils cannot be distilled; before changing to vapor they recombine into new compounds. Gum, Mucilage, Pectose, and Cellulose. These are combustible compounds, but are neither starchy, saccharine, nor oily. Gum is found in apple and plum trees. Gum arable is from a species of acacia, and is soluble. Muci- lage is found in onions, quinces, and flaxseed. It forms a jelly witfh water, but does not dissolve like gum arabic. Pectose is found in many roots, like the tui-nip; also in the pear and peach. When boiled with water it changes to a vegetable jelly, called pectine. Currants, pears, peaches, plums, contain pectine, and this is what gives firmness to the preserves made from them. Cellulose is the woody fibre of stalks of grain, the membrane which envelops the grains, husks, and skin of seeds, rinds, cores, and stones of fruits. It is the main and almost the sole constituent of linen, and of the paper which is made from linen. NITROGENOUS FOODS. The second division of the Combustible Compounds is called nitrogenous, or fiesh-forming foods. Nitrogen is the flesh-form- ing element common to all foods. It enters largely into the composition of the body, forming sixteen per cent of the animal tissue. A liberal supply is necessary to form and repair tissue. Although the atmosphere is four fifths nitro- gen, we get no supply from that source. It must be sup- plied in a state of combination, not as an element, from such compounds as have been produced under the influence of life. We require organic nitrogenous matter, and not pure nitrogen. This is sometimes derived from vegetable sources, but is most The Boston Cook Book. 461 abundant in animal substances. Animal food is richer and more nutritious than vegetable food; but the latter, if taken in large quantities, yields the same amount of flesh-forming mate- l ial. Nitrogenous substances in plants and animals are identical in composition; and, from whichever source they are taken, the most important consideration is, to digest them and make them into blood. Nitrogen is an essential part of some of our most powerful medicines, like quinine and morphine, and of our most dangerous poisons, such as strychnine and prussic acid. Nitrogenous foods are also called albuminous, because albumen is their common element, though it is called by different names in different things. Albumen is from albus, meaning white. The principal varieties of albuminous food are lean meat, fish, eggs, milk, cheese, peas, beans, oatmeal, flour, rye, and corn. These are treated moi-e fully in other parts of the book, in chapters on Bread, Meats, Fish, Eggs, Milk, and Vegetables. The albuminous portion of meat is the juice, or albumen, and the fibre, or fibrine. In eggs it is the white. In milk it is the caseine, or the curdy part that separates when milk has soured. In peas and beans it is called vegetable caseine. In flour it is gluten, — the sticky, glutinous substance which is left after squeezing or w’ashing out the starch. Albumen exists in two states, — one soluble in water and one insoluble. The soluble may be changed to insoluble by heating to 120°, or by adding nitric acid. It is the most easily digested of all flesh-forming foods. Albuminous substances have the property of coagulation; but all albuminoids do not coagulate in the same w'ay. The albumen of eggs and the juices of meat coagulate by heating to the boiling- point. The fibrine of the blood coagulates when exposed to the air. Milk coagulates by the addition of an acid. Albuminous substances also have the propeity of fermentation. This occurs principally in substances which are rich in sugar, starch, and gluten, like flour, milk, etc. The fermentation in flour and milk is explained in the chapter on Bread-Making. Fermentation w-ill not take place without air or moisture, and a moderate degree of heat. Therefore, if albuminous substances be excluded from air and moisture, and kept very hot or very cold, they will not ferment. Fermentation is a change in the elements of a body composed of oxygen, carbon, and hydrogen. Sugar is composed of carbon, oxygen, and hydrogen in equal parts; when sugar ferments, it decomposes and then reunites in 462 The Boston Cook Book. different proportions, forming different compounds, — alcohol, carbonic acid, and water. Albuminous substances are the only substances which putrefy. Putrefaction resembles fermentation, and is due to the presence, in large proportion, of the fickle element, nitrogen, and also to the large number of elements combined in all albuminous sub- stances. Complicated machinery is always more easily deranged than simple; and in all chemical combinations, the more com- plex they are, the more unstable. Nitrogen has a very w'eak affinity for other elements, and forms very unstable compounds. All substances rich in nitrogen, when exposed to the air, soon pass into a state of decomposition, or putrefaction. The oxygen of the air has a greater affinity than the nitrogen for the other elements, and unites with them very easily. In putrefaction the oxygen unites with the carbon to form carbonic acid, and with the hydrogen to form water. The hydrogen and nitrogen unite and form ammonia, and this occasions the peculiar, unpleasant odor of all putrefying bodies. In sub- stances rich in sulphur and phosphorus, the hydrogen unites with them and forms sulphuretted and phosphoretted gases which are very offensive. Therefore, if we exclude the air or oxygen from such substances, we can arrest decomposition. This is done by keeping them in air-tight vessels, thus remov- ing the oxygen from the outside; and by boiling or drying, to remove that which is diffused w'ithin. Freezing will have the same effect; also salting or preserving. The salt draws out the moisture, hardens the albumen, and prevents the access of oxygen. In preserving, by the use of a strong solution of sugar, the watery juices are drawn out and formed into a thick syrup which excludes the air. There are some albuminous substances, such as isinglass and gelatine, which are taken as food ; but, strictly speaking, they are not flesh-formers. Isinglass is obtained from the sound, or swimming bladder, of the sturgeon, and is imported from Russia. It is not actually gelatine, but is transformed into it by boiling water. Gelatine is obtained from bones. Ossein is that part of the bones to which their strength and elasticity are due. It is insoluble in cold water, but is slowly dissolved and changed into gelatine by being boiled gently under a pressure sufficient to prevent the escape of steam. Gelatine is also ob- tained from tendons, calves’ feet, fish scales, stag’s horns, etc. There are other varieties of nitrogenous food which are also carbonaceous. These are commonly included under the general The Boston Cook Book. 463 term Becerages ; namely, tea, coffee, cocoa, and chocolate. The nitrogenous principle of tea is theine; of coffee, caffeine; and of chocolate, theobi'omine. Tea also contains iron and manganese. Drinks, Beverages, and Liquid Foods are classified as follows : water, including rain, well, and mineral spring water; mucilagi- nous, farinaceous, or saccharine drinks, including toast water, Irish moss, and barley water, sago, tapioca, arrow'root, and other gruels; aromatic or astringent drinks, including, tea, coffee, choco- late, cocoa, and herb teas; acidulous drinks, including lemonade, raspberry vinegar, and other fruit syrups; animal broths, or drinks containing gelatine, including soups, broths, and beef tea; emul- sive drinks, including milk ; alcoholic and intoxicating drinks, including wines, cider, beer, ale, porter, brandy, and whiskey. Water is discussed under Non-Combustible Foods. Receipts for mucilaginous and acidulous drinks, animal broths, and herb teas are given in the chapter on Cookery for the Sick. The aromatic drinks are included in a separate article under the head of Beverages. Alcoholic drinks will not be discussed for want of space. Milk is food as well as drink, and deserves especial consideration. Milk. Milk consists of three distinct substances, which separate from one another after standing awhile, — the cream, curd, and whey. The cream is the carbonaceous part, and forms ten or twelve per cent of the whole.. It consists of very small globules of fat, or butter, invisible to the naked eye, surrounded by a fine mem- brane of caseine or albuminous matter. These are dispersed in the milk at first; but as they are lighter than the other parts, they rise to the top of the milk in the form of cream. When the cream is churned, the membrane of each globule is ruptured, causing the butter to cohere in a separate mass. If all this caseine, or albuminous matter, be not removed, the butter soon becomes rancid. The butter has more margarine than oleine, and is therefore hard and firm instead of fluid. It contains butyric acid, which gives it its peculiar flavor. The curd is the albuminous part of the milk, which separates in a solid form whenever milk sours or curdles. This separa- tion is occasioned by the action of the oxygen in the air upon the nitrogen in the caseine, causing a portion of the caseine to ferment. This ferment acts upon the sugar of the milk, and converts it into lactic acid; and this acid acts as any other acid 464 The Boston Cook Book. would, and causes the sourness of the milk. The caseine is in- soluble in water, but in the milk it is combined with soda, and this compound is soluble. So, when the milk sours, and a suffi- cient quantity of acid is formed, it seizes upon the soda, takes it away from the caseine, and forms lactate of soda. The caseine, being thus set free, shrinks, and gathers into an insoluble curdy mass. This separation is spontaneous; but it is often caused artificially, by the use of an acid, — usually rennet, M hich is the lining membrane of a calf’s stomach. The curd thus separated is pressed and prepared in various forms of cheese. It contains the nutritious elements of the milk in a condensed, but somewhat indigestible form. Cheese is more digestible when made from fresh than from skimmed milk. The whey is the water of the milk that separates from the curd in souring, and contains dissolved in it the sugar of milk and the saline and mineral ingredients. It is much better to use milk in its natural state, than to use the butter or cheese obtained from it. It is the cheapest form in which animal food can be obtained, and should be used freely, especially by the young or weak. Condensed milk, when well prepared, is convenient and valu- able as an article of diet, if fresh milk cannot be obtained. It can only be made from pure milk, and is therefore perfectly harmless. CONDIMENTS. There is another class of foods, called condiments, which should not pass unnoticed. Food that “ tastes good ” is digested more readily, and assimi- lated more perfectly, so that we really derive more nourishment from it. We use many articles with our food to make it taste better, which are not in themselves valuable as food. But by stimulating the flow of saliva and gastric juice, and enhancing the fine flavor of food, they increase the pleasure of eating, and render digestion more complete. These are called condiments. They are not necessary to persons of sound digestion, and, with the exception of salt, should not be used by children, nor by any one in large quantities. In perfect digestion there is the first taste in the mouth and the after-taste of the digestive organs which require satisfaction. “ Any cook may gratify the tiist, but the second requires a skilled chemist.” The Boston Cook Book. 465 The principal condiments are salt, pepper, mustard, and some herbs, including mint, thyme, parsley, sage, marjoram, summer sffrory, and bay leaves; spices, including ginger, nutmeg, cinna- mon, clove, mace, and allspice; and flavorings or extracts of lemon, vanilla, orange, almond, pineapple, etc. Salt is the only condiment actually necessary to health (see page 455). Pepper is a stimulant when taken in small quantities, but irri* tating if taken in excess. It is the dried berry of a climbing plant of the piper family. The whole peppers are called pepper- corns. These peppercorns are ground, and we have black pepper. The outer shells are sometimes removed before grinding, and these kernels ground give us white pepper, which has a different flavor and is less pungent than black pepper. Red or Cayenne pepper consists of seod-vessels or pods of different species of capsicum ground to powder. It is stimulating, and far more wholesome than the black pepper, though not as much used. It is valuable as a medicine. Mustard is used as a condiment and medicine. It is made from seeds of black and white mustard, which are crushed be- tween rollers, and then pounded in mortars. In small quantities it is good for digestion. Both red pepper and mustard, if used sparingly with indigestible food, like lobster and baked beans, are very useful. The herbs are used dried or green, and when used judiciously, make meats, soups, and sauces more palatable. Spices are used in cakes and articles of food containing sugar, and sometimes with meats. They are used whole, ground, and in the extract. Ginger is the most healthful, and is often used in sickness. It is a valuable stimulating tonic in hot weather. The other spices are better when mixed in small quantities, less of clove and more of cinnamon being used. When combined so that no one spice predominates, they are pleasant to the taste. Care should be taken lest they hide the natural flavor of the food. Flavors are all good in small quantities. Almond, vanilla, lemon, and pineapple are often adulterated. They should never be added while the article is hot, as the heat wastes the strength of the flavor. Vanilla beans are better than the extract. It is always well, if possible, to use the fresh fruit juice. Lemon juice and vinegar, used in moderation, increase the sol- vent properties of the gastric juice, and are useful with meats and vegetables which are difficult of digestion. 30 466 The Boston Cook Book. PROPER PROPORTION OF FOOD. These different kinds of food, tmter, sails, sugar, starch, fat, and albumen, must be combined in our diet; for a simple sub- stance which fulfils only one of the purposes i-equired in our food will not support life. A man cannot live on water or salt, yet he would soon die without them. A diet composed exclu- sively of fats, starch, or sugar is equally incapable of supporting life. The albuminous foods, though they are considered the most nutritious, must be combined with the others to produce the desired result. Milk is the only substance prepared by nature expressly as an article of food. Seeds grow, and produce plants and fruits after their kind; but milk is prepared as the natural food of the young of all mammalia. A baby fed on milk develops in every part; therefore milk must supply every requisite for the growth of the young body, and the proportions in woman’s milk may be taken as the standard for human food. Milk analyzed is found to contain water, salt, fat, sugar, and caseine, — the five ele- ments of food. It has enough of flesh -producing elements to restore the daily waste, and enough heat-giving elements to feed the oxygen in breathing. But when the teeth are formed, the child’s system needs a greater proportion of some elements than are supplied by the milk, and other foods are gradually added to the diet. Eggs also contain all the necessary elements: a diet of seven eggs per day furnishes all the nutrition a person needs. But the elements in eggs are too highly condensed, and are not properly proportioned for a continuous diet. Many articles of food do not contain all these elements, and it is very important to proportion our food rightly, so that one kind will supply what another lacks. A certain bulk is also necessary in our food to stimulate a thorough action of the diges- tive fluids. If the quantity be not sufficient to distend the stomach, so that the churning motion of the muscular coats can affect evei-y part of the food, the digestion is imperfect. Dys- pepsia is often caused by lack of sufficient quantity of food, and by weakness of the muscles of the stomach. If this requisite quantity be wholly nutritious or highly condensed food, capable of entire absorption, the effect is too stimulating, and serious disorders of the alimentary canal are the result. To remedy this, it is necessary to have a certain amount of iunutritious The Boston Cook Book. 467 food, which furnishes the bulk required, and gives all parts of the digestive apparatus their proper amount of work to perform. Many persons argue in favor of a vegetable diet, as we can obtain from vegetables all the necessary elements. There have been many cases known where people lived to an extreme age who used exclusively a vegetable diet, and others who lived equally as long upon animal food. But the general rule is, that we find the highest degree of bodily and mental vigor only among those who make use of a mixed diet. One of the strong- est physiological arguments in favor of this rule is found in the structure and conformation of the teeth and alimentary canal. Part of the teeth are of the carnivorous, or flesh-eating kind, and part of the herbivorous, or vegetable-eating kind. The alimentary canal is equally well adapted to the digestion of ani- mal or vegetable food, or an admixture of both. The proper proportion, by weight, is one third of animal, and two thirds of vegetable food. “ Nature has given us an unerring guide to a proper choice of diet. An un perverted appetite is the voice of the physical sys- tem making known its needs, and it may always be trusted to indicate the food necessary to the preservation of health. But as the voice of nature is often unheeded, it is necessary to exer- cise intelligence in selecting our food and adapting it to the circumstances of life. By a proper choice we can often coun- teract the effects of a violation of nature’s laws.” ADAPTATION OF FOOD TO CLIMATE, AGE, OCCU- PATION, AND STATE OF HEALTH. In examining the foods adopted by different nations and classes of people, we find that many choose instinctively the kind best adapted to their individual needs. The climate, occu- pation, and water influence their choice. Climate. — Animal food is better for cold than for hot cli- mates. We breathe more rapidly, take in more oxygen in cold weather, and the internal fire burns up more of the food. We exercise more, and this causes more rapid wearing out of muscle and flesh. Fat meat is not digested easily unless exercise be taken freely; more oxygen must be mixed with it to produce heat than is required for sugar and starch. In summer, when we exercise less, the waste is less, and we need less warmth- 468 The Boston Cook Book. giving food. The starch and sugar obtained from fruits and vegetables are easily digested, and furnish sufficient warmth. The Esquimaux or Greenlander consumes a large quantity of fat^ or blubber oil, the most condensed form of carbonaceous food. This gives him the amount of heat necessary in an ex- tremely cold climate. With this blubber he mixes some indi- gestible substances to give the needed bulk for the perfect action of the stomach. The people of Norway, Sweden, and Russia use large quantities of oily Jish. In China, India, and other extremely hot climates, rice is the universal food. Rice contains a very small amount of flesh-forming material, being mostly starch, which is changed into sugar by the action of the saliva. The natives of rice-eating countries owe much of their lack of spirit and energy to this defective diet. But when eaten with butter or olive oil, and made into curries, pilaf, and pilau, with a small amount of flesh or fish, it supplies all the elements necessary for life in such climates. The Spaniard in his olla podrida — a stew of peas, bacon, or fowl, with red pepper — finds all the necessary elements. The red pepper, used so largely in the curries and other dishes common to hot climates, stimulates the liver, which is naturally w^eakened by the long-continued heat, and thus assists digestion. The Arab chooses dates, parched grains, mare’s or camel’s milk. The Turk adds to these melons and cucumbers. As we come northward again, we find more flesh-forming material in the polenta (a dish made of Indian corn) and the chestnuts, macaroni, and cheese used by the Italians. T^\\& 2^ot-au-feu is the principal dish of every peasant in France. This furnishes the cheapest form of nutriment, and contains all the necessary elements of food. The loaters of a country sometimes determine the national food. In Ireland, where the waters are strongly impregnated with lime, they furnish what the potato, which is richer in pot- ash and soda, lacks. When potatoes are combined with cabbage and pork, as in kolcannon, the flesh-forming element is supplied; and this, on account of the cost of meat, the laboring classes are unable to obtain in any other form. In England and Scotland, where the waters are soft, oats and wheat, which are rich in phosphates, are the staple diet. AVhen combined with milk, eggs, rice, peas, beans, bacon, and cheese, their food is complete. To satisfy the natural instinct to obtain these five elements, we all prefer our bread with butter or cream, our meat with potatoes, our lice with butter, milk, or eggs; our fish we cook iu fat; we eat liver with bacon and ham, or bacon with eggs; The Boston Cook Book. 469 we eat cheese with crackers, butter with cauliflower or cabbage, salt with all vegetables, oil with salad, and fresh vegetables with salt meat. Fruits and foods intended to be eaten raw contain a large proportion of water. This is supplied, when lessened by evaporation, by cooking and soaking in water. In cooking meats, we endeavor to retain all the juices, which are largely water. In spring we crave fresh green vegetables and salads, that we may have the potaah salts of which there has been a deficiency in the winter diet. Occupation affects our choice of diet. Persons engaged in sed- entary occupations cannot digest as much nor as easily as those who labor out of doors. They should have food that gives the greatest amount of nourishment in the smallest compass, and it should be served in the most digestible form. Those w'ho tax their brains severely should have animal food and the most digestible forms of starchy and warmth-giving foods. Those who exercise freely in the open air may take a larger quantity, and it need not be the most digestible, as they require food that will stay by them. The laborer instinctively prefers potatoes underdone, or “with a bone in them;” and he chooses salt meat, not only because it is cheaper, but because it stands by him longer. The salt causes him to drink water freely, and this supplies the w^aste caused by excessive perspiration. A diet of vegetables, peas, beans, cheese, oatmeal, bacon, and the cheaper, more indigestible parts of meat properly cooked, is suitable for laboring people. State of Health. — In selecting food wdth reference to health it must be remembered that there are certain general rules which have been established by the best authorities through many ages and in a great variety of circumstances; there are, however, some exceptions to these general rules. Milk is considered a w'holesome food, yet there are some persons who cannot take it. Cheese is a cheap and nourishing food for laboring people, but there are some persons to whom it is an active poison. This is also true of oysters and strawberries. These exceptions are owing to some idiosyncrasy of the palate or weakness of the digestive organs, and should be regarded only as exceptions, which do not affect the general principle. The application of these general principles, given throughout this book in connection with the various articles used as food, must be left to each individual; but to those who have given the subject no serious study a few hints may be helpful. They will be found in the article treating of Cooking for the Invalid. The Boston Cook Book, 470 NOURISHING AND STIMULATING FOOD. There is another classification of food which it is well to con- sider briefly. In its eifect upon the system food is nourishing and stimulating, or the reverse. Nourishing foods are those which serve to develop perfectly every animal function, but do not increase the strength and speed of organic action beyond the point of full nutrition. Bread, vegetables, fruits, sugar, salt, and water are nourishing foods. Nourishing and Stimulating Food. — All food that nourishes the body is in one sense stimulating, as it gives renewed energy to the bodily functions. But there are foods which impart a speed and energy to the organs above that necessary to per- fect nutrition; these are termed stimulating foods. Animal food is of this class. Stimulants. — Alcoholic drinks and condiments are classed as stimulants, because they impart no nourishment, but act simply as excitants to preternatural activity. Innutritions foods are those which are not assimilated ; which are by nature indigestible, or have been made so by improper combinations and modes of cooking. The bran of wheat, fried or greasy food, heavy bread, and rich soggy pastry are either entirely unassimilated, and therefore not nourishing, or they weaken the system by exciting particular organs to excessive action. The Boston Cook Book, 471 DIGESTION. In studying digestion, it is well to keep in mind the twofold division of food into nitrogenous, or flesh-forming, and carbona- ceous, or heat-producing, elements. The process of digestion differs with the character of the food. The purpose of diges- tion is to change and combine all the elements of food into a fluid which will mingle with the blood, become assimilated, and furnish nutriment for the body. Digestion is not confined to the stomach. It begins with in- salivation in the mouth, and, after deglutition, is carried on in the stomach and intestines, the process continuing through the entire length of the alimentary canal, — a tube varying in diameter, and thirty-six feet in length. The first process in digestion, as in any chemical analysis, is to crush the materials. The teeth are the grinders for reducing the food. If we bolt our food or swallow it in lumps, the soft coats of the stomach are made to do the tearing and grinding work of the teeth. A solvent being necessary, the saliva is secreted from the blood, and is poured through three pairs of glands into the mouth, each pair supplying a different saliva. This softens the starch and tender cellulose. Animals, like the beaver, which feed chiefly on woody matters, have very large salivary glands. In health the saliva is always alkaline, especially during and after meals. It lubricates the mouth, and moistens the food so that it may assume a pasty condition. It is also necessary to the sense of taste, everything being tasteless that the saliva can- not dissolve. For this reason we cook and season our food so that it will excite the flow of the saliva. “ This saliva is poured into the mouth not to he cast out, but to do a specific work, then pass into the stomach and be again ab- sorbed. If the system be drained of the saliva by profuse spit- ting, as is the case with those who use tobacco freely, the order of bodily functions is reversed, and the mouth is made to do the work of the kidneys, which is to carry away a large amount of the superfluous water and all the waste salts.” 472 The Boston Cook Book. The saliva consists mostly of water, with a very small amount of saline matter and about five parts in one thousand of piyalin, an albuminous ingredient, or ferment, which has the power of con- verting the starchy portions of food into sugar, and sugar into lactic acid, but does not act upon nitrogenous food. The saliva froths easily, and aids in carrying air into the stomach. This is tlie first step in digestion, and the most important, as any error in the beginning leads to evil consequences which affect the whole process. It is also important, because it is wholly a voluntary process. While the food is in the mouth, we may masticate it thoroughly or imperfectly, and swallow or reject it. But when deglutition has carried it into the stomach, it is wholly beyond our control, and we are not responsible for the remainder of the process, only so far as it may be affected by error in the first stages. Bread, potatoes, and all starchy foods should be thoroughly masticated, and mingled with the saliva. Meat may be swallowed hastily, or knives may be made to do the work of the teeth in masticating animal food; but no chemist can prepare an artificial saliva to be mixed with starchy food, to save the trouble of chewing it. If a piece of dry light bread be masticated thoroughly, it will crumble and be quickly mixed with the saliva, and become sweeter the longer it is kept in the mouth. The alkaline saliva changes the starch into sugar, and begins the digestion. Try to chew' a piece of hot bread and it at once assumes a pasty condition, which neither teeth nor saliva can penetrate, and is swallowed involuntarily. A piece of putty would not be more indigestible. If this experiment be tried, no other argument would be needed against the use of hot bread. The stomach carries on the second part of digestion. The presence of food excites the flow of a fluid called the gastric juice, which is secreted in large quantities in the mucous mem- brane of the stomach. At the same time the muscular coats of the stomach contract, and produce a sort of churning motion, which carries the food round and round and over and over, ex- posing all parts of it to the action of the fluid. This gastric juice is always decidedly acid in its nature, containing hydro- chloric acid. The lactic acid formed from the sugar in the mouth is also present in the stomach. This acid arrests the work begun in the mouth on the starchy foods, renders the alkali neutral, and acts only on albuminous food. It contains an albuminous ingredient, or ferment, called pepsin, in about the same proportion as the ptyaliu of the saliva. The pepsin The Boston Cook Book. 473 mixed with the lactic acid is powerful enough to dissolve all the albumen and fibrine of flesh food into albuminose, and sets free the starch, sugar, and fat, melts the fat, but does not change either. When there is an excess or deficiency of acid in the stomach, the digestion is abnormal. Pepsin is sometimes used as a remedy for dyspepsia, and is obtained from the stomachs of young, healthy pigs which are kept hungry. As all food which is to nourish the system must be converted into a fluid form, any substances which are taken in fluid form and afterward solidified in the stomach, as blood or juice of flesh, milk, and raw eggs, must be changed again to a per- manent liquid form before they can be absorbed. All nitro- genous matters are not only dissolved by the gastric fluid, but are modified so as to remain dissolved. These changed albu- minous matters are called peptones. Oil plays an important part in these changes, so that, although oil is not digested, it serves a useful purpose in passing through the stomach. The stomach would digest itself were it not protected by a sheathing of mucus and by a continual forming of cells called epithelium, during the process of digestion. The liquid or watery portions of food enter at once into the circulation by absorption. If too much water be taken with food, it dilutes the gastric juice and retards the digestion; as all that is not needed must be absorbed before digestion can go on. Digestion is also retarded by the presence of very hot or very cold food, as everything taken into the stomach has to be changed to the normal temperature of 100°. A large amount of food overloads the stomach, distends the muscular coats, and lessens the power of motion. Too little food is also a mistake, as the stomach needs a certain amount of bulk to work upon. Continual or irregular eating is wholly contrary to the intention of nature, since it does not allow the stomach time to rest and to form new cells to secrete digestive fluids. Flesh food that is finely minced, like hash, croquettes, and many entrees, passes rapidly through the stomach without being dissolved by the gastric juice; but when taken in larger pieces it remains long enough to be all digested. The digestive power of the stomach is weakened when there is any undue action in any other part of the body, as in great muscular exertion or in powerful excitement of the brain. Therefore we should eat sparingly at first, when fatigued by exercise or study or when unduly excited, and should rest awhile after eating. 474 The Boston Cook Book. Lactic acid, small portions of sugar and digested nitrogenous substances, pass into the blood by absorption through the stomach veins. Thus the contents of the stomach leave it in two directions: a portion is absorbed through the coats of the stomach by the process of osmose, or the passage of fluids through animal membranes ; the remainder passes through the pyloric opening into the duodenum and intestines for the com- pletion of digestion. Food from the stomach enters the duode- num in an acid state, and in the intestines is mingled with three alkaline fluids, all containing soda. The pancreatic Jluid^ secreted from the pancreas, digests the fatty matters. It breaks the large granules of oil and fat into a great many minute particles, and converts them into a milky liquid called chyle, w'hich mixes freely with water and passes through the tissues of the intestines into the lacteals. It also changes the starch into sugar, and the sugar into lactic acid, but has very little action on albuminous substances. The hile, secreted from the liver, plays an important part in intestinal digestion, the exact nature of which is unknown. Bile is a complex liquid, consisting of biliary acid in combina- tion with soda. It certainly aids in the absorption of fat, and many suppose its purpose is to lubricate the walls of the intes- tinal canal; from its soapy consistency it effects a smooth, non- irritating passage of the contents. If there be any lack or surplus of the bile, it soon produces an injurious result in the system. The bile is in the intestines, and not in the stomach except when the action of the stomach is inverted, in nausea and vomiting; then the bile is forced up into the stomach in- stead of down into the intestines. The intestinal juice, secreted in the mucous membrane the entire length of the intestine, combines the active and digestive powers of all the other secretions. The lactic acid is formed so rapidly from the digestion of sugar that the contents of the intestine quickly becomes acidu- lous, and this completes the digestion of any portions of nitro- genous food not fully digested in the stomach. The combined amount of the salivary, gastric, pancreatic, biliary, and intes- tinal fluids secreted daily is twenty-one pints, of which the gastric juice forms more than one half. There are mechanical aids to intestinal as well as stomach digestion. The wii thing, worm-like motion, or peristaltic movement, of the muscular coats of the intestines forces the food downward, and exposes all portions of it to the digestive fluids. The Boston Cook Book. 475 Notwithstanding all these powerful agents in digestion, a portion of useful matter passes through the intestines un- changed; and if there be a deficiency of either fluid, or a weakness of the muscular coats, or too great a quantity of irri- tating substance, like cellulose, woody fibre, bran, etc., the amount is increased. This is carried, with the innutritions portion, into the larger intestine, and forms a part of the excretions. ABSORPTION. The nutritive and perfectly digested portions of food are absorbed partly by the veins of the stomach, entering at once into the circulation, and partly by the intestines. The lining membrane of the intestines folds over and over upon itself, like a ruffle, along the entire edge; this is full of little tubes, or villi, which absorb the chyle. The blood vessels absorb the nutritive elements from the villi and carry them to the veins in two ways: 1st. Through the portal vein into the liver, where it penetrates every part of the liver, then passes out through the hepatic vein into the veins near the heart; 2d. Through the lacteals, which are attached to the lining membrane of the intestines and empty into the thoracic duct, a tube extending along the spine, and then into the subclavian vein, w’hich lies in the left side of the neck, under the collar bone. The veins also bring with them the lymph, — a thin colorless fluid which comes from the absorbent vessels situated all over the body, and which contains the worn-out particles. Then the venous blood, supplied from the lacteals with new material, and from the lymphatic vessels with waste materials, enters the heart through the upper door, or right auricle, passes through the valves down into the right ventricle ; out through the pulmonary artery into the lungs, where, as purple venous blood, it penetrates to the most remote capillaries. If the lungs be full of pure fresh air, the oxj^gen changes the purple blood into red blood, and burns up the impurities. The waste products of the combustion of carbon and hydrogen are expelled from the lungs at every breath in the form of carbonic acid and watery vapor; and not until now can the new elements in the blood, obtained from the food, become in reality food, or perfect blood. 476 The Boston Cook Book. This oxygenized or vitalized blood now returns from the lungs, and enters the heart through the left upper door, or left auricle; the valves open and allow it to pass into the left ventricle, then out through the aorta, or great artery, from which the arteries carry it to the capillaries all over the system. In the capillaries the new material is deposited wherever needed, and changed by cell growth into new tissue. The lymphatic vessels take up all that is not needed, with the worn-out portions; and the veins then carry this impure blood back again to the lungs and heart. Thus a continuous circulation is established, the blood coursing over the whole body once in every three to five minutes, the time varying with the amount of exercise and the state of health. During this circulation the combustible compounds are burned by the oxygen received into the blood in the lungs, the carbona- ceous products of combustion are expelled through the lungs as carbonic acid gas and watery vapor, and the nitrogenous pro- ducts through the kidneys in the form of urates. “ This process of digestion and absorption is really a kind of preliminary cooking process, going on from the mouth downwards all the way to the colon ; and from every part of the loug canal tiny lacteals and absorbing veinlets carry off contributions of food either to the general store of chyle, or to the venous blood which is hurrying back to the heart.” NUTRITION. “ Albumen is the basis of all animal nutrition. This is seen in the bird’s egg during incubation. Under the influence of warmth and oxygen, all the tissues, membranes, and bones are developed from albumen.” In the human body a nutritious fluid is prepared from the food, and supplies materials for growth and repair. This fluid is the blood, and when examined under the microscope is found to consist of a clear colorless fluid, of a saline, alkaline,^ and albuminous nature, and an immense number of infinitely minute blood globules, or corpuscles. These corpuscles consist of an albuminous membrane called globulin, filled with a red coloring matter, hematine, in which there is much iron. This liquid albuminous portion of the blood must be changed to fibrine before it can nourish the muscles of the body. The The Boston Cook Book. 477 change of the gluten, caseine, and all the varieties of albuminous food into fibrine is a gradual process, begun in the lacteals, con- tinued in the circulation of the blood, and completed in the lungs by the oxygen which they receive in breathing. This fibrine remains in the liquid state, owing to the alkaline nature of the blood, and is distributed by the circulation into all parts of the structure, where it gradually coagulates into a netwoi k of tough thread-like fibres, enclosing in its meshes the blood corpuscles, and is changed by cell growth into new tissue, solid flesh and bone. The nervous system is also built and repaired from albumen. Nervous matter is about seven per cent albumen, and is the material by which w'e are put into relation with the external world. By it we see, hear, feel, taste, smell, and are conscious of existence. Each elementary cell or particle of tissue, whether of bone, flesh, or nerves, seems to have a sort of gland-like power, not only of attracting materials from the blood, but of causing them to assume its structure and participate in its propei’ties. The bones and teeth select and appropriate the phosphates of lime, and magnesia, also fluorine. The muscles and nerves take fibrine, phosphates of magnesia, and potash. The cartilages seek for soda; the hair, skin, and nails are made up of silica. Iron is needed in the coloring matter of the blood, the black pigment of the eye, and in the hair. Sulphur exists in the hair, and phosphorus in the brains. The glands of the mouth take the substances necessary to form saliva; those of the eye, the elements of tears; the coats of the stomach, gastric juice; and the liver, bile. Each part of the body has the power to select, from the common supply, the material which suits it best for building and growing. If the conversion of albumen into fibrine be incomplete, the tissues are imperfectly nourished. The formation of tubercles in the lungs is caused by half-formed cells and coagulated albu- men deposited in the lungs. This is caused by a deficiency of the oily matter, which is necessary for the perfect formation of cells and the growth of healthy tissue. Hence for these cases physicians prescribe cod-liver oil. Distilled spirits coagulate the albumen which ought to go into the blood; this prevents the proper digestion of food, and causes one of the great evils resulting from their use. The ner- vous tissue is thus deprived of nourishment, which is one of the causes of delirium tremens. 478 Ths Boston Cook Book. Every twinge of pain in neuralgia is the nerves crying out for better blood. Imperfect digestion and assimilation of food are the chief causes of neuralgia. Nutrition, though seemingly complex, is really a simple pro- cess; albumen is changed to fibrine, and fibrine to flesh. The relation of each to the other has been aptly compared to that of the raw cotton, the spun yarn, and the woven fabric. The minute corpuscles in the blood are constantly building up the body, very much as the coral insect builds its structure. The work of each corpuscle is too small for our conception ; but, taken in the aggregate, the result is the wonderful growth and renova- tion of the human body. And w'hat is still more wonderful, every organ of the body is on the alert to keep the whole system in natural health. The activity of the vessels which remove the waste particles from the blood is untiring. The kidneys are the scavengers of the body, and stand next to the lungs in renovating it. If too much water be drunk, the kidneys, lungs, and skin carry it off, for fear that the blood should become too watery. We may cease to convey food into the body for days with no evil consequences; but let the removing organs cease operations for a single day, and disease ensues. LIFE AND MOTION.i Circulation of Water. — Asa plant grows, water from the soil or air unites chemically with carbon, and forms the w'oody fibre of the stem, the sugar of the sap, and the starch of the seed. When the plant dies, the water is again set free from its struc- ture and passes into the air. The starch and sugar, also, which the plant yields having been consumed by some animal, the water which they contain passes into the air through the lungs and skin. Thus the same water is caused to revolve in a circle of life-sustaining combinations. Within a single hour it may be in some vegetable structure in the form of sugar; then it may pass into and circulate through some animal system and be discharged as vapor from the lungs, and afterwards become 1 This article is mainly an abstract of the chapters on the “Circulation of Matter,’’ contained in “Johnston’s Chemistry of Common Life.’’ It is inserted here as bearing upon the general subject of food, and with the hope that all who read this will read the original. The Boston Cook Book. 479 absorbed by thirsty leaves and aid in the growth of flowers and fruits. Circulation of Carbon. — Vegetables, which are largely starch and carbon, absorb carbonic-acid gas from the atmosphere, which contains thirty-three grains of carbon in every square inch. If the world were all dry land, and covered with dense vegetation, all the carbon would be extracted from the atmosphere in twenty- three years. This carbonic acid is restored to the atmosphere by the waste and decay of vegetable matter, by the exhalations from animals, and by combustion. The leaf of a living plant draws in carbonic acid gas from the air, and gives off the oxygen contained in it, retaining only the carbon. The roots drink in moisture from the soil; and out of the carbon and water contained in it the plant forms starch, sugar, fat, and other substances. The animal takes the starch, sugar, or fat into its stomach, and draws in oxygen through its lungs. New chemical combina- tions are thus foi med, undoing the work of the plant, and send- ing back to the air, from the lungs and skin, both the starch and oxj'gen, in the form of carbonic-acid gas and water. The same material is constantly circulating, — now floating in invisible air, nOw forming the substance of the growing plant, now of the moving animal, and now diffusing itself through the air ready to go its round again. It forms part of a vegetable to-day; to- morrow it is in a man’s backbone; a week hence it may have passed through another plant and into another animal. In burning coal, we cause its carbon^ to unite with the oxygen of the air and to disappear as carbonic acid gas. The carbon returns to the atmosphere from which it may have been taken millions of years ago when it was appropriated by the growing plants, which, in the form of vegetable matter, were afterwards buried beneath the surface of the earth only to reappear ages subsequently in the form of fuel. The earth itself breathes out carbonic acid, sometimes with water, sometimes alone. It sparkles in the springs of Carlsbad and Seltzer; it kills man and beast in the terrible “ Valley of Death ” in the island of Java. In this way is supplied the loss of that which is daily buried by the shell fish and coral insects in the limestone formations and coral growths. These rocks contain, chained down in seem- ingly everlasting imprisonment, two fifths of their weight of carbonic acid. Circulation of Nitrogen. — Gluten and fibrine are distinguished from starch and fat by containing nitrogen. The nitiogen forms 480 The Boston Cook Book. four fifths of the air. It exists also in ammonia, ar.d in aqua fortis, or nitric acid. These two compound bodies exist and are found in the soil; and from the soil the nitrogen is taken up by the plants, and gluten is formed. When the animal consumes the gluten, it builds up and renews the waste of its several parts. The gluten of the plant is transformed into the flesh and tissues of the living animal. Thus the nitrogen of the soil through the plant has reached the dignity of being a part of breathing, intellectual man. Having reached this form, this restless element, nitrogen, grows weary of inactivity and moves on. Not only the living body as a whole is in constant motion, but even its minutest parts are continually active. “ They are like the population of a great city moving to and fro, coming and going continually, weeded out and removed every hour by deaths and departures, yet as unceasingly kept up in numbers by new in-comers, chang- ing from day to day so insensibly as to escape observation, yet so evidently that after a few years scarcely a known face can be discovered among the congregated thousands.” Scarcely has the gluten of the plant been fitted comfortably to its place in the muscle, the skin, or the hair of the animal, when it begins to be dissolved again and is removed. The living animal absorbs much oxygen from the air by its lungs. One part of it converts the carbon of the food into car- bonic acid; another portion is built into the substance of the body; a large part is emplo^^ed in dissolving and removing the waste in urea, uric acid, qtc. This urea and uric acid return to the soil from which the nityogen they contain originally came, and where they are reconverted into ammonia, nitric acid, and other substances, and are now ready to enter into new roots and go the rounds again. The undigested gluten is rejected in the animal droppings, mingles with the soil, and is changed to ammonia and nitric acid. The vegetables which die undergo natural decay, and again enter the soil and air as elements. Animal bodies them- selves die at last, and the nitrogen they contain is made to assume the forms in which plants are able to take it up. The ammonia and volatile compounds of nitrogen, produced by animal and vegetable decay, rise in the form of gas or vapor, and escape into the air. The rains of heaven w’ash the ammonia out and bring it back to the earth. Part of it is, however, resolved into elementary nitrogen, and is thus lost to plants. To make up for this loss, nitric acid is formed in the air in small quantities. The Boston Cook Book. 481 Through the agency of the electric currents the oxygen and nitrogen of the air unite to form nitric acid. Ammonia is given off by volcanoes, and is returned to the earth by the rains and snows. Circulation of Mineral Matter. — Everything which the animal body contains is derived, directly or indirectly, from vegetable foods; and the mineral or ash it leaves, when burned, must have come from the soil through the plant. When the animal dies, its body sooner or later returns to the soil. So we have another circle in which the earthy matter of animals and plants moves. It ascends from the soil to the plant, then to the animal, and back again to mother earth, so that it is really “ dust to dust.” The plant does not absorb all mineral matters, but selects the rarer and more precious materials from the soil, and such as are held in solution by water. Phosphoric acid, lime, magnesia, and saline matter, of which common salt is a representative, are the principal substances chosen. The animal eating the vegetable, these substances enter its stomach, and are dissolved and enter the blood. The vessels provided for the purpose select the re- quired material, and, like ships in commerce, sail away on the blood rivers to their destined havens. The saline portion is car- ried to the blood and tissues. The phosphate of lime goes to the bones, and phosphate of potash to the muscles. After a time the animal, partly as it wastes and finally when it dies, returns to the soil all that the plant took from it. New plants receive it, and it goes the rounds again.. So, over and over again, as the modeller fashions his clay, plant and animal are formed out of the same material. Is all sense- less matter to be constantly working, and are we intelligent beings to idle away a precious but limited existence ? One should learn from this always to work for a definite purpose. How lovely is the plant in its position of bond-servant of man ! How willing and interesting! It serves till death, yet rises again rejoicing as ever, when spring returns, to renew its destined toil. The least alteration in the natural constitution of things would insure the extinction of animal and vegetable life. 81 482 The Boston Cook Book, RECAPITULATION. The Plant takes in, water ^ by its roots ; carbonic acid^ by its leaves; nitrogen^ in the form of ammonia and nitric acid; minerals, in the form of phos- phoric acid, lime, common and other salts, from the soil. The Animal takes in, water ^ starch, fat, gluten, and mineral matters, in the form of vege- table and animal food, into its stomach; and oxygen into its lungs. The Soil takes in, urea and other animal excretions, dead animals and plants. The Plant produces, oxygen, from its leaves ; sugar, starch, gluten, and mineral matters, in its sap and solid substances. The Animal produces, car- bonic acid and water, which are exhaled from the skin and lungs ; urea, phosphates, and other salts, in the excretions; the fat in the body, which is in time breathed away in the form of carbonic acid; water and perfect muscle, hone, blood, and tissues, to build and repair the body. The Soil produces, carbon in the form of wood and coal, and in spring water; ammonia, ni- tric acid, and other nitrogenous compounds ; phosphoric acid, lime, common salt, and other mineral matters. So the movement is circular; the beginning is the end. A marvellous commerce appears; soil, plant, and animal commin- gling ; the elements of each being at different times the eleraenta of aU, and their interchange perpetual. The Boston Cook Book. 483 SUGG-ESTIONS TO TEACHERS. The Course of Instruction at the Boston Cooking School, which is inserted on page 495, may be helpful to those interested in establishing Schools of Cookery. Beginning with the care of a fire and the simple dishes in daily use, the course includes illustrations of every principle involved in cookery. Special attention is given to bread, soups, entrees, meats, healthful puddings, desserts, and dishes for the invalid. The course is so arranged that each lesson offers a bill of fare for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. The number of dishes prepared at each lesson should be determined by the age and ability of the pupils, and the character of the instruction desired. In some classes it is desirable to have the dishes which are prepared served at the close of the lesson ; thus an opportunity is given to instruct in laying the table and serving the food. With beginners or very young pupils, it is better to teach only two or three dishes at a lesson. Taking the first lesson in the first course for an example, a practice lesson may be conducted after the following plan. Explain first the construction of the stove and the making and care of a fire. When convenient, each pupil should take the entire care of a fire for one lesson. Let the pupils become familiar with the kitchen utensils, their names, and uses. The receipts should be read, and copied, if no text-book be used, and a portion of the work assigned each pupil. After the receipts are given, one pupil should prepare the yeast, another mix the bread, another pare and put the po- tatoes to soak, and another cut the bread for croutons, and wipe and trim the chops. The tables should be so arranged that pupils may watch what others are doing while busy about their own work. The attention of the whole class should be called to the making of the bread and yeast, and each in turn should help in the kneading. After the bread and yeast are set to rise, the potatoes should be put on to boil, the soup started, and the German toast prepared and left to soak. Those who prepared the bread and yeast may lay the table. When the potatoes and 484 The Boston Cook Book. soup are done, keep them hot while the chops are being cooked, the toast browned, and the coffee made. Keep the other dishes hot while the soup is being served. Let the pupils share in turn the duties of waitress and hostess. In the second lesson the teacher should have ready for baking bread mixed the night before, and also some cold boiled potatoes. While one pupil is preparing the pans for the bread, another may shape part of the dough into a loaf, and then all may assist in shaping rolls or biscuit. The blanc-marige should be pre- pared next, and put away to cool. Then the meat and potatoes chopped for the hash, and the eggs boiled in various ways. One or two eggs will be sufficient to illustrate soft- boiled eggs, and may be eaten at once. The hard-boiled eggs may be used in making scalloped eggs. The gruels may be made at any time, and tested when ready. Then start the potato soup, bake the rolls or bread, cook the fried or creamed potatoes and the hash, and while the table is being laid and the soup finished, another pupil'may broil the fish. Where it is not desirable to have a lunch, or where only a few lessons are given, it is better to have each lesson devoted wholly to one subject. In a lesson on bread, several kinds of bread may be mixed, and that baked which was mixed the night be- fo?’e. Also make soda biscuit, rye muffins, and gems or corn cake. Or arrange the lessons with reference to the principles and methods of cooking, as shown in the programme for a course of lectures. In practice classes the pupils should do all the work under the guidance of the teacher. It is not enough that the work be done for them, letting them learn by looking on. They should do for themselves, the teacher directing and explaining. It is better to run the risk of spoiling a dish than not to give the pupils a chance to try, as a failure is often the best lesson pupils can have. Then they will know what to avoid when work- ing alone. In large classes or in a demonstration lesson, the work may all be done by the teacher with the assistance of the advanced pupils. During a lesson instruction should be given in washing dishes and in the buying and care of materials used in cooking, and the pupils should be encouraged to ask questions freely. Examine the pupils frequently in the general principles of cookery, and the nature of food materials. Although it is not necessary to memorize every receipt, yet every pupil should be sufficiently The Boston Cook Book. 485 familiar with the rules to be able to make bread, soup, coffee, several kinds of puddings and dishes for invalids, and to cook a variety of meats and vegetables, without referring to a receipt. Each one should have a correct idea of proportions, that she may detect any error in a new receipt. Pupils should dress appropriately for their work, cultivate habits of neatness and order, and never be encouraged to think that any part of cooking is disagreeable or unworthy of their very best effort; and the -teacher should have unlimited patience with all, however inexperienced or careless they may be. A COURSE OF STUDY FOR NORMAL PUPILS. The Uses and Classification of Food. The Composition of the Human Body. Non-Combustible Food : Water and Salts. Condiments and Beverages. Carbonaceous Food : Starch, Sugar, and Fats. Nitrogenous Food : Milk, Eggs, Fish, Meat, Cereals, and Vegetables. Cookery; Fire and Fuel. Methods of Cooking. Measuring, Mixing, and Tables of Proportions. Digestion, Absorption, Assimilation, and Nutrition. Proportion of Food and Adaptation to Climate; Occupation; Age and State of Health. Circulation of Water; Carbon, Nitrogen, and Mineral Matter. 486 The Boston Cook Book. MISCELLANEOUS QUESTIONS FOR EXAMINATION. [No attempt at classification has been made in preparing these questions, as every teacher can testify that questions in daily life do not come in regular order.] How should a fire be built? What is the general plan upon which every stove is constructed? How should the heat be reo'ulated in the oven? What articles are baked on the lower part of the oven ; on the grate? How is it in a set range? What is the difference between a stove and a range ; between a set range and a portable range? Where is the hottest place in the oven; on the top of the stove? How do you keep a steady fire to boil anything that must be kept at the same temperature several hours? What kind of a fire should you have for broiling? How do you blacken a stove? How do you clean a stove while hot? What precautions should be taken while frying in deep fat ? How do you remove fat if spilled on a hot stove? How should meat be basted ? How may you keep supplied with hot water? How do you wash glasses; silverware; greasy dishes; egg-beaters; bread boards and bowls? How do you clean frying-pans; kettles; iron pans? What are the best kinds of ware for general cooking? How do you clean tin and granite ware? What is to be done if anything burns on while boiling? How do you clean a refrigerator? How do you sharpen a knife? What is the best knife for paring; for scraping; for turning when frying? How do you keep a sink and dishpan clean? What is a set of “ hollow ware,” usually sold with a stove? What is a frying-pan; Scotch bowl; griddle; gridiron; broiler; stewpan; saucepan; digester; braising-paii ; gem pan; muffin pan? What is the difference between Washington, jelly-cake, squash, and mince pie plates? What is a gravy sti'ainer; puree strainer; squash strainer; colander? What is the difference between a bread and meat-carving knife? What is a double boiler? When is an iron spoon not to be used, or a steel knife? What is the best spoon for cake-making; for basting meat; for stirring acid mixtures? How do you measure a tablespoonful of The Boston Cook Book. 487 flour; a teaspoouful or half a teaspoonful of soda and cream of tartar; a cup of flour; or milk; or half a cup of butter? How do you grease a bread pan ; a cake pan lined with paper; a grid- dle; a gem pan; a waffle iron? How do you make a smooth flour thickening, or a thin batter? How do you peel potatoes and pare apples to keep them from discoloring? How should potatoes be boiled; rice; macaroni; vegetables, and cereals? What are the proportions of salt and water in boiling? How do you make tea, coffee, and chocolate? Why should water be used as soon as boiled? How should milk be boiled? How do you make a white sauce ; drawn butter ; brown gravy ? Why is meat for soup put into cold water? How do you make a stew? How do you keep pea soup from separating? How do you broil meat and fish? How do you toast bread? How do you boil eggs? How do you make boiled custard; yeast; water bread? How much yeast and flour is used to one quart of milk? Ho'w many brickloaf pans of bread will six quarts of flour make? What is the order of mixing in breakfast cakes; bread; cake? How do you know when bread is done; steak; cake; oysters? What is the proper method of frying? What is the test for frying? How should fried articles be drained? How much soda and cream of tartar for one quart of flour? Why does cold water settle coffee? Why does raw potato clarify fat? Why does milk boil more quickly than water? Why not put water in the pan with roast meat? Why do we beat eggs for cake, but not as much for custards? Why is heavy bread unwholesome? Why should starchy food be well cooked? What is food? What is nitrogenous food? What is car- bonaceous food? What is the use of water as food? What are the minerals we take as food? Explain assimilation. What foods produce the most heat? What foods produce the most strength? Why does the Laplander eat fat? Why do the Chinese eat rice? Why do we not eat fat in summer? What is the best food for laboring men; for students; for children? What kinds of food contain all the necessary elements? What are saccharine foods? What are farinaceous foods? What is meat? What are the best kinds? When are they in season? What is the difference between red and white-blooded fish? What is cream? Why is whey desirable as food in sickness? What is gluten; starch? Explain the digestion of starchy foods. What chemical changes take place in bread made with yeast? Why do we beat eggs? What is cooking soda, and what is its use? What is cream of tartar, and why do we use it? 488 The Boston Cook Book, What is the effect of an unusual amount of soda in cooking and upon the health? What is the use of gelatine? Why do we use condiments and flavorings? How do you make a soupi hrown soup 5 white soup? What is the best way to cook a piece of tough meat? W^hat is the best way to cook a neck of mutton? Why do we eat potatoes with fish? Why do we eat milk, but- ter, or eggs with rice? Why do we eat pork with beans? Why does meat putrefy and fruit decay? Why does salting preserve meat? Why does salting make meat less digestible? Why are not habitual eaters of salt meat long-lived? Which diet is best, meat or vegetable, or a mixture of both? What are the principal beverages? What is the effect of tea on the system? What are capers; mushrooms; truffles? What is farina ; mazina; semolina? How would you select the best beef; mut- ton; poultry; fish; lobsters? Why is a stale egg lighter than a fresh one? AVhy do we not use hard water in cooking? Why do w^e not fry in mutton fat? What is the test for frying ‘for different things? Why do we not fry in water? What is the effect of baking or boiling potatoes too long? What is the most important process in digestion? What are salads; en- trees? What is caramel; soy? What part of the plant is an apple; a chestnut; chocolate; a turnip; a clove; a blackberry; spinach ; rhubarb ; cinnamon ; sugar ; onion ; coffee ; vanilla ? What are prunes? What is hoe-cake? What is the derivation of the word “bread”? Why do we knead bread? Why do we cook our food? What were the earliest methods of cooking? What is the meaning of the term “ cookery ”? What is the difference between baking, roasting, broiling, sauteing, frying, braising, stewing, simmering, and boiling? What is a pot-roast? Give a rule for tomato soup. Give a rule and the exact order for making fish balls. Why is starchy food better cooked in boiling water? Correct this rule for gingerbread, write the rule in the right order, and estimate the cost: Four cups and a half of sugar ^ one teaspoonful of molasses, two cups of ginger, one cup of soda, one tablespoonful of flour, one tablespoonful of butter, and one tea- spoonful of sour milk. Why does a bright tin cover keep anything hotter than a dull cover? Why does soup keep hot longer than water? Why does a kettle of water sometimes boil over? Why does water simmer before it boils? Why does cream rise to the top of milk? 'Why will water dissolve sugar and not oil? Why is meat tough if The Boston Cook Book. 489 boiled too rapidly? Why are decayed fruits unwholesome? Why do we scald preserves when they turn sour? Why does an egg tarnish silver? What is acetic acid; citric acid; malic acid; tartaric acid; oxalic acid? What is the difference between an acid and an alkali? Why are potatoes frozen and thawed sweet? Why does hard work make us hungry? Why does exercise make us warmer? What is the best antidote for poison taken in the stomach? How does the white of an egg clear soup and coffee? Give a rule for yeast ; plain cake; Charlotte Russe; ice-cream; pastry. What is meant by the economy of nature? What are some of the simplest rules for table etiquette? Give the order of courses at a fashionable dinner-party. Give rules for beef tea, gruels, and drinks for invalids. Give some general rules to be observed in one’s own kitchen and in teaching. 490 The Boston Cook Book. TOPICS AND ILLUSTRATIONS FOR LECTURES ON COOKERY. [The number of dishes demonstrated at each lecture may be varied at the discretion of the lecturer.] I. AN INTRODUCTORY TALK ON COOKERY, FIRE, STOVES, MEASURING, AND MIXING. — Omelet, White Sauce, Cauli- flower a la Creme, Fish a la Hollandaise, Cream Toast, Baked Quinces. MIXING AND BAKING; BATTERS AND DOUGHS. — French Pancakes, Cake, Ginger Drops, Caramel, Brown Sauce, Roast Duck, Olive Sauce. PASTRY AND ICES. — Plain and Puff Paste, Mince and Lemon Pies, Tarts, Cheese Straws, Sherbet. LARDING, STUFFING, AND ROASTING. — Roast Chicken, Chestnut Stuffing and Sauce, Larded Grouse, Bread Sauce, Cran- berries, Bread and Fruit Pudding, Creamy Sauce. SIMMERING, BOILING, AND STEAMING. — Soup Stock, Clear Soup, Left-over JBoup, Boiled Eggs, Macaroni, Rice a la Italienne, Whole-Wheat Pudding, Foamy Sauce. STEWING, FRICASSEEING, AND BRAISING. — Mutton Stew for Two, Chicken Fricassee, Lemon Sauce, Braised Liver, Sauce Piquante, Fish Curry, Fruit Charlotte. BREAD AND SALADS. — Whole- Wheat Bread, Rolls, Gems. Twin Biscuits, Yeast, Chicken Salad, Mayonnaise Dressing, Fish Salad, Sauce Tartare. FRYING AND SAUT^:iNG. — Potatoes, Croutons, Fried Muffins, Fritters, Fish Balls, Oysters Sauted, Rice Waffles, Orange Omelet, Cold Slaw, Boiled Dressing. BROILING. — Venison, Chops, Lobster, Ham, Flounder, Tea, Choco- late, Tutti Frutti. AN EMERGENCY DINNER. — Bisque of Lobster, or Puree of Green Peas, Chicken Croquettes, or Chicken Pilau, Stuffed Pota- toes, Spaghetti, Sardines, Apricot Pudding, Fruit-Syrup Sauce, Coffee. The Boston Cook Book, 491 DISHES FOR THE SICK AND CON VALESCENT. — Irish Moss Lemonade, Plum Porridge, Oatmeal Gruel, Beef Tea, Broiled Squab, liacaliout des Arabes, Crisps, Orange Baskets, Baked Eggs, Broiled Oysters. CAKE, FROSTING, AND DESSERTS. — Sponge Cake, Snow Cake, Frosting, Pineapple Cream, Gateau de Princess Louise, Royal Diplomatic Pudding, Mock Cantaloupe. II. ECONOMICAL DISHES. — Beef Stew with Dumplings, Fish Cro- quettes, Risotti, Steamed and Baked Apple Dumplings, Lemon Sauce, Snow Balls, Roly-Poly Pudding. BREAD, ENTREES, AND ICE-CREAM. — Milk Bread, Rusk, Bunns, Raised Doughnuts, Raised Bread Cake, Devilled Lobster, Curried Lobster, Neapolitan Ice-Cream. BREAKFAST DISHES. — Raised Corn MuflSns, Rice Crusts, Bacon, Clam Omelet, Creamy Omelet, Eggs a la bonne Femme, Coffee. LUNCH DISHES. — Bouillon, Egg Baskets, Chartreuse of Fish, Lombardy Macaroni, Cheese Cups, Cabinet Pudding, Wine Sauce. SOUPS AND RECHAUFFES. — Mullagatawny Soup, Julienne Soup, Crecy Soup, Curry of Mutton, Turkish Croquettes, Meat Porcupine. FISH AND SAUCES. — Puree of Clams, Baked Fish, Oyster Stuffing, Hollandaise Sauce, Kedgeree, Fillets of Fish with Tomato Sauce, Maryland Oysters, Crisped Crackers, Delicate Pudding. A FAMILY DINNER. — Potato or Celery Soup, Roast Beef, York- shire Pudding, Franconia Potatoes, Brown Gravy, Creamed and Scalloped Onions, Prune Pudding. PASTRY. — Plain and Puff Paste, Squash Pie, Eccles Pie, Rissoles, Lobster Patties, Creamed Lobster. SOUPS AND SALADS. — White Soup, Favorite Soup, Ox-tail Soup, Mayonnaise Dressing, Chicken Salad, Vegetable Salad, French Dressing, Frozen Pudding. TEA DISHES. — Rye Short Cake Toast, Apricot Short Cake, Tea, Oysters aux Champignons, Devilled Chicken, Chicken Fillets Broiled, Scalloped Oysters, Imperial Cream. PICNIC DISHES. — Woodlawn Chicken, Sweetbread Sandwiches, Potted Liver, Highland Eggs, Chantilly Cakes, Whitneys. DAINTIES. — Foam Omelet, Chicken Terrapin, Lambs’ Tongues Braised, Sweetbreads, Polonaise Cakes, Charlotte Russe, Plom- biere, Newport Whips. 492 The Boston Cook Book. III. MIXING AND BAKING. — Bread, Graham Muffins, Breakfast Puffs, Waffles, Eggs sur la Plat, Omelet Souffle, Baked Bass, Sauce Hollandaise. MIXING AND BAKING (continued). — Plain and Puff Paste, Mince, Squash, and Chess Pies, Bow Knots, Cupid’s Wells, Sponge Cake. STUFFING, TRUSSING, AND ROASTING. — Roast Chicken with Chestnut Stuffing, Roast Birds, Stuffed Potatoes, Stuffed Eggs, Roast Oysters. BOILING AND STEAMING. — Potato Soup, Celery Soup, Potato a la Neige, Boiled Rice, Casserole of Rice and Meat, Tomato Sauce, Boiled Eggs, Apricots a la Neige, Soft Custard, Coffee. FRYING AND SAUTEING. — Saratoga, Parisienne, Macaroni, Lyonnaise, and French Potatoes; Fried Oysters, Scallops, and Fish ; Breaded Chops, Fish Balls, Potato Croquettes, Croutons. SIMMERING AND SEASONING. — Fifteen-Minute Soup, Clear Soup, Puree of Salmon, Puree of Peas, Egg Balls, Smothered Oysters, Blanquette of Salmon, White Sauce. STEWING AND FRICASSEEING. — Veal Birds. Veal Cutlets, Rolled Flank of Beef, Chicken Fricassee, Oyster Fricassee, Com- pote of Apples. LARDING AND BRAISING. — Larded Grouse, Bread Sauce, Braised Beef, Horse-radish Sauce, Braised Calfs Heart, Sauce Piquante. BONING, BROILING, AND TOASTING. — Boned Quail on Toast, Chops en Papillote, Steak a la Maitre d’Hotel, Huitres au Lit, Fil- let of Sole, Cream Toast, Broiled Oysters. DRESSING AND GARNISHING. — Potato Salad, French Dress- ing, Chicken Salad, Mayonnaise Dressing, Casserole of Mock Sweetbreads, Chicken Croquettes, Italian Jelly, Orange Baskets. POTTING, DEVILLING, AND SCALLOPING. — Potted Ham, Scotch Eggs, Devilled Lobster en Coquille, Scalloped Meat or Fish, Sandwiches, Scalloped Apple. FROSTING, FLAVORING, AND FREEZING.- Pineapple Sher- bet, Coffee Ice-Cream, Bavarian Cream, Gold, Silver, and Water- melon Cake, Plain and Boiled Frosting. The Boston Cook Book. 493 IV. BREAD AND BREAKFAST CAKES. — Milk Bread, Yeast, Raised Waffles, Squash Waffles, Griddle Cakes, Hominy Cakes, Broiled Meat Cakes, Hamburg Steak. NICE IF NOT NEW, DISHES. — Baked Beans, Brown Bread, Buckwheat Cakes, Baked Indian Pudding, Steamed Apple Dump- ling, Doughnuts, Apple Pies, Whips. DISHES FOR CHILDREN AND INVALIDS. — Beef Tea, Broiled Steak, Broiled Squabs, Raw Beef Sandwiches, Oatmeal Mush and Gruel, Baked Apples, Restorative Jelly, Cocoa, Gluten and Rye Mush, Gluten Wafers, Apple and Wheat Pudding, Apple Tapioca Pudding, Fruit Tapioca. A THIRTY-FOUR CENT DINNER. — Potage a la Reine, Crou- tons, Fillet of Beef, Snow Potatoes, Spaghetti, Chicken Croquettes, Lettuce Salad, Boiled Dressing, Sponge Drops, Orange Sherbet, Coffee. SOUPS AND ENTREES. — White Soup, Clear Soup, Clam and Fish Chowder, Clam Croquettes, Aspic Jelly, Boned Chicken, Cranberry Sauce, Halibut a la Creme. DELICATE DESSERTS. — Charlotte Russe, Cream Cakes, Wine Jelly, Gateau de Princess Louise, Norfolk Cream, Chantilly Bas- kets, Creme Diplomate, Bombe Glace. WHAT TO DO WITH A FORE-QUARTER OF MUTTON. — Stuffed Mutton, Mutton Chops, Scotch Broth, Turnips a la Creme, Macaroni, Macdonald Cake, Banana Ice-Cream. BREAKFAST DISHES. — Lyonnaise and Broiled Tripe, Fricassee of Tongues and Sounds, Fried Hasty Pudding, and Oatmeal Mush, Fricadilloes, Bacon, Graham Gems, Laplanders. LUNCH AND PICNIC DISHES. — Bouillon, Parker House Rolls, Lobster en Brochette, 0\'ster Plant Croquettes, Salad Sandwiches, Gingerbread, Dutch Cheese, Pannikins, Canapees, Curried Eggs, Fried Oysters, Cold Slaw. TEA DISHES. — White Mountain and Swedish Rolls, Zephyr Cakes, Brewis, Dutch Apple Cake, Orange Short Cake, Crackers a la Creme, Welsh and Yorkshire Rarebits, Toast, Ham. ENTREES. — Puff Paste, Oysters a la Creme, Patties, Vol-au-vent, Lobster Croquettes, and Cutlets, Turkish Pilaf, Turkish Cro- quettes. DAINTY DISHES. — Potato Souffle, Eggs k la Dauphine, Sweet- breads, Orange Omelet, Orange Cake, Ornamental Frosting, Cafe Parfait, Tropical Snow. 494 The Boston Cook Book. BOOKS OF REFERENCE. Among the many valuable authorities on subjects connected with food, the following have been consulted in preparing this work. The Cook Books are named, not according to their merit, but in the order in which the author has had personal knowledge of them : — Youmans’s Handbook of Household Science. Johnston’s Chemistry of Common Life. Wells’s Science of Common Things. Lewes’s Physiology of Common Life. Grav’s How Plants Grow. Dalton’s Physiology. Webster’s Dictionary. Food. By A. H. Church. Food for the Invalid. Family Receipt Books without number; and Cook Books by Mrs. Henderson, Marion Harland, Mrs. Cornelius, Mrs. Beecher, Warne, Francatelli, Soyer, Mrs. Whitney, Miss Parloa, Mrs. Campbell, Miss Corson, Mrs. Beeton, and Mrs. Ewing. COURSE OF INSTRUCTION AT THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL, 174 TREMONT STREET. FIRST COURSE. — Plain Cooking. Twelve Lessons for 812.00, including materials. First Lesson. PAGE The Making and Care of a Fire 5 Raw Potato Yeast 62 Mixing Water Bread .... 63 Tomato Soup (without Stock) . 147 Croutons 136 Boiled Potatoes 293 Mutton Chops 236 German Toast 76 Coffee Setting the Table and Serving . 440 Second Lesson. Baking Bread Potato Soup Broiled Fish 18i Fried or Creamed Potatoes . . 294 Boiled Eggs Hash 273 Flour and Indian Gruel . . 411, 412 Blanc-Mange . 34j Scalloped Eggs 207 Third Lesson. Mixed Soup Stock .... 124-132 Mixing Milk Bread .... 64 Hop Yeast 83 Beef Tea .... 423 Griddle-Cakes 99 Baked Fish Drawn Butter or Egg Sauce . 187 Mashed Potatoes 294 Steamed Apple Pudding . . . 332 Molasses Sauce 339 Fourth Lesson. Beef Soup with Vegetables . . 132 To Clarifi’’ Fat I8 To Try out Lard 249 Baking Milk Bread .... 58 Baked Potatoes 295 Broiled Steak 223 Broiled Meat Cakes .... 223 Custards: Baked, Boiled, or Steamed 342-344 Cookies or Ginger Snaps . 385-388 Fifth Lesson. Beef Stew -yvith Dumplings . . 225 Graham Bread 66 Scalloped Meat or Fish . 274, 169 Brown Gravy 191 Poached Eggs on Toast . . . 199 Short Cakes 84 Gingerbread 388 Tea Ill 496 The Boston Cook Book. Sixth Lesson, PAGE Baking Graham Bread ... 66 Corn Cakes 91 Fish Balls or Fish Hash . . , 171 Fried Fish 165 Fried Potatoes 296 Omelet 200 Chocolate 118 Dutch Apple Cake 86 Lemon Sauce 328 Oatmeal Gruel 413 Seventh Lesson. Fish Chowder 155 Tripe 230 Liver 231 Brown Bread 68 Graham Gems 84, 95 Bread Pudding 337 Hard Sauce 328 Mixing Rolls 65 Eiffhth Lesson. Pea Soup 149 Baked Beans 249 Veal Cutlets 240 Brewis or Doughnuts . . . 77, 104 Baking Rolls 70 Apple Pie .323, 325 Apple and Toast Water . . . 419 Steamed Squash 304 Ninth Lesson. Scotch Broth 140 Breakfast Bacon 246 Corn Fritters 299 Scalloped Tomato 300 I PAGE Rolls, or Milk Toast .... 78 Raw Beef Sandwiches , . . 424 Cake . . . .^ 376 Indian Pudding ! 338 Tenth Lesson. Roast Beef 220 Potato Croquettes 280 Macaroni 308 Onions, Parsnip, or Cabbage 301, 305 Stewed Apple Sauce .... 394 Oatmeal 109 Baked Apples 394 Rye Muffins . - 90 Eleventh Lesson. Oyster Soup or Stew . . . Broiled Oj'sters Beef Rolls Cold Slaw Hoe Cake Apple Tapioca Pudding . . Lemon or Wine Jelly . . . Bread Tivelflh Lesson. Roast or Fricassee Chicken 257, 258 Boiled Rice 306 Squash or Turnip . . . 304, 305 Horn in}' Cakes 92 Potato Puff 294 Plain Lobster 182 French Dressing 310 Custard Souffl(?, Creamv Sauce, 338, 329 Steamed Suet Pudding, or Snow Pudding 339, 347 179 270 311 93 333 349 SECOND COURSE. — Richer Cooking. Twelve Lessons for 812.00, Including materials. First Lesson. Coffee 115 Oatmeal, Hominy, or Crushed Wheat with Baked Apples . 109 Boiled Potatoes 293 Lyon liaise Potatoes .... 294 Broiled Beefsteak, with MaTtre d’ Hotel Butter .... 223, 195 Egg Vermicelli, or Curried Eggs ....... 206, 205 The Boston Cook Booh 497 PAGE Hominy Drop Cakes, or Rice Griddle-Cakes, or Soda Bis- cuit 94, 100, 83 Frizzled Beef, or Tongues and Sounds 272, 173 Second Lesson. Mutton Cutlets Breaded, with Tomato Sauce .... 236, 194 Shoo Fly Potatoes 296 Parisienne Potatoes .... 296 Omelet 201 Fried R}'e Muffins 104 Waffles 98 Lemon Syrup 98 Chocolate 118 Third Lesson. Yeast 63 Bread 63 Parker House Rolls .... 70 Scalloped Oysters 177 Smothered Oysters .... 176 Oysters Sauted 179 Baked Eggs 203 Eggs in Baskets 208 Breakfast Bacon 246 Tea 112 Fourth Lesson. Stock for Clear Soup .... 130 Fried or Broiled Fish . . . 165, 161 Tartar Sauce 194 Potato Croquettes 280 Fish Balls 171 Pease Cakes 101 Macaroni or Spaghetti . . . 308 Fried Oysters or Scallops . 178, 181 Apple Meringue 333 Sponge Cake 373 Fifth Lesson. Clear Soup 129 Egg Balls and Forcemeat Balls 136 Caramel 134 Potatoes a la Maitre d’Hotel . 295 Baked Fish, with Sauce Hol- landaise 164, 194 Sticks and Rolls PAGE 71 Caramel Custard 344 Caramel Sauce . . . • . . . 330 Lettuce Salad 312 Boiled Dressing . 310 Gluten Wafers . 97 Sixth Lesson. Braised Beef, or Beef a la Mode 224, 225 Potato Balls 294 Onions, or Cabbage Baked . 301, 302 Mock Bisque Soup 147 Raised Muffins 87 Custard Souffle 337 Creamy Sauce 329 Rice Souffle, or Bird’s-Nest Pudding, or Orange Short Cake 336, 333, 86 Seventh Lesson. Purde of Fish 152 Cusk a la Creme 168 White Sauce 190 Meat Rechauffe, or Curried Lobster 273, 183 Potato Salad 313 Apple or Lemon Pie .... 325 Cream Cakes, or Friars’ Omelet 389, 334 Flannel Cakes, or White Moun- tain Rolls 99, 72 Gluten Mush 415 Ei(jhth Lesson. Black Bean Soup 148 Crohtons 136 Roast Beef 220 Franconia Potatoes .... 295 Yorkshire Pudding .... 221 Parsnip Fritters 305 Spinach 296 Danish Pudding, or Gelatine Pudding 342, 346 Rice Croquettes 281 Beef Tea 423 Irish Moss Lemonade .... 420 32 498 The Boston Cook Book. Ninth Lesson. PAGE Mutton Broth 141 Stutfed Leg of Mutton . . . 233 Currant Jelly Sauce .... 191 Turkish Pilaf 283 Turnips in White Sauce, or Cauliflower 305, 301 Tea Rolls 89 Tapioca Cream, or Scalloped Apple 345, 331 Crackers a la Creme .... 283 Panada 414 Cream Pies 375 Tenth Lesson. Cream of Celery Soup , . . 147 Roast Chicken, or Chicken Curry or Fricassee . . 257, 258 Boiled Rice 306 Cranberry Sauce 395 Potatoes 293 Spider Corn Cake, or Squash Waffles 92, 102 Gold and Silver Cake .... 379 Plain Frosting 384 Snow Pudding, or Apple Snow- balls 347, 335 Eleventh Lesson. PAGE While Soup 144 Chicken Croquettes .... 279 Potted Pigeons, or Broiled Squabs 262, 260 Apple Fritters 107 Graham Gems 95 Lady Fingers 374 Sponge Drops • 374 Charlotte Russe 354 Orange or Wine Jelly ... 350 Chicken Custard 426 Plum Porridge 411 Twelfth Lesson. Puff Paste 316 Squash or Custard Pie . . . 325 Oyster Patties 319 Raspberry Tarts 319 Creamed Oysters 177 Creamed Lobster ..... 183 Lobster Salad 315 Mayonnaise Dressing .... 311 Tea Cakes, or Cream Muffins . 89 Ice-Cream or Sherbet . . . 362, 368 THIRD COURSE. — Fancy Cooking. Twelve Lessons for $15.00 ; materials extra, $3.00 to $8.00. First Lesson. Bouillon 131 Yeast 63 Bread 65 Potato Souffle 295 Twin Biscuit, or Breakfast Puffs 83, 94 Coffee 115 Cream Toast 79 Broiled Fillets of Beef, or Cliops en Papillote, or Broiled Chicken, or Devilled Chicken 223, 236, 260 Second Lesson. Amber Soup or Consommd . • 131 Sticks and Rolls . . . . 72 Corn Meal Puffs .... 93 Smelts a la Tartar, or Fillets of Bass or Flounders . . . 165, 161 Fried Oysters or Scallops 178, 181 Potatoes, Saratoga and Parisi- enne 296 Chocolate Rice Croquettes, or Bavarian Cream 281, 356 Silver or Cornstarch Cake . • 380 Plain Frosting 384 The Boston Cook Booh 499 Third Lesson. PAGE White Soup from Veal . . . 143 Veal Birds 275 Casserole of Rice or Potato . . 274 Veal Croquettes, or Oysters and Mushrooms in Crust 279, 178 Spinach 296 Hominy or Turkish Croquettes 281 Wonders, or Henriettes . . . 106 Pigs in Blankets 178 Creme Diplomate 358 Orange Omelet, or Sweet Omelet, or Omelet Souffl<5 202, 203 Fourth Lesson. Potage a la Reine 144 Chicken Croquettes, or Blan- quette of Chicken, or Chicken Souffle ...... 279, 268, 276 Scotch Eggs, or Stuffed Eggs 207, 206 Breakfast Rolls or Waffles . . 98 Cauliflower a la Creme . . . 301 Potted Meat, or Salmis of Game 277, 270 Rice and Apricot Pudding . . 336 Sardine Sandwiches .... 273 Apple or Orange Charlotte . . 348 Fifth Lesson. Potato Soup 146 Fillet of Beef with Mushrooms, or Fricandeau of Veal, or Roast Duck with Olives 222, 240, 261 Potatoes 296 Bread 66 Vegetables 300-306 Sponge Cake 373 Snow Pudding, or Baked Plum Pudding 347, 338 Macedoine of Fruits, or Orange Baskets 350, 351 Sixth Lesson. Puff Paste 316 Patties and Rissoles . . . 319, 321 Chess Pie 324 Mince Pie 326 PAGE Puff Paste Plaits 322 Cupid’s Wells 320 Bow-Knots 321 Vol-au-vent 321 Cheese Straws 322 Cakes a la Polonaise .... 321 Canellons. See Explanation of Terms used in Cookery. Fanchonnettes 327 Seventh Lesson. Oysters on Ice 176 Larded Grouse, Bread Sauce 262, 193 Egg Salad, or Eggs in Cases . 209 Oyster Salad, or en Coquille 177, 314 Fried Celery, Parsnip, or Salsify 107 Cheese Souffld 282 Creme Frete, or Cinci . . 282, 106 liclairs 389 Charlotte Russe, or Gateau St. Honord . . 354, 359 Egg Souffld in Cases . ... 337 Eighth Lesson. Puree of Salmon . . ... 152 Salmon Cutlets, or Broiled Birds, or Birds in Potato Cases . . 280, 263 Braised Pigeons with Spinach, or Tongue in Jelly . . . 262, 230 Royal Diplomatic Pudding . . 358 Parisienne Souffle 344 Kisses, Mdringues, or Macaroons 389, 390 Apple Snow, or Floating Island 345, 343 Ninth Lesson. Bisque of Lobster 152 Chicken in Aspic Jelly . . . 267 Scalloped Lobster en Coquille . 183 Cream Muffins 89 Welsh Rarebit, or Sardine Cana- pees 282, 283 Cabinet Pudding, or Eve’s Pud- ding, or Orange Souffle . 339, 333, 344 Chocolate Caramels, or Cocoa- nut Cakes 390 500 The Boston Cook Booh Tenth Lesson. PAGE Stock for Mock Turtle Soup . 137 Braised Calf’s Heart or Liver . 231 French Potatoes 295 Asparagus, or Spinach . . 297, 296 Quails on Toast 263 Chartreuse of Chicken . . . 269 Cake 376-382 Boiled Icing 384 Sherbet 368 Quaking Custard, or Tropical Snow 346, 393 Eleventh Lesson. Devilled Lobster or Crab . 183, 184 Shrimps en Coquille, or Mush- rooms 184, 303 Lobster Cutlets, or Lobster Cro- quettes, or Crihiped Cod . 280, 170 Harlequin Cake . . . PAGE Orange Cake .... . . 377 Ornamental Frosting . . . . 384 Dominoes, or Madelines . . . 379 Ice-Cream, or Bombe Glacd . 363, 367 Twelfth Lesson. Sweetbreads with Peas . . . 243 Sweetbreads in Cases . . . . 243 Sweetbread Croquettes . . . 279 Salads Mayonnaise Dressing . . . . 311 Sweetbreads with Mushrooms . 244 Strawberry Charlotte . . . . 355 Gateau de Princess Louise . . 360 Frozen Pudding, or Tutti Frutti, 366, 365 Caf^ Parfait, or Frozen Apri- cots 365, 367 NURSES’ COURSE. Twelve Lessons for $5.00. First Lesson. BEEF ESSENCE. Stewed 423 Bottled 423 Broiled 423 Raw Beef Sandwich .... 424 BEEF TEA. Stewed 423 Bottled ........ 423 Broiled 423 Broiled Steak 426 GRUELS. Flour Arrowroot Cornstarch Rice Flour Indian Corn Barley Oatmeal Cj'acker Egg Plum Porridge MUSHES. JELLIES. Graham Indian Gluten Rye Oatmeal Homin}’^ Cracked Wheat Granulated Wheat Prepared Flour Racahout des Arabes . . . . 415 415 415 415 414 109 109 109 428 427 Sago . . Tapioca . Rice Flour Calves’ Feet Beef . . Chicken . Orange Wine . . Lemon . . Restorative 411 411 411 411 412 412 413 413 413 411 416 416 415 417 418 418 350 350 349 416 The Boston Cook Book. 501 Second Lesson, drinks. P\GE Tea Ill Coffee 115 Chocolate 118 Cocoa 117 Shells 117 Crust Coffee 4^19 Rice Coffee 419 Egg Coffee 425 Egg Tea 425 Apple Tea 419 Eggnog 424 Toast Water 419 Corn Tea 419 Wine Whey 420 Slippery Elm 419 Baked Lemon 420 Lemonade 420 Flaxseed Lemonade .... 420 Irish Moss Lemonade .... 420 Jelly and Ice 420 Third EGGS. Boiled 199 Poached 199 Scrambled 200 Baked 203 Omelet 201 Vermicelli 206 POTATOES. Boiled 292 Mashed 294 Riced 293 Baked 295 Creamed ........ 294 Souffle 295 TOAST. PAGE Dry Toast 78 Water ......... 78 Milk 78 Cream • . . 79 Egg 76 Cracker 283 Brewis 77 OYSTERS. Broiled 179 Smothered 176 Steamed ' . . • 175 Creamed 177 Toast 177 Roasted 175 Clam Broth 154 Parisienne 296 Browned 294 CUSTARDS. Boiled 342 Steamed . 344 Cup 344 Baked 342 Chicken 426 Snow Pudding 347 Apple Charlotte 348 Orange Sponge 348 Gelatine Pudding 346 Apple Snow ....... 345 Fourth Lesson. Mutton Broth, with Rice or Bar- ley 141 Mutton Chops 236 Boiled Rice, Spinach or Aspara- gus 306, 296, 297 Vegetables, in White Sauce . 305 Bread 65 Gluten Wafers 97 Gingerbread 388 Yeast 62 Tapioca Cream ...... 345 Fruit Tapioca ...... 342 502 The Boston Cook Book, Bird’s-Nest Pudding . . Baked Apples . . . . Apple Sandwich . . . PAGE 333 394 331 Apple Snowballs Apple Meringue Apple and Wheat Pudding . . PAGE 335 333 331 Boned Birds , . . . Broiled Birds or Chops Blanc-Mange Laban . . Ash Cake . Panada 426 Potato or Vegetable Soups . 146-150 Bread and Rolls .... 65-70 Stewed Prunes 395 Prune Pudding 357 Crackers and Orange Marma- lade 427 Charlotte Russe 354 Lemon Sherbet 368 Orange Sherbet 368 Frozen Fruits 367 Orange Basket 351 Fifth Lesson. 27 426 341 427 427 Sixth Lesson. Boast Beef, or Roast Mutton, or Roast Chicken . . 220, 233, 257 Chicken Fricassee 258 Sweetbreads, or Venison Steak, or Salmon Steak . . 243, 263, 161 Macaroni 308 Broiled Breast of Chicken . . 260 Sponge Cake 374 MutSns 88 Graham Gems 95 Cream Cakes 389 Italian Cream, or Bavarian Cream 346, 356 Ice-Cream 363 EXPLANATION OF TERMS USED IN COOKERY. Agneau. Lamb. A la, au, aux. With ; as, huitres aux champignons, oysters with mush- rooms. Dressed in a certain style ; as, Smelts d la Tartare, with Tartare sauce. % A VAurore. A white sauce colored pink ^ with the spawn of lobster. A la bonne Femme. Of the good house- wife. V Estragon. With tarragon. A la Neige. In snow. A la Poulette. Meat or fish warmed in ^ a white sauce with yolks of eggs. A la Heine. Of the queen. Allemande. A thick white sauce made with cream and the yolks of eggs, and seasoned with nutmeg and lemon juice. Almond. A nut grown in Southern Eu- rope. It consists of a stone fruit, the fleshy pericarp of which dries in ripen- ing, and forms a hard tough covering to the stone. Bitter almonds are obtained from Morocco. They contain prussic acid, and are poisonous. The sweet almonds include the Jordan and Valen- cia varieties. The Jordan almonds, imported from Malaga, are long and narrow, and are considered the best. Angelica. A plant, the stems of which are preserved in syrup, and used for decorating pastry, etc. Anguilles. Eels. Apricot. A stone fruit cultivated in temperate and tropical climates. The skin has a highly perfumed flavor. Asperges. Asparagus. Aspic Jelly. A transparent jelly made with stock, and used for garnishing. Au Deurre roux. With browned butter. Au vert Pie. With sweet herbs. Aux Cressons. With watercresses. Aux Pognons. With kidneys. Bain Marie. A shallow open vessel filled with hot water, in which smaller dishes containing soups and sauces may be placed and kept warm without fur- ther cooking until serving-time. Barm. The scum from fermented malt liquors, used as yeast. Baron of Beef. The two sirloins not cut down the back. Formerly a favorite dish in England Baron of Lamb. The entire loin, not divided at the backbone, with the upper part of both legs. Basil. An herb having a perfume like that of cloves, used as seasoning. Bavaroise. Bavarian. Bay Leaves. The leaves of the cherry- laurel tree. Becasses. Woodcock. BSchamel. A white sauce made with stock and cream, named from a cele- brated cook. Beignet. A fritter. Beurre noir. Browned butter. Bisque. A shell-fish soup. Blanch. To parboil, to scald vegetables, nuts, etc., in order to remove their hulls or skins. Blanquette. Any white meat warmed in a white sauce thickened with eggs. Bouchies. Patties. Boevf. Beef. Bouillabasse. Several kinds of fish boiled quickly, and highly seasonc>d with onion, orange peel, safl^ron, oil, etc. Bouille. Broth made from beef. Bouilli. Beef stewed, generally in one large piece, and served with a sauce. Bouquet, or Fagot, of Herbs. A sprig of each of the herbs used in seasoning, rolled up in a spray of parsley and tied securely. 504 The Boston Cook Book, Braising. Stewing in a covered pan, with heat applied both below and above. Brawm. Head cheese. Bretonne. A pur6e of red onions. Brioche Paste. Cakes made with yeast. Broche. A spit. Brochette. A skewer. Brunoise. A brown soup or sauce. Bubble and Squeak. A dish of vegetable bash and meat. Buttock. A round of beef. Cafe au Lait. Coffee with hot milk. Cafi noir. Black coffee. Caille. Quail. Calipash. The glutinous meat of the upper shell of the turtle. Calipee. The glutinous meat of the under shell of the turtle. Canard. Duck. Canellons. Puff paste baked round a form of cardboard, shaped like a cane. Cannelon of Meat. Minced and highly seasoned meat, baked in the form of a large roll. Capers. Unopened buds of a low trail- ing shrub grown in Southern Europe. Pickled and used in sauces. Capon. A chicken castrated for the pur- pose of improving the quality of the flesh. Caramel. A syrup of burnt sugar, named after Count Caramel, who discovered what is called the seventh degree of cooking sugar. Cardoon. A vegetable resembling the artichoke. Casserole. A mould formed of rice or potato, and filled with a r^chaufftS. Champignons. Mushrooms. Charlotte. A preparation of cream or fruit, formed in a mould, lined with cake or fruit. Chartreuse. A preparation of game, fillets, etc., moulded in jelly and sur- rounded by vegetables. Invented by the monks of the mona.stery of Char- treuse as a convenient way of disguising meat. Chervil. The leaf of a European plant used as a salad. Chetney. A hot acid sauce made from apples, tomatoes, raisins, cayenne, gin- ger, garlic, shalots, salt, sugar, lemons, and vinegar. Chillies. Red peppers. Chine. A piece of the backbone of an animal, with the adjoining parts cut for cooking. Usually applied to pork. Chou-fleur. Cauliflower. Citric Acid. The acid of the citron family, lemons, oranges, etc. Citron. The rind of a fruit of the lemon species preserved in sugar. Cochineal. Coloring matter made from the dried bodies of insects found in Mexico, where they feed on a species of the cactus. Cock-a-leekie. A soup used in Wales, made from fowls and leeks. To Collar. To cure meat in a spiced brine. Collops. Meat cut in small pieces. Compote. Fruit stewed in syrup. Confitures, Preserves. Consomme. Very rich stock. Coriander. A plant cultivated for its tender leaves, which are used in soups and salads and in making curry powder. Comichons. Pickles. Cotelettes. Cutlets. Coulis. A rich brown gravy. Cr&me Brulee. Browned sugar or cara- mel with cream. Criole, A la. With tomatoes. Crinettes Shrimp. Crimp. To cause to contract, or render more crisp, as the flesh of a fish by gash- ing it, while living, with a knife. Croquettes. A preparation of mince with a bread-crumbed coating, and cooked till crisp. Croustade. A kind of patty of bread or prepared rice. Croflton. A sippet of fried or toasted bread. Crumpet. Raised muflins baked on a griddle. Cuen de Bemtf. Ox-tails. Currants. Dried currants are small black grapes, named from Corinth, where they are grown . Curtnes. Stews of meat or fish, seasoned with curry powder and served with rice. Curry Powder. A mixture of turmeric, coriander seed, pepper, ginger, carda- mons, cumin seed, caraway, and cay- enne. De, d' Of; as, filet de bceuf, fillet of beet The Boston Cook Book, 505 Desosser. To bone. Dinde. Turkey. En Coquille. Served in shells. En Papillote. In papers. Endive. A plant of the Composite family, used as a salad. Entries. Small made dishes served with the first course at an elaborate dinner. Entremets. Second-course side dishes, including vegetables, eggs, and sweets. Espagnole. A rich brown sauce, the foundation of most brown sauces. f Epinards. Spinach. iperlans. Smelts. Eaisan. Pheasant. Eanchonnettes and Florentines. Small pastries covered with a meringue. Farcie. A kind of force-meat or stuffing. Eausse Tortue. Mock Turtle. Eeuilletage. Puff paste. Fillets. Pieces of meat or fish, generally rolled and tied. Financiire. A rich brown sauce, with wine and mushroom catchuf^ Finnan Haddock. Haddock smoked and dried, named from Findhorn in Scotland, where they are obtained in perfection. Flatts, Darioles, and Mirlitons. French cheese cakes. Foie. Liver. Fondue. A preparation of melted cheese. Fowl d la Marengo. A fowl browned in oil, and stewed in rich stock, seasoned with wine. Eaten and approved by Napoleon after the battle of Marengo. Fraise. Strawberry. Fricandeau. Meat larded and browned, and stewed in stock, or baked and covered with glaze. Fricassee. A stew in which the meat is first fried slightly. Fromage. Cheese. Gdteau. A cake. Gavfres. Waffles. Gelee. Jelly. Genevese Sauce. A white sauce made with white stock, highly seasoned with herbs, spices, mushrooms, lemon, and wine, and served with salmon or trout. Glace. Covered with icing. Glaze. Stock boiled down to a thin paste. Gratins. Dishes of game, fish, or vege* tables, served in a rich sauce. Grilled. Broiled. Groseilles. Currants. Haggis. A preparation of the heart, tongue, and liver of sheep. Haricot. A small bean ; a bit. A stew in which the meat and vegetables are finely divided. Homard. Lobster. Hors-d'oeuvres. Relishes. Huitres. Oysters. Jambon. Ham. Jardiniire. A mixed preparation of vegetables stewed in their own sauce ; a garnish of various vegetables. Kippered. Dried or smoked. Kromeskies. Minces of meat or fish dipped in fritter hatter, and fried crisp. Laitue Lettuce. Lardoon. The piece of salt pork or bacon used in larding. Lentils. A variety of the bean tribe used in soups, etc. Lit. A layer. Articles in thin slice* placed in layers, with seasoning or sauce between. Macedoine. A mixture of fruit moulded in jelly. Madeline. A kind of pound cake. Maigre. Dishes for fast days, made with- out flesh. Maitre d' Hotel. Master of the hotel. Malic Acid. The acid of apples, partially changed to sugar as apples ripen and into a bitter principle as they decay. Manna Kroup. A flour made from wheat and rice, sometimes mixed with saffron and yolk of egg. Maraschino. A kind of brandy. Marinade. A pickle for boiling meat or fish in. Marinate. To pickle or to sprinkle with a French dressing. Matelote. A rich stew, made of fish, and flavored with wine. 5o6 The Boston Cook Book, Mayonnaise. Cold sauce, or salad dress* ing. Menu. A bill of fare. Meringue. A kind of icing made of white of egg and sugar well beaten. Mi-Car^me. Dishes used in mid-Lent. Mignonnette Pepper. Peppercorns ground coarsely. Miroton, Pieces of meat cut larger than collops, for a stew or ragout. Morel. A species of mushroom. Morue. Codfish. Mouton. Mutton. Nectarine. A variety of the peach, hav- ing a smooth skin. Nougat. A mixture of almonds and sugar. Nouilles. A kind of vermicelli. Noyau. A cordial. OEufs. Eggs. Ognon. Onions. Oxalic Acid. The acid in sorrel and rhubarb. Panais. Parsnips. Paner. To cover with bread crumbs. Panure. Any entree that is bread- crumbed. Pdte aux Choux. Cream-cake paste, so called because when baked it resembles a head of cabbage. Pdti de Foie gras. A pie of fat livers. Perdreux. Partridge. Persillade of Fish. With parsley. Petits Panis. Little bread. Petits Pois. Pease. Pigeonnaux. Squab. Pimento. Allspice or Jamaica pepper. Pistachio. A pale greenish nut re- sembling the almond. PoUee. Stock used instead of water for boiling poultry, sweetbreads, etc. Poisson. Fish. Pommes. Apples. Pommes de Terre. Potatoes. Pot-au-feu. The stock pot. Potage. A soup. Poulet. A chicken. Purke. A thick soup rubbed through a sieve. Quenelle. A delicate force-meat used in entries. Ragout. A highly seasoned stew flavored with wine. Ramakins. A preparation of cheese and puff paste or toast, baked or browned. Ratifias. Almond cakes. A kind of liquor flavored with nuts. Rechauffe. Anything warmed over. Removes, or Releves. The roasts or prin- cipal dishes. Ris de Veau. Sweetbread. Rissoles. Small shapes of puff paste filled with some mixture, and fried or baked. Or balls of minced meat, egged and crumbed, and fried till crisp. Rizotta. Rice. Rognons. Kidneys. Roux. Thickening made with butter and flour. Salmi. A stew or hash of game. Savoy Cakes, or Naples Biscuits. Lady Fingers. Sauce Piquante. An acid sauce. Saute. Fried in very little fat. Scones. Scotch cakes of meal or flour. Semona, or Semolina. Same as Manna Kroup. . Shalot. A variety of onion. Soubise Sauce. A puree of white onions named after Prince Soubise. Souffle. A very light pudding or omelet. The name means “puffed up.” Soy. A Japanese sauce prepared from the seeds of DoHchos Soja. It has an agreeable flavor and a clear brown color. Used to color soups and sauces. Stock. The essence extracted from meat. Sultanas White or yellow seedless grapes, grown in Corinth. Tamis. A sieve or fine strainer cloth. Tarragon. An herb, the leaves of which are used as seasoning and in flavoring vinegar. Tendrons de Veau. The gristles from the breast of veal stewed in stock, and served as an entr6e. Toad in the Hole. A dish of cold meat baked in a batter of milk, eggs, and flour. Tourte. A tart. Truffles. A species of fungi growing in clusters some inches below the soil, and having an agreeable perfume, which Is easily scented by pigs, who are fond of The Boston Cook Book. 507 them, and by dogs trained to find them. They are found abundantly in France, but are not subject to cultivation. Used in seasoning and garniture, Truite. Trout, Vanilla. The fruit of a Mexican plant. Pure vanilla beans are from seven to nine inches long, soft, oily, flexible, can easily be wound over the finger, and when cut have a frosted appearance. The seeds are so fine as to bo hardly dis- cernible, An ounce contains seven or eight beans, and costs $1.60, Veau. Veal, VeloutS. A smooth white sauce. Vin (Au). With wine. Vinaigrette Sauce. With acid wine ot vinegar. Vol-aUf^ent. A crust of very light puff paste, filled with oysters or chickens, warmed in a cream sauce, or filled with fruit. ADDENDA. Barbecue. To roast any animal whole, usually in the open air. Gumbo. A dish of food made of young capsules of okra, with salt and pepper, stewed and served with melted butter. Gumbo Filet Powder. Made from the tender young leaves of the_ sassafras, picked in the spring, and dried care- fully in the shade like any herb. Powdered fine and bottled tight. Used In New Orleans. Kohl Cannon. Boiled potatoes and cab- bage, minced together, and seasoned with butter, pepper, and salt. Okra. The green mucilaginous pods of an annual plant, used in the South fur soups and pickles. Pot-Pourri. A mixture of minced cooked meat and vegetables. A mixture of fruits and sugar. LIST OF UTENSILS NEEDED IN A COOKING-SCHOOL. EARTHEN, CHINA, AND GLASS WARE. 2 2-quart Pitchers. 2 quart Pitchers. 2 pint Pitchers. 2 large oval Baking-Dishes. 2 small oval Baking- Dishes. 2 large round Baking-Dishes. 2 small round Baking-Dishes. 1 8-quart Bowl. 2 6-quart Bowls. 4 4-quart Bowls. 2 2-quart Bowls. 4 quart Bowls. 4 pint Bowls. 4 half-pint Bowls. 6 half-pint Kitchen Cups. 12 Baking-Cups for Pop-Overs. 12 Custard Cups. 2 small oval Platters. 2 medium oval Platters. 2 large oval Platters. 4 shallow Pie-Plates. 4 deep Pie-Plates. 2 Blanc-Mange Moulds. 2 Stone Jugs. 2 2-gallon Stone Jars. 2 gallon Stone Jars. 1 deep Pudding-Pot. 1 Bean-Pot. 1 Teapot. Table Dishes as required. 1 Glass Rolling-Pin. 1 dozen quart Mason’s Jars. 1 dozen pint Mason’s Jars. WOODEN WARE. 1 Wash-Board. 1 large Bread-Board. 1 medium Bread-Board. 1 hard-wood Meat-Board. 1 Meat-Block. 1 large oval Chopping-Tray. 1 small round Chopping-Tray. 1 Potato-Masher. 1 Mortar and Pestle. 1 Potato-Slicer. 1 Water-Pail. 1 Scrubbing-Pail. 2 Pails for Refuse. 1 Knife-Box. 1 Cover for Flour-Barrel. 1 Coffee-Mill. 1 gallon Ice-Cream Freezer. 1 Wooden Mallet. 1 Ice-Pick. 2 Butter-Paddles. 2 Butter-Moulds. 2 plain Wooden Spoons. 2 perforated Wooden Spoons. 4 small Wooden Spoons. The Boston Cook Book. 509 4 Wooden Knives. 2 Brooms. 1 Whisk-Broom. 1 Crumb Pan and Brush. 2 small Pastry-Brushes. 2 small Scrubbing-Brushes. 1 Scrubbing-Brush for Floor. 1 Stove Blacking-Brush. 1 Stove Polishing-Brush. 2 Dust-Brushes. 1 long-handled Mop. 1 Knife-scouring Box. 1 Egg-Basket. AGATE 1 2-quart Double Boiler. 1 6-quart Covered Kettle. 1 4-quart Covered Kettle. 1 2-quart Covered Kettle. 1 2-quart Saucepan. 1 quart Saucepan. 2 pint Saucepans. 2 half-pint Saucepans. IRON Range with Hot Closet and Water Tank. * 1 double-lipped Spider. 1 Griddle. 1 Dish-Kettle. 1 Teakettle. 1 Dripping-Pan for Meat. 1 Dripping-Pan for Fish. 1 large French Fry-Pan. 1 small French Fry-Pan. 1 Scotch Bowl. 2 Gem-Pans. French-Roll Pan. 1 Soup Digester, or 1 2-gallon Iron Pot, tight Cover. 1 6-quart Enamelled Kettle. 1 Enamelled oval Kettle for Fish and Ham. 1 Waffle-Iron. Salamander. Scales. 3 Flat-Irons. Clock. 1 large Market Basket. 1 small Market Basket. 1 hard-wood Rolling-Pin. 2 Nests of Boxes. 2 Nests of Buckets. Spice-Boxes. 2 Dish-Mops. 1 Sink-Scraper. 2 Wash-Tubs. Meat-Squeezer. 1 Lemon-Squeezer. Refrigerator. WARE. 2 round 4-quart Pans. 2 round 3-quart Pans. 2 round 2-quart Pans. 2 oval Pans. 1 6-quart Preserving-Kettle. 1 3-quart Preserving-Kettle. 1 Hand-BasiUc Thermometer. 6 Kitchen Knives. 6 Kitchen Forks. 2 Vegetable-Knives. 1 Carving-Knife. 1 Bread-Knife. 1 Palette-Knife 1 Chopping-Knife. 1 French Vegetable-Knife. 1 Meat-Fork. 1 Pie-Fork. 1 Meat-Saw. Meat-Hammer. 1 Meat-Cleaver. 1 Can-Opener. 1 Boning-Knife. 2 large Wooden - handled Iron Spoons. 2 medium Wooden -handled Iron Spoons. 2 small Wooden -handled Iron Spoons. 6 Iron Tablespoons. 510 The Boston Cook Book. 6 common Teaspoons. 2 Ivory Saltspoons. 1 Set Steel Skewers. 1 Set Larding-Needles. Paste-Jagger. 1 Griddle-Spade. 1 Galvanized Iron Lemon-Squeezer. 1 Galvanized Iron Meat-Rack. TIN AND WIRE WARE. 1 large Grater, 1 Nutmeg-Grater. 1 Apple-Corer. ' 1 Pepper-Box. 1 Flour-Dredger. 1 Sugar-Dredger. 1 Salt-Dredger. 1 Spice-Box. 1 large-mouthed Tunnel. 1 small Tunnel. 1 large Tin Teakettle. 1 small Tin Teakettle. Ice-Cream Moulds. Ice-Cream Packing-Cans. 1 small Oil-Can. 1 Wire Broiler for Steak. 1 Wire Broiler for Fish. 1 fine Broiler for Toast. 1 Wire Soap-Dish. 1 Wire Potato-Masher. 1 Wire Spoon. ^ 1 Wire Egg-Whisk. 1 Wire Frying-Basket. 1 fine Wire Strainer. 1 large Dover Egg-Beater 1 small Dover Egg-Beater. 1 Flour-Sifter. 1 Extension Wire Strainer. 1 Pur^e Sieve. 1 Taper Soup-Strainer. 2 Gravy Strainers. 2 small Strainers. 2 double-handled Strainers. 1 8-inch Squash-Strainer. 1 4-inch Squash-Strainer. 1 Colander. 1 Wire Dish-Cloth. 2 large Dish-Pans. 2 medium Dish-Pans. 2 small Dish-Pans, for Flour. 2 4-qriart Milk-Pans. 2 2-quart Milk-Pans. 1 6-quart Covered-Pail. 1 4-quart Covered-Pail. 1 2-quart Covered-Pail. 1 Quart Measure. 6 half-pint Measure Cups, 3 Tin Scoops, three sizes. 1 4-quart Double Boiler. 1 2-quart Double Boiler. 1 quart Double Boiler. 1 Teakettle Boiler. 1 Steamer. 1 plain Pudding-Boiler. I (luted Rice Boiler. 1 Brown-Bread Mould. 1 large Melon Mould. 1 small Melon Mould. 2 quart fancy Moulds. 2 pint fancy Moulds. 2 2-quart plain oval Moulds. 2 3-pint plain oval Moulds. 2 quart plain oval Moulds. 2 pint plain oval Moulds. 2 half-pint plain oval Moulds. 1 4-6-quart Mould for Boned Turkey! 1 3-quart Mould for Boned Chicken. Meat-Pie Moulds. 6 small Charlotte Moulds. 6 Shell Scallop Tins. 1 dozen small Tins for Cakes. 6 Scallop Patty Tins. 6 small fancy Tins. 2 6-holed Muffin Pans. 1 dozen Muffin Rings. 1 Cake-Trunk. 1 Cracker-Trunk. 1 Whip-Clmrn. 1 2-quart Coffee-Pot. 1 quart Coffee-Pot. 1 Wash-Boiler. 2 Dust-Pans. 2 plain round Cutters, 2 sizes. 2 plain oval Cutters. 1 Doughnut-Cutter. 1 small Biscuit-Cutter. The Boston Cook Book, 511 1 large Fluted Cutter, 1 small Fluted Cutter. 6 Vegetable-Cutters. 6 Pastry-Cutters. 3 Frosting-Tubes. 1 Tube for £clairs. 1 Tube for Lady Fingers. 1 long-handled Skimmer. 1 short-handled Skimmer. 1 large short-handled Dipper. 1 small long-handled Dipper. 1 Lad ^ 4 Bread-Pans. 4 Jelly-Cake Tins. 4 deep Jelly-Cake Tins. 1 Angel-Cake Pan. 4 long shallow Pans for Rolls. 4 long Pans, 2 inches deep. 2 Sponge-Cake Pans. 2 long deep Pans for Fruit Cake. 2 Gingerbread Sheets. 1 Fish-Sheet. 4 plain Pie-Plates. 4 shallow Pie-Plates. 1 large Pan for Meat. 1 small Pan for Meat. 1 Can with Spout for Oil. 2 Cans with Spout for Molasses. 1 gallon Milk-Can. 1 2-quart Milk-Can. 1 quart Milk-Can. 1 pint Milk-Can. 1 Canister for Tea. 1 Canister for Coffee. Tin Covers for Bowls and Braising- Pans. Perforated Tins for Steamers. Clamp for Preserve Jars. MISCELLANEOUS. 1 dozen fine Dish-Towels. 1 dozen Hand-Towels. 6 coarse Towels. 6 Oven-Holders. 3 Floor-Cloths. 3 Sink-Cloths. 9 Dish-Cloths. 4 Lamp-Cloths. Soft Cotton Cloth for washing Meat and Fish. Cheese-Cloth. Strainer-Cloth. Pudding-Cloths. Fine Linen Strainers. Mosquito Netting for Spice-Bags. 1 Canvas Bag for Ice. Large Darning-Needles. Common Needles. Fine Twine. Coarse Thread. Sf'issors. Kitchen Lamp. Ironing Sheet and Holders. Gimlet. Screw-Driver. Corkscrew. Hammer. Tacks. Screws. Hooks. Nails. Brad-Awls. White Paper for Cake- Tins. Light soft Paper for Draining. Rubber Pastry-Bags. Coal-Hod. Coal-Shovel. Coal-Sieve. Ash-Hod. Two Work-Tables, covered with Mar- bled Cloth, and fitted with Drawers and Shelves underneath. Chairs, as required. Writing-Desk and Table combined. GENERAL INDEX. INTRODUCTION. PAGE PAGE Cookery . . 1 Broiling . 21 Time Tables for Cooking . • • 24 Larding 25 Making a Fire .... Daubing 25 Boiling Boning 26 Stewing . . 12 Measuring 28 Fricasseeing . . 12 Table of Weights and Measures 30 Braising . . 13 Table of Proportions . . • • 31 Baking . . 13 Rules for Mixed Spices and Frjdng '. . . . 14 Herbs 32 Fat for Frying .... Mixing 33 Sauteing Stirring and Beating . . • • 33 Clarifying Fat .... Cutting and Folding • . . • 34 Egg and Bread Crumbing . . 19 Table of Cost of Groceries . • • 35 Roasting BREAD AND BREAD MAKING. Importance of Bread .... Derivation of Word “Bread “ . Chemical Composition of Wheat Preparing Wheat Flour . . . St. Louis Flour Haxall Flour Minnesota Flour Health Food Flour Tests of Good Flour . . . Fermented Bread . . . . . Fermentation Yeast Plant Chemical Changes in Yeast Bread Unfermented Bread . . • . . 36 The Best Kinds of Yeast. 36 Dry and Compressed Yeast 37 Home-made Yeast . . . 39 Making the Dough , . • 39 Manner of Mixing . . , 40 Sugar and Potatoes in Bread 41 Shortening in Bread . . 42 Kneading the Dough • . 42 Temperature for Raising Breac 44 Time for Raising Bread . 45 Soda in Raised Bread . . 46 Shaping into Loaves . . 47 Temperature for Baking Bread . 48 The Care of Bread after Baking 33 49 49 50 51 52 53 53 54 56 56 57 68 60 61 tl 5 1 4 General Index. RECEIPTS FOR YEAST AND BREAD. PAGE PAGE Raw Potato Yeast 62 Whole-Wheat or Graham Bread 66 Boiled Potato Yeast 63 Squash Bread , 66 Hop Yeast ........ 63 Rye Bread 67 Water Bread 63 Raised Brown Bread . . . . 67 Milk Bread, No. 1 64 Thirded Bread 67 Milk Bread, No. 2 64 Sour Milk Brown Bread . . . 68 Water Bread with a Sponge . . 65 Sour Milk Brown Bread, No. 2 . 68 Milk Bread with a Sponge . . 65 RAISED BISCUIT, ROLLS, etc. Biscuit ......... 68 French Rolls ....... 71 Imperial Rolls 69 Sticks 71 Finger Rolls 70 White Mountain Rolls . . . . 72 Cleft Rolls 70 Swedish Rolls 72 Cross Rolls 70 Rusk, No. 1 73 Parker House Rolls 70 Rusk, No. 2 73 Twin Rolls 70 Rusk,No. 3 73 Pocketbook Rolls 70 Dried Rusks 74 Letter Rolls 70 Bunns 74 Braids 71 Hot Cross Bunns 74 Crescents 71 Raised Doughnuts 74 Vienna Rolls ....... 71 Raised Bread Cake 74 STALE BREAD, TOAST, etc. Dried Bread Crumbs .... 75 Brown Bread Brewis .... 77 Stale Bread Crumbs .... 75 Brown Bread Brewis, No. 2 . . 77 Stale Bread, Steamed . . . 76 Milk Toast 78 Egg Toast 76 Cream Toast 79 Bread Sauted 76 Water Toast 79 Italian Fritters 76 Toast for Garnishing .... 79 SODA BISCUIT, MUFFINS, GEMS, etc. Potash, Pearlash, Saleratus, Strawberr}’- Short Cake, No. 1 . 85 Soda 80 Strawberry Short Cake, No. 2 . 85 Cream of Tartar, Muriatic Peach or Apricot Short Cake . 85 Acid 81 Orange Short Cake .... 86 Baking-Powders 82 Whole-Wheat or Rye Short Soda Biscuit 83 Cakes 86 Baking-Powder Biscuit ... 83 Dutch Apple Cake 86 Sour Milk Biscuit 83 Apple or Huckleberry Cakes . 87 Whole-Wheat or Rye Biscuit . 84 Raised Muffins 87 Cream Biscuit 84 Sally Lunns 88 Short Cake, No. 1 84 1 Oatmeal Biscuit 88 Short Cake, No. 2 85 ' Tea Cakes 89 General Index, 515 Cream Muffins PAGE 89 Hoe Cake PAGE 93 Granulated Wheat Muffins . . 89 Rice Crusts , 94 Rye and Corn Muffins . . . 90 Rice or Hominy Drop Cakes . 94 Apple JohnnA’^ Cake .... 91 Breakfast Puff’s or Popovers . 94 Corn Cake (Thin) • . . . . 91 Rye Gems or Shells .... 94 Sponge Corn Cake 91 VVhole-Wheat or Graham Gems 95 Spider Corn Cake 92 Whoie- Wheat Crisps .... 95 Corn and Rice Muffins . . . 92 Fine Granuiated Wheat Gems . 95 Hominy and Corn Meal Cakes . 92 Maryland or Beaten Biscuit 96 Maryland Corn Cakes . . . 92 Graham Wafers 96 Dodgers, or Dabs, or Puffs . . 93 Wafer Biscuit 96 Indian Bannock 93 Gluten Wafers 97 WAFFLES AND GRIDDLE-CAKES. Distinction between Griddle- Corn Meal Griddle-Cakes • . 100 Cakes, Pancakes, etc. . . . 97 Graham Griddle-Cakes . . . 100 Waffle Iron 98 Huckleberry Griddle-Cakes 100 W affies 98 Rice or Hominy Griddle-Cakes 100 Lemon Syrup ...... 98 Bread Griddle-Cakes .... 100 Raised Waffles 99 Raised Graham Griddle-Cakes 101 Flannel Cakes 99 Buckwheat Griddle-Cakes . . 101 Graham Waffles 99 Corn Meal Slappers .... 101 Corn Meal Waffles .... 99 Pease Griddle-Cakes .... 101 To Cook Griddle-Cakes . . . 99 Squash Griddle-Cakes . . . 102 Griddle-Cakes 100 French Pancakes 1 ERS, AND DOUGHNUTS. 102 FRIED MUFFINS, FRITTJ Fried Drop Cakes ..... 102 Raised Doughnuts 105 Fried Flour Muffins .... 103 Crullers 105 Fried Corn Meal Cakes . . . 103 Wonders, or Cheats .... Henriettes 106 Fried Rye Muffins 104 106 Fried Rve Muffins, Sour Milk . 104 Cinci, or Rags 106 Doughnuts, Sour Milk . . . 104 Fritter Batter 106 Doughnuts, No. 2 .... . 104 Oyster and Clam Fritters . . 107 Doughnuts, No. 3 105 Apple and Vegetable Fritters . 107 OATMEAL AND OTHER GRAINS. Oatmeal 108 Oatmeal Mush 109 Groats 108 Hominy 110 Indian Corn 108 Cracked Wheat 110 Rve Meal 109 Granulated Wheat 110 Barley 109 Hasty Pudding 110 Buckwheat 109 Indian Meal Mush 110 Rice 109 Fried Hasty Pudding .... 110 5i6 General Index. BEVERAGES. PAGE PAGE Tea Ill To Serve Coffee 116 Iced Tea ... .... 111 After-Dinner or Black Coffee • 116 Russian Tea 111 Vienna Coffee 116 Coffee 111 Cafd au Lait 116 Roasting Coffee .»..., 111 Cocoa and Chocolate . . . • 116 Coffee (Common Coffee-Pot) 115 To Make Cocoa • 117 Steamed Coffee ...... 115 Prepared Cocoa 117 Coffee made with Cold Water . 115 Shells 117 Coffee made with Eggs . . . 115 Chocolate 118 Filtered Coffee 116 German Chocolate .... 118 SOUP AND STOCK. General Remarks on Soup . . 119 Tomato Soup with Stock . • 133 Meaning of Stock . ... 121 Carrot or Crdcy Soup . . . • 134 Essential Rules for Soup Making 122 Mixed Vegetable Soup . . • 134 Soup Digester 122 Caramel for Soup .... 134 Kind of Meat for Soup . . . 123 Glaze 135 Skimming Soup 125 Thickening for Soup . . . • 135 Seasoning for Soup .... 126 Materials served with Soup . • 136 Dark Stock 127 Croutons 136 Straining Stock 127 Crisped Crackers .... 136 Removing Fat from Stock . . 128 Egg Balls 136 Clearing Stock 129 Force-Meat Balls .... 137 Rule for Brown Stock . . . 130 Mock Turtle Soup .... 137 Bouillon 131 Oxtail Soup 139 Clear, Amber Soup, or Con- Mullagatawny Soup . . . • 139 sommd . . > 131 Scotch Broth 140 Left-over Soup 132 Mutton Broth 141 Julienne Soup 132 Chicken Broth 142 Macaroni Soup 133 Turkey Soup 142 Vermicelli Soup 133 White Soup Stock .... 143 White Soup, Veal .... 143 Tapioca Soup 133 White Soup, Chicken . . . • 144 Sago Soup 133 Potage a la Reine .... 144 Barley Soup 133 Potage a la Reine, No. 2 . . • 145 SOUP WITHOUT STOCK. Potato Soup 146 Lobster Soup, or Bisque of Lob- Celery Soup 147 ster 152 Tomato Soup ...... 147 Lobster Soup, No. 2 . • . • 153 Mock Bisque Soup ... 147 Oyster Soup • 153 Black Bean Soup 148 Oyster Stew 154 Split Pea Soup 149 Clam Soup • 154 Green Pea Soup 150 Fish Chowder 155 Green Corn Soup 150 Clam Chowder 156 Vegetable Soup (Winter) . . 151 Corn Chowder • 157 Fish Soup 152 Lobster Chowder .... 157 Pur^e of Salmon 152 Pur^e of Clams 158 General Index.. 517 FISH. PAGE General Remarks on Fish . . 159 . To Clean Fish 160 To Skin Fish 161 To Bone Fish 161 Fillets of Fish 161 Broiled Fish 161 Baked Fish 162 Stuffing for Fish 163 Oyster Stuffing 163 Baked Fish (served whole) . . 164 To Carve Baked Fish .... 164 Baked Fish, No. 2 164 Baked Halibut 165 Fried Fish 165 Boiled Fish 166 Fish au Court Bouillon . . . 167 Stewed Fish 168 Fish a la Creme 168 Remnants of Cooked Fish . . 169 Scalloped Fish 169 Fish in Potato Border . . . . 169 Chartreuse or Casserole of Fish Kedgeree Curried Fish Creamed Fish with Oysters . . Spiced Fish Crimped Fish Potted Fish Salt Fish Balls Fish Hash Fish Souffld To Cook Salt Fish Salt Mackerel Salt Fish Dinner . . . . , Creamed Salt Fish Mock Oyster Stew . ’ , . . . Scorched Salt Fish .... Tongues and Sounds . . . . Fried Fish Roes Scalloped Roes Small Fish Baked in Crusts Table of Cost of Fish .... PAGE 170 170 170 170 170 170 171 171 172 172 172 172 173 173 173 173 173 173 173 174 174 SHELL FISH. Shell Fish 175 Fried Scallops , , . 181 Oysters 175 Lobsters • 181 Oysters Cooked in the Shell 175 To Choose Lobsters • 181 Raw Ovsters 175 To Open Lobsters . . • 182 Oysters on Ice 176 Plain Lobster . . . 182 To Prepare Oysters for Cooking 176 Stewed Lobster . . . • 182 Oysters Cooked in their Liquor 176 Creamed Lobster . . • 183 Smothered Oysters .... 176 Curried Lobster . . . 183 Creamed Oysters 177 Scalloped Lobster . . • 183 Fricasseed Oysters 177 Devilled Lobster . . G> • 183 Scalloped Oysters 177 Crabs 183 Oysters en Coquille .... 177 Soft Shell Crabs . . • 184 Oysters and Mushrooms in Boiled Crabs .... 184 Crust 178 Scalloped Crabs . . • 184 Pigs in Blankets 178 Devilled Crabs . . . • 184 Fried Oysters 178 Crab Sal#d .... 184 Sauted Ovsters 179 Shrimps and Prawns . • 184 Broiled Oj'sters 179 Shrimp Salad . . . 184 Pickled Oysters 179 Shrimps en Coquille . 184 Clams 179 Scalloped Shrimps . . • 184 Steamed Clams 179 Reptiles 185 Scalloped Clams 180 Frogs ...... 185 A Clam Bake 180 Terrapin 188 Scallops ........ 181 Green Turtle Soup . . 186 5i8 General Index, MEAT AND FISH SAUCES. Meat and Fish Sauces . „ . • PAGE 187 Brown Mushroom Sauce . • PAGE 191 Drawn Butter 187 Currant Jelly Sauce . . • 191 Caper Sauce 188 Olive Sauce 192 Egg Sauce 188 Cumberland Sauce . . • 192 Parsley Sauce 188 Flemish Sauce .... 192 Lemon Sauce 188 Sauce a la Italienne . . • 192 Shrimp Sauce 188 Chestnut Sauce .... 192 Acid Sauce 188 Peanut Sauce .... • 193 Mustard Sauce • 188 Port Wine Sauce . . . • 193 Lobster Sauce • 188 Espagnole Sauce , . . • 193 Oj'ster Sauce ..... • 188 Bread Sauce 193 Celery Sauce 189 Soubise Sauce .... 193 Richer Drawn Butter Sauce . • 189 Tomato Sauce .... • 193 Sauce Piquante 189 Tomato Sauce for Chops. • 194 White Sauce . • 189 Hollandaise Sauce . . . • 194 Bechamel Sauce .... • 189 Tartar Sauce (Hot) . . • 194 Fish Sauce 190 Tartar Sauce 195 Curry Sauce 190 Horseradish Sauce (Hot) • 195 Cream Sauce 190 Horseradish Sauce (Cold) • 195 Thick Cream Sauce . . . • 190 Sauce Tartare .... 195 Brown Sauce 191 Maitre d’ Hotel Sauce . . • 195 Brown Sauce Piquante . , o 191 Maitre d’Hotel Sauce (Hot) . • 196 Sauce Poivrade ..... ■ 191 Sauce for Fish Balls . . • 196 Sauce Robert . . . . . » 191 Mint Sauce 196 Remarks on Eggs .... EG 197 GS. Baked Eggs, Nos. 3 and 4 • 204 Boiled Eggs (Soft) .... • 199 Eggs en Coquille . . . • 204 Boiled Eggs (Hard) . . . • 199 Eggs en Coquille, No. 2 . • 204 Dropped or Poached Eggs . • 199 Eggs and Minced Meat . 9 204 Ham and Eggs ..... • 200 Pannikins • 205 Spanish Eggs 200 Curried Eggs .... 205 Eggs Poached in Tomatoes . • 200 Egg Vermicelli .... • 206 Scrambled Eggs .... • 200 Stuffed Eggs • 206 Scrambled Eggs, No. 2 . . • 200 Stuffed Eggs, No. 2 . . • 207 Omelet. 200 Scotch Eggs • 207 Fancy Omelets 201 Scotch Eggs, No. 2 . . • 207 Creamy Omelet 202 Scalloped Eggs .... 207 Creamy Omelet, No. 2 . . • 202 Egg Balls in Baskets . . • 208 Sweet, or Jelly Omelet . *. • 202 Eggs a la Creme . . • 208 Orange Omelet 202 209 Omelet Souffle 203 Egg Salad 209 Baked Eggs, Nos. 1 and 2 . • 203 Devilled Eggs .... 209 Classification of Meat . • MEAT. 210 Composition of Meat . • 210 Albumen 210 General Index, 519 Gelatine PAGE Seasons for Meat .... PAGE Fat of Meat .... Diagram of Ox Juice of Flesh . . . Diagram of Hind Quarter . . 212 Osmazome .... Care of Meat ...... Extract of Meat . . Cost of Meat and Game . . . 213 BEEF. Tests for Good Beef . • • • 214 Beef Stew with Dumplings . . 225 Divisions of the Hind Quarter . 214 Dumplings 227 Divisions of the Fore Quarter = 218 Rolled Ffank of Beef .... 227 Roast Sirloin of Beef . • • 220 Smothered Beef or Pot Roast • 228 Rih Roast 221 Spiced Beef ....... 228 Back of the Rump . . 221 Corned Beef ....... 228 Yorkshire Pudding • 221 Boiled Dinner 229 Gravy for Roast Beef . • 221 Vegetable Hash 230 Fillet of Beef . . . 222 Tongue in Jelh' 230 Broiled Steak . . . • • 223 Smoked Tongue ..... 230 Broiled Fillets of Beef • • 223 Lyonnaise Tripe 230 Broiled Meat Cakes . • • 223 Broiled Tripe Hamburg Steak . . 224 Tripe in Batter 231 Braised Beef .... 224 Liver Beef a la Mode . . . 225 Kidneys i . . . 231 MUTTON AND LAMB. Mutton and Lamb .... . 232 Chops en Papillote .... Saddle of Mutton or Lamb . . 233 Fricassee of Mutton or Lamb . 237 Roasted Leg of Mutton . . . 233 Mutton Stew for Two . . . . 237 Boiled Leg of Mutton . . . . 234 Curry of Mutton .... Fore Quarter of Mutton . . . 234 Ragout of Mutton .... . 238 Mutton Duck Braised Sheep’s Tongues . 238 Braised Mutton Boiled Lambs’ Tongues . . . 238 Lamb or Mutton Chops . , Breaded Mutton Cutlets . . . 236 . 236 Pickled Lambs’ Tongues . 238 VEAL. Veal Sweetbreads .... • 243 Roast Veal Larded Sweetbreads . • • 243 Frioandeau of Veal . . . . 240 Fried Sweetbreads • • • 243 Veal Stew or Fricassee . . . 240 Creamed Sweetbreads • • 243 Veal Cutlets Broiled Sweetbreads . • • • 243 Braised Calf’s Liver . . . . 241 Scalloped Sweetbreads • • • 243 Braised Calf’s Heart . . r . 241 Sweetbreads with Mushrooms • 244 Calf’s Head Braised Sweetbreads . • • • 244 Brain Sauce Sweetbread Fritters . • • • 244 Minced Calf’s Head . . . . 242 To Serve Sweetbreads • • • 244 520 General Index, PORK. PAGE PAGE Pork 245 To Serve Cold Ham . • • • 247 Roast Pig • 245 Fried and Broiled Ham • • • 247 Roast Pork 246 Sausages 248 Pork Chops 246 Souse . 248 Breakfast Bacon .... 246 Head Cheese .... 248 Fried Salt Pork .... • 246 To Try out Lard . . • • • 249 Boiled Ham 247 Baked Pork and Beans • • • 249 POULTRY AND GAME. Poultry and Game .... 251 Broiled Chicken . . 260 To Choose and Clean Poultry • 252 Fried Chicken . . . 260 To Dress a Fowl for a Fricassee 253 Broiled Fillets of Chicken • • 260 To Dress a Fowl for Roasting • 253 Devilled Chicken . . • • • 260 To Stuff and Truss a Fowl . • 254 Roast Goose .... 261 To Clean Giblets .... 254 Roast Duck .... 261 To Dress Fowls for Broiling • 255 Braised Duck « . . 261 To Carve Poultry .... 255 Larded Grouse . . . 262 Gravy for Roast Poultry . . • 256 Potted Pigeons . . . 262 Roast Turkey 256 Braised Pigeons . . 262 Boiled or Steamed Poultry . • 257 Pigeons Stuffed with Parslev . 262 Roast Chicken 257 Roast Birds .... 263 Chestnut Stuffing and Sauce • 258 Quail 263 Braised Fowl 258 Woodcock .... 263 Chicken Fricassee .... 258 Venison ..... 263 Chicken Stew ..... 258 Rabbits 264 Chicken Curry ..... 259 ENTR^IES AND MEAT RtCHAUFFil Boned Turkey 265 Meat Porcupine . . . 272 Stuffing for Boned Turkey . • 265 Ragout of Cooked Meat • • 273 Boned Chicken 266 Hash 273 Stuffing for Boned Chicken . 266 Sandwiches .... • • • 273 To Mould in Aspic Jelly • 266 Scalloped Mutton . . 274 Pressed Chicken .... 267 Casserole of Rice and Meat • • 274 Blanquette of Chicken . , • 268 Casserole of Mock Sweetbreads 274 Chicken Pilau 268 Potato Border . . . 275 Scalloped Chicken .... 268 Veal Birds .... 275 Chicken Pie 268 Melton Veal . . • . • • • 275 Chicken Terrapin .... 269 Veal Loaf 276 Chicken Chartreuse . . . • 269 Meat Souffld .... - • • 276 Salmis of Game ..... 270 Potting 277 Beef Olives or Rolls . . . • 270 Potted Liver .... 2H Beef Roulette • 271 Ragout of Lamb’s or Calfs Fricadilloes ...... • 271 277 Frizzled Beef ..... 272 Croquettes .... 277 General Index. 521 Thick Cream Sauce . Chicken Croquettes . Veal Croquettes . . Ovster Croquettes . . Sweetbread Croquettes Lobster Croquettes PAGE 278 279 279 279 279 280 Potato Croquettes . . . Oyster Plant Croquettes. . Turkish Croquettes . . Sweet Rice Croquettes . Savory Rice Croquettes • Rice or Spaghetti Croquettes PAGE 280 280 281 281 281 281 Lobster Cutlets . . 280 Hominy Croquettes • • 282 Clara Croquettes . • • • 280 Creme Frete .... 282 SUNDRIES. Welsh Rarebit • • 282 Forefathers’ Dinner . • • • 284 Cheese Souffld . . 282 Hulled Corn .... 286 Crackers a la Crerae • • 283 Indian Meal Pudding . • • • 286 Cracker Brewis . . 283 Chickens Forced with Oysters • 286 Sardine Canapees . • • 283 Bean Porridge . . . 287 Turkish Pilaf . . 283 Smothered Chicken . • • • 288 Turkish Pilaf, No. 2. • 283 Steamed Apple and Indian Meal Sour Milk Cheese . 283 Pudding .... 288 VEGETABLES. Remarks on Vegetable Food • 289 Greens 297 Potatoes .... 292 Asparagus .... 297 Boiled Potatoes . . 293 Green Peas .... 298 Potatoes a la Neige • 293 String Beans .... 298 Rice Potatoes . . 293 Shelled Beans . . . 298 Mashed Potatoes . • 294 Sweet Corn .... 299 Potato Balls . . . 294 Green Corn Fritters . • • • 299 Potato Puff . . . 294 Succotash 299 Lyonnaise Potatoes • 294 Tomatoes, Stewed . . • • • 300 Creamed Potatoes . 294 Tomatoes, Scalloped and Stuffed 300 Fried Potatoes . . 295 Onions, Boiled . . . 301 French Potatoes • 295 Onions, Scalloped, Baked • • 301 Potatoes a la Maitre d’Hotel « 295 Cauliflower .... 301 Baked Potatoes . . 295 Cabbage 302 Franconia Potatoes • 295 Celery 302 Potatoes in the Half Shell, or Egg Plant .... 302 Potato Soufflb • 295 Egg Plant Fritters . . • • • 303 Stuffed Potatoes • 296 Jerusalem Artichokes . e • 303 Fried Raw Potatoes • 296 Globe Artichokes . . • • • 303 Saratoga Potatoes . • 296 Mushrooms .... 303 Parisienne Potatoes • 296 Winter Squash . . . 304 Macaroni Potatoes . 296 Summer Squash . . 304 Shoo Fly Potatoes . « 296 Carrots and Turnips . • • • 305 Crescent Potatoes . 296 Parsnips 305 Sweet Potatoes . . 296 Parsnip Fritters . . 305 A Southern Dish . 296 Salsify 306 Spinach .... 296 Beets 306 522 General Index, RICE AND MACARONI. PACE PAGE Rice 306 Rice with Cheese .... . 307 Boiled Rice .... 306 Macaroni and Vermicelli . . . 308 Steamed Rice . . . 307 Macaroni, No. 2 . . . . Savory Rice .... 307 Macaroni, No. 3 .... Salmon Rice .... 307 Spaghetti SALADS. Salads 309 Cucumber and Tomato Salad . 313 French Dressing . . 310 Potato Salad Boiled Dressing . . 310 Egg Salad Boiled Dressing for Cold Slaw . 311 Ovster Salad . 314 Mayonnaise Dressing . • • • 311 Fish Salad Mayonnaise Tartare Dressing , 312 Chicken Salad . 314 Lettuce Salad . . . 312 Lobster Salad Dressed Celery . . . 312 Salmon Salad Cucumber Salad . . 312 Salad Sandwiches .... . 315 PASTRY AND PIES. Puff Paste .... 316 Cream Paste Baking Puff Paste . . 319 Plain Paste Patties ..... 319 Lemon Pie Tarts 319 Chess Pie . 324 Cupid’s Wells . . . 320 Apple Pie . 325 Vol-au-vent .... 321 Rhubarb Pie . 325 Cakes a la Polonaise . 321 Squash Pie . 325 Bow-Knots .... 321 Custard Pie . 325 Rissoles 321 Berry Pie . 326 Plaits 322 Mince Pie . 326 Cheese Straws . . . • • • 322 Plain Mince Pie . 326 Pies 323 Eccles Pie . 326 Paste for One Pie . . • • • 323 Fanchonnettes . 327 PUDDING SAUCES.' Hard Sauce .... • • • 328 Foamy Sauce Snowdrift Sauce . . • • • 328 Caramel Sauce Lemon Sauce . • . 328 Molasses Sauce . 330 Whipped Cream Sauce • • • 328 Yellow Sauce Apricot Sauce . . . 329 Wine Sauce Creamy Sauce . . . • • • 329 Plain Pudding Sauce . . . • 330 HOT PUDDINGS. Cottage Pudding . . 331 Steamed Carrot Pudding . 332 Dutch Apple Cake . . • • • 331 Bread and Fruit Pudding . . 332 Scalloped Apple . . • • • 331 Eve’s Pudding . 333 Steamed Apple Pudding • • • 332 Bird’s-Nest Pudding . . . . 333 General Index, 523 Apple Tapioca Pudding . • • PAGE 333 Bread Pudding PAGE 337 Apple Meringue . . . • • 333 Plum Pudding (Plain) . . , 337 Apple Porcupine . . . • • 334 Queen of Puddings .... 338 Friar’s Omelet .... 334 French Bread Pudding . . . 338 Apricots a la Neige . . • • 335 Pl3'mouth Indian Meal Pudding 338 Apple Snow Balls . . . • • 335 Baked Indian Meal Pudding . 338 Plain Rice Pudding . . • • 335 Whole-Wheat Pudding . . . 338 Poor Man’s Pudding . . • • 335 Steamed Fruit Pudding . . . 339 Rice and Fruit Pudding . • • 336 Steamed Suet atid Fruit Pud- Rice Souffl(5 336 ding 339 Rice Custard .... 336 Cabinet Pudding 339 Custard Souffld .... 337 Christmas Plum Pudding . . 340 Sponge Pudding . . . • • 337 Thanksgiving Plum Pudding . 340 CUSTARDS, JELLIES, AND CREAMS. Irish Moss Blanc Mange . • • 341 Velvet Cream 349 Chocolate Pudding . . • • 341 Wine Jelly 349 Danish Pudding, or Fruit Tapi- Orange Jelly 350 oca 342 Lemon Jell}' 350 Fruit Pudding .... • 342 Italian Jelly 350 Boiled Custard . . . . • • 342 Orange Baskets 351 Flummery • • 343 Orange Sections 351 Tipsy Pudding .... • • 343 Imperial Cream 352 Floating Island .... • • 343 Whipped Cream . . . . . 352 Chocolate Custard . . . • 313 Cream Whips 353 Soft Caramel Custard . . • 343 Newport Whips 353 Cocoanut Custard . . . • • 343 Charlotte Russe 354 Macaroon Custard . . . • • 343 Plain Bavarian Cream . . . 355 Almond Custard . . « 343 Strawberry Charlotte .... 355 Candied Fruit Custard • 343 Banana Charlotte 355 Orange Custard . . . • • 344 Riz a la Imp^ratrice . . . . 356 Baked Custard .... • • 344 Bavarian Cream, No. 2 . . . 356 Steamed Custard . . . • • 344 Chocolate Bavarian Cream . . 356 Caramel Custard . . . • • 344 Coffee Bavarian Cream . . . 356 Delicate Pudding . . . • • 344 Bavarian Cream with Fruit . . 356 Apple Snow 345 Norfolk Cream 357 Tapioca Cream .... 345 Mock Cantaloupe 357 Gelatine Pudding . . . • « 345 Prune Pudding 357 Spanish and Italian Cream . . 346 Creme Diplomate 358 Quaking Custard . , . . 346 Royal Diplomatic Pudding . . 358 Snow Pudding . . . . 347 Gateau St. Honore .... 359 Orange Charlotte . . . • « 348 Gateau de Princess Louise . . 360 Apple Charlotte . . . • • 348 Chantilly Baskets 360 Fruit Charlotte . . . . • • 348 ICE-CREAM AND SHERBET. ro Freeze Ice-Cream .... 361 Neapolitan Ice-Cream ... 363 Philadelphia Ice-Cream ... 362 Ice-Cream, No. 3 363 524 General Index. Vanilla Ice-Cream .... PAGE 364 Ice-Cream with Condensed PAGE Lemon Ice-Cream .... • 364 Milk 365 Chocolate Ice-Cream . . . • 364 Tutti Frutti .... 365 Coffee Ice-Cream .... • 364 Nesselrode Pudding . 366 Caramel Ice-Cream . . . • 364 Frozen Pudding . . • 366 Pineapple Ice-Cream . . . • 364 Plombi^re .... 366 Strawberry Ice-Cream . . • 364 Bombd Glac4 . . . 367 Banana Ice-Cream .... • 364 Biscuit Glac4 . . . 367 Baked Apple Ice-Cream . . • 365 Frozen Apricots . . • 367 Pistachio Ice-Cream . . . 365 Frozen Fruit .... 367 Macaroon Ice-Cream . . . • 365 Sherbets . . . . . 367 Almond Ice-Cream . . . • 365 Orange Sherbet. , . 368 Walnut Ice-Cream . . . . 365 Pomegranate Sherbet . • 368 Cocoanut Ice-Cream . . . 365 Lemon Sherbet . , . • 368 Brown Bread Ice-Cream . . • 365 Pineapple Sherbet . . 368 Fruit Ice-Cream .... • 365 Strawberry Sherbet . 368 Cafe Parfait Raspberry Sherbet • 368 Glacd Cream 365 CAKE. Mixing and Baking Cake . • 369 Macdonald Cake , . • • • 379 Sponge Cake Mixtures . . • 372 Ciller Cake .... 379 Butter Cake Mixtures , . • 372 Dominos 379 Sponge Cake 373 Madelines .... 379 Lady Fingers 374 Gold and Silver Cake • • • 379 Sponge Drops 374 Watermelon Cake . . • • • 380 Miss Ward’s Sponge Cake . • 374 Marble Cake . . . 380 Angel Cake 374 Cornstarch Cake . . • • t 380 Sunshine Cake 375 Snow Cake .... • 380 Sponge Cake for Cream Pies • 375 Dream Cake .... 380 Berwick Sponge Cake . . • 375 Buttercup Cake . . • « 381 Cream for Cream Pies . . 375 Harlequin Cake . . • • • 381 Sponge Cake with Fruit . . • 375 Lemon Jell}' for Cake 9 • • 381 Sponge Cake for Children . • 375 Pink Coloring for Cake • • • 381 Roll Jelly Cake 376 Pokeberry Syrup . . • • • 382 One Egg Cake 376 Ribbon Cake . '. . 382 Park Street Cake .... • 376 Coffee Cake .... 382 Orange Cake 377 Spice Cake .... 382 Orange Cream for Cake . . • 377 Plum Cakes .... 383 Orange Cake, No. 2 . . . • 377 Pound Cake .... 383 Orange and Cocoanut Cream « 377 Wedding Cake . . . • 383 Mother’s Cake 378 Plain Frosting . . . 384 Currant Cake 378 Boiled Frosting . . . 384 Date Cake 378 Ornamental Frosting . • • • 384 Leopard Cake 378 Golden Frosting . . 384 White Mountain Cake . . • 378 Pink Frosting . . . 385 Nut Cake 378 Chocolate Frosting • • • 385 Cocoanut and Raisin Cream • 378 Orange Frosting • . • • • 385 General Index, 525 PAGE PACK Plain Cookies .... 385 Hot Water Gingerbread • • • 388 Richer Cookies .... 385 Sour Milk Gingerbread • • • 388 Cocoanut Cookies . . . • • 386 Ginger Snaps . . , 0 • • 388 Jumbles 386 Ginger Drops . . , 388 Hermits 386 Soft Molasses Cookies • • 389 New Year’s Cookies . . • • 386 Cream Cakes . . . 389 One-Two-Three-Four Cookies • 386 ^I^clairs 389 Thin Sugar Gingerbread . • • 386 Cream for Eclairs . . 389 Superior Gingerbread . . • • 387 Kisses, or Cream M(5ringues • 389 Hard Gingerbread . . . • • 387 Macaroons .... • • 390 Hard Gingerbread, No. 2 • • 387 Cocoanuts .... 390 Soft Gingerbread . . . 387 Chocolate Caramels . • • 390 Sugar Gingerbread . . « • 388 FRUIT. Fruit 391 Preserved Blackberries • • 400 To Serve Ripe Fruits . . • 392 Jams • 400 Iced Fruits 393 Grape Jam .... • f 400 Nuts and Raisins . . . • 393 Currant Jam .... • • 400 Tropical Snow .... 393 Raspberry Jam . . . • • 400 Stewed and Baked Fruits • 393 Blackberry Jam . . • • 400 Stewed Apple Sauce . . • 394 Apple Jam .... • • 400 Compote of Apples . . • 394 Peach Jam .... • 400 Baked Apples .... 394 Pear Jam • 400 Baked Quinces .... 394 Quince Jam .... • • 400 Baked Pears 394 Canning • • 401 Steamed Rhubarb . . . • 395 Canned Strawberries . • • 402 Prunes . - 395 Canned Plums . . . • • 402 Cranberries 395 Canned Cherries . . • • 402 Jellies 395 Canned Quinces . . • • 402 Currant Jelly .... 396 Canned Apples . . . « • 402 Apple Jelly • 397 Canned Peaches . . • • 402 Quince Jelly 397 Canned Pears . . . • 402 Grape Jelly 397 Canned Tomatoes , . • • 402 Marmalade 397 Sweet Pickles . . . • • 403 Preserved Peaches . . . • 398 Tomato Sweet Pickle . • • 403 Preserved Damsons . . • 398 Peach Sweet Pickle . • • 403 Preserved Quinces . . . • 399 Pear Sweet Pickle . . • • 403 Preserved Strawberry Toma- Melon Sweet Pickle . • • 403 toes 399 Pineapple Sweet Pickle • • 403 Preserved Pineapple . . • 399 Tomato Catchup . . • • 404 Preserved Strawberries • • 400 Piccalilli, or Chow Chow • • 404 Preserved Cherries . . • 400 Pickled Cucumbers • • 404 Preserved Currants . • • 400 Mixed Pickles • . . 405 Preserved Raspberries • • 400 526 General Index, HINTS ON CARING AND COOKING TOR INVALIDS. Ventilation PAGE 407 Jelly and Ice . . . PAGE 420 The Bed 407 Tamarind Water . . • • 420 Cleanliness 408 Baked Lemon . . . • • 420 Conversation 408 Lemonade .... 420 Conveniences in a Sick-Room • 409 Flaxseed Lemonade . • • 420 Feeding the Patient . . . • 409 Irish Moss Lemonade . * • 420 Visitors in a Sick-Room . . • 410 Wine Whey .... 420 Diet for the First Condition • 410 Herb Teas .... 420 Flour Gruel 411 Diet for another Condition • • 421 Milk Porridge 411 Beef Essence and Tea • • 422 Barley Gruel 412 Broiled Beef Essence . • • 423 Indian Meal Gruel .... • 412 Broiled Beef Tea . . t • 423 Oatmeal Gruel 412 Bottled Beef Essence . • • 423 Oatmeal Gruel, No. 2 . . • 413 Bottled Beef Tea . . • • 423 Farina Gruel 413 Stewed Beef Essence . • • 423 Cracker Gruel 413 Economical Beef Tea . • • 424 Egg Gruel 413 Dr. Mitchell’s Beef Tea • • 424 Panada 414 Raw Beef Sandwiches • • 424 Oatmeal Mush for Invalids . • 414 Eggnog 424 Indian Meal Mush .... • 415 Portable Beef Tea . . • • 425 Graham Mush ..... 415 Broiled Beef Pulp . . • • 425 Rye Mush 415 Egg Tea and Egg Coffee . • • 425 Gluten Mush 415 Egg and Beef Tea . . • • 425 Brain Food 415 Dishes for Convalescence • • 425 Rice Water or Jelly . . . • 415 Broiling for the Invalid • • 426 Tapioca Jelly 416 Broiled Steak or Venison • • 426 Irish Moss Jelly .... 416 Broiled Steak, No. 2 . • • 426 Restorative Jelly .... • 416 Chicken Panada . . • • 426 Mutton Broth ..... 416 Chicken Custard . . • • 426 Barley Soup 417 Crackers and Orange Marma- Calves’ Foot Jelly or Broth . • 417 lade 427 Chicken Jelly or Broth . . • 418 Racahout des Arabes . • • 427 Beef Jelly or Broth . . . • 418 Laban 427 Barle}' Water 418 Ash Cake 427 Gum Water 419 Gluten Gems. . . . 428 Toast Water 419 Diet for Infants . . . 428 Crust Coffee . , .... 419 Prepared Flour . . . 428 Corn Tea and Rice Coffee . • 419 Diet for Children . . Slippery-Elm Tea .... • 419 Milk for Children . . * • 430 Acid Fruit Drinks .... • 419 Diet for Invalids . . . 431-433 Apple Tea . . . . '. • 419 MISCELLANEOUS HINTS. To Chop Suet To Clean Currants To Stone Raisins 435 435 435 To Core Apples . • Egg Shells . . * To Boil a Pudding . 435 435 435 General Index, 527 PAGE Meringues 436 Moulds 436 Candied Fruits and Nuts . . 436 To Blanch Almonds .... 436 Corned Meat ...... 436 PAGE To Make Paper Boxes . . . 436 Pastry Bag 437 Vanilla Sugar 437 Canned Fruit Juices .... 438 THE DINING-ROOM. The Arrangement of the Table, etc . 439-443 The Care of Kitchen Utensils 443-448 AN OUTLINE OF STUDY FOR TEACHERS. Food : Its Uses, Classification, and Proportion 449 The Composition of the Human Body 453 Non-Combustible Compounds 454 Water and Salts 454 Combustible Compounds 456 Carbonaceous Foods 456 Starch 456 Sugar 458 Fats 459 Gum, Mucilage, etc 460 Nitrogenous Foods 460 Milk 463 Condiments 464 Proper Proportion of Food 466 Adaptation to Climate, etc 467 Nourishing and Stimulating Food 470 Digestion 471 Absorption 475 Nutrition 476 Life and Motion 478 Circulation of Water 478 Circulation of Carbon 479 Circulation of Nitrogen 479 Circulation of Mineral Matter 481 Suggestions to Teachers 483 A Course of Study for Normal Pupils . 485 Questions for Examination 486 Topics and Illustrations for Lectures on Cookery . . . 490 Books of Reference 494 Course of Instruction at the Boston Cooking-School . . 495 Explanation of Terms used in Cookery 503 List of Utensils needed in a Cooking-School 508 % i ALPHABETICAL INDEX. Acid, Muriatic, 81. Albumen, 461. Almonds, 393. “ To Blanch, 436 Apple Cake, 86 “ Charlotte, 348. “ Johnny Cake, 91. “ Meringue, 333. “ Porcupine, 334. “ Pudding, 333. “ Sandwich, 331. “ Sauce, Baked, 394. “ “ Stewed, 394. “ Scalloped, 331. “ Snow, 345. “ Snowballs, 334. “ Tapioca, 333. Apples, Baked, 394. “ Compote of, 394. “ To Core, 435. “ Ripe, To Serve, 391 Apricots, Frozen, 357. Ji la Neige, 335. Arrowroot, 457. Artichokes, 303. Ash Cake, 427. Asparagus, 297. Aspic Jelly, 266. Bacox, 246, 431. Baked Beans, 249. Baking, 13 Baking-Powder, 82. Bananas, 392. Bannock, 93. Barley, 109. “ Soup, 417. “ Water, 418. Bavarian Cream, 355, 356. Bean Porridge, 287. Beans, Baked. 249 “ Shelled, 298. “ String, 298. Beating, 33. Bechamel Sauce, 189. Beef, 214-220. “ Braised, 224. “ Broth, 418. “ Corned, 228, 436. “ Essence, 422-425. Beef, Flank, 227. “ B'rizzled, 272. “ Jelly, 418. “ la Mode, 224. “ Olives, 270. “ Pulp, 425. “ Roast, 220-222. “ Rolls, 270. “ Roulette, 271. “ Sandwiches, 424. “ Sausages, 271. “ Smoked, 272. “ Smothered, 227. “ Soup, 130, 131. “ Spiced, 228. “ Steak, 223. “ Stew, 225. “ Tea, 422-425. Beets, 306. Beverages, 111, 463. Birds, Roast, 263. “ in Potato Cases, 263. “ Veal or Mock, 275. Biscuit Glac6, 367. Biscuit, 68. “ Baking-Powder, 83. “ Beaten, 96. “ Cream, 84. “ Maryland, 96. “ Oatmeal, 88. “ Raised, “ Rye, 84. “ To Shape, 68. “ Soda, 83. “ Sour-Milk, 83. “ Wafer, 96. “ Whole-Wheat, 84. Bisque of Lobster, 152. Blanc-Mange, 341. Blanquette of Chicken, 268. Boiled Dinner, 229. Boiling, 10. Bombe Glac6, 367. Boning, 26. Bouillon, 131. Bow-Knots, 321. Brain Food, 415. Braising, 13. Bread, 36-79. “ Baking, 60. “ Brown, 67. 34 Bread, Brown. Sour-Milk, 68. “ Cake, 74, “ Chemical Changes in, 47. “ Crumbs, 75. “ Fermented, 44. “ Importance of, 36. “ Kneading, 54. “ Loaves, 58. “ Meaning of, 36. “ Milk, 64. “ Milk, with a Sponge, 65. “ Mixing, 52. “ Potatoes in, 53. “ Rye, 67. “ Sauce, 193. “ Sauted, 76. “ Shortening in, 53. “ Squash, 66. “ Stale, 75. “ Steamed, 76. “ Sugar in, 63. “ Temperature for, 56 “ Thirded, 67. “ Time for Raising, 56 “ Unfermented, 48. “ Water, 63. “ Water, with a Sponge, 65. “ Whole-Wheat, 66. “ Yeast, 49. Brewis, 77. Broiled Meat Cakes, 223. “ Steak, 223. Broiling, 21, 426. Broth, Chicken, 142. “ Mutton, 141. “ Scotch, 140. Buckwheat, 109. “ Cakes, 101, Bunns, 74. Butyric Acid, 459. Cabbage, 302. “ Salad, 311. Cafe Par fait, 866. Cake, 369-383. I “ Angel, 374. 530 Alphabetical Index. Cake, Baking, 370. “ Berwick Sponge, 375 “ Bread, 74. “ Buttercup, 381. “ Butter Mixtures, 372. “ for Children, 376. Cider 379. “ Coffee, 382. “ Coloring for, 381. “ Cornstarch, 380. ‘‘ for Cream Pies, 374. “ Currant, 378. “ Date, 378. “ Dream, 380. “ Feather, 376. “ Fruit, 376, 383. “ Gold, 379. “ Harlequin, 381. “ Jelly, 376, 381. “ “ Roll, 376. “ Lady Fingers, 374. “ Leopard, 378. “ Loaf, 74. “ Macdonald, 379. “ Marble, 380. “ Mother’s, 378. “ Nut, 378. “ One-Egg, 376 “ Orange, 377. “ “ Cream, 377. “ Park Street, 376. “ Plum, 383. “ Pound, 383. “ Raised Bread, 74. “ Ribbon, 382. “ Savoy, 374. “ Silver, 379. “ Snow, 380. “ Spice, 382. “ Sponge, 374. “ “ Drops, 374. “ “ Mixing, 372. “ “ for Children, 375. ** “ with Fruit, 375. “ Sunshine, 375. “ Walnut, 378. “ Watermelon, 380. “ Wedding, 383. “ White Mountain, 378. Cakes, Apple, 87. “ “ Johnny, 91. “ Buckwheat, 101. “ Corn, 91-93. “ Cream, 389. “ Dutch Apple, 86. “ Flannel, 99. “ Griddle, 99-102. “ Hoe, 93 “ Hominy, 92. “ Huckleberry, 87. “ ii la Polonaise, 321. “ Short, 84. “ Tah ftO Calf’s Head, 241. “ “ Minced, 242. " Heart, 241. “ Liver, Braised, 241. Calf 8 Liver, Ragout of, 277. Calves’-Foot Broth or Jelly, 418. Canapees, 283. Candied Fruit, 436. Canning Fruit, 401, 406. “ “ Juicet 438. Caper Sauce, 188. Capers, 289. Caramel, 134. “ Custard, 343, 344. Caramels, .390. Carving Beef, 220, 221. “ Fish, 164. Poultry, 255. Cassava, 457. Casserole of Fish, 170. “ of Mock Sweet- breads, 274. “ of Rice and Meat, 274. Cauliflower, 301. Celery, 302, 312. “ Sauce, 189 Cellulose, 460. Chantilly Basket, 360. Charlotte Apple, 348. “ Banana, 355. “ Fruit, 348. “ Orange, ^8. “ Russe, 354. “ Strawberry, 355. Chartreuse of Chicken, 269. “ of Fish, 170. Cheats, 106. Cheese Souffle, 282. “ Sour-Milk, 283. “ Straws, 322. Chestnut Sauce, 192. “ Stuffing, 258, Chicken, 251. “ Blanquette of, 268. “ To Bone, 27. “ Boned, 265. “ Broiled, 260. “ Broiled Fillets of, 260. “ Chartreuse, 269. “ Croquettes, 279. “ Curry, 259 “ Custard, 426. ‘‘ Devilled, 260. “ Forced with Oys- ters, 286. “ Fricassee, 258. “ Fried, 260. “ Panada, 426. “ Pie, 268. “ Pilau, 268. “ Pressed, 267. “ Roast, K7. “ Salad, 314. “ Scalloped, 268 “ Smothered, 288. “ Stew, 258. “ Stuffing for Boned, 266 “ Terrapin, 269. Chocolate, 116-118. Chocolate, Caramels, 390. Chow Chow, 404. Chowder, Clam, 156. “ Corn, 157. “ Fish, 155. “ Lobster, 157. Cine' 106. Clam Bake, 180. “ Chowder, L56. “ Croquettes, 280. “ Soup, 154. Clams, 179. “ Pur^e of, 158. “ Scalloped, 180. “ Steamed, 179. Coagulation, 461. Coat Fire, 3-5. Cochineal Coloring, 381. Cocoa, 118. Cocoanut Cakes, 390. “ Cream, 377, 378. Coflee, 112. “ Black, 116. “ Common Pot, 115. “ Crust, 419. “ Egg, 115. “ Filtered, 116. “ Rice, 419. “ Roasting, 113. “ Serving, 116. “ Steamed, 115. “ Vienna, 116. Composition of the Human Body, 453. Condiments, 464. Convalescence, Dishes for, 425. Cookery, 1, 2. Cookies, 385, 386. Cooking, Object in, 452. “ Time Tables for, 24. Corn, 108-110. “ and Beans, 299. “ Cakes, 90, 101. “ “ Maryland, 92. “ “ Spider, 92. “ “ Sponge, 91. “ “ Thin, 91. “ Chowder, 157. '• Hulled, 286. “ Meal, 109. “ “ Griddle-Cakes, 100. “ “ Mush, 109. “ “ Pufls, 93. “ “ Slappers, 101. “ “ Waffles, 90. “ Soup, 150. “ Sweet, 299. “ “ Fritters, 299. Cost of Fish, 174. “ of Food, 36. “ of Meat, 213. Crab Salad, 184. Crabs, 183. “ Boiled, 184. “ Devilled, 184. “ Scalloped, 184 “ Soft-Shell, 184. Alphabetical Index. 531 Orackers k la CrSme, 283. Crisped, 13t>. “ and Orauge Mar- malade, 427. Cranberries, 396. Cream, 463. “ Bavarian, 366. “ Cakes, 389. “ Cocoanut and Or- auge, 377. “ Cocoanut and Rai- sin, 378. “ for Cream Cakes, 389. “ for Cream Pies, 375. “ Glacd, S65. “ Imperial, 352. “ Italian, 346. “ Norfolk, 357. “ Sauce, 190. “ Sauce for Croquettes and Patties, 278. “ Spanish, 346. “ Tapioca, 345. “ Velvet, 349. “ Whipped, 352. “ IVldps, 363. Cream of Tartar, 81. Creme Diplomate, 358. “ Frete, 282. Crisps, 95. Croquettes, 277. “ Chicken, 279 “ Clam, 280. “ Fish, 280. “ Hominy, 282. “ Lobster, 280. “ Macaroni, 281. “ Oyster, 279. “ Oyster Plant, 280. “ Potato, 280. “ Rice, 281 “ Salsify, 280. “ Sauce for, 278. “ Shaping, 278. “ Sweetbread, 279 “ Turkish, 281. “ Veal, 279. Croutons, 136. Crullers, 105. Crumbs, Bread, 75. Cucumbers, 313. Cumberland Sauce, 192. Cupid’s Wells, 320. Currant Jelly, 396. “ “ Sauce, 191. Currants, 392. “ Dried, To Clean, 435. Curry Sauce, 190. Custards, 341. “ Almond, 343. “ Baked, 344. “ Boiled, 342. “ Candied Fruit, 343. “ Caramel, 344. Custards, Caramel, Soft, 343. “ Chocolate, 343. “ Cocoanut, 343. “ Macaroon, 343. “ Orauge, 343. “ Quaking, 346. Cutting and Folding, 34. Dabs, 93. Daubing, 25. Diet for the Bilious, 432. “ for Children, 429. “ for the Constipated, 433. “ for the Consumptive, 433. “ for the Corpulent, 432. “ for the Diabetic, 432. “ for the Dyspeptic, 432. “ for the Invalid, 410, 422, 431. “ for the Young, 429. Diets, National, 468. Digester, Soup, 122. Digestion, 471. Dining-Room, 439. Dinner-Table, 440. Dish-Washing, 442-448. Dodgers, 93. Dominoes, 379. Dough, 52-60 Doughnuts, 104. “ Raised, 74. “ Sour-Milk, 104. Drawn Butter, 187, 189. Dried Crumbs, 75. Drop Cakes, Fried, 102. “ “ Huckleberry, 87. Duck, Braised, 261. “ Mock, 234. “ Roast, 261. Dumplings, Apple, 382. “ for Stew, 227. Dutch Apple Cake, 86. Eclairs, 389. Egg Balls, 136. “ Baskets, 208. “ and Bread Crumbing, “ Salad, 209. “ Sauce, 188. “ Shells, 436. “ Toast, 76. “ Vermicelli, 206. Eggs, 197-209. “ Baked, 203, 204. “ Boiled, 199. “ en Coquille, 204. “ i la Crime, 208. “ Curried, 203. “ Devilled, 209. “ Dropped, 199. “ Ham and, 200. “ for Invalids, 431. “ and Minced Meat, 204. Eggs in a Nest, 209. “ Poached, 199. “ “ in Tomato, 200. “ Scalloped, 207. “ Scotch , 207. “ Scrambled, 200. “ Spanish, 200. “ Stuffed, 206. Eggnog, 424. Egg Plant, 302. “ “ Fritters, 303. Entries, 266. Espagnole Sauce, 193. Etiquette, 441. Fanchonnettes, 327. Farina, 413. Fat, To Clarify, 18. “ for Frying, 16. “ in Soup, 123. Fats, 459. Fermentation, 44, 461. Fillet of Beef, 222. “ of Fish, 161. Fire, 3, 5. Fish, 159-174. “ Baked, 162-166. “ ‘‘ in Crusts, 174. “ Balls, 171. “ Boiled, 166, 167. “ To Bone, 161. “ Broiled, 161. “ Casserole of, 170. “ Chartreuse of, 170. “ Chowder, 155. “ To Clean, 160. “ au Court Bouillon, 167. “ Creamed, 170. “ la Creme, 168. “ Crimped, 170. “ Curried, 170. “ Cost of, 174. “ Fillets of, 161. “ Fried, 165. “ Hash, 172. “ in Potato Border, 169. “ Potted. 171. “ Roes, Fried, 173. “ “ Scalloped, 173. “ Salad, 314. “ Salt, Creamed, 173 “ “ Dinner, 173. “ “ To Prepare, 1 72. “ “ Scorched, 173. “ Sauce for, 190. “ Sauces, 187-196. “ Scalloped, 169. “ Shell, 175-186. “ To Skin, 160. “ Souffll, 172. “ Spiced. 170. “ Stewed, 168. “ Stuffing for, 163. “ Warmed-over, 169. Flannel Cakes, 99. 532 Alphabetical Index. Flemish Sauce, 192. FloatiuK Island, 343. Flour, Haxall, 40. “ Health Food Co., 42. “ Minnesota, 41. “ Pastry, 40. “ Prepared, 428. “ St. Louis, 39. “ Tests of Good, 42. “ Thickening for Soups, etc., 135. Flummery, 343. Folding, Cutting and, 34. Food, 449-482. “ Adaptation of, 467. “ Albuminous, 461. “ Carbonaceous, 456 “ Classification of, 454. “ Liquid, 463. “ Nitrogenous, 460. “ Nourishing, 470. “ Stimulating, 470. “ Tables of Cost of, 35, 174, 213. “ Uses of, 450. Force-Meat Balls, 137. Forefather’s Dinner, 284. Fowl, Braised, 258. Freezing, 361. French Pancakes, 102. Friar’s Omelet. 334. Fricadilloes, 271 Fricasseeing, 12. Fritters, Apple, 107. “ Batter, 106. “ Clam, 107. “ Italian, 77. “ Oyster, 107. “ Vegetable, 107. Frizzled Beef, 272. Frosting, 384. Fruit, 391-406. “ Baked, 393. “ Candied, 436. “ Canned, 401. “ “ Juice of, 438. “ Drinks, 419. “ Frozen. 367. “ Iced, 393. “ Jams, 400. “ Preserved, 398. “ Ripe, 391. “ Serving of. 391. “ Stewed, 393 Frying, 14. Fuel, 4. G.\me, 261, 431. “ To Choose, 261. “ To Clean and Truss, 252. “ Salmis of, 270. Glteau do Princess Louise, 360. “ St. Honors, 359. Gelatine, 1‘23, 345, 462. Gems, Gluten. 428. “ Graham, 95 Gems, Rye, 94. “ Wheat, 95. Giblets, 264. Ginger, 465. Gingerbread, 386-389. Ginger Snaps, 388. Glaze, 135. Glucose, 458. Gluten, 38, 97. “ Mush, 415. Glycerine, 459. Goose, Roast, 261. Graham Flour, 42. “ Wafers, 96. “ Waflles, 99. Grapes, 392. Gravy, 221, 256. Greens, 297. Griddle-Cakes, 99-102. “ “ Bread, 100. “ “ To Cook, 99. “ “ Corn Meal, 100. “ “ Graham, 101. “ “ Huckleberry, 100. “ “ Pease, 101. “ “ Rice or Hom- iny, 100. “ “ Squash, 102. Groats, 108. Grouse, 262. Gruel, Arrowroot, 411. “ Barley, 412. “ Cornstarch, 411. “ Cracker, 413. “ Egg, 413. “ Farina, 413. “ Flour, 411. “. Indian Meal, 412. “ Oatmeal, 412. “ Rice Flour, 411. Gum, 460. “ Water, 419. H.4LTBCT, 165. Ham and Eggs, 200. “ Boiled, 247. “ Broiled. 247. “ Fried, ^7. “ To Serve Cold, 247. Hamburgh Steak, 224. Hash, 273. “ Vegetable, 230. Hasty Pudding, 110. Head Cheese, 248. Henriettes, 106. Herb Tea, 420. Herbs, Mixed, 32. Hermits, 386 Iloe Cake, 93. Ilollandaise Sauce, 194. Hominy, 110. “ Cukes, 92. “ Croquettes, 282. “ Drop-Cakes, 94. " Griddle-Cakes, lOO. Horseradish Sauce, 195. Huckleberry Cakes, 87, 100 Hultres au Lit, 178. Hulled Com, 286. Ice-Cream, 361-367. “ Almond, 365 “ Baked Apple, 366. “ Banana, 364. ‘‘ Brown Bread, 364. “ Caramel, 364. “ Chocolate, 364. “ Cocoanut, 366. “ Coffee, 364. “ Condensed Milk, 365. “ To Freeze, 361. “ Fruit, 365. “ Glace, 365. “ Lemon, 364. “ Macaroon, 365. “ To Mould, 362. “ Neapolitan, 363. “ Philadelphia 362. “ Pineapple, 364. “ Pistachio, 365 “ Strawberry, 364. “ Tutti Frutti, 365. “ Vanilla, 364. “ Walnut, 365. Indian Corn, 108, 110. Invalid, Cookery for the, 407. “ Diet for the, 410, 422, 431. Irish Moss, 291. “ “ Blanc-Mange, 341. “ “ Jelly, 416. “ “ Lemonade, 420. Isinglass, 462. Jams, 400. “ Apple, 400. “ Blackberry, 400. “ Currant, 400. “ Grape, 400. “ Peach, 400. “ Pear, 400. “ Quince, 400. “ Raspberry, 400. Jellies, Fruit, 395. *• “ Apple, 397. “ “ Currant, 396. “ “ Grape, 397. “ “ Quince, 397. “ Gelatine, 349. “ “ Italian, 350. “ “ Lemon, 35li. “ “ Orange. 350. “ “ Restorative, 416. « Wine, 849. Jelly, Calves’-Foot, 417. Alphabetical Index, 533 Jelly and Ice, 420. “ Irish Moss, 416. “ Rice, 415. " Tapioca, 416. Johnny Cake, Ol. Jumbles, 386. Kedgeree, 170. Kidneys, 23l Kisses, 3S9. Kitchen Utensils, 443. Kneading Dough, 54. L.vban, 427. Lactic Acid, 463, 471-475. “ Fermentation, 44. Lactose, 458. Lamb, 232. “ Boiled, 234. “ Chops, 236. “ Fricassee, 237. “ Loin of, 233. “ Roasted, 233. “ Saddle of, 233. Lamb’s Liver, Ragout of, 277. “ Tongues, 238. Lard, To Try out, 249. Larding, 25. Lemon, Baked, 420. “ Sauce for Fowl, 188 “ Sauce for Pudding, 328 “ Syrup, 98. Lemonade, 420. “ Flaxseed, 420. “ Irish Moss, 420 Lettuce, 312. Liver, 231. “ Calf s. Braised, 241. “ Potted, 277. “ Ragout of, 277. Lobster, Bisque of, 152. “ Chowder, 157. “ Creamed, 183. “ Croquettes, 280. “ Curried, 183. “ Cutlets, 280. “ Devilled, 183. “ Plain, 182. “ Salad, 315. “ Sauce, 188. “ Scalloped, 133. “ Soup, 152, 153. “ Stewed, 182. Lobsters, 181-183. “ To Choose, 181. “ To Open, 182. Macaroxi, 308. “ with Cheese, 309. “ with Tomato,309. Macaroons, 390. Macedoine of Fruits, 350. Mackerel, 172. Madelines, 379. Miitre d’Hbtel Butter, 195, 196. Maudioc, 457- Margarine, 459. Marmalade, 397. Maryland Biscuit, 96. Corn Cakes, 92. Measures, Table of Weights and, 30. Measuring, 28. Meat, 210-213. “ Corned, 436. “ Cost of, 213. “ Pie, 272. “ Porcupine, 272. “ Sauces, 187. “ Souffle, 276. Melons, 392. Meringues, 389, 435. Milk, 463. “ for Children, 430. Mint Sauce, 196. Miscellaneous Hints, 4S5 Mixed Herbs, 32. “ Spice Salt, 32. “ Spices, 32. Mi.xing, 33. Moulds, 436. Mucilage, 460. Muffins, 87-104. “ Corn, 90. “ “ and Rice, 92. “ Cream, 89. “ Flour, 87. “ Fried, 103. “ Granulated Wheat, 89. “ Rye, 90. Muriatic Acid, 81. Mush, Brain Food, 415. “ Corn Meal, 415. “ Gluten, 415. “ Graham, 415. “ Oatmeal, 415. “ Rye, 415. Mushes, 109, 415. Mushroom Sauce, 191. Mushrooms, 291, 303. Mustard, 465. “ Sauce, 188. Mutton, 232. “ Boiled. 234. “ Boned, 26. “ Braised, 236. “ Broth, 141. “ Broth for Invalid.s, 416. “ Curry of, 238. “ Cutlets, Breaded, 236. “ Duck, 235. “ Forequarter, 234. “ Fricassee, 237. “ Ragout of, 238. “ Roasted, 233. “ Saddle or Loin of, 233 “ Scalloped, 274. “ Stew for Two, 237. Nitrogen, 461. Norfolk Cream, 357. Nuts, 393. “ To Blanch, 436. “ Candied, 436. 0.\TME.4L, 108. “ Biscuit, 88. “ for Children, 414. “ Gruel, 413. “ Mush, 109. Oil, Olive, 309. Oils, 459. “ Fixed, 460. “ Volatile, 460. Oleine, 459. Olive Oil, 309. “ Sauce, 192. Olives, Beef, 270. Omelets, 2O0-2O3. a Cheese, 201. a Chicken, 201. t( Clam, 201. (( Corn, 201. (i Creamy, 202. <( Fancy, 201. u Ham, 201. u Jelly, 202. u Mushroom, 201. It Orange, 202. it Oyster, 201. It Parsley, 201. It Shrimp, 201. It Souffla, 203. tt Sweet, 202. tt Tomato, 201. It Veal, 201. Onion Sauce, 193. Onions, 301, 431. “ Baked, 301. “ Boiled, 301. “ Creamed, 301. “ Scalloped, 301. Orange Baskets, 351. “ Charlotte, 348. “ Jelly, 350. “ Sections, 352. Oranges, 392. Oyster Plant, 306. “ Sauce, 188. “ Soup, 153. “ Stew, 154. “ Stuffing, 163. Oysters, 175-179. “ Broiled, 179. “ en Coquille, 177. “ Creamed, 177. “ Croquettes, 279. “ Fricasseed, 177. “ Fried, 178. “ on Ice, 176. “ Mock, 299, “ with Mushrooms, 178. “ Parboiled, 176. “ Pickled, 179. 534 Alphabetical Index, u a (( u <4 4fc (4 44 Oysters, To Prepare for Cooking, 176. Raw, 175. Roasted, 175. Salad, 314. Sauted, 179. Scalloped, 177. Smothered, 176. Ozmazome, 123. Pan Broiling, 23. Panada, 414. “ Chicken, 426. Pancakes, French, 102. Pannikins, 205. Paper Boxes, 436. Parker House Rolls, 70. Parsley, 119. “ Sauce, 188. Parsnip Fritters, 305. Parsnips, 305. Paste Cream , 323. “ for one Pie, 323. “ for Patties, 319. “ Plain, 324. “ Puff, 316-319. “ for Tarts, 319. Pastry Bag, 437. “ Tubes, 437. Peaches, 392. Pickled, 403. Preserved, 398. Peanut Sauce, 193. Pearlash, 80. Pears, 394. “ Pickled, 403. Peas, Green, 298 Pur^e of, 149, 150. Pease Griddle-Cakes, 101. Pectose, 396, 460. Pepper, 431, 465. Piccallili, 404. Pickles, 403-405. Cucumber, 404. Mixed, 405. Mustard. 406. Sweet, 403. “ Cucumber, 403. “ “ Melon, 403. “ Peach, 403. Pear, 403. Pineapple, 403. “ “ Tomato, 403. “ “ Watermelon, • 403. Pie, Apple, 325. “ Berry, .326. “ Chess, 324. “ Chicken, 268. “ Custard, 325. “ Eccles, 326. “ Lemon, 324. “ Meat. 272. “ Mince, 326. “ “ Plain, 326. “ Paste for one, 323. < < <( (t C( i( (( u it Pie, To Roll Paste for, 322. “ Rhubarb, 325. “ Squash , 325. Pies, 322-326. Pig, Roast, 245. Pigeons, Braised, 262. “ To Choose, 252. “ Potted, 262. “ Stuffed with Pars- ley, 262. Pigs in Blankets, 178. Pilaf, Turkish, 283. Pilau, Chicken, 2^. Pineapples, 392. 399. Pistachio Ice-Cream, 365. Plaits, 322. Plombi^re, 366. Pokeberry Syrup, 382. Polonaise Cakes, 321. Pop-overs, 94. Porcupine of Meat, 272. Pork, 245-250. “ and Beans, 249. “ Chops, 246. “ Roast, 246. “ Salt, 246. Porridge, Bean, 287. “ Milk and Plum, 411. Port Wine Jelly, 416 “ “ Sauce, 1^. Pot Roast, 227. Potage k la Keine, 144, 145. Potash. 80. Potato Balls, 294. “ Border, 275. “ Croquettes, 280. “ Puff, 294, Salad, 313. “ Soup, 146. “ Yeast, 62. Potatoes, Baked, 295. “ Boiled, 298. “ in Bread, 53. “ Creamed, 294. “ Franconia, 295. “ French. 295. “ Fried, 295. “ “ Raw, 296. “ on Half Shell, 295. “ Lyonnaise, 2^. “ Macaroni, 296. “ k la Maitre d’Hotel, 295. “ Mashed, ^4. A la Neige, 293. Parisian ne, 296. Rice, 293. Saratoga. 296. Stuffed, 296. Sweet, 296. “ Baked, 296. Potting, 277. Poultry, 251-264. To Carve, 255. To Choose, 251. To Clean, 252. To Dre^s for Broil- ing, 256. << (( a <( it it tt ti ti a tt tt tt Poultry, To Dress for Fricas- see, 253. “ To Dress for Roast- ing, 253. Gravy for, 256. To Stuff and Truss, 254. Prawns, 184. Preserves, 398. Cherries, 400. Currants, 400. Damsons, 398. Peaches, 398. Pineapples, 399. Quinces, 399. Raspberries, 400. Strawberries, 400. Strawberry Tomatoes, 399. Proportions, Table of, 31. • Prunes, 396. Pudding, Apple Meringue, 333. “ Apple Porcupine, 334. “ Apple Snowballs, 335. “ Apple Tapioca, 333. “ Apricot, 335. Bird’s-Nest, 333. Boiled in a Cloth, 435 “ Bread,’337. “ Bread and Fruit. 332. “ Cabinet, 339. Carrot, 332. “ Chocolate, 341. “ Christmas. 340. “ Cottage, 331. Danish, 342. Delicate, 344. Dutch Apple, 331. Eve’s, 3^. French Bread, 338 “ Frozen, 366. Fruit, 342. Fruit, Steamed, 339. “ Fruit Tapioca, 342 “ Gelatine, 346. “ Indian Corn Meal, 286, 288, 338. “ Nesselrode, 366 “ Plain Plum, 337. “ Poor Man’s, 335. “ Prune, 357. “ Queen of, 338 “ Rice, 335. “ Rice and Fruit, 336. “ Roval Diplomatic, '358. “ Sauces, 328. “ Scalloped Apple, 831. (< i ( tt tt tt it Alphabetical Index, 535 Pudding, Snow, 347. “ Sponge, 337. “ Steamed Apple, 332. “ Suet and Fruit, 339. “ Thanksgiving Plum, 341. “ Tipsy, 343. “ Whole-Wheat, 338. “ Yorkshire, 221. Puddings, 331-360. Pur^e of Beans, 148. “ of Celery, 147. “ of Clams, 158. “ of Fish, 152. “ of Green Corn, 150. “ of Lobster, 152. “ of Peas, Green, 150. » “ “ Split, 149. “ of Potatoes, 146. of Salmon, 152. “ of Vegetables, 151. Putrefaction, 462. Qoail, 263. Quinces, 394, 397, 399. Rabbits, 264. Racahout des Arabes, 427. Ragout of Cooked Meat, 273. Raisins, 393. “ To Stone, 435. Raspberries, 392. Rechauffe, Meat, 265. Reptiles, 185. Rhubarb, 395. Rice, 109. “ Boiled, 306. “ with Cheese, 307. “ Croquettes, 281. “ Crusts, 94. “ Drop-Cakes, 94. “ Griddle-Cakes, 100. “ Jelly or Water, 415. “ Salmon, 307. “ Savory, 307. “ Steamed, 307. Rissoles, 321. Hiz i rimp^ratrice, 356. Roasting, 20. Rolls, 68. “ Braided, 71. “ Cleft, 70. “ Crescents, 71. “ Cross, 70. “ Finger, 70. “ French, 71. “ Imperial, 69. “ Letter, 70. “ Parker House, 70. “ Pocket-Book, 70. “ Swedish, 72. ‘‘ Twin, 70. “ Vienna, 71. “ White Mountain, 72. Rusks, 73. “ Dried, 74. Rye, 109. “ Bread, 67. “ Gems, 94. “ Meal, 109. “ Muffins, 90. “ , “ Fried, 104. “ Mush, 415. Sago, 457. Salads, 309-315. “ Celery, 312. “ Chicken, 314. “ Crab, 184. “ Cucumber, 312. “ Egg, 209, 314. “ Fish, 314 “ Lettuce, 312. “ Lobster, 315. “ Oyster, 314. “ Potato, 313. “ Salmon, 315. “ Sandwiches, 315. “ Shrimp, 184. “ Tomato, 313, Saleratus, 80. Sally Lunn, 87, 88. Salmis of Game, 270. Salmon, Puree of, 152. “ Salad, 315. Salsify, 280, 306. Salt, 455. “ Mixed, 32. Salts, Mineral, 455. Sandwiches, 273. “ Raw Beef, 424. “ Salad, 315. “ Sardine, 273. Sardine Canapees, 283. ‘‘ Sandwiches, 273. Sauces, Meat and Fish, 187- 196. “ Acid, 188. “ Bechamel, 189. “ Brain, 242. “ Bread, 193. “ Brown, 191. “ Caper, 188. “ Celery, 189. “ Chestnut, 192. “ Cream, 1^. “ Cumberland, 192. “ Currant Jelly, 191. “ Curry, 190. “ Drawn Butter, 187. “ Drawn Butter, Rich- er, 189. “ Egg, 188. “ Espagnole, 193. “ Fish, 190. “ for Fishballs, 196. “ Flemish, 192. “ Hollandaise, 194. “ Horseradish, 195. “ i la Italienne, 192. “ Lemon, 188. “ Lobster, 188. “ Maitre d’Hotel, 195, 196. “ Mint, 196. ■ Sauces, Mushroom, 191. ii Mustard, 188. Olive, 192. 4< Oyster, 188. Parsley, 188. Peanut, 193. Piquante, 189. ~ bell. “ The possession of your cook-book has made me quite beside myself. I prize it ughly, not only for personal reasons, but because of its real worth. I feel so safe with t as a guide, and if I abide by its rules and Jaws no harm can befall me.” — Adaline ifiller^ a former pupil, Atlanta, Georgia. “ One need only glance over the pages of Mrs Lincoln’s Cook-Book to realize the fact of her aptness in scholarship.” — Alta, San Francisco. “ Mrs. Lincoln brings not only the fruits of a long experience to the preparation of her work, but a great amount of scientific research, so that the book is really a mine of information in its way.” — The Post, Washington. “ It is one of the most interesting treatises on cooking and housework that we have ever read. It contains much useful information to the general reader, and is one we would recommend to every housekeeper.” — Saratoga Sentinel. Mrs. Lincoln’s Boston Cook-Book is kept on sale by all booksellers eyer^ where. If you cannot readily obtain it, enclose the amount, $2.00, directty to Mrs. D. A. Lincoln, Wollaston, Mass., or to the Publishers, who will mail it, postpaid. ROBERTS BROTHERS, Boston. SERVING. CARVING AND By Mrs. D. A. LINCOLN, AUTHOR OF “ THE BOSTON COOK BOOK.” Square i2mo. Illuminated board covers Price, 6o cents. • “Carving and Serving,” by Mrs. D. A. Lincoln, author of the “Boston Cook Book,” is a little manual by the aid of which any gentleman or lady can become an expert carver. What an advantage it must be to be able to place with the left hand a fork in the breast of a turkey, and, without once removing it, with the right hand to carve and dissect, or disjoint, the entire fowl ready to be helped to admiring guests ! This is done by skilful carvers. The book also contains directions for serving, with a list of utensils for carving and serving. “ The student of this attractive little book has no excuse for inefficiency and bun- gling, as the directions, both general and specific, are so clear that no room is left for uncertainty. The scope of the book broadens somewhat beyond its expressed range in giving a word of needful advice to the guest, who is conjured to bear in mind that he is invited to dine, not to take a lesson in carving ; adding that there ‘ seems to be an irresistible fascination about carving which silences all tongues, and draws all eyes to the head of the table.’ However, if the process is performed h la Mrs. Lincoln, scrutiny need not be feared. The directions in serving are no less timely and valuable, being founded upon a combination of experience and good taste that may safely be regarded as oracular.” — Cormno7Vwealth. “ ‘Carving and Serving,’ by Mrs. D. A. Lincoln, is a capital book for housekeepers. It gives minute and clear directions how to carve everything that goes on to the table in the way of beef, poultry, and game. It also gives instructions how to prepare all these edibles, and appetizing dishes like sweetbreads, chops, cutlets, meat pies, salads, soups, and many others. And, what is greatly essential, it gives detailed information how to serve the different edibles and drinks, to cut bread, and, last bu| not least, gives some very much-needed advice how to offer all these things at the table. . . . The book is full of such pretty suggestions, as well as solid information, and there is such a wide-spread interest to-day among educated women regarding cooking, serving, and managing dishes on the table, they will find this little book a valuable assistant in all such matters.” — Hartford Times. ■ ♦ Sold by all bookselle7's. by the publishers Mailed., post-paid., on receipt of price., ROBERTS BROTHERS, Boston. THE CRAWFORD GRAND. USED BY MRS. LINCOLN. • MADE BY Walker and Pratt Manfg. Co., Warerooms : 31 AND 35 UNION STREET, BOSTON, MASS. GEORGE H. MASON & CO., MANUFACTURERS OF Japanned, Planished, Stamped, and Plain Tin Wares. Dealers in House-Furnishing Hardware, White Mountain and Packer’s Ice-Cream Freezers. ALSO AGENTS FOR THE CELEBRATED PERFORATED PIE PLATES. ORDERED WORK A SPECIALTY. 150, 152, AND 154 Blackstone Street, Boston. The GARLAND OIL STOVE is one of the wonders of this progressive age. Its power and capacity for cooking and heating purposes is almost unlimited. With the No. 3 stove, shown in the cut, all the cooking of an ordinary farnily can be per- formed with ease The oven and two boilers can be used at the same time. Boiling, Baking, Broiling, and Heating Flatirons can be done satisfactorily, and without the heat, dust, smoke, and dirt of a coal fire. With the addition of a heating drum the Garland will warm a large room in winter. Thousands of families can speak in praise of the Garland Oil Stove. Send for Descriptive Circular. BATtSTOW RTOVB COMBATSTY, 66 Union Street, Boston. 330 Water Street, New York. Providence, R. 1. I at' I I 4 A * •y ■ i* . »<■ V, ‘ -'yi. ■> ■ I i 1 i I I r > j s RECORD OF TREATMENT, EXTRACTION, REPAIR, etc. Pressmark: Binding Ref No: Microfilm No: Date Particulars Chemical Treatment Fumigation Deacidification Sprc^ Lamination Solvents Leather Treatment Adhesives Remarks 1 1 1 1